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Comments
However, judging by corrosion in there, it is a highly probable cause for the source of the problem.
I will try again with a used if possible fuse module or new if needed. I will keep you posted.
Cheers,
Guess where all those wires go, right there and he/she decided to strip a wire completely and tried on 3 other ones too, but I believe he/she got a small shock because it's only small bites in those ones.
So tomorrow, I will be re-wiring that section and hope that it did not short a resistor somewhere else.
Flip the circuit board over, and observe the connector where the two rows of pins are soldered. Get out your soldering iron, flux each pin, and reflow the solder. If you are smart, you will get a magnifying glass out before you re-solder, and upon inspection you should see a circular hairline correct around one or more pins... there is your intermittent.
Do this and I guarantee the problem solved.
Do you have this or did you fix it... and how did you?
thanks!
Thank you so much for replying, this is driving me crazy!
Nancy
http://www.2carpros.com/forum/2003-dodge-caravan--speedometer-needle-vt177718.ht- ml
After reading everything, I have decided to name my 2001 Caravan ... HAL.
HAL: "Look Dave, I can see you're really upset about this. I honestly think you ought to sit down calmly, take a stress pill, and think things over. "
Are there other interfaces needed? Can I just plug the new panel in?
Thanks for any help.
I have spent some time in all the stuff under the steering wheel and fuses & such. But I done know what looks correct/ so, even If I saw the problem I wouldnt know it.
Just currious if you ever got the issue resolved?
Are there other interfaces needed? Can I just plug the new panel in? "
UPDATE:
Yes, I researched this and was sure it would work, Bought a used one at the junk yard and installed it.
I now have a TACHOMETER, VOLT METER, OIL PRESSURE gages in addition to the original gages.
Works perfect. I did reinstall my original odometer to keep the van milage correct.
I also read on another site the ground for the bcm for this year is located on the seat belt collum behind the passenger seat this has lead to problems concerning corrosion, can anybody confirm this thanks
I used to be a 12volt installer for 18 years and I am thinking of buying this car and taking on this project. The lady is selling her van for $1500.00 and has about 250.000 klm or 155.342 miles, she would travel long distances very often so it is mostly highway driving not city and the body and the rest of the van is very clean.
So my question is should I go for it and it is worth looking at or turn the deal down
Thanks
thanks for the Reply
ANY IDEAS?
http://www.2carpros.com/forum/2003-dodge-caravan--speedometer-needle-vt177718.ht- ml
I am now at andyjoann@att.net
Thanks
Thanks,
Donno99 :confuse:
I would really appreciate the help..............
It started as follows:
I went shopping for about an hour or so. When I returned, the car would not start.
The battery was dead. I hadn't left anything on or running, and the battery was about a year old.
I replaced the battery, and the car started up without any problems. However, the instrument panel went dead for about 10 seconds and the turn signals would not work. After that, the panel lights were working, but as soon as I used my turn signal, the panel died again. When I turned off the signal, the panel lights came back on. Now this started happening every time.
At one point, however, I left the signal on, and after 10 seconds the panel lights came back on (even with the turn signal on).
Later, I disconnected the ground post on the battery, and when I touched it back to the ground post I didn't notice any sparks. I then turned on the turn signal and tried disconnecting, then reconnecting to the ground post on the battery. Now I noticed fairly substantial sparks. I thought that there was a short in the turn sign relay or something like that.
Resolution:
I tried disconnecting the battery and resetting the IOD, thinking it was the BCM.
That didn't seem to have any effect.
Ultimately I thank this forum and handyman49 for solving the problem. I showed my mechanic this link and he looked at the fuse box connector and found the corrosion.
When I got in the van there was a light on just above or to the left of the washer fluid light.
Looks like an engine or transmission???
Needless to say I didn't dare drive the van.
I drove it several times yesterday through out the day and did not notice any problems with it. One trip was 50 miles each way.
What is it?
I no longer have the manual and have tried doing a search but no luck.
I have checked all of the fluids and their levels are fine.
Faults are all being caused by fractured soldering on the rear of the instrument cluster circuit board; mainly ground returns - that's why so many odd & erratic things happen.
It's not a big deal removing the instrument cluster and resolder the obviouse fractures in the solder joints....
My opinion is that when everyone jumped on the 'lead free' bandwagon, the electronics industry went to a high tin type content thereby making the solder less flexible and prone to movement stress fractures....
IF you can search the site further, you should come across a final posting from me outlining the disassembly and resoldering instructions on my Dodge '98 Grand Caravan.
Don't let the dealers get their hands on this problem... From the horror stories I've heard, some people have paid big bucks for the dealers to guess & unecessarily replace all sorts of modules...
IF you can get partial functioning of the display cluster by thumping hard on the top of the dash, that's a good indication it's bad display cluster soldering..
Let me know if this works for you ok?
Cheers
john
No luck searching for your final post outlining the disassembly and resoldering instructions. Can you give us a link?