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Chevrolet Cavalier Starting/Stalling Problems

245

Comments

  • chevy_man76chevy_man76 Member Posts: 9
    Your fuel filter is way past due for a change. Depending on your model, they are not hard to change yourself. You will save yourself some problems in the future if you change it now. The Haynes manual is correct, you should change every 30,000 miles, if you want to keep it running at it's peak. :shades:
  • yazmanyazman Member Posts: 1
    I'm wondering if someone out here can advise on what I should look for. When I take to my garage, we have cooler days, and they cannot duplicate the problem, and the car works fine. Apparently nothing comes up on their diagnostic:

    On days where it’s 80 degrees of more, the car often registers hotter than normal
    Normally, Temp gauge needle never exceeds past ¼ of the dial.

    Of the times that I’ve experienced problems, the gauge needle is at the ½ area. (It never registers anywhere near the hot half of gauge, but certainly beyond the normal ¼ position)

    I will drive, and then will loose all acceleration at once. The car does not stall, unless I try to give it gas. If I try to give too much gas, it will stall.

    If I turn the car off (even if for a couple seconds) , when I re-start, it will act normally, and I can drive. (albeit for a short distance)
    If I don’t turn the car off, this “no-acceleration condition” does not improve, (even after ten-twenty minutes.)

    THe engine does not seem overly hot, and I am able to remove the anti-freeze overflow tank, with no problem, or seemingly excessive heat)

    Could there be some sensor or related item that when it senses too high a temperature, it restricts gas flow?
    When the car is turned off, perhaps it “resets” whatever this might be? Which is why the car acts normally when turned off and then turned back on?

    Perhaps the thermostat is not working properly, and does not adjust adequately on hotter days to cool the car properly

    The Cavalier's cooling system requires a special brand of anti-freeze. As far as I know, it has this particular brand of anti-freeze, if it has been mixed with regular anti-freeze, might it not cool the car as it should on hotter days?

    Could probably be a combination of these options.

    I was hoping someone reading might be able to point me in the right direction on fixing this.
    Thanks!
    Sid
  • chevy_man76chevy_man76 Member Posts: 9
    You are on the right track. For the cooling system, I had a similar problem with my 94 cavalier, although it didn't affect the way it ran, but the temp. started out the same way.. normally it would stay in the 1/4 position, then as the temp. outside went up, the temp. gauge would go up to the 1/2 position or a little past it and it stayed that way for awhile then the temp. gauge started going to the 3/4 position then it started overtemping. My radiator was full, my water pump was new, and my thermostat was new. I pulled off the radiator and found that it was about 75% plugged. I replaced it and the temp. gauge stays in the 1/4 position now. It would be a good idea to have your radiator, thermostat and water pump checked. Also have your cooling system flushed if there are no issues there and refill with the right special brand of antifreeze that it requires, do not mix different antifreeze types. For the acceleration problem, it could be a number of things. First, change your fuel filter. Check your cat. converter. Try running injector cleaner through your injectors. Replace your O2 sensor if it's never been replaced. Check your fuel pump & fuel pressure regulator for proper pressure. Check EGR valve. Replace air filter if it looks dirty. Check PCV valve & replace if plugged. Have your sensors checked (MAP sensor, TP sensor, Air Charge/temp sensor, IAC solenoid, EGR solenoid,etc,etc) for any fault codes. Check your spark plugs & replace if fouled (excess carbon buildup) Check your plug wires & replace if they are starting to arc. An issue with any of the above can cause the problem you describe. Note: just because a diagnostic was run on your car & nothing showed up doesn't mean that there isn't a fault, any decent mechanic knows this. Hope this helps. :shades:
  • larryj54larryj54 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 94 Cavalier RS convertible; 2.2l Auto. I have had many of the heat and sputtering problems I've read here. This is a reply 1st to the
    1. stalling at a stop unless you shift to park or neutral.

    Solution: Most likely it is your lock up torque converter not releasing. This happened to me and I feared big $ but the easy fix was FREE!!! Simply disconnect the electrical connection to the tranny. It does not need this feature to work, and I have now put 40,000mi on mine this way. (still get 32-34mpg on the highway too)

    2. Overheating!

    Solution: Check your radiator for clogging. Mine was 100% clogged and could not be acid cleaned!!! I had to put in a new radiator. The good news is that the darn car still ran awesome even with a fully clogged radiator!!! The scarey over heating was only at a stop or in slow traffic.

    3. Bucking, and general cantankerous running:

    Solution: Probably plug wires. Mine was very sensitive to this. Would runs awful in wetter weather. New (expensive) plug wires.. runs like a champ.

    Cavaliers were such great little cars. Chevy BLEW it when they opted to kill it for the Cobalt.

    Hope this helps
  • chevy_man76chevy_man76 Member Posts: 9
    Ok, here's a little update

    1, The cooling system was repaired last year by replacing the radiator. Temp now stays normal

    2. As for my transmission, the problem was the TCC (shift) solenoid ($44 dollar part) on the side of the transmission. It now shifts like a new transmission.

    3. The plug wires and plugs are brand new. I took a closer look and found a fuel leak (small leak) coming from the num. 3 injector leaking into the cylinder from the lower injector gasket, and my fuel pressure regulator is faulty, & my fuel pump is starting to whine, so it's getting ready to go out soon.

    Before this car started having these problems it ran like a champ for a car that has over 217,000 original miles on it. :shades:
  • joachjoach Member Posts: 2
    When I got my car at 60k miles. I had it for about two weeks and my starter would not turn over the engine. So I thought maybe I needed a new starter. I got one and it worked fine........................for about 4 to 5 months then it would sometimes work it sounded like the sprocket gear (what ever it is called i cant remember the actual name) would just spin and not connect to the flywheel. then even after i let go of the key it would still spin. so i started popping the clutch to start the car until i could afford the $200 to get yet a new starter. I just got a new starter about 4 months ago and it has worked fine until tonight it started doing the same thing.
    Now i thought i just got a bad starter the first time i bought one, but now i am thinking something is wrong with something else that is causing my starter to fail.
    If anyone can help me out on this it would be very helpful.
    my car is a 2.2liter and a five speed manual transmission with about 97k miles on it. Thank you for any help
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    All I can say is the chain store rebuilts are of poor quality. If you do your own work get life time rebuilts.
  • neenersneeners Member Posts: 2
    yeahhh so i took my POS in and was told it was the fuel pressure regulator. so i replace it.doesn't do [non-permissible content removed]. take it back and am told i need some AC fuse [non-permissible content removed]. replace it, works fine for about 2 weeks until my bf is driving us to dinner and my clutch goes to the floor. check the reservoir and it's empty. fill it with clutch/brake fluid. doesn't do [non-permissible content removed]. have car towed to friend's shop.

    friend says i need a need reservoir and tubes. calls a buddy and finds out it only comes in a $500 kit that includes the slave cylinder (which i don't need). friend's buddy talks it down to $130. awesome. replaces reservoir and tubes, keeps it an extra day to be sure. runs great for 1 day then breaks down 1 block from the shop.

    friend does more investigating and finds out i DO need to replace the slave cylinder. but guess what? cavaliers' slave cylinder is bolted inside the transmission which means this lucky guy has to pull my transmission. thank GOD he only charges $60/hr for labor.

    oh yeah and thanks to the leaking fluid, my clutch is worn but can withstand about 1 more year.

    my next buy will be a honda or toyota :mad:
  • joachjoach Member Posts: 2
    Ok thank you
  • jdrockerjdrocker Member Posts: 1
    Any help here would be appreciated. I have a 2003 Cavalier, manual 5 spd tranny, which intermittently will cause my engine RPMS to stay around 2000-3000 RPM's when I take it out of gear to stop. Shortly after this, it'll start to stall when I take it out of gear or just slow down even. It doesn't do it consistently, but every now and then I'll have problems with starting it back up. If I let it sit for a few minutes it'll start back up and act normal again for a while before it does it again. I've already replaced the spark plugs, ignition module and control and I had the catalytic converter replaced as well due to failure. There are no codes, so I'm looking for any help before I have to take it in to someone to start guessing and randomly throwing parts at it. :confuse:
  • chevy_man76chevy_man76 Member Posts: 9
    Update # 2:

    Num. 3 injector was faulty & leaking. Replaced injector with new gaskets and now runs like new. No more sputtering and hesitation while in gear. Idle is nice and smooth in gear & plenty of acceleration down the road. Even idles & runs smooth with the AC running. Not bad for a car with over 217,400 miles on it! This car is full of surprises! :shades:
  • lsutigerfanlsutigerfan Member Posts: 4
    I DROVE THE CAR TO HOUSTON THIS PAST WEEKEND. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND THROUGH A CODE PO 132. AUTO ZONE SAID IT WAS A O2 SENSOR SO I CHANGED IT AND 30 MIN LATER SAME CODE. WHAT THE CAR IS DOING IS IT IS STARTING PERFECT BUT AFTER A WHILE IT WILL NOT HOLD A IDLE AND TO KEEP IT FROM DYEING YOU HAVE TO KEEP ADVANCING IN SPEED AND IT WILL RUN PERFECT BUT IF YOU STOP IT WILL DIE. DOES NOT DO IT ALL THE TIME CAN ANYONE HELP. I DROVE IT BACK FROM HOUSTON AND DID NOT GIVE ME ANY TROUBLE ON THE WAY BACK BUT WHEN I GOT HOME IT SET FOR ABOUT 30 MIN AND I WENT TO THE STORE AND IT STARTED AGAIN... THANKS FOR ANY HELP
    PS CAR IS A 2000 CAVALIER 2.2 WITH 95 THOUSAND MILES :confuse:
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Is it running rich, pull the vacuum off the fuel pressure regulator, if you see or smell fuel replace it.
  • lsutigerfanlsutigerfan Member Posts: 4
    WILL THAT MAKE IT THROUGH THAT O2 SESOR CODE ALSO
  • lsutigerfanlsutigerfan Member Posts: 4
    DID THAT DID NOT SMELL GAS PLUGED IT BACK IN ENGINE LIGHT IS STILL ON AND IT IS RUNNING GREAT NO STALL NO LOSS OF POWER WHAT THE HELL CAN THIS BE... IM THINKING TRASH IN THE TANK BECAUSE IT WILL ONLY DO IT WHEN IT IS FULL ALSO... :confuse:
  • iceangel80iceangel80 Member Posts: 5
    Try changing the Throttle position sensor...I had the exact same problem and it seemed to do it only when the tank was full also. I know it doesnt make sense. I went through four throttle position sensors before I got one that worked right. DO NOT BUY ONE FROM AUTO ZONE. Good think it is easy to cahnge. I have a 97 cavi. Hope this helps.
  • iceangel80iceangel80 Member Posts: 5
    also check the throttle position sensor
  • iceangel80iceangel80 Member Posts: 5
    have you tried throttle position sensor? mine went in and out of messing up and caused it to miss out. It never pulled a code.
  • iceangel80iceangel80 Member Posts: 5
    sopunds to me like the ecm that controlls the coil packs. It is a metal plate behind the coil packs
  • iceangel80iceangel80 Member Posts: 5
    my caviler is a 97 with a 2.2. it is hard to start. i can turn the key forever before it starts. it also has a slight nmiss out.

    I am a mechanic and I am stumped.

    I have changed:

    plugs, wires, coils (both), ecm, computer, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, throttle position sensor, 02 sensor, evap container (charcole canister), all four fuel injectors, and many more other parts.

    any ideas?
  • chevy_man76chevy_man76 Member Posts: 9
    Check for a leak, ie: fuel, coolant, vacume. I had a simular issue and it turned out to be a leaking lower injector gasket. I was able to find it after pulling my plugs out & finding excess fuel in the cylinder of my cavalier. If the gaskets are not seated just right it will leak (dump) fuel into the cylinders making it hard to start and with a slight miss after it finally starts. Hope this helps. :shades:
  • shearerdshearerd Member Posts: 1
    im workin on a 97 2.2 auto trans and battery keeps actin like its dead put a new alternator and battery in it. i got the car with the tranny half way out and i was wondering also the starter wiring. because when u turn the key the starters clicks. i had the starter checked and it was ok. so im pretty much stumped any help would be appreciated
  • mrtaz007mrtaz007 Member Posts: 1
    First off, I got a check engine light... "inefficient catalyst".. changed O2 sensor in front of catalytic converter as AutoZone rep. suggested $21 While I was under the car I noticed that the old sensor was loose, I was able to remove it by hand, "no wrench" I figured mabe that was why the light came on, it wasn't reading properly. Changed it anyways while I was under the car. A week ago ended up locking keys in the running car with the hood up. All my tools were in the locked house. Figured while I waited for someone to bring a second house key, I could stall the car and save some gas. Opened up the intake, and srayed some throttle body cleaner down the intake, usually that will stall cars right away... it sputtered a little bit, and then finally died. Got the keys back etc... good to go. Anyways, to clear the check engine light from the O2 sensor trouble, I disconnected the battery and let it sit a while. Now, the car has randomly stalled after accelerating on a cold start. One time it sputtered and died, another time it shut right off. I cleaned the battery termianls (that really were not that dirty) and it still did it again. Could I have messed something up with the throttle body cleaner ?? What else should I look into? So far I have heard, Throttle position sensor. Fuel pump, and my other car had similar issues with crank position sensors. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks.
  • krfkrf Member Posts: 4
    used scanner and it told me 02 sensor circuit malfunction (bank1 sensor 1) and system to lean (bank 1) i pulled spark plug and grounded plug and cranked it got good spark, what is keeping engine from starting
  • choneychoney Member Posts: 1
    i have a 05 cavalier 5 spd with 85000 miles, owned the car since it was new, recently it has developed a hesitation under acceleration and highway speeds, it idles fine and theres no service engine light(trouble codes). i have replaced the air filter spark plugs and fuel filter, i have also added a bottle of fuel injuector cleaner still no change, it only hesitates intermitintly.
  • jagtwlvejagtwlve Member Posts: 2
    I encountered a similar problem on a chev 4cyl with a coil pack ignition ( no distributor). It would run for a while and suddenly die out and wouldn't restart until a 10 to 20 min. cooling period. It turned out to be a crankshaft position sensor going bad. On this engine it was located in the engine block under the ignition module on the firewall side.
  • jagtwlvejagtwlve Member Posts: 2
    Anyone with a 4cyl chevy with coil pack ignition that encounters a sudden loss of power should check if all the spark plugs are igniting. It is common for one of the two coil packs failing, causing running on only two cylinders. But it should be noted that this condition can also be caused by a failed ignition module which has a limp home mode by design when it fails and only fires two cylinders. This design is an improvement over old modules that just died and left you stranded.
  • eightball2eightball2 Member Posts: 1
    I purchased a 2004 cavalier in May of 2004. In May of 2006 my son and I was out shopping and when we came out of the store and I started my car I had no radio, the windows would not go down, the air conditioner would not work and I had no controls on my dash, such as speed odometer, gas gauge did not work, the mileage did not turn, I had nothing but the car was running. I made it home and when I tried to turn the car off, it would not stop running. So I had a friend come over and he unhooked the battery and removed a fuse and the car shut off. I had it towed to the car dealer where I bought it and they replaced the ignition switch. Well here it is again 2 years later and the other day the car started but once again I had nothing in the car, no air, no radio and no dash controls but this time we could shut it off. Now it will not start at all when you turn the key, but you can pop the clutch to start it. Anyone with any ideas, PLEASE HELP!!!!! :mad:
  • krfkrf Member Posts: 4
    i used scanner and it told me 02 sensor circuit malfunction (bank1 sensor 1) and i also got system to lean (bank 1) i pulled spark plug and it was dry grounded plug and cranked it got good spark, the engine will not start what is keeping engine from starting any ideas would be helpful i am stumped at this time. :confuse: the car does have a half tank of gas in it
  • bbve78bbve78 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 cavalier with 160,000 kms on it about three months ago it started to stall (usually when at a complete stop) I had the computer read and it said my o2 sensor so it was replaced about a week later it started again so again had it read is was the MAP sensor so It was replaced and with that the throttle body gasket was replaced, it then began to stall when ever it pleased it is now reading sytem to lean I have had it looked at and nobody can seem to figure it out I also had the cadilac convertor change just in case it was plugged, that wasnt the problem either i dont know alot about cars and am very frustrated somebody please help ???? any suggestions???
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Filter in the tank dirty, fuel pump going bad. Have some one check fuel pressure to see if it is in specs.
  • bbve78bbve78 Member Posts: 2
    Ok I will have that checked and see if that what it is. Thank you for the sugestion !!
  • jimbeeby99jimbeeby99 Member Posts: 2
    I just joined this forum today and saw your message. If you are still having a starter problem, when this happened to me, after the third starter change my mechanic found a bad wire (fusible link) to the starter assembly. The starter would spin but not engage most of the time. Mechanic tried wiggling the wires and found the wire broken internally, went back to starter #2 and got refund for #3.
  • jimbeeby99jimbeeby99 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 Z-24 Cavalier 5-spd with 140,000 miles which is great to drive most of the time. Dead stock except for Goodyear F-1 tires it will out-corner a Lotus Exige on a tight road with no straight sections. But I had that "stall at idle and won't restart until the car sits for 10-20 minutes" problem that others have had. After replacing almost the entire ignition and fuel systems and most of the sensors, it turned out to be the crankshaft position sensor that was causing the stalling. I still have a rough idle when cold and the evap system will not run its diagnostic, occasionally lighting the MIL light with code P0440. The O2 sensor is original and slow to pass its diagnostic, so plan to replace it and then try to find the evap problem. I'm wondering if the rough idle, slow O2 sensor and evap errors are related. Any ideas? I'd like to go back to hunting Lotuses again.
  • lady04lady04 Member Posts: 1
    Hi I have a 92 chevy cavalier 2.2 I had broken wires and replaced them also the plugs. IDrove it for 6 days and it died found out we had no spark So I then replaced the control module,and crank sensor,the coils tested good.After trying to start car saw sparks from yet another broken wire,replaced the wires again.
    Drove it to work it did fine. On the way home it sounded as it was misfiring and if i got up tp 35 it would stall. Came home to check plugs and yet again another set of bad wires got new ones again. Now if I try to start the car it runs for a second and stalls.it will not stay running,plus it sounds like it maybe backfiring,and even misfirig,but we have double and triple checked to make sure we are connecting wires in right order.Can anyone help me I am at the end of my ropes and running out of money.I need this car to work and can not get another car.Any help would be greatly appreciated. :confuse:
  • doodles247doodles247 Member Posts: 1
    I really could use some advice on this dilema....My car has given me no other issues other than this one. When I go to start my car and go to pull out it will stall on me ( not all the time). Having this issue for some time I have figured out that what I need to do to get it not to stall is to turn my wheel right then left (or left to right) for the check engine, abs and no track light to come on. Once those lights are on then I can pull out with no problem. I had my car hooked up to a computer and the only thing that tells the mechanic is that I have a right front wheel sensor issue. I did not have it fixed just yet because I wanted to see what else people had to say. Also if I can start up and pull out without those lights to come on and go to excellerate for example at a traffice light...my car will hesitate and the no track light comes on but then will go off..any suggestions would be very helpful...or if anyone else has had this similar problem, I would like to know how you repaired your vehicle...thanks!
  • dave923dave923 Member Posts: 1
    The car starts and revs just fine but when i put it into reverse or drive it stalls out. i can put it into nuetural and it will be just fine. transmission fluid and oil is checked and is fine. could it be a soloniod? transmision, need to have this car run for about a week before i go into the navy so i dont need it long.
  • sfxo1965sfxo1965 Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I have an '05 Cavalier and have EXACTLY the same problem you have with your '04. I had one wheel sensor replaced and the problem stopped for about a week and now is doing it again - the stalling when taking off and such. Did you ever get yours fixed?

    Let me know, thanks!
  • brianbobrianbo Member Posts: 6
  • brianbobrianbo Member Posts: 6
    Hi,
    In Feb 08 , I hit a huge puddle and car would stall. I had wire and plugs replaced. In May after rain, it stalled again when I slowed down to stop or make a turn. 2 days later, I brought to mechanic and it worked fine.
    In August it rained and same thing , I left it at mechanic for 5 days and when he got to look at it there was nothing wrong. He said codes were fine and did a pressure test as I had water pump replaced in June. He said next time it happens come back. .
    Friday it rained really hard but I did not drive the car. Saturday same thing happened but this time I could feel it not running right. I pulled over and it stalled. When it stalls, it just shuts off. The only time a light ever came on was Saturday and it came on just once, TRAC lite but only once.
    Brought it to mechanic today, Monday. He put scanner and got a miscommunication signal. If he cannot figure it out by pulling and looking at wires. He said go to another guy in the next town who is good with electrical problems. It does not have the TCC torque converter to pull off. .
    Anyone have something like this. I have searched the web and found nothing like this. It does not happen all the time after it rains as it rained a lot in the summer. I would bet by Wednesday 5 days later the car will be fine until it happens again.
  • iovofcwaiovofcwa Member Posts: 1
    Ok, It's a 5-speed manual and when I turn on the accessories, no dash lights turn on, windows won't work, and the car won't even try to turn over at all. Yet the headlights are fine, the horn is fine, and so are the locks, etc. Now I was fiddling with the windows and locks when the dash lights worked again, it also again started. Now it keeps doing this, and even fiddling the windows and locks won't do it anymore (only worked 2x anyway). It's obviously some electrical problem, but I have no idea where to begin. I have checked the fuses and it seems all fine. Please help me, or get me on the right path to fixing this.
  • m1cr0dv8m1cr0dv8 Member Posts: 1
    THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR. Mounted on the throttle shaft of the carburetor or throttle body, the throttle position Sensor (TPS) changes resistance as the throttle opens and closes. The computer uses this information to monitor engine load, acceleration, deceleration and when the engine is at idle or wide open throttle. The sensor's signal is used by the PCM to enrich the fuel mixture during acceleration, and to retard and advance ignition timing.

    Throttle Position Sensor Strategies: Many TPS sensors require an initial voltage adjustment when installed. This adjustment is critical for accurate operation. On some engines, a separate idle switch and/or wide open throttle (WOT) switch may also be used. Driveability symptoms due to a bad TPS can be similar to those caused by a bad MAP sensor: The engine will run without this input, but it will run poorly.
  • 55peahuller55peahuller Member Posts: 2
    This is probably a little late. I just joined in the forum. I had a 91 cavalier that started giving me problems with no dash or radio. If the key was not in the correct position, back to RUN mode. This happened. I now have a 94 cavalier with 238K miles on it and I had to change the key switch. Then the other day the car would start and immediately die. Thought it was the key switch again. It turned out to be the electrical part of the ignition switch(the part that the key switch connects to). Much cheaper than the key part of the switch.

    Just to check it out. After getting access to the ignition switch, I disconnected the switch from the key switch and just used a screw driver in the electrical switch and tried to start the car. Had same problem, thus eliminating the the key part of the system.

    Changed the electrical part of the ignition switch, and that was my problem.
    Hope that helps.
  • mckeesliamckeeslia Member Posts: 7
    Hello i had same problem but in a 1190 chevy, my advice an same problem was the torgue converter an speed sensor, soooooo about 260.00 buks good luck
    mckeeslia@aol.com :);)
  • brianbobrianbo Member Posts: 6
    Mechanic found open IAC harness 5 days ago. Spliced into it but car still died (stalled) on decel and stopping. Went back and then he relaced IAC motor. Left garage and drove 1/2 mile stalled on decel and at stop sign. Immediately went back to shop and everything checks out OK . I am $500 bucks into it now.
    Mechanic said might be computer which he is said is unusual on GM He said the computer drivers might be bad for IAC unit. Since I got the IAC motor, I drove it 70 miles and died one when I was rolling (2-5 mph). Then drove it 20 miles and died at a red light and then taking a turn. The 20 mile drive home it did not die. It is running better but still dies.
    Mechanic does not know what it is. I will call tomorrow. He was going to check it GM changed calibrations on it.
    I doubt a computer driver would be bad only when it is stopping or going at a low.
    spreed.
  • mckeesliamckeeslia Member Posts: 7
    Hello There.
    I have a 1990 chevy Caviler. Ive had numerous things done to it cause it was given to me an i really had no funds to gets another car, so i keep putting little sums of cash, which i have an to get another car i'd need a lump sum an, not able too.
    Soooo here the problem, I got car in 2007, i put in new brakes, solenoid, torque converter, gaskets, a flush, new transmission, new fuel pump, speed sensor. Im at wits end.

    The car must be driven up to 5 to 10 miles before car starts acting up. Then i feel a release of some sort in my gas foot peddle leg, an about 3 to 10miles later car starts sputtering an then it chugs out, then i must wait a gd 10 to 20 minutes before starting back up.

    Please any one knowing anything please help!!!

    :mad: :mad: :mad:

    Mckeeslia@aol.com
  • brianbobrianbo Member Posts: 6
    Called mechanic and no return call.
    They fixed IAC motor and open in harness.
    It has shut off a couple times when stopping since the fix. I put in fuel injector cleaner with a full tank of gas on Monday.
    It ran fine then the car started hestitating and stopped pulling into my driveway. Tuesday it ran fine all day for 50 miles.
    Wednesday after 20 miles, car started hestitating and stopped a few times and it always has started up. When I go out, I bet it will work.
    Any ideas?
  • mckeesliamckeeslia Member Posts: 7
    WOW, Hello there, I have same problem, today car is at tom clark cheverlot, in Pittsburgh, im going nuts. Im 1500 .00 into it, an it stills stalls an i have a 1990. I hate this. Today the man cant find anything wrong with it either it wont staqll for him, only meeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! CraP Gd luck if i hear something ill tell u, u here something tell me, ok?

    mckeeslia@aol.com
  • brianbobrianbo Member Posts: 6
    Sounds Good, mckeeslia .
    When I drove it at lunch 2 hours after it hesitated the first time, the car started to hestitate and then it died like 5 times in 5 minutes. I drove it back to work and called the garage. Of course 30 minutes later, I drive home by the garage and do circles around the garage for 30 minutes and it does not stall. If it stalled, I was going to have them scan it as it usually will stall a few times after the first time.
    The garage is giving me a loaner for 2 days and the mechanic is going to take it home and see if it happens. He will have a scanner hooked up to it when he drives it to his house.
    In the Sunfire forum, someone said the dealer would give you a scanner and when it happens then you hit a button to get the error code. I asked the garage and they said no but they are not a dealer. You might want to ask the dealer for a scanner to use or try asking another dealer.
    Does anyone think I should buy a scanner at autozone 40-60 bucks to see if I can get an error code when it happens ?
  • brianbobrianbo Member Posts: 6
    Hopefully, it is fixed.
    The garage who I never went to before found an open in IAC harness and then replaced the IAC motor. When he replaced the IAC motor, it died 1 mile down the street and he spent 45 minutes looking at it last Friday at 5:00 pm but everything seemed normal as we could not recreate the stall on his scanner. He said he likes challenges.
    Yesterday before I dropped my car off, I drove around for 20 minutes and it stalled in front of his door. He immediately came out as he knew the stalling was sporadic. I was there for 1 hour and he gave me a loaner to use for the day.
    Long story short, he found 2 ground wires that had corroded and he replaced them. He even put the old IAC motor back but it had unstable readings so he put the new one back. He said the 2 open grounds probably caused the IAC motor to burn out.
    It is running differentlry than in the last month as there seems to be more power.
    The cost for 3 hours of his time and a loaner car was $0. There are some good guys out. As I said before, my regular mechanic referred me to him.
    Find a good mechanic.and forget the dealer. His guys are GM certified .
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