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Comments
Rob
The dimmer switch on my '98 GC Sport has apparently failed and I cannot figure out how to access and remove it. It is located low on the left of the dash next to the headlight switch.
Any response will be greatly appreciated.
Since you say it functions the same with either ignition key, my guess is that the receiver or something else related to the immobilizer system is intermittently failing: Possibly wiring, possibly the body control module, possibly... ?.
Thanks!!!
The only thing you have to lose is the time it takes to try the re-soldering of the connections.
I am finding this very difficult to comprehend. $12.00 for a 15/30 watt soldering iron at Radio Shack, an hours worth of work, and the instruments now work. I could not tell which connection was bad so I touched the iron to the backside of where the black connector goes into the panel. Then took the panel further apart and touched all the connections for the lower connector. The gages and rear window wiper work. The ABS light is out and after disconnecting the battery for awhile, the Service Engine Soon light extinguished.
If that doesn't work, I'll move on to the BCM and checking it's soldering. I guess it's possible that there could be a bad transistor from some other posts. That's all easy enough to check. Sure is a pain to get to, though.
nothing.
It looked fine, so I put it back in and everything worked. I'm guessing it was a bad connection at the wire? I don't know. It works and that's that. Now on to the power windows...
Dave
If you get a used one, make certain that the part numbers match.
Good luck!
I just picked up a 94 Voyager 154k on it. The vehicle was well maintained. I have an issue with the gas guage which is baffling me. Intermittantly the guage will go from the proper amount and then fairly rapidly go down and flatline and the low fuel warning light comes on. The battery was changed recently (and this was a recent issue for the previous owner) The alternator is charging properly as I checked this earlier. The airbag light also stays on. I have removed power from the system to reset the ECM, and the trouble persists. The fuses and relays check out.
Can you lead me in the right direction? Any assistance is greatly appreciated
TIA
Tom
I find that a quick smack on the top of the dash above the instrument cluster often wakes it up, but it is becoming increasingly stubborn about working as time goes on. I really need to just pull out the cluster and solder the joint of the main connector, but I have plenty of other things to get done. :mad:
I just rec'd the van today, as my jeep died:( Soon as it got dark, I said oooh lets take the van for a drive so I can see what the dash lights look like. Well, the ONLY lights that come on are the odometer, tripometer, and the digital clock on the radio. All the instruments work fine, there is just no lights. Is there only one light for the instrument panel AND the radio/AC etc?
Is this a lightbulb issue, a fuse issue, or a soldering issue?
I am taking back the car tomorrow, I was hoping to give the mechanic some heads up insight.
Thanks in advance,
angela
C.B.
The IPM Fuse & Relay Center is located under the hood between the battery and the firewall near the Drivers side fender and the cover is easily removed by pressing in on a couple of clips.
What this does is reboot the Body Control Module which controls many things including the lights in question. You won't harm anything else by doing this and it could solve your problem. You will have to reset your clock afterward.
C.B.
I love you guys (and gals) here!
~angela
BTW I had no idea there were 5 individual bulbs in the instrument cluster, I always thought it was just one big one..
I had the same issue awhile back and had read through here about the weak solder joints. Mine has been working ever since.
Good luck.
I have taken my BCM out of my 98 grand caravan, in which the speedometer still does not work, even after repacing it from a scrapyard. Otherwise, the van will start, but does have the ABS light on. I have PN P04801062AC for the BCM.
I have the cover off and see that the components are almost all surface mount. On th top I do not see the 330 ohm resistor you are talknig about. Is it on the back? I see one resistor (331) which sits on the back near the blue connnect near the pins of a component identified as Z5 on the front.
Thanks,
Rich
A step by step remedy will be highly appreciated. Please, I need help urgently.
Savior.
mike2626@hotmail.com
Sam
When this happens everything on the van works except the electronic mileage and trip meter will not light up.
The van starts and runs for about 5 seconds then stalls out it will restart then stall for about 5 times then it will not crank at all BUT everything else is ok IE:radio,lights ect.
When you let the van just sit as short as 10 minutes and sometime as long as overnight the next time you turn the key the electronic mileage and trip meter will light up like it is supposed to and the van starts and runs fine then the next time or maybe weeks later it will do the very same thing again
Every once in a while the electronic dashboard will flat line
It shows no error codes when running fine and of course it is never close to a repair station when it won’t start.
Although the engine would turn over and I could drive the van, the gauges would not work or be very erratic. Replacing the speedometer from a junk yard did not help, Also the famous resolder job of the connector on the back of speedometer did not help either, although some have claimed to find cracked solder joints on this connector.
This is what fiixed my speedometer gauges and lights not working, and possibly the engine not starting. The problem is in the body control module under the dash on the left side by the drivers feet. This is a pain to get out and patience is required. Once the body control module is removed, take the cover off to remove the circuit board. On the back side, there are many surface mounted components. With a magnifying glass look for a 300 ohm resistor (301 will be the marking). For mine, it was the only one there. Carefully unsolder it from the board. Replace it with any off the self 300 ohm resistor. What helped to take all the dash appart (and other dead end attempts to fix) was the Chiltons repair manual from the library for the caravan and voyager 1996 - 1999. See the chassis electrical for taking out much of the dash in order to get to the BCM.
For this fix, I give credit to the some technician on this board (and other forums) who said he works on the body control modules. Apparently, the resistor is opening up, and it prevents communication to the speedometer from the BCM.
As always, for safety, disconnect the battery before doing any of this. It would hurt to have the airbag go off :sick:
Handyman49. :confuse:
I also have the 98 Plymouth Voyager and am having the flatline issues. I don't have the doors getting locked and I can't hit the dash and have it come back to life. I have just survived with it. It seemed that when I drove it to work at night (I work overnights) that it would be dead but when I started it in the morning to come home it would work fine. But not today. I checked the fuses and nothing. I read JMcconnell say something about a replacement BCM offered by Chrysler? Is that still the case or do they not give a dang now that they are folding?
I need help with this. I don't like driving with out knowing where my gas gauge is at and how fast I am driving. I have a feeling its the BCM since thats what everyone is saying but I don't want to pay 250+ to get it replaced. Any ideas? I am not very soder apt. Thanks for the help.
I would try that. It would say you headaches.
My 2000 Plymouth Voyager's instrument panel has been doing weird stuff lately. The speedometer often will go flat, as well as the temp. and fuel gauges (although not always together, often it is the speedometer alone). My odometer often will blank out as well or get brighter, and my seat belt sign will come on at times.
This is were it gets interesting... If I have my foot on the gas for some time, the gagues may go flat, but as soon as I lift my foot off the gas pedal all the gauges come back on! Also, if the gauges go flat while I have the vechile in park, as soon as I shift it into a gear all the gauges come back on again.
Hitting the dash does not bring the gauges back on- either they come on again unprovoked, or I use my shifter or gas pedal trick as mentioned above.
I don't mind this so much, except when I took the van in for emissions inspection, it could not pass because the OBD stopped communicating. The inspector stated it started to communicate, but when the gagues went flat the communication connection failed. I wonder if this is all related some how. But how? Is it the Instrument Panel Cluster, the BCM, or the PCM? I have limited time as I need to get this reinspected soon. Please help! (Also, the other day my rear windshield wiper came on just once all by itself. Wierd. Is all this related, or am I dealing with a plethora of problems?) :confuse:
Now, my instrument cluster and upper panel are completely dead. It would somewhat try to reboot itself after a while on the road, but simply go back dark in a matter of seconds.
I was wondering if you had found any other alternatives than changing the fuse box.
I also checked the single black wire connected on the frame as stated by rbergstrom, but its all good.
Thank you
I guess I will check the local scrap yards tomorrow and hope to find a good looking fuse box. In the mean time, I will try to remove it and check for signs of corrosion in the connectors to the fuse box.
Thanks