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Dodge Caravan Instrument Panel

13

Comments

  • molochmoloch Member Posts: 4
    I removed the Fuse box and noticed many prongs with nasty corrosion buildup. I cleaned them up the most that I could, also used some dielectric grease, unfortunately, no success.

    However, judging by corrosion in there, it is a highly probable cause for the source of the problem.

    I will try again with a used if possible fuse module or new if needed. I will keep you posted.

    Cheers,
  • ttothezttothez Member Posts: 1
    The gas hand and tempature gauges work but the odometer don't move. It is setting below zero, it use to set right at zero. What is wrong with it, should I change the whole instrument panel?
  • molochmoloch Member Posts: 4
    Alright, I finally found the problem. It wasn't due to the corrosion buildup, nor bad soldier points on the boards, but I damn chipmunk decided to make a nest beside the speaker mount on the driver side of the dash.

    Guess where all those wires go, right there and he/she decided to strip a wire completely and tried on 3 other ones too, but I believe he/she got a small shock because it's only small bites in those ones.

    So tomorrow, I will be re-wiring that section and hope that it did not short a resistor somewhere else.
  • cardisciplecardisciple Member Posts: 3
    Well, I'm happy to say I was able to fix this and pass the inspection in time! While I was disconnecting the battery so I could begin to disassemble the dash without fear of triggering an airbag (I was going to search for some harness or connection problems in there), I noticed a wire harness below the battery holder that looked in bad shape. I opened it up and noticed two wires were worn. I fixed those wires and fixed the problem. Wish I looked here first, but at least I learned a lot in the process. Thanks goes out to KarJunkie for his suggestions and support! :)
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    This wiring harness was below the battery holder? Did you remove the battery to find it? I am starting to have one gremlin after another attack my van, and I am really losing patience with it. At this point, I am leaning toward damaged/worn wires as the root of my woes, but I am really not sure where to even begin with it! As the problems are intermittent, I have no faith that all my diagnostics of various circuits bear any relevance from one moment to the next. Just when I think I have isolated the problem (and determined that another circuit is A-OK), that problem goes away and another suddenly arises.... With 213,000 miles on the van, I would be fine with a major mechanical problem, but the mechanical systems are perfect. These electrical gremlins are really getting under my skin. :sick:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • samb35samb35 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Dodge Caravan (same thing) that was doing the same thing. Just pulled the cluster out, removed the circuit board and badabing, I found a broken solder joint where the plug snaps in. Soldered it, now working great. Easy but little time consuming process. Hope this helps.
  • dduck22003dduck22003 Member Posts: 1
    my gauges on the van do not work, (temp, speedometer, and fuel gauge) the smaller lights come on when i start it and the check gages light stays lit but that's it, also the illumination does not work at night on the gauges, it all happened after i used the ac for a day and it got damp on the floor, they flickered on n off for a day then quit, then about 2 weeks later worked for about 4 hrs after i had pounded on the dash n such then all went dead again and have stayed that way, wiggled wires, checked fuses and such but no go,, do i just have to replace the cluster,, could really use the help, don't need to run out of gas again that really stunk.
  • red00roverred00rover Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1998 Dodge Caravan and was having intermittent problems. Van would start, run about 2 seconds then die, this would repeat several times then not start at all. My fuel, temp, etc. would not function. I could hit the top of the dash and all would begin to work and then the van would start. Never knew when this would happen. Took to shop several times, but if it ain't broke, You can't fix it. So..finally the shop changed the BCM...didn't help. After reading forum after forum about the same problem I finally told my mechcanic to change the cluster panel. Haven't had the problem since. Seems, from what I read, there was some bad solder connections on the cluster panel which would break contact intermittently. Anyway..fixed my problem, after spending $900 for a BCM I didn't need and couldn't return. Hope this helps.
  • mboemmelsmboemmels Member Posts: 7
    I have fixed many of these. I have seen fractured solder joints but that was never actually the problem. The red connector on the back gets corrosion (very light and hard to see) in the little pin connectors and the pins also bend a bit in the female part of the connector. take the connector off carfully to prevent breaking the solder and the little ears that lock the connector into place. then use a straight pin or brad to clean out each female contact in the connector, I also sprayed it with electrical parts cleaner but you must use one that is safe for plastics as it will turn the connector into a soft gooey mess pretty quickly. Then use a razor blade to scrape each male pin(on all sides as good as you can) in the other part of the connector then respray to clear debris and blow out with air if available. while letting it dry, use the straight pin to bend the female pin receplticles back so when the connector is put back together the squezze tight on the little male pins. before reconnecting the connector apply a bunch of dielectric grease inside and out of the connector to seal it from the humidity the dash gets from the A/C and such. push connector together and pull back apart a couple times to further clean the connection then snap it all back together. if your needles have fallen off or arent accurate anymore there is a procedure for resetting them and you can put the connector back on and turn key to on position (without starting it) and then place the needles carefully back at 0 on tach and speedo (it's a pain but make sure you do it right or they will be totally off and you'll have to pull it all apart again) fuel needle doesn't usually com off but the only way to accurately reset it is to fill tank and put needle back on at over the full mark a bit like it used to look when you'ld fill the tank. youcan contact me at mike2626@hotmail.com if you need further help.
  • mtnman9mtnman9 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Grand Voyager; a few months ago the instrument cluster went dead. Did some research and testing; discovered that if I pulled the 20A fuse for the rear window wiper, the tach, odometer and gear indicators would work, but the speedometer, temp and fuel gauges remained dead. Gotta love the obscure stuff. I figured the cluster was the problem, pulled it and replaced it with one from a junkyard. Problem solved... until three days ago. Exact same problem, right down to what works when I pull the rear wiper fuse. I have a hard time with the idea that two clusters went bad in the same way. I've tried pulling the IOD fuse to reboot the BCM but it doesn't work (not sure that's how to reboot it). Pulled the cluster, checked the solder connections but didn't resolder yet. Cleaned the pins and female connectors on the main plug. No luck. Oh, and the rear wipers/defrost and recirc/AC buttons don't work even with the fuse in. I haven't pulled the BCM and checked the 300-ohm resistor as recommended in an earlier post. Any ideas? I'm pretty good at gauging speed but not good enough to want to do this much longer...
  • nancywvnrsnancywvnrs Member Posts: 2
    how can I replace the instrument panel, all my gauges are out.
  • jdebbinsjdebbins Member Posts: 8
    you (and all the other people with intermittent instrument panel problems) need to do one simple but time consuming operation. Remove the instrument panel. Put it face down on your kitchen table. Remove the circuit board carefully.... it pulls away snugly.
    Flip the circuit board over, and observe the connector where the two rows of pins are soldered. Get out your soldering iron, flux each pin, and reflow the solder. If you are smart, you will get a magnifying glass out before you re-solder, and upon inspection you should see a circular hairline correct around one or more pins... there is your intermittent.

    Do this and I guarantee the problem solved.
  • jdebbinsjdebbins Member Posts: 8
    Actually I do have this problem... for about 6 months now!!! I am in the process of replacing the BCM... this is what the dealer told me to do. It is hard to find the exact replacement at boneyard, and then one has to visit the dealer to get the keys to work again (I think).

    Do you have this or did you fix it... and how did you?

    thanks!
  • mboemmelsmboemmels Member Posts: 7
    generally just cleaning them and using a pin to close the female connectors a bit to give better contact and you're golden. the pins get oxidized over time and loose voltage so use a pin and plastic safe electronics cleaner to clean each one. you can resolder ifyou want to but I havn't ever had to even when it appeared that the solder is cracked a bit.most of the time just unplugging it and plugging it back in will clean it enough to work so most people think the solder was the cure but the problem will come back if you don't clean the pins and bend them back together so they fully contact the male pins. use dielectric greasein the connection to keep it from happeningagain immediately after scraping them clean with a pin and razor knife. this always solves the problem...
  • nancywvnrsnancywvnrs Member Posts: 2
    Yes but how do I get it out?

    Thank you so much for replying, this is driving me crazy!

    Nancy
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Removal of a lot of molded plastic (starting at the very bottom of the dash under the instrument panel and working your way up!) and patience.... :(
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • mboemmelsmboemmels Member Posts: 7
    autozone.com has online repair guide that will show you how. takes about an hour for the whole process
  • johnbeckjohnbeck Member Posts: 12
    Thx for the original post & to others who also zeroed in on this solution. As an experienced electronics techy, I have been trying to 'analyze' this issue for 3 years on my '98 Grand Caravan. However, there's no way I was going to invest money or time on the issue until there was some light at the end of the tunnel. I was convinced it was a mechanical type of fault rather than an electronic failing per se. I now feel that the confidence is there that stripping out the instrument cluster is the correct course of action.. I will be resoldering ALL connections AND burnishing & coating connectors.... Thanks again to all for their input & I too will post my results. Cheers
  • jmcglaughlinjmcglaughlin Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2007 Dodge Caravan. My son left the ignition turned to on (not accessory) and left overnight. Next day battery was dead. The battery was recharged, but now the speedometer and tach needles have gone all the way around clockwise and are under the pins and do not work. I disconnected the battery and reconnected, same problem. Any ideas on what to check or how to get them reset/working? There were no problems before the "let me finish listening to my song incident...."
  • jmcglaughlinjmcglaughlin Member Posts: 2
    I followed the directions and it worked! I really appreciate the advice. My safety and speed limit consious wife is also appreciative. Thanks again.
  • xabachayxabachay Member Posts: 1
    This is exactly the problem (among a few others) that brought me to this forum via a Google search.

    After reading everything, I have decided to name my 2001 Caravan ... HAL.

    HAL: "Look Dave, I can see you're really upset about this. I honestly think you ought to sit down calmly, take a stress pill, and think things over. "
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Member Posts: 421
    I had the exact same thing happen to our 01 DGC this past Sunday night. Everything was working fine when I turned off the van to pump gas. I went and checked the fluids under the hood, like I usually do, when pumping gas. When I went to turn on the head lights the dash back lights would not turn on. (I checked the dimmer switch, hopping I accidently turn it off, but that wasn't the case.) Just the mileage, radio, gear selector and airbag light was on. I even tried turning the engine off a few times with know success. After I got home, I checked the fuse box for any visibly blown fuses and didn't see any. Also, I tried to find out which fuse was specifically for the dash lights, but wasn't able to. Well, today when I turned on the head lights, the dash lights all came back on. Still not sure what caused the problem, but thank the Lord it's fixed. :)
  • reonreon Member Posts: 19
    My 1994 caravan doesn't have a tach on the panel. Would a junk yard panel that does have a tach on it work?

    Are there other interfaces needed? Can I just plug the new panel in?

    Thanks for any help.
  • jdobbs2jdobbs2 Member Posts: 1
    Dude, Did you ever fix the problem? I have exactly the same problem...
    I have spent some time in all the stuff under the steering wheel and fuses & such. But I done know what looks correct/ so, even If I saw the problem I wouldnt know it.
    Just currious if you ever got the issue resolved?
  • mboemmelsmboemmels Member Posts: 7
    yes mine works fine for over 6 months now. it did go off once over a big bump but I think I didn't spend enough time cleaning each pin and socket.
  • reonreon Member Posts: 19
    "My 1994 caravan doesn't have a tach on the panel. Would a junk yard panel that does have a tach on it work?

    Are there other interfaces needed? Can I just plug the new panel in? "

    UPDATE:
    Yes, I researched this and was sure it would work, Bought a used one at the junk yard and installed it.

    I now have a TACHOMETER, VOLT METER, OIL PRESSURE gages in addition to the original gages.

    Works perfect. I did reinstall my original odometer to keep the van milage correct.
  • kenruekenrue Member Posts: 1
    my dodge caravan is out of all gauges i disconnect the instrument panel and re soldered but still the same i check all wires but cant see anything broken or burn wire i replace the bcm with same code engine runs but gauges does'nt work i clean fuse box not corroded its intack with dielectric grease i check all the solution that i read the forum but is'nt work any idea for help i try my best.i check the wiring from cluster i found it the pink color is 12v,the red w/white strip is 12v also but the vilolet is 0.50vand the whiye /black stripe also 0.50v any idea for that other say need this 2 wire at least 2.5v so this is rhe problem thanks anyway :sick:
  • mrt123mrt123 Member Posts: 2
    edited April 2010
    Hello I am looking at 2002 caravan , this van belongs to lady I know , she had this car stored outside over the winter. I went to start the van and the battery was dead ,tried to jump the car it started no problem but I noticed that the dash Cluster was completely dead , no rpms not gas no nothing and her turning signals where not operating. She said everything was working before she stored the car except the rear windshield wipers did not work. This is a basic model and has a aftermarket remote starter with key less door locks. I have been doing lots of reading here with lots of great help and tips. I also heard that the bcm is located under the passenger side could somebody confirm this. i know in the earlier years like the 98 models where under the drivers side because i had to replace one before. n
    I also read on another site the ground for the bcm for this year is located on the seat belt collum behind the passenger seat this has lead to problems concerning corrosion, can anybody confirm this thanks

    I used to be a 12volt installer for 18 years and I am thinking of buying this car and taking on this project. The lady is selling her van for $1500.00 and has about 250.000 klm or 155.342 miles, she would travel long distances very often so it is mostly highway driving not city and the body and the rest of the van is very clean.
    So my question is should I go for it and it is worth looking at or turn the deal down
    Thanks
  • jimmymc6969jimmymc6969 Member Posts: 13
    i whould try unpluging the battery for a couple of hours and reset computer i bought a 93 from dealer for a grand only had 60 thousand they couldnt figure out what was wronge with it had the same problems as yours it was the bcm put cluster in first once i got the bcm changed never had problem again that was two years ago only paid 15 at junkyard for bcm turned out car belonged to my bosses freinds mom she traded it in cause the place she took it to couldnt figure it out eigther had tons of new parts on it then it was a 15 dollar part i whould take the chance if it were me
  • mrt123mrt123 Member Posts: 2
    thanks , i talked with her and she is going to give me a chance to try to fix it before buying the van ,very nice of her, i am going to go through this forum and look closely at everything.

    thanks for the Reply
  • bearelk6691bearelk6691 Member Posts: 1
    TODAY I DROVE TO TOWN , SHUT OFF AT YARD SALE . WHEN I RESTARTED TACH AN SPEEDOMETER PEGGED OUT! . COME HOME . CLEANED BATTERY POST`S [VERY LITTLE THERE] ACTUALY CHANGED OUT COMPUTER [HAD A NEW ONE] ALL FUSES ECT GOOD ,RUNS GOOD! JUST TACH AN SPEEDOMETER DO NOT RETURN TO ZERO! IT ONLY HAS 150 THOUSAND ON IT !WITH NEW TRANS AN LOTS OF OTHER NEW PARTS . I REPLACE WITH NEW AS I CAN TO KEEP IT UP!

    ANY IDEAS?
  • andyjoann2010andyjoann2010 Member Posts: 3
    Sorry I haven't responded sooner but I gave up on trying to fix. I didn't want to get in to cluster panel for fear of breaking something critical. I have not tried to replace BCM which on my 99 Plymouth GC is under radio/heating controls/storage compartment....I think. I noticed that when starting if any lights come on on the panel before in gaging the starter then the ding will not occur. But lately is comes on all the time. If you find that it is a BCM I might try to find one at Junkyard.

    I am now at andyjoann@att.net
    Thanks
  • jspitzleyjspitzley Member Posts: 2
    Ok - wow- perhaps help is available Dorthy! - we have a 1994 Grand Voyager, it sat for a year while the new Odessey took its place in the garage. I finally got some time to start and run. After much fuss over our old friend, it started and ran great. Only real problems, the fuel gage reads empty (tank is full), the airbag idiot light is on, and the rear wiper does not work. Each time I replace the fuse(for the airbag and rear wiper), it blows immediately. I've read the other posts, but not sure that they apply. Are these items connected? any suggestion greatly appreciated.
  • benderb12benderb12 Member Posts: 2
    Where is bcm on 1995 caravan se? Another site said it didn/t have one but I don't think that is true since all other year models seem to have one. What does it look like? Is it at the same place that andyjoann described in post 135 above? (under radio, heater controls, storage compt) this is where I heard loud ticking comming from intermittantly before everything went out. All guages, speed, tack, door locks, lift gate release, all ding bells, warning lights, and dash lichts are out. Car starts and runs and outside lights, interior reading lights still work. I am not sure if the famous Soldier problem or the Red connector corrosion problem at the circuit board of the cluster is the problem --hitting dash etc didn't bring it back to life. Also, would these last two affect the locks, latch,and dash lights? Please tell where bcm is and how to remove it. Center consol is removed.
  • andyjoann2010andyjoann2010 Member Posts: 3
    I found the BCM under the driver side instrument panel behind the fuse box. It looks a little difficult to get at. I gave up on fixing it since I thought you needed to get it programmed with VIN and mileage, but did find an outfit the does it for $225.
  • benderb12benderb12 Member Posts: 2
    Now I am confused andyjoann2010. In post 135 you said under radio and storage area. In 138 you say behind fuse box on driver side. Are these two different cars? Still I need to know what it looks like. Is it the size of a stick of gum - a pack of cigarettses - or more like a vcr tape?? Does it have plugs going into it? etc. Somebody please clue me in.
  • andyjoann2010andyjoann2010 Member Posts: 3
    I was wrong in thinking that the BCM was under center consel, the BCM on 1999 is as stated under the driver side instrument panel behind fuse box. It has a double connector on front and is 7x7 in size roughly. I would check out if it has to be reprogrammed. It can be check for errors by a company at 1-800-519-5279
  • jimmymc6969jimmymc6969 Member Posts: 13
    i have a 93 changed my bcm it was on the driver side silver box gots two or three plugs its abouht 5 inches by 5 inches got it at a junk yard two years ago still working fine 25 bucks good luck
  • jimmymc6969jimmymc6969 Member Posts: 13
    its on the rhite side between steering wheel and consill
  • donno99donno99 Member Posts: 1
    Is there any reason for the little square cubbyhole in the center of the dash? It's right where the circular clock is on the T&C. Is there some option available that uses that space?

    Thanks,

    Donno99 :confuse:
  • pkardyspkardys Member Posts: 1
    What instructions were you given to correct this problem????
    I would really appreciate the help..............
  • kolbspakolbspa Member Posts: 1
    When we first purchased this vehicle this spring. The instrument and center console lights did not work. I did find the battery to be extremely corroded and cleaned with a baking soda water mix, removed the pos/neg cables, and cleaned posts. Doing so brough back lights to the dash and radio. However, the climate zone will not light up. Does anyone know how to remidy this issue? I have even gone so far as to pop off decorative facia and unhook the conncections to the module (hoping to find a fuse). This was not the case..It is very frustrating and quite difficult to see at night when driving. PLEASE HELP!!!!
  • kcollierkcollier Member Posts: 1
    My 2001 Caravan has had almost the exact same issue.

    It started as follows:
    I went shopping for about an hour or so. When I returned, the car would not start.
    The battery was dead. I hadn't left anything on or running, and the battery was about a year old.

    I replaced the battery, and the car started up without any problems. However, the instrument panel went dead for about 10 seconds and the turn signals would not work. After that, the panel lights were working, but as soon as I used my turn signal, the panel died again. When I turned off the signal, the panel lights came back on. Now this started happening every time.

    At one point, however, I left the signal on, and after 10 seconds the panel lights came back on (even with the turn signal on).

    Later, I disconnected the ground post on the battery, and when I touched it back to the ground post I didn't notice any sparks. I then turned on the turn signal and tried disconnecting, then reconnecting to the ground post on the battery. Now I noticed fairly substantial sparks. I thought that there was a short in the turn sign relay or something like that.

    Resolution:
    I tried disconnecting the battery and resetting the IOD, thinking it was the BCM.
    That didn't seem to have any effect.

    Ultimately I thank this forum and handyman49 for solving the problem. I showed my mechanic this link and he looked at the fuse box connector and found the corrosion.
  • decor42decor42 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Grand Caravan. I let my van run for about 5 minutes this morning before I planned to leave for work.
    When I got in the van there was a light on just above or to the left of the washer fluid light.
    Looks like an engine or transmission???
    Needless to say I didn't dare drive the van.
    I drove it several times yesterday through out the day and did not notice any problems with it. One trip was 50 miles each way.
    What is it?
    I no longer have the manual and have tried doing a search but no luck.
    I have checked all of the fluids and their levels are fine.
  • rammy121rammy121 Member Posts: 1
    mate, great answer...it really worked. we're about to drive off from the netherlands to london. did the pre-checks last night and this happened. read your article...hey presto!! cheers!! :)
  • eclaypooleclaypool Member Posts: 1
    edited November 2010
    :sick: did you ever find out what caused the instrument panel to go out. We are having the same problem with ours and would like to try everything possible to fix it before we take it to a mechanic. We have no speedomter, or turn signals along with pretty much everything else on the panel. Any suggestions?
  • johnbeckjohnbeck Member Posts: 12
    My problem has definitely been fixed !!
    Faults are all being caused by fractured soldering on the rear of the instrument cluster circuit board; mainly ground returns - that's why so many odd & erratic things happen.
    It's not a big deal removing the instrument cluster and resolder the obviouse fractures in the solder joints....
    My opinion is that when everyone jumped on the 'lead free' bandwagon, the electronics industry went to a high tin type content thereby making the solder less flexible and prone to movement stress fractures....
    IF you can search the site further, you should come across a final posting from me outlining the disassembly and resoldering instructions on my Dodge '98 Grand Caravan.
    Don't let the dealers get their hands on this problem... From the horror stories I've heard, some people have paid big bucks for the dealers to guess & unecessarily replace all sorts of modules...
    IF you can get partial functioning of the display cluster by thumping hard on the top of the dash, that's a good indication it's bad display cluster soldering..
    Let me know if this works for you ok?
    Cheers
    john
  • all4gssall4gss Member Posts: 1
    johnbeck,

    No luck searching for your final post outlining the disassembly and resoldering instructions. Can you give us a link?
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