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This morning the truck was totally flat to the ground and would not pump up. Does anyone have any ideas? :sick:
I changed my compressor and all three arms plus one sensor (on the offending wheel) and the problem seem to go away. Four months latter I began experiencing similar symptoms and this time changed the remaining two sensors and everything seems to be fine. Just that I have to put the vehicle into drive before it will rise up and if it is very cold it seem slow in coming up, other than that it is fine.
I had exactely the same problem at my Lincoln navigator 2004. It felt completely down. At mine it was the hm difficult to transelate to english but I will try. In the system who raise and low the car its a compressor, this one as I understood should have been to service every 4 year , something I didnt knew. So inside there its a shaft or what its called who was broken in mine. So ask your garage to check your air suspension compressor.
I found out that to have a Lincoln is very difficult since to contact Ford and ask for help is impossible. They dont give any service at al. I explained that I live in Sweden and that very few here can with the system for American new cars . But no help to get. So this forum is very good to have.
I hope this was to help for you.
1) Locate Suspension Relay (behind passenger headlight - next to the horn - small amp looking like box - access from the ground - with a 4 post plug going into it).
2) Pull the 4-post plug
3) The manual says to connect a bypass wire "10 guage with 50A fuse" (I used about a 4" long - 14 guage wire - no fuse) from post A to post B (the left two posts when looking at the plug and the tab is on top)
4) If the relay is the problem you will immediately hear the compressor start to air-up your shocks - just don't leave the wire there for more than 30-40 seconds as it will get hot and you risk burning out your compressor.
5) Once your shocks are aired up and the back end is not longer a low rider then you should be able to drive around for a few days before leaks in the system let the air out - enough time to get to the dealer and get a new air compressor relay.
If this does not solve the problem then you likely have a bad air compressor.
and the suspension message stayed on then they clipped the green wire with
the yellow stripe the light still did not go out. i had a great idea to disconnect the
battery and then reconnect we did so and the message dissapered. now when i
first start the truck the power sterring is hard to turn until i get moving then it works
fine my question is did they cut the wrong wires or did we need to cut any at all.
( i had an allignment to if that matters )
Spend $750 shipped once or your repeated repair costs time after time.
I also have the dealer's Air Suspension Service Manual in PDF if you request it. My email is williamacosta26@gmail.com
Good Luck,
PS, the ride is perfect and instalation is fairly straight forward. I am not a paid promoter so go with the company you want. But I am beyond happy, and trust my suspension once again.
I am also selling a complete fully working air suspension I replaced with coils. :shades:
Does anyone have info on a possible recall for any parts to this system, since it seems to be quite a common problem? It would really relieve the huge headache from this dilemma if the manufacturer or dealership was responsible? If anyone has a keen insight, please let me know ASAP! My son is really tired of bouncing up and down in the back seat! Thanks.
I just had a conversion done to my 03 Nav but haven't been able to get the suspension light to go out without losing the variable power steering. Strutmasters instructions want the violet wire #26 cut and if it fails to remove the light they say to cut the dark green wire w/ yellow stripe #25. Suncore's instructions say to cut only #25. Originally wire #26 was cut and the light stayed on, then #25 was cut still not change until the battery was disconnected. Unfortunately after wards #26 had to be re-connected because the power steering assist was lost without #26 attached. If anyone has successfully achieved this please share how you did it.
The power steering always worked but with #26 cut you had to start driving a 10-20 feet before it would kick in and work. I didn't want to damage the rack or pump so I chose to reattach the wire.
My navi now looks like an suv not a lowrider.
It rides great ,smooth and stable Im more than happy with the results It took me and a helper 2 days to install the systen in only because I had to replace
a damaged tie rod (my fualt ) too eager to fix my ride . $830 . shippped to california
from suncore industries in florida . why waste your good $ on an a poor design
you will not be sorry feel free to email me with any questions oscspop@att.net
Please help
Anyway, we went online to Alldata, and tested the compressor by way of bypassing the Relay (in front engine compartment by headlight). When the compressor engaged, we went and bought a new relay. Even with the new relay, the compressor still won't come on. We can jump/bypass the relay and it starts but only briefly. We did the drive test (15 mph in drive or 20mph in 4wd) and the compressor never kicked on.
So where do we go from here? I can't see replacing the compressor knowing it can be started via the bypass wire but with a new relay installed what else could it possibly be.
Your local firefighter needs some help please?
I finally decided to install a coil over conversion kit front and back. It's been 2 weeks and I have had no problems. The ride is not that much different than with air. You might get a bit more side to side motion but nothing really noticable.
For all those with continuous air ride problems this might be a solution. No more paying hundreds of dollars for my winter air ride headaches for me.
Any assistance will be eternally greatful.
Also, I've only had a problem with my rear suspension; should I convert to coils in the front also?
Then as MattyMo suggests, look at the plug, and orient the tab so it's facing "up." Having prepared a few inches of copper wire, jam one end into the left most tab of the connector, and the other end into the next tab on the connector - the left two tabs on the connectors.
In my case, I could hear the compressor immediately. So I figured the problem must be the RELAY. So I plugged the connector back in, and decided just to double check by starting up, and with the break on, shifting into Drive. Viola! The compressor kicked in, and pumped up the rear end.
I think others have commented that unplugging then replugging the relay can work ... by making a clean connection with the relay tabs ... in my case (after dozens of other things going wrong) it definitely worked this time! It's so easy to check, I keep the jumper wire in my glovebox. Props again to MattyMo for the original post.
2000 Lincoln Navi air pump stay on until check suspension light come on. (Note: In about one hour of driving). No leaks in airbags. Can turn off air pump and veh will stay up for days. Veh was fine until I had a radiator put in.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
:confuse:
The following procedure should work to have the dash board light go out.
Pull the fuse to compressor, leave solenoids and ride height sensors plugged in.
In order to turn off the suspension light you must access the Suspension Control Module and cut the DARK GREEN WIRE with the LIGHT GREEN STRIPE.
The suspension control module is located behind the radio, which is accessed by carefully removing the hatch cover on the top of the dash board.
Thanks for your help.
ANY help will be appreciated. Thank you!
The problem is drops all the down after it has been parked for about 30 minutes. I have to sit with my foot on the brake and put it drive and wait 1-2 minutes before it reinflates and I can drive away. :mad:
So, What has been your experience with the conversion? Are you happy with it. Does it ride alot harder than the air? Any other side effect? Does it ride the same height as the Air? Do you have any suspension problem indicator messages?
Thanks
Overall, I am happy with the conversion. Now I do not worry about forking over all that money everytime a component of the air system goes bad.
It cost me $375 to switch them out and $65 to have it realligned to be safe.
Now, I dont have a low rider and I don't have to wait a minute before I can drive away. Also, I can go up north to cold country without worry about the suspension bottoming out and tearing up my tires on my 22" rims.
If you want to save yourself frustration there really is little or no downside to switching to coils. I am a Ford guy so I hope Lincoln fixes the design on this flawed system on their future navigators.