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Comments
1. When I turn on A/C, the A/C selector light is on, some cold air comes out.
2. After 5-10 minutes, the air intake selector light automatically turns on, which indicates that it recirculates the air inside the car.
3. While A/C is on, I could not turn the air intake selector light off unless I turn the A/C off.
4. If I don't turn on the A/C, I can tune on/off air intake selector freely.
Has anyone any idea what is wrong? Is it an expensive repair?
Thanks,
Sean
As a SAFETY measure recirculate will NOT remain on unless the A/C is operational. In recirculate mode there is a danger that the cabin atmosphere RH, Relative Humidity, will rise high enough (due to human metabolism, breathing, perpiration, etc.) to fog the windshield.
With the A/C operational there is generally enough dehumidification capability that the safety concerns are alleviated.
Turning the Ignition to the ON position, I hear lots of noise coming from the passenger side of the console - as though there are stepping motors trying to reset to a "zero" position which they fail to find. Seems like it needs an input from a sensor ... to complete the loop - it may be related to the A/C system. Thx.
engine not running, i hear a (stepper?) motor eager to find its reset point never finding it,
mixing short stops with short run 'excursions" .
Today I noticed that the rear A/C panel's "auto mode" is stuck ON as indicated by its green LED ; i cannot "deselect" it. Could this be related to the above ?
Will someone tell me what is the state of the rear a/c panel lighs when the engine is tuned ON with no front A/C panel selection functions selected ?
I went to the dlr: serv advisor " you have no problem..."
Any ideas welcome. Thanks.
Thanks,
A picture shows it on one side of the condenser.
Possibly on the driver's side. A plastic cowling needs to be removed
to expose the condenser - I see plastic "buttons" holding it in
place.
Condenser is located in front of the radiator.
Pictures are accessible by membership at your
local Library - they are ok
at the dealership . No luck with first DLR, but 2nd one showed more interest in helping me.
I mentioned the rear A/C panel being locked in auto mode, but this is OK, and do not know how it is no longer in that state.
(mess156/157)
Cooling fans behind radiator should be running...(if not, no cooling)
There are two A/Clines on the passenger side of the engine compartment - the larger diameter one shoud be HOT to the touch, and the smaller diameter one should be Cold. This should happen within the first minute or so of A/C operation. If this is not happening, get a tech who is interested in helping you, and by the way - some A/C gauges are such that they fail to push the Schrader valve center pin , and no "action" is registered by the gauges. Adapters may be needed. Not sure if this the case in your Car, but it is in my other vehicle. The A/C comp clutch is "picking" that indicates to me that the system has refrigerant but may be in need of some, but get another HI/LO gauges reading before adding.
I have an 04 sienna that when the HEAT is turned on it blows cold air(AC?) on the right side vents , and hot on the left side.
Bizarre, just started this out of nowhere?
As soon as car stops at traffic light or it is in park position heat or Ac does not work. while in park position cooling fan runs rapidly and makes noise.
I added coolant in radiator. Heat indicator in Auto meter panel after car runs few miles remains on slightly higher then middle position.
When the A/C seemed to stop working we have found if you raise the temperature in the front to max heat and then adjust it back down to cool it seems to get stuck on heating. Conversely if you go to max cool you can usually get it to switch to cool even when raising back to 74 degrees.
There is a ticking noise directly behind the center vents (where I assume the mixer box is) that will stop if you go to max heat or cold but seems to continue if you leave it at around 74 degrees.
Any help with additional trouble shooting steps would be appreciated.
Edit: Sorry - got side tracked and didn't finish the thought.... So, you'll need to work up from under the dash to locate the solenoid, and replace it. But as important, check out the mix door movement to ensure it moves easily. Binding or lack of lubrication will only kill another motor assembly.
we had trouble getting heat to driver's side unless set to
"max heat". seems intermittent at best.
due for first service, do I have legit complaint? thread seems to
point to repeating problem
smyleguy
Coolant levels are fine and no leaks have been found
But when my wife got home yesterday, while the car was warm I noticed the left side (drivers side) cooling fan on the radiator was not turning, but when I turned on the AC it would still not come on, BUT as soon as I turned the fan speed switch to off the fan would come on for a brief second and then turn off not to come back on. Any ideas?
The dash gauge on most cars is really dumbed down, and the needle will hang in about the same spot when the engine is from around 170-215' F. You need to be plugged into the OBD port to really see what the coolant temp is. So likely the temps are climbing, but you don't get a real indication that things are going bad until just before the coolant boils at 235' F.
The interior fan speed switch also interfaces with the AC Amp, so perhaps it's pointing to that module as well. It's going to take some professional diagnostics to figure this out. The blower motor speed control also relies on a blower resistor module that is located within the interior air stream to keep it cool. I once had an overheating engine that blew such hot air into the interior that it cooked this module and melted the solder on the individual resistors! The result is a single high speed, and the open ckts at the other spots will be off - exactly as you described. So perhaps the events are connected. After addressing the overheating, I (being cheap) simply resoldered the resistors back in place and the module lasted the life of the car.