Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Ford Fusion/Mercury Milan Maintenance & Repair

2

Comments

  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    You need to read more. It's not 1990 anymore and the Fusion has better reliability than the Camry. This was an isolated incident (as you can tell by the small size of this forum). The Fusion has been rock solid as have all of the new Fords.
  • berriberri Member Posts: 10,165
    We'll see as more of them hit 60K and up. I hope you're right but D3 have a mixed record at higher mileage and the Fusion hasn't been out that long. Taurus has only been average, Explorer below average. I'm concerned about their constant cost cutting impact on their parts durability. You screw the vendors, they'll make their money some way or fold. In any event, the buyout price is still way high for an 06. He can get a new Fusion for just a few grand more than they want for him to keep the current car and a Camry for another few grand. Not sure how depreciation will play out and which will cost less over time.
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    That's a loaded V6 model - you can't buy a new one anywhere close to that price. The OP even said a comparable used model with same mileage is $14,500. So $13K is not a bad price.

    I've driven several Ford products past 60K with no problems at all. This isn't 1990.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,204
    not sure what model you have, but i have an SEL. it has a black plastic triangle shaped piece with a tweeter in it just above the door panel.
    i grabbed it by the top of the triangle and in just pulled away from the door.
    didn't pull it completely away from the door, my mirror is still ok :), but give it a try before you try taking off the whole inside door panel.
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,204
    let me see if i have this right, you had your car for three years and have 20k miles on it.
    there is A post on the site you linked to that this could cause damage long term.
    some things to consider:
    search the web for a ford factory extended warranty. select lots of years, low mileage. 7/75 or something like that. some dealers sell these online.
    i you get to the point where you want to keep the car, negotiate with the finance person on the warranty, using the web quote.
    is the cost of the warrany worth the money for how long you expect to keep the car?
    i'm not sure why you bought new tires already.
    considering you gas mileage, it sounds like a lot of stop and go/city driving,
    if you don't keep the car, get a 4 cyl next time.
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • berriberri Member Posts: 10,165
    That's a loaded V6 model - you can't buy a new one anywhere close to that price. The OP even said a comparable used model with same mileage is $14,500. So $13K is not a bad price.

    Maybe at a Ford dealer, but I think if he was trading he'd have a hard time getting $13K. It's 3 years old and despite the low miles, most 3 year old cars lose over half their value. I've driven both the V6 and 4 versions of the Fusion. The original 3.0L V6 doesn't give you that much of a performance edge over a 4 cyl Camry or Accord. The 4cyl is noticeably worse and despite its smaller size it delivers worse mileage than the Camcord. I trust that Ford is speaking the truth when it says the 2010 models will give better performance and mileage because I'd welcome some real competition from Detroit for a change. With all the deals and low financing out there, I think the guy is making a mistake spending that much on a 3 year old common sedan.

    PS - D3 quality lags are much more recent than 1990 unfortunately, although CR does give the Fusion high marks, but it is an exception on D3 - 3 year reliability.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,204
    so, what do you drive?
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • berriberri Member Posts: 10,165
    Used to drive Ford and GM, but too many problems moved me over to Honda and Toyota. Get lots of different ones as rentals though. But honestly, I wouldn't buy a 3 year old camcord either for the difference ratio to new cars today. Plus, slow business means even lousier trades right now. If he wants a Fusion or Milan, I'd go new, longer term I think he'll make out better.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,204
    how long ago did you own a ford or gm?
    show some pride in your stuff on carspace.
    mine is out there. :P
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • johnwnyjohnwny Member Posts: 7
    Hi all, Is the current DOHC V6 in the Fusion the same DOHC V6 that the 97-99 Taurus had in them? I have that engine in my 98 Taurus and it's got 140,000 and still going strong. What new changes are going into the 2010 Fusion that are differant than the current Fusions? Thanks.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    I see no one has answered your question and you posted in January. If you are still around, yes the 3.0 DOHC in the current Fusion is the same engine as the DOHC Taurus, but with some tweaks, such as increased HP and torque, probably other modifications as well, and it is linked to a 6 speed transmission rather than the 4 speed when it was in Taurus. I have this engine in my 2000 Taurus now at 79k miles and it has been a great engine. For that matter, the car as a whole has been excellent.
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    They added variable cam timing to that engine in the 2000 Lincoln LS version which I don't think was on the Taurus version and that's what was used in the 06-09 Fusions - more or less. For 2010 the 3.0L got a lot of updates resulting in more power while keeping the same fuel economy - and it was upgraded to be flex-fuel capable. The 2010 Fusion also offers the new 3.5L Duratec V6.
  • jj48jj48 Member Posts: 1
    I HAVE 2007 FORD FUSION WITH A POPING SOUND IN IT DEALER CAN NOT FIND IT THEY HAVE HAD THE CAR FOR OVER A MONTH ANYBODY HAVE ANY IDEALS OUT THERE JJ48
  • stephen987stephen987 Member Posts: 1,994
    Don't yell, please. We have lots of ideals. When does it pope?
  • loveusanotjapnloveusanotjapn Member Posts: 2
    I would take it to another dealership for service.They are not all the same.You could just need a minor linkage adjustment,but I wouldn't wait too long you could ruin a gear. Good luck
  • loveusanotjapnloveusanotjapn Member Posts: 2
    Read your warranty.I believe all Fords have a bumper to bumper 36000/three year or better warranty.
    Good luck
  • ktmaiktmai Member Posts: 1
    My 2006 Fusion sounds like it is having the exact same problem. What year is your Fusion?

    Any updates on what you found out? And/or price of the clutch. My dealer quoted me $1200 and I thought they were just trying to rip me off because I'm a female/college-student.
  • Mountainman80Mountainman80 Member Posts: 3
    The clutch was around that amount to fix each time. Actually ended up having two clutches and an engine put into this car. The engine was under warranty, but after having it replaced, I decided I wanted a car that can actually be driven, instead of sitting in a mechanic's workshop. So I ditched the car.

    My advice to you - get the clutch fixed, then trade it in. Not worth the hassle.
  • lazzolazzo Member Posts: 8
    My new Fusion is making a gurgling noise when I press down on the accelerator.
    This always happens when the car is just started (cold), but occaisonally happens under normal conditions. I took it to a dealer and of course the car was warmed up and they could find nothing wrong. They tested the pressure as well and said it was fine. I guess my next option would be to leave the car at the dealer for a while so they can hear the noise when cold.

    I did find this post online which sounds very similar:
    http://www.justanswer.com/questions/2q7xp-2010-ford-fusion-makes-gurgling-sound-- when-accelerating-can

    Anyone else have this "noise?" Any ideas what it could be?
  • xmechxmech Member Posts: 90
    "They tested the pressure as well and said it was fine. "

    What pressure?

    I've seen similar issue on another forum, and they suspect air in the coolant system, and you're hearing it gurgle in the heater core. Forgot if a flush helped, search some other Ford Fusion forums and I think you'll find it. I'll post back if I see it again and have the time.
  • lazzolazzo Member Posts: 8
    "What pressure?"

    Pressure check to see if there was a leak in the coolant system. They said there was not. Let me know what you find.
    I've seen a number of forums but no solutions.
  • xmechxmech Member Posts: 90
    Hope I'm not breaking any forum rules here, but there is this thread:

    http://www.fordfusionforum.com/index.php?/topic/3085-2010-fusion-sloshing-sound-- - when-first-driven/

    Unfortunately it appears they don't have a solution yet. I guess it's one you've seen already?
  • lazzolazzo Member Posts: 8
    xmech,

    Yes, that fordfusionforum sums it up nicely. That is the exact problem I am having.
    Is there a way to contact Ford to let them know we are having this issue?
    Or is bringing it to the dealer for service good enough?
  • xmechxmech Member Posts: 90
    I'm pretty sure there is a place in Ford you can contact, and the info should be in one of the manuals you got with the car, but I haven't dealt with anything like that before. I've read of other people going this route, but I haven't ever had any issues nearly bad enough to require this. You may have to have repeated unsatisfactory dealer visits before they would step in and do anything. I'm not having this gurgling issue. Had the slow crank/no start issue, and the dealer did the TSB, no problem. Good luck, and I hope there is a solid solution soon.
  • 68jcode_stang68jcode_stang Member Posts: 5
    I was the one who started the thread in Fordfusionforum discussing the problem. I would take the car to the dealer and reference the forum comments and solutions so far that haven't worked. The most recent one today discusses the placement of the coolant supply lines to the heater core. Interestingly enough, and I verified it, you can't order a replacement core because that part has been recalled!

    The more people with this problem who take their 2010 Fusions with this problem to the dealer, the more Ford will be ready to fix it. Remember the old adage....the squeaky gear gets the grease.
  • lazzolazzo Member Posts: 8
    68jode,

    If the 2010 Fusion's Heater Core has been recalled why haven't we received any word from Ford on replacing it? Is this something that just takes time?

    My tech told me that Service Bulletins only come out once a quarter. So perhaps this recall will hit the streets in early March?

    Yes, I have been following FordFusionForum.com daily. My dealer only wants to "burp" the air out like already has been tried and failed, as you guys proved.
    Frustrating!
  • bud42bud42 Member Posts: 2
    Is this only a 4 cyl problem or does it also apply to the V6? Does anyone know?
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    The gurgling is limited to the 2.5L engines.

    There was no RECALL on the heater cores. It's an extended warranty in case a problem occurs. It's not a safety issue.
  • clusterbusterclusterbuster Member Posts: 24
    Any one out there ever re-indexed their Fusion AWD drive shaft to eliminate the vibration. Mine vibrates at between 50-65 mph. I do my own mechanical work, but don't know how much Ford recommends to index it. If the indexing don't work , then I will have to put the up-dated drive shaft in it. Thanks if you can help.
  • newowner10newowner10 Member Posts: 227
    edited April 2010
    I just purchased a 2010 SEL 3.0 Liter Fusion. I have the maintenance schedule and the owners manual. I do not see basic information like how to change the oil or the cabin air-filter. I see how to check the oil level and things like that but not how to perform normal user maintenance items. Is there a separate book I should also have received? Is this information available on-line? Hyundai had an on-line manual that was like the dealers service manual. . My Nissan I purchased a CD with the dealer type information on Ebay for $20 also. I do not need this much information. I need to know what to torque the oil filter and drain plug to and normal owner type information. Is there a book available with the user maintenance information? How close would the 2009 be? I see these CD's for less than $20.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,204
    if you have a vibration all the time, maybe it is a tire?
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • koho955koho955 Member Posts: 97
    I've had my 2010 Fusion since November (4,000 miles). Anytime I would open the hood, the engine was quiet and all I heard was that nice quiet ticking sound that engines make these days. That all changed after my first oil change. Now I can barely hear the ticking sound because the engine has a very load grumbling idle. I hear this loud engine idle at a stoplights over the radio. If I turn off the radio and the heat/air system the noise is just plain loud.
    Maybe a loose belt? Any ideas out there???
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Check the air intake and air filter housing. Also check for loose or missing caps. It could also be the exhaust but that would be a coincidence having nothing to do with the service.
  • inkieinkie Member Posts: 281
    edited April 2010
    Just came home with a 2010 SE and started to check the car out. Was surprised to see the bottom of the engine all covered up. Just curious, where is the oil plug and filter? I too, am surprised their is not much info in the manual on basic maintenance. Although Fords manual does not list any place I can get a shop manual, I will try Helm and hopefully they will have one. :confuse: :confuse: .
  • newowner10newowner10 Member Posts: 227
    I experienced the same think. No information in the owners manual for normal maintenance. I purchased a DVD on E-Bay for $25
  • inkieinkie Member Posts: 281
    I will answer my own query to post 85. Second day I have car opened hood to check fluid levels and I saw the oil filter [non-permissible content removed]"y. Its at the bottom of the engine in the front center. You can't miss it because its a large screw on filter. You have to remove the bottom cover to get at it and I am sure the oil plug is somewhere nearby.
  • cannon3cannon3 Member Posts: 296
    Spread the word. The cause of this air bag light coming on may be caused by a battery issue. I found this information on the internet when mine started coming on this last week. The dealer tested by cranking power and it was way down. This will cause weird fault codes. Changed the battery and its fine now.
  • andy1050andy1050 Member Posts: 2
    edited November 2010
    For those of you who DO change your own oil and filter, this can be of interest.

    I've "done my own" for the past 30 years or so. Saves time and money for me, and also have seen too many mistakes when someone else changes my oil...even for such a basic automotive procedure by factory service or independents.

    Relating to the 2.5, 4-cyl engine (2010 model Milan):

    On the Mercury Milan (probably the Fusion clone, too) the oil filter and oil drain
    plug are under the car and covered by plastic/composite sheeting for aerodynamic
    purposes, I imagine. Each cover has an embossed label on it, easy to see. The oil
    filter access cover is forward and secured by five (5) hex screws. One, 10-mm and
    four, 7-mm screws. Time consuming, even if crawling under an elevated front-end.
    It is a somewhat rectangular cover. The filter is the standard spin on, spin off type, and suggest using a cap wrench fitting on it. When dropping the filter, a lot of oil
    will spill down, onto your hand if not careful. Beware when oil is HOT! Wear neoprene gloves. Hot 5w20 oil looks/feels water-thin and it splashes.

    Oil drain plug is about 14" rearward of the filter opening. The a plastic covering is
    secured by one, 7-mm hex screw and a tab insert, opposite This is a round shaped plastic cover.

    The oil drain plug has a 13-mm hex fitting, and it is mounted horizontally and oil
    empties vigorously to the rear of the car. The 5w20 oil flows straight out, even when
    cold, from the drain plug location at the rear-side of the engine oil pan. So, guard against over-run of your oil catch pan(s) carefully, maybe use a funnel type
    of shield to avoid oil splash. Or, use two pans...one for filter spillage and one for the
    drain hole "forceful pee-out" on the backside of the engine oil pan.

    So, the self-oil change drill is a bit more complex than in most cars. Take notes on
    how this is done so you have your own guide for the next time (that's my best method for remembering).

    GM cars are now starting to put oil filter access top-side, just as they did in the
    early 50's. Smart move. Easy, compared to the under-car filter drop that always
    spills oil down your hand.

    For your 4-cyl. Milan or Fusion:

    Topside on the engine, oil fill and dip-stick check are fairly standard. The dip-stick
    does have a notch that must be fitted when securing and it's easy to overlook this.
    Look for this notch on the stick neck, just below the round finger-pull (yellow).

    If overlooked, the stick will fit about 1/2" high (not fully seated) and a small amount
    of oil will spray out at speed, over time. Yes, that 5w20 oil flows like water when hot or even just warm. Check this to avoid a small oil-slick coating in your engine
    compartment.

    Oil filters in major brands for this car (like Motorcraft and Fram) are readily available and cheaper compared to most types. Also, Motorcraft (Ford Motor Brand) 5w20 synthetic blend oil is available at Wal Mart and comparatively reasonable, too.
    Sold in red, 5-quart containers.

    Now you are set. Just plan for a little extra time when doing the oil change and filter yourself (mainly due to the cover removals and care with the drain plug gush).

    Andy.
  • xmechxmech Member Posts: 90
    Thanks for the info Andy1050. It's nice to know something about what to expect for even this kind of job before starting.
  • podpod Member Posts: 176
    I have an I4 2010 Milan which so far has greatly exceeded my high expectations in all regards. I am a stickler (some would say-obsessed) for a quiet ride and that is one of the reasons I chose Milan over Fusion. I beleive the Mercs have more noise quieting features. This is in no way a complaint but when I hear noises I go on a mission to track them down. Some unexpected sources of minor noise that I have discovered:
    1) rear bumper plastic cover. This is remarkably loosely attached to the bumper at the bottom. It is of course concave in its contour and if you just pull back on it and let it snap back it is noisy (to me). I imagine at high speed it acts like a sail and with change in direction (whether road or wind) it could cause noise. I intend to anchor and foam fill it to alleviate the problem (real or not).
    2) I am a golfer and love the big trunk. While fiddling about the trunk I discovered a metal divot repair tool that had fallen into the right sided aperture that houses the jack, funnel and other paraphenalia. The rear of this space has no insulation or carpeting (there is a carpeted flap on top but things can fall through as the divot tool did. The surface is not flat and it was contributing a rattle at certain speeds. There is a similar carpeted flap on the left rear floor of the trunk. Look in there for fallen objects before you look elsewhere. I may stick some padding in there for good measure.
    3) the dealer license plate holders were a rattle source desite the attachment screws being tight. A foam shim solved that problem. Be sure to use four screws to fasten the plate since some of the holders allow the plate to rattle in the wind.
    4) It is now a wonderfully quiet car (it was good as delivered but these fine tunings have further pleased my sound sensitive ears). There remains one intermittent very low frequency "moaning" that is not speed sensitive or rpm sensitive which has thusfar eluded my search. I note that there are many shields on the underside of the engine and the chassis but since I do not have a lift I haven't been able to properly scrutinize them as a possible source. I do not have AWD. It sounds like a tire noise (in frequency) but is not. It does not seem sensitive to road surface type. It has me baffled (no pun intended).

    A great car. I also love that you can turn off all the inside dash and door lights while night driving. Dark and quiet--that's my preference.

    If there are any other noise knuckleheads like me who have discovered minor noise sources please share in this forum.
  • spammers2hellspammers2hell Member Posts: 7
    I've got the 6 and am hearing the same noise. Dealer couldn't find the root cause because it only happens when the engine starts up from below 35 or so. I bought the car in April, but didn't start hearing the gurgling sounds until late November. Still no TSB :( No leaks seen.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    I purchased a 2010 Mercury Milan in early January of this year. I am generally satisfied with this car except with the transmission.

    When it is cold, it shifts harshly for the first few miles and then settles down. I have made a comment to the dealer and they have told me it is due to the fact that the trans fluid is a non-synthetic. That kind of makes sense.

    At 15K miles, I am going to change over to a straight synthetic trans fluid from Amsoil that meets the specs.
  • rav4manrav4man Member Posts: 21
    2007 Merc Milan Premier. Perfect car no noise
  • rav4manrav4man Member Posts: 21
    I bought this black beauty certified 42,000 Ford used $13,000 a year ago, the ford lots were full of them coming off 2 year leases. Has the heated tan/chocolate leather heated seats.
    I have noticed many of my male buddies ogling over this thing, they seem to be zeroing in this same car, either Fusion or Milan. cruises smooth on the highway at 28 mpg.
    Best used car out there, fusions and Milans, you can't go wrong.
    Never embassed to pull up to someones house driving American, I would last about 2 days
    staring at a Hyundi or Kia sign stuck on the steering wheel but that is just me.
  • podpod Member Posts: 176
    My 2010 Milan has the 17" wheel package with the painted hubcap covers. I had assumed that they were alloys or aluminum since the base model comes with 16" aluminum wheels but if I put a magnet on the inner rim (behind the plastic cover) it sticks. It wouldn't make sense to cover an alloy wheel with a plastic cover. Does this confirm my suspicion that they are steel wheels? What are the advantages of alloy over steel with respect to unsprung weight affecting handling or road noise?
    akirby, I know you are out there and know the answer. Thanks.
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    The order guide says the 7 spoke wheel is aluminum but the 5 spoke doesn't say either way so I assume it's steel.
  • podpod Member Posts: 176
    Thank you akirby. On reading I was surprised to find that for many OEM rims the aluminum rims are not significantly lighter than the steel. Some are as many as 5 pounds lighter but most are only a few tenths of a pound lighter. Apparently the explanations include: (1) the steel rims have stock removed (as large oval holes, etc.) in places which do not compromise their strength, and (2) the aluminum rims are not always 100% aluminum and donot have relief holes as part of their structure. I cannot locate the weight of the Fusion rims but would be interested if anyonwe has that arcane data. Since the steel rims are less likely to deform with a curb encounter (and lose the bead), in the end the steel may be preferable. I presume the Ford engineers made the decision that the steel 17" rims did not significantly compromise handling (via the unsprung weight load, etc.). I trust Ford engineers to be smarter than I am. I do intend to obtain a set of alloy rims with Continental 205/60/16 extreme winter tires (on CL for $250 total with only 6000 miles on them) as my winter option here in New England. Can't beat that price and who knows when big snow will visit the area between December and March. The OEM steel rims and the alloys are high offset 5 lug x 114.3 mm so the fit should be excellent. Beyond these specifications I don't think there are any other fitment considerations but would welcome an education if that is not the case.
  • podpod Member Posts: 176
    For any others who want to know:

    replacement rims for 2010 Milan

    offset=44mm
    hub bore diameter=67.1mm

    A different offset will affect how far the outer surface of the wheel/tire comination stands out further than or is further in than the OEM rims. The OEM have a 44mm offset.

    A center hub bore of 67.1mm will fit snugly (the size of the OEMs); larger bores will fit with centering rings; smaller bore hubs will not fit unless widened on a lathe which sounds like quite a nuisance and expense.
  • podpod Member Posts: 176
    I acquired a set of aluminum 16" rims with good snow tires (205/60/16) mounted on them and intend to use them this winter. How will the lack of the TPM sensor affect the dashboard display? Will the TPM logo light continuously? I do not intend to retrofit compatible TPM sensors to the snowtires unless that is necessary. I can ignore the lit logo but will the computer control system have an issue with this? Does the TPM system interact with the engine controls in any way to limit speed if it senses a low pressure situation? Will a TPM signal that is ignored eventually be recorded as a warranty violation with respect to maintenance, etc.
  • buchster1buchster1 Member Posts: 1
    My temp guage goes to HOT when i am traveling in long hilly regions while going up hill,but back to normal going down hill. it is a 2008 Mercury Milan with only 29,000 miles,and this is 4th time i have had it back in to garage. They replaced thermostate once then replaced Temp. sensor,but did it again . Back in garage now and have had it for 9 days now & have not come up with a reason. Have been trying to find out about the Lemon Law for it here in Ohio. Thanks for any help.
Sign In or Register to comment.