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Not quite true, Ford owns a controlling share of Mazda, I believe its 33%.
Twice in 11K miles does not sound too bad to me. If you are concerned, you might want to document each time it happens with as much detailed information as you can get. For example, was the car cold or wet? Were there any squealing or other sounds coming from the engine? When it is finally running does the problem go away? Ideally, you want the mechanic to be able to reproduce the problem and if that's not possible to give enough of an idea of the symptoms of the problem to narrow down the search. You could also ask for a diagnostic test to see if it turns anything up.
anyone else having these issues or any ideas?? I have driven manual transmissions for many years and have never had this happen!!
I had previously owned three Hondas, two Civics and an Accord, all of which I drove over $125k with no problems whatsoever. The Civics were both manuals and I never had to replace the clutches.
I presume the manufacturer/dealer with tell me I don't know how to drive a stick, and that will piss me off. If that's the case, why did my starter already fail this month too (that's under warrantee)? Was I failing to turn the key properly as well?
Bapi
as for your starter i'm sure the warranty will cover that. i have not had any other issues with my car besides the clutch..except for a broken motor mount that was replaced for free...
I love it, your mazda clutch goes only 50K mi and you turn it into a way to bash the US manufacturers. I have owned 4 american cars with manuals, never replaced a clutch on any of them. These cars had 110K to 150K on them when I got rid of them.
However, the life of a clutch is very dependent on where and how you drive. Obviously a lot of stop and go traffic means more wear as does resting your left foot on the clutch pedal.
I do know the 3 is still made entirely in japen i'm just surprised that they would do such a crappy job on the clutch assembly on such a hot car at the moment...having my clutch go out @ 34,000 miles is ridiculous... :mad:
Corporate customer service has not been helpful at all, stringing me out before finalizing their rejection of my warrantee request, today, two weeks after the car was taken in for service.
I filed a report with the Better Business Bureau today (case #1364515) and will be contacting the attorney general soon.
My previous 3 cars have all been Hondas, two Civics and an Accord, the Civics both manuals. I drove all of them in excess of 125k with no transmission/clutch problems whatsoever. I haven't changed my driving habits or home address in ten years.
My Mazda is a poor imitation of a Honda. My Honda dealer, who actually helped me pick out my Mazda at the dealer next door, based on economics only, is interested in helping me get out of it now.
I own a 2004 Mazda3 4dr with triptronic transmission and around 150K on it. Since yesterday, I am getting a strange problem in the car. When I put the car from "parking" to "reverse", the car gives a big jolt. And an "AT" code shows up on the screen. I check the manual book and "AT" relates to transmision axle issues.
I took it to a local mechanic and he said probably the transmission needs to be rebuilt and cost would be around $2000 CAD. I already have spent around 1200 CAD this month on the car and I am broke with this new trouble.
$500 on winter tires
$400 on back struts
$300 on rotors and brake pad change.
I tried to look in google, and came to this site/thread where the user posted the exact problem but nobody really gave the correct answer to the issue:
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f120721/0
I would appreciate if you guys think that this is a transmission issue and if there's any alternative like where can i get a used transmission etc???? I still drive the car to work (100kms) everyday and the mechanic said it should not cause any issue but what do you guys think as I am a bit worried driving it on the highway everyday.Though the car gives no trouble at all except that initial jolt when you start the car.
Thanks
Before forking out $2K I'd get a second opinion from a Mazda dealer. Being in Canada at this time of year, a drop in temperature may be contributing to your shift problems. My 2002 Mazda Protege5 acts differently in the cold. Try warming the car a little bit more before driving. Also, consider having the transmission fluid changed if you have not done so recently.
I searched google for "what is torque inverter", ""change torque inverter" etc but did not got any helpful links.
Thanks Again!!!
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Sounds like the engine which starts out cold and calms down as it warms up. I wonder if the airflow to the engine or if your ignition system is the source of the problem. You might want to consider a fuel system cleaning or getting a diagnostic.
p.s. not all gas caps are the same so make sure to check before you buying the new one
I checked underneath the car; no leads, drips, drools, and pools of fluid. There is no visible damage to anything. All fluid levels are normal and don't smell burnt, and are clear.
What could this be?
Hey there;
My '06 just started doing the exact same thing! Put it in reverse and it starts this vibration, but only in reverse. Did you get an answer or resolve the issue? I have called one dealership and they did not have an answer for me, I will call mine tomorrow when they get in for the day. If you could give me some ideas as to what you have tried it may save me some trouble, that would be nice.
Thanks.
I know this is a lengthy forum. If anybody has this similar issue, please share and give me advise. I really don't think Mazda is telling me the truth about my car.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Thanks for your time
The predecessor to the Mazda3, the Protege, had similar symptoms due to a dirty EGR valve. You may want to check it out.
Dont laugh at me because i know NOTHING about cars but any advice would be great. My mazda 3 seems to be at a higher RPM than it should be at times. For example going down the freeway @ 110km/h its usually doing about 3500RPM. seems a bit high to me however it could be normal? just used to a different car that does not seem to sit at such a high RPM in 5th gear. theres probably nothing wong other than my lack of car knowledge LOL! but hey you never learn without asking even the stupid questions. any words of reassurance would be great.
Yes, 3,500 RPMs does sound a bit high. As a point of reference, my 2009 Mazda3 i 5-Speed (manual) turns about 3,050 RPMs at 112 KPH.
Best regards,
Shipo
I've the same probleme with my typotronic mazda3 2004 (107000km)the reverse gives a big jolt and the "AT"code shows up on the screen.
have you resolved the probleme? how to go about fixing this...?
thanks
Sounds like you need to take the car for a checkup at your local garage.
p.s. Mazda does not have a tiptronic, that's VW. Did you mean automatic transmission (AT)?
FYI, 2004 Mazda 3 Hatchback does have an alternate tiptronic shift
The idea of it NOT shifting into 5th as a fail-safe is illogical! Driving in 4th at highway speeds will put a lot more strain on the engine (running at higher rpm). I have a 2006 Mazda3 2.3L/5-speed manual and live in Atlanta. It gets close to 100F often during late summer and I've never had anything like this happen.
In addition to talking to others on this forum, I'd also suggest Mazda3Forums.com. There are a lot of helpful folks on that site including some Mazda service techs.