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Yeah with new cars unless you beat the snot out of them they should easily last that long. the clutch in my Rex is slipping a bit but it has over 190K miles on it! :surprise:
No one is more surprised than I am and I haven't been easy on it. Mazda is a Ford in some ways and maybe it's a Ford Clutch? Maybe it was weak when they installed it at the factory? it's just a mechanical part that can wear out. Interestingly enough they make it tough and expensive to replace the clutch. You should have easily gotten 100K miles if you drove it normally but the good thing is you now have a new clutch and THAT should have a warranty on it as well. I'm considering a Mazdaspeed 3 myself and i wonder with all that torque going through the front wheels just how hard it will be on the clutch.
Top Gear was driving Mini's with 300HP in them and they felt that was the limit of the car.
Keep the car and see how it works out with the new clutch as it should last a very long time, if not raise a big stink at the dealership! Be very loud and vocal especially in the sales area. Don't let them get you into an office where no one can see/hear you.
This puts pressure on them to actually try and fix the problem.
It's not stupid; how would you know?
I didn't know that automatics can roll back when in drive (I thought they were supposed to catch themselves after just a tad rollback)
Some do, some don't. It depends on the car and the transmission. Whatever you do, DON'T hold the car with just the throttle; doing so could damage the automatic. Use the brake.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
when caught at a light or stop sign. Should work fine for AT also I would guess.
I purchased my 2004 Mazda 3s new. The clutch and flywheel went out at 14,000. Mazda refused to provide a warranty repair as they said that there was only a 12,000 mile warranty on the clutch, although the overall car warranty was 50,000. They said that is was driver abuse and that they had never seen one shredded and burned like that. However, that also sounds a lot like other postings.
I was very tempted to get rid of the car, but couldn't find anything comparable that seemed to be of otherwise high quality and fun to drive. However, the new clutch went out at 70,000. I then had a mechanic friend replace it and fortunately only the clutch was gone this time. But, there were two round grooves worn into the plate. My mechanic suggested that perhaps something had broken off inside to wear the grooves.
Needless to say, I'm definitely not keen on keeping it too much longer before I have to put in a 3rd clutch!
Does anyone have any suggestions for an alternative car to consider? I liked the size, interior quality and the fact that I could lay down the back seats and lay my road bike down inside.
Thanks in advance for any help
Repair >$ 2000. Mazda customer support position: Normal wear and tear and the warranty expired. This will be the last Mazda I purchase.
OTHER PEOPLE WHO ARE PLANNING TO BUY NEED to know! Something went teribbly wrong with the quality of Mazda. I used to love & trust Mazda,...not any more. Period!
Zlatan
A few questions:
1. Does your car have a manual or automatic transmission?
2. Did you buy your car new at a Mazda dealership?
3. Was the car regularly serviced at a Mazda dealership?
4. Does "authorized service" refer to the dealership and/or the manufacturer?
5. Did you consider a complaint to a consumer body, BBB or legal action?
2. yes
3. yeah, even last year a transmission fluid was changed per Mazda service recommendation
4. "authorized service"..I meant an official authorized mazda service department.
5. not yet but I am planning, I was pissed off with Mazda Customer representative-support, who said wear-tear problem.
Since this a relatively New Mazda model & transmission concept, the question is how many people are experiencing the similar problem.
A few more questions for you:
How many times was your tranny fluid changed?
At what mileages?
Did your Mazda dealership advise you of other transmission services that you were required to perform?
My understanding is that automatics are not as durable as manuals and urban driving with lots of stop and go traffic can be hard on the vehicle but failure at 70,000 miles under normal driving conditions seems premature. You may want to get a more complete explanation from Mazda about what they think was the cause of the failure. You may also want to consider having Mazda provide a compromise solution to have the repair done at a reduced cost (e.g. they pay for a reconditioned transmission). They need to hear that their reputation is at stake and that your future cars will not be Mazdas unless you are satisfied. Put everything in writing so that you have a record for future reference.
Going the BBB or legal route can be trying, lengthy and costly but if you have the stamina go for it.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Actually, that is only partially true as Ford owns a portion (I believe it's 1/3) of Mazda. In addition to Jaguar, the Ford family includes Volvo, Land Rover and of course Mercury. Also, this is a changing story as Ford needs to divest itself of some of the money-losing brands in order to recover its equilibrium. The collaboration between Mazda and Ford goes back over 50 years but the philosophies of the different manufacturers, their engines and their components are not identical.
If there is a known problem with ford line of vehicles, MAZDA is sure to have it too
Again, that is only partially true. For example, the Mazda6 six cylinder is a Ford engine but the turbo Mazdaspeed3 is unique and not a Ford-based engine. You are right in that many car manufacturers are looking to build a global car under different names and badges but that is easier said than done. For example, you'll likely not see the "global" Ford Mondeo riding down your street. But the astute will have spotted it in the latest version of Casino Royale. Not quite the Aston Martin but very nice in any case.
DO EXTENSIVE RESEARCH
Agreed.
Did you have to pay for any of these repairs? What year is your Mazda3?
Browsing a few internet message boards is an extremely inaccurate way to ascertain the overall reliability of a particular make/model. The Consumer Reports reliability rankings are also flawed, but I have found them to be considerably more useful than reading than reading the rants of a few unhappy owners on a particular web forum. In my experience I would rank the reliability of the vehicles you mentioned as follows:
1. Corolla
2. Mazda 3
3. Jetta
4. Cobalt
I'd also say that there is only a slight difference between the reliability of the Toyota and the Mazda. Also remember that a good dealer makes a big difference in your overall satisfaction with a vehicle.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
I HAVE HAD NUMEROUS PROBLEMS IN DEALING
WITH FORD DEALERSHIPS & FORD CORPORATION
WHO SEEM TO NOT CARE WHAT THEIR DEALERSHIPS
ARE DOING. AFTER TALKING TO VARIOUS PEOPLE, THE
NEXT TIME I HAVE A PROBLEM WITH EITHER OF THEM,
I WILL LOOK REAL HARD INTO SUING THEM IN SMALL
CLAIMS COURT OR POSSIBLY GETTING AN ATTORNEY
ON IT. FORD SERVICE JUST FLAT OUT LIES TO ME &
I TRY TO BE NICE BUT IT DOES NOT SEEM TO MATTER.
EVEN IF THIS IS NOT YOUR FAULT, BE PREPARED FOR
WHAT LAME STORY THEY MAY TRY TO COME UP WITH
OR HOW THEY CLAIM TO HAVE NO PRIOR KNOWLEDGE
OF THIS PROBLEM WHATSOEVER.
What do I need to do??
Did you purchase this at the dealership? Is this a Mazda product?
The dealership said if they tried to file the claim that it would be rejected right off because it is over 75k... no special circumstances accepted. Told me to call the warranty co. myself to file claim. Tried that... they want a receipt for the injector cleaner I bought while out of town before they will even start the process.. I originally thought it was the injectors and that's why I didn't take it to the dealership right away.
I just went out to the dealership and they gave me an estimate of $3500!!!!... Is that reasonable?
For what exactly? A new transmission?
The dealership said if they tried to file the claim that it would be rejected right off because it is over 75k... no special circumstances accepted.
Considering that you were over a few hundred miles I would find this hard to swallow. I would document the problem in writing and send the letter to the dealership, the insurer and the Mazda USA. My position would be that the coverage was bought in good faith, and the fact that the incident occurred through no fault of yours so close to the end of the coverage leaves you troubled by this so called "extended" warranty. You may be able to get a portion of the money to pay for the repair of the transmission. Do you have any legal friends?
My dad just called me and said he found someone put a new transmission in parts & labor - $1800 so we're going to pick the car up now... The dealership shouldn't charge me just for looking at it should they??
Today they told me it could be my fuel lines needing to be flushed, but when I informed the guy I've been having this problem since I first got the car he said it could just be a "characteristic" of the car.
Has anyone else had this problem? Or do you know what it could be? Thanks!
Did they document the problem on a workorder?
Did they run any tests on the car or just give it a visual review?
I would consider a second opinion (like another Mazda dealer). I would write a letter describing your concern to Mazda documenting the problem and copy it to the dealership. You are still well within the warranty period, but it would be wise to have a record of the problem and Mazda's response in case the problem escalates.
Any ideas?
Another thing I notice, which isn't a big deal, is when I am in second and maybe third sometimes, the stick will shake as I am accelerating. The stick usually doesn't shake at all, so it's a little unnerving, but it doesn't seem to have any effect.
Also, it seems to me that the K&N filter I put in last month has given me a little better low end oomph, so my starts are smoother and it doesn't bog down when the revs drop in a higher gear.
Also I've recently noticed that when I am accelerating the car seems to hesitate. When this happens I am not shifting gears but am simply giving the engine more gas in whatever gear I'm in, e.g. 4th or 5th.
Has anyone else experienced these problems? And does anyone know the causes? I have not yet had the car serviced but thought I'd ask the questions to get a heads up before I take the car in for servicing.
We will hopefully have this resolved soon and if so I will post the response here.
If you know what is wrong, please give me a heads up.
That's the most retarded thing I have ever heard in my life.. "Hey lets design a car that you have to put in 2nd gear to get it to go into reverse" --- Yeah I'm sure that's what happened...
Someone told me a trick: turn the steering wheel either left or right - it doesn't matter, then shift into reverse. Don't know why, but it works every time!
Actually, that is a way to save your clutch. That is what you are supposed to do. The dealer told you right. I used to own a Ford Ranger Manual and when I replaced my clutch, my mechanic told me whenever I put it in reverse, you should put it in 2nd. That will save your clutch from having to replace it sooner than needed. I never had an issue with my clutch after that.
Now as to the respect issue, I can't answer to that. He probably had a bad day.
Best of luck
Why would you drive it knowing you introduced the wrong fluid?
Two. You should know that car manufacturers are very pointy went it comes to lubricant. Using other type than the one recommended is a no no IMO.
That said, I hope nothing is broke. Good luck!
Everything was great with my Maxda until approx 60k kms. The transmission wouldn't shift from 2nd to 3rd without the rev counter going nuts and eventually I couldn't get it past 3rd gear.
I took it to Mazda and they told me to my amazement that it needed a new transmission. So I thought ok, I guess it happens now and again.
At 76k kms it did the same thing so it lasted for 16k kms this time.
My Mazda Dealer was very non-chalent about it and when I expressed concern that my 100k Warranty would soon expire and if the transmission went again I would have to pay for a new one, he told me not to be so negative and that my case was unusual as they had very few transmission problems and to have to need 2 new ones by the 76k kms mark had never happened before and that the chances of getting another defective transmission is slim to none.
So not sure what to do. Thought I would try Customer Service for Mazda and try and get them to agree to extend the warranty for the transmission only. (That's what VW did for my Jetta). I am open to suggestions.
Mazda have lost a future customer though.
anyone out there having similar issues? Any year of Mazda? Help - don't want to be screwed over with a faulty transmission that they think because I'm a woman I don't know what I'm talking about - that is certainly how this has been going. First they agreed it was a problem they'd like to check out, and now apparently it is a "feature" of the car I didn't know about??? :confuse: :lemon:
Please elaborate. How exactly do you get it to remain in 2nd vs drop down to 1st?
If I am reading your post properly your Mazda3 is an automatic with a manual mode and the situation occurs when you use the manual and not the automatic mode. True?