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Comments
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
Thanks
Dan
For the fuel pump remove the back seat and then access the hatch on the passenger side of the car. The fuel pum assembly is located under there and lifts out. Fairly easy swap.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
"This bulletin is for informational purposes only.
If you encounter a customer complaint about an idle fluctuation (“hunting”) during cold starts which generally last about 20 to 30 seconds the cause is a combination of factors.
Some of these are:
• Fuel blends
• Percentage of Ethanol content of the fuel being used
• Temperature
• Narrow operating range of the Air Fuel Ratio Sensor
The main cause of this idle fluctuation is fuel related and not the vehicle.
PZEV engines are designed to run on fuel blended for distribution within certain areas of the U.S. (such as the state of California). Fuels available in other markets, that may have adopted
California emission standards, may be a slightly different blend. If you live in any other state than California, your vehicle will operate on gasoline meeting Federal specifications. However, PZEV vehicles may experience this issue especially during the summer months when summer blend fuels are distributed. There is no effect on vehicle emissions, and no short or long term damage will occur due to this issue.
The condition may be reduced or eliminated by changing to a fuel that contains a lesser percentage or no Ethanol. Also, a light throttle application while the vehicle is exhibiting this condition will stabilize the idle. As we move towards cooler weather many areas of the country will be changing to a winter blend of fuel which may also alleviate the condition.
If this condition is confirmed, no repair attempts should be performed beyond confirmation and checking all other systems are operating within design parameters."
Tom
I have had this problem for the past 6 months or so. It was intermittent and really annoying. Finally, a dealership in Ohio found the problem, allegedly known by Subaru. They called it a "shift linkage" problem and described it as: "...the computer returns a message as the car is in gear hence it doesn't start when the key is turned in the ignition". If needed I can get more details from the dealership.
Niki
Does it click once, or repeatedly?
You should check the connection of the negative battery lead, where it connects to a bracket that mounts on/near the starter. There are two points that need to be tight here, and if one of them is ever so slightly loose, it can cause the car to periodically not want to start (I would get a repeating click). If it is a single click, then likely the starter solenoid is bad. Try starting the car while someone taps lightly on the solenoid with a mallet or hammer. I know, it seems weird, but if the solenoid is hanging up while trying to engage the starter, it can result in the vehicle starting! If the tapping does help, replace the starter as soon as possible.
Any suggestions?
I would, however, start there.
The whine may be a pulley bearing, but I could not tell you on what. It could be an accessory or a timing belt pulley.
Ultimately, though, I ended up having the knock sensor go out. When that happened, I replaced the knock sensor and, on a whim, the crank and camshaft sensors at the same time. After that, I no longer had the cold start issues associated with the faulty knock sensor, but also had no more problems with the no-start situation. I have no idea whether doing this on yours would alleviate the problem for you or which sensor it was that may have actually been the root of the problem, but this was my experience.
Good luck - I know how frustrating it is, especially because it would not throw a code in the computer and therefore no shop was able/willing to diagnose it. I spent hundreds of dollars on shops trying to figure this one out before I finally gave up and decided to live with it. If I knew I was going to only be at a place for 30 minutes or less, I would usually leave the car running to avoid having to deal with it. Four years passed before the knock sensor issue finally came along and fixing it had the very happy side effect of eliminating the no-start problem.
Cold starts are ok. Warm starts sometimes don't start. So far I've done battery, alternator, distributor pack, and the ignitor.
I will try the knock, and crank position sensors next
-mike
I was having stall issues early in my ownership of it (September 2000) and same deal there - no codes, shops could not help. One of the shops suggested I try replacing the mass airflow sensor. I did (with a used one) and no more stall problems. Oddly, though, I knew someone last spring who had a '98 Impreza 2.5L with a bad MAS and the car would not run at all. I offered him my MAS, but with the disclaimer that the car could have intermittent stalling problems. He took it, and nearly insisted on paying for it (though I finally convinced him that we were doing each other favors by him just taking it ), and apparently it works fine for him.
I did recommend that he clean the sensor before installing it, but do not know whether he did so. I now wonder if that part was ever even bad.... ?
im starting to get irratated, i asked a few people, one said it might have 2 do with the security system and i have to reset it, one said something w the starter and the guy at the dealership in town said ummm idk just get it towed in and we will look at it
im a girl lol i need help :confuse:
So, from my experience, it is one of two things:
First, the easiest: The spot where the negative battery cable connects to the car is on the top, rear, driver side of the engine. It is a post that is mounted to the engine/starter by the bolt that secures the starter itself. Sometimes, this post can work itself ever so slightly loose, and, if this happens, the connection may not be good enough to allow the starter to draw enough power to crank the engine. The result? A click, or, sometimes, a click-click-click-click-click in series. Check that first - make sure the post is solid and the connections clean.
Second, the other culprit: The starter solenoid. Another easy fix, but slightly more complicated than the first, the solenoid is mounted on the inner (I think) side of the starter unit and is what engages the motor. If the solenoid is not working properly, it is going to just click once.
-mike
Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
i would appreciate if you could provide more information regarding:
I have had this problem for the past 6 months or so. It was intermittent and really annoying. Finally, a dealership in Ohio found the problem, allegedly known by Subaru. They called it a "shift linkage" problem and described it as: "...the computer returns a message as the car is in gear hence it doesn't start when the key is turned in the ignition". If needed I can get more details from the dealership.
I LOVE my car and have never had any trouble until this year. I had the head gaskets resurfaced a few months ago. Now I'm having starting trouble. When starting up the car the engine has been knocking. At first I thought I just held the key over too long, but it became repetitive. Today we driving and the car started to sound really boggy and after about a half hour it sputtered and died on the road. When I turn the key, there is the electrical noise, but the starter isn't doing anything. No vroom-vroom start. Just whirrrrr. We got a tow and tried to boost it at home, but no luck. Any ideas?
This generation Outback can be a bit touchy when it comes to the ground connection, as it connects to a bracket that is then held tight by one of the starter motor bolts. If either of those two "joints" has poor conductivity, it will prevent the starter from turning over.
Mine makes clicking sounds when in gear with clutch depressed but in neutral does not even click.
The reason for this is there being an interlock on the clutch, meaning you cannot start the car without the clutch being depressed. In that respect, the car is behaving "normally."
as I turn to the part that should crank the starter I get the continous clicking noise.
This is likely one of two things. First, your battery may be low. Check the voltage on it with a multimeter (can be had for $20-25, maybe cheaper); if it is at ~12.5 volts, you're good to go. Second, and perhaps more likely in your scenario, is that the resistance in the negative battery cable may be too high. Replacing that cable, which also should be very cheap, should do the trick.
m weather. When it started the other night,it had been sitting for about 5 days, the next day... Nothing.
It almost sounds to me like there is a relay that is shutting down the fuel system on it, which means the relay is either going bad or it is getting poor feedback from one of the connected sensors. That, too, could either be a sensor, or a poor wiring connection, but those things work on resistance. So, if it is within spec at the time the car is doing the system check, you're up and running until you shut it off. If not, you're not going anywhere.
When the problem happens, do you hear the fuel pump priming in the rear of the car? In other words, when you put the key in the ignition, turn it to "on" and wait a few seconds. What sounds do you hear?
Okay, that if you were not attempting to start, that was the fuel pump making that humming sound, so it's not the relay I was visualizing.
It sounds like an electrical/sensor issue. That's going to mean diagnostics. Simple things to check... are you getting any current out of the fuel injectors when it will not start? How about spark? If it isn't even trying to fire, one of those things has to be missing. After you determine that, the "why" becomes the fun part.
After about four years of that, I had a problem with the knock sensor. I replaced the knock, cam, and crank sensors simultaneously, and not only did that solve my immediate problem, but it had the happy coincidence of eliminating the no-start issue as well.
Good luck.... ! :sick:
There are just a few questions I would like to ask about your situation.
1) when your car would not start, did the check engine light come on after it did start?
2) If the response to 1 is yes, did you ever have the ODB reader check the engine code?
3) If the answer to 2 is yes, what code did it display?
4) When you had a problem with knock sensor, what made you change all three?
5) Is it possible that in changing all three sensors, you just managed to correct an intermittent connector connection and that had been the original problem?
6) Had you tried to disconnect all three connectors before and check the connectors?
7) The crank and cam sensor are easy to replace, but the knock sensor requires that the intake manifold be removed. A lot of components are disturbed in that process.
8)How much did all that work cost?
Thanks again for the help, and I hope your answers help me diagnose this irritating problem.
2. Once in a while it would come on, and I did have a reader to check it, but no code was there. It was the oddest thing; rather infuriating, actually.
4. The code in the system read knock sensor initially, then it showed both knock and camshaft trouble codes, then back to just knock, then another camshaft. So, I just decided to replace them all. I did the work myself, so it didn't cost anything but the time and the sensors. I don't recall taking the intake manifold off mine. I just removed stuff around it (such as the intake piping) and worked it out.
If you find you do need to take of the intake, it is extremely simple. Get a pair of intake gaskets and have a small putty knife on hand to clean the surfaces in case anything sticks, and it only adds 10 minutes or so to the work. You don't need to disconnect the throttle cable.
5. Possibly. I had pulled the engine from the car once previously, plus rather extensive work on the engine a couple times that included disconnecting those sensors, and the car never behaved differently prior to the fix, so I doubt it, but possible. Especially since the problem after that was gone afterward, never to recur.
6. No, I never did because I had no reason to suspect them and no idea where to start.
7. Anything disturbed is peripheral. Just label everything as you take it apart, and it will all go back together effortlessly.
8. Again, just the cost of the sensors and perhaps an hour of time start to finish.
It was terribly irritating, especially after we had our first baby and we would sometimes be waiting for 30-40 minutes in subzero temperatures to start the dang car. It would only happen shortly after shutting it off (such as on errands), so sometimes we would just leave the car running, especially if we were in a hurry. I would think if it was a connection problem then the issue would occur completely random or even during operation.
I read here xwesx's comment here, and ...
(My ODBII was hanging and got burnt on exhaust - on 1988 Vanagon conversion - so I couldn't read ODBII codes).
I tried the cheapest (Crankshaft Pos. Sensor, $25), and MY CAR STARTS EVERY TIME NOW AND IDLES SMOOTH!
(Perhaps I should replace the knock and camshaft sensors, too? I don't know, but...)
I had dealt with this issue for nearly 4 years, with this car being my daily driver, so this is HUGE! And I hope that it can help someone else with this problem.
Bryan B.
South Jordan, UT.
Have you tried to start it with a jump start from another car? does that start the car?
In fact, many times the starter wouldn't start the car, I would push "bump" the car (meaning popping the clutch, but it wouldn't start) - THEN use the starter, and it would start. Go figure.
Since I have put on the new crankshaft pos. sensor, I haven't had ANY problem starting, and no more dying when idling. I am convinced it fixed the problem. And what a RELIEF! I've been dealing with this for FOUR YEARS or so. Couldn't let my wife drive the car - now I can. So happy!
Bryan