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If a wrong key or the cylinder lock is tampered with, the fuel system is disabled. It also states 'remember to release the key from START as soon as the engine starts'.
(i still have a feeling that possibly the starter solenoid (sp?) or something in the start circuit is causing the starter to stay engaged too long. I believe that this will enact the passlock.) HCoombs
I've been following the thread since then. I've seen posts to the effect that it's the door module on the driver's side and bad grounds, but I really don't think that is the issue. When I started having the problem, I found a few posts on the net with a bunch of silly stuff people were hearing from their dealers. Things like running both more than one window at the same time was "the" problem, yada, yada.
Basically a lot of folks were saying that their dealer had "never heard of the problem before", yet I found several posts of the exact same symptoms. I found if I removed the door module connector and plugged it back in, everything would be fine for a few days. My dealer said that was absolutely crazy, at best it was resetting something in my BCM that 'fixed' the problem temporarily. My dealer said, "Never saw this problem before, and whatever you read on those internet posts are garbage..." The said the BCM tested bad, that would fix the problem for sure... and the problem happened the next day, truck wouldn't start, wouldn't turn over, dead battery. So they took it back in, farted around with it again and said the two and a half year old battery was the problem and... "Oh by they way, there was a service bulletin on your fuse block, which yours was burned... and we replaced that for free!"
Uh-huh.
That was about two years ago and I haven't have a problem with it again. Here's what I assumed happened. There is some defect in the fuseblock that fried the BCM, battery and possibly the heater blower motor. The day after they got done 'testing' all the stuff the blower resistor fried as well, "just coinincidence" according to them, (fried the very NEXT day???). So I think this improperly designed fuse block shorts out and causes all kinds of electrical problems with the truck. Since I had it replaced, (and all stuff that mysteriously fried in the space of about a week), I haven't had a problem since.
Well, except for the head replacement because of the soft valve seats. Luckily they covered that with no issues and the truck has been running ok since. I have 99K miles on it and it's a 2005. One other weird thing, I don't tow much or often, but I've had the U-Joints in the drivetrain go bad. I replaced one set a year ago and they're sounding like their going again, a metalic 'clink' like a pipe rattling every now and then. I'm still getting about 20MPG with the truck, which is why I bought it, but I'll tell ya, this is the last time I "buy American" until these bailout buddies start building reliable vehicles or honestly start backing them once again.
I rented a Trailblazer for a week while out of State, same kit setup with phone, radio and batteries charging from my inverter, this vehicle is pretty much the same as the Colorado but has a voltmeter in it showing 14V at idle in the rental place.
So I'm watching this thing and by day three, the engine is starting to idle up and down and the voltmeter is showing about 12V at idle, but no engine light yet... which means all my kit is drawing more wattage than the alternator is making at idle and the battery is now sweating the load... so I quit plugging in my laptop during idle and, 24 hours later, idle is normal.
I get home and back in my Colorado, which still has the engine light on and idles between 500 and 700 every two seconds all day. I plug everything but my laptop in and a couple of days later, the idle levels out at 700 and the light goes out! That was several days ago.
The engine light came back on briefly the other night when I was idling with my headlights on for two hours, but then went out on the way home.
My belt is squeeling when it gets wet. I think this means I need a new belt? Or it means the alternator is so fried it's creating too much friction...
Either way, if I want to power my laptop in my truck for more than ten minutes, I have to get a much bigger alternator installed. One that will output 100A+ at idle.
On another note, I pulled the resistor pack for the blower in the passenger footwell and, wouldn't you know it, the connector on the red wire is all burned and melted. I think there's a Technical Oops Sheet on that so I might find a Chevy dealer who will fix it. JFYI, with the resistor pack disconnected, the blower still works on 4 and the heater, inside/outside button and A/C all work fine.
My 2005 Colorado just turned 80K and now runs like a dream again. :shades:
I chose to eliminate the battery box & vent hose and select a larger & stronger battery more suited for truck use. I installed a Costco/Kirkland #4 battery which is rated @ 1,000CA & 850CCA. This battery also has a 36Mo/100Mo warrantee & only costs $80.00. The battery is snug but fits into the available space, cables, and the stock battery retainer system.
The bottom line is that EVERYTHING works better especially the engine which has never run this sweet. I suspect the combination of a minimal battery and a low capacity alternator result in excessive voltage drop and thus high amperage draws everywhere. My next step will be an alternator upgrade. This is a cheap way to stop buying electric parts. I also expect to see an improvement mileage & may get to 30mpg yet!
Russ
On the previous post (#216) I neglected to provide the actual battery identification. It is a 850CCA, GROUP65, Costco item #12866, $80.00, & also called a fitment #4. The width is a really tight fit in the stock retainers & I'm not sure that other brands of group 65 batteries will fit the same. Also late models of Canyon & Colorado both 4 & 5 Cyl have upgraded from 100A to 125A alternators which will probably be an easy & worthwhile conversion on the older trucks.
Russ
and then yesterday i got in my truck, put both windows down, and drove about 5 miles. when i parked and tried to put the passenger side window up it didn't budge and so i waited hoping it was just the same problem as the drivers side window but nope... it wouldn't move. so i had someone pull up on it while i pressed the button and it went up just fine, then it worked fine for about 5 minutes then got stuck again. i don't know what is going on. but this morning it worked fine again for a couple seconds then just froze up again. i can hear it click on the passenger side door like it receiving the power its just not moving. ive been reading a lot of posts with people having electrical problems, i don't know if i should hope its electrical or the motors are going out. i don't know which is cheaper. any response is welcome.
First incident was this: after shopping came out to my trucks wipers going and when I unlocked the door, the blower was on inside. This while the keys were in my pocket. Dealer replaced the BCM. Under warranty.
Fine for 30,000 miles.
Next problem: Go out to the truck, nothing works. Try to start, only thing that came on was the service engine icon on the instrument cluster. Nothing else. Dealer replaced the BCM again. $700 bucks gone.
3 weeks later,
Driving the truck, filled up gas. Blower on while the keys in my pocket. While driving the truck to the dealer, the wipers turn on then stop mid way, the horn honks twice, the instrument cluster goes completely black then displays the odometer reading as 999999. Blower does not work, locks work, but when you shift out of park or drive it used to lock and unlock the doors, it does not do that anymore. Replaced the BCM again. They are going to replace the instrument cluster once they get it in. So far the dealers techs are dumbfounded on how this is going.
Any other ideas?
I am going to ask them to look at the fuse block. Just seems to be a lot of electrical issues with this thing.
Seems as likely an explanation as any you'll get from the Dealership. :lemon:
Mine went out once under warranty and now it has apparently gone out again. Several things that it controls no longer work like fog lights, door lights, door lock from remote only, cargo light, etc. Got the schematic and traced it back to the BCM... ouch. No warranty this time so I'd like to do it myself.
It's easy to get to - 5 minute job as far as physically doing it but I don't know if there is any programming needed and I don't know where to get it or what the part number would be. I couldn't find it on rockauto or the gm parts site. My truck is the LS with power door locks and windows, etc. and I only seen the one without all of the power options... The one listed on amazon.com is about $138 but I don't know the correct part number for mine so I'm not sure it will work.
Any advice out there?
Thanks,
Dennis
Thanks for the tip but it didn't work in my case but I can see where it would be important to do. As in your case, there was paint under the ground terminal. Of course, paint is an insulator and you really don't want a ground to insulated.
Anyhow, because I have so many things that are not working I highly suspect the BCM. I stopped in at the local Chevrolet dealer yesterday and asked them what the cost would be and their answer was $265 plus tax plus installation labor plus programming fees plus shop towels plus EPA fluids fees plus etc, etc, etc. Might be able to get out the door at about $1000.
I was there at the dealer to have the front end aligned and tires rotated and they said I was number 3 inline and that I would have to leave their building because I wasn't allowed to hang around in their waiting room but one hour max. Must be a new government regulation now that GM is owned by US. If I was made of money I would have set the car on fire right there in their lot - I was so mad. I bite my tongue because they said they'd have their courtesy car take me back to work. Guess what - after an hour and a half I had to call someone from work to come and get me because their courtesy person never showed up. I'm expecting the call from the FBI right now about being in their waiting room over an hour.
IS THIS THE REASON WHY MOST PEOPLE BUY FOREIGN?????
Sorry... I still need an answer to my original question if anyone knows... what is the correct part number for my BCM and where can I get it programmed?
Thanks.
I still have an Air Bag light on after startup. :confuse:
Later
I did an internet search, and found a Delphi alternator supplier on the west coast that provided me with a new 125A delphi alternator for $150. This included a smaller OD drive pulley, which will speed up the RPM of the alternator, and boost output at slower speeds, which I see a lot of, when the roads are snowy and slippery.
I did the swap-out last weekend, and it was by no means a picnic. I have the 5 cyl. engine, and everything is "shoehorned" into place, there's VERY little room to work. I purchased a Haynes repair manual, which said to remove the lower inner fender panel for fastener access, and the engine lift bracket, to allow the alternator to come out. HAH!!!!!
I wound up disconnecting the fuel supply/return lines, removing the battery and battery box, as well as loosening and slightly lifting the main fuse box in the LH fender well. Then it was a series of twists and contortions, before I was able to remove the unit. However, it allowed me to see all of the corrosion that had developed on the electrical connections over 4 years of driving in a damp, winter environment. A little Scotch-Brite cleaned everything up, and some dielectric grease on the connections will hopefully keep me trucking!
I found a write-up in the CorvetteForum that explained where to source the relays, as well as how to replace them. I took the circuit board out of my Corvette's door and replaced the one bad relay, as the driver's door wouldn't lock from the fob's signal. After replacing it, I was good for a few weeks, until one of the other relays failed, and now it won't unlock from the fob.
That was last summer, and I hate to admit it, but I just haven't had the time to take the door apart again, and get in there again. It's annoying, bu not a show-stopper.....
Thanks for the tip but I've already removed the board in the door and replaced both relays. It didn't get better or worse - stayed the same. I have the schematic so I looked for the signal from BCM to the relay board in the door but the signal never gets to the board to tell the door to unlock. For instance, when you press the key fob unlock button, the lights flash and the door should unlock but that unlock signal never gets to the board in the door to tell it to unlock. When I press the switch in the door to unlock the doors it all works perfectly.
I'm missing other signals from the BCM too. My fog lamps don't work and I checked the relay under the hood and it is not getting the turn on signal from the BCM. My lights in the cab won't turn on when the doors open - again, missing signal from the BCM. Removing the key should unlock the doors - again BCM. The bed light won't work - missing signal from BCM. My radio looses time too, randomly. That one is hard to trace because it could be the BCM or the radio itself. It has done that since new but the dealer wouldn't fix it because they couldn't duplicate it.
As far as I can tell, the BCM and the A/C fan resistor assembly and harness are very weak points on this vehicle. My BCM was replaced once under warranty as was a lot of other things. It would be easy to say that I should have bought a foreign vehicle but I would have paid over $10K more for the same thing and I couldn't justify it. Even if I have to pay some out of pocket expenses, I've still not come close to paying the extra $10,000. Besides, it's really fun to drive and gets good gas mileage for a truck. By the way, why $10K? Because I used GM bucks and got lots of discounts that Toyota wouldn't even talk to me about.
Cheers.
Doesn't matter if using driver side control of passenger control. If window is
pulled up or pushed down, it works for a while and then stops again. Took
door panel off and lubed moving parts and window channels. No help. Anyone
with same problem?
I am a single mom of 3 & I have no clue!
I have not done any kind of maintenance other that Oil Changes (when the light comes on).
Now...I know my vehicle & it just doesnt seem ok.
The gears are not catching on right!
WHAT SHOULD I DO! HELP!
Remember..iTS NEVER HAD NOTHING REPLACED OTHER THAN OIL!!
Thank You SOOO much! :confuse:
Things to consider:
1. Is the vehicle spending more than 5% of the time driving on unpaved roads? This can slosh a 'wet battery' around and mess it up. Standard car batteries are designed for flat surfaces, slow corners, easy driving. Is the vehicle being stored in freezing conditions? This is also an issue for standard batteries.
2. Is the vehicle charging the battery adequately? You can test this easily by turning the engine on and putting a $10 Tester on Vdc across the terminals of the battery. You should be seeing 13.8V or higher at idle, which will rise to 14.3V or more at 1500rpm.
3. Run the vehicle around for 10 miles and then turn it off. Check the Vdc across the battery again and, if it's below 12V, The battery is acting a resistor and will be getting hot as the alternator attempts to force charge into it. Buy a 'Gel battery' or even a 'Dry battery', they cost a little more but they are plenty powerful and handle adverse conditions much better.
Make sure the idle speed is about 650 for the i5 engine. if not, the first thing to do is get a $3 can of "Gumout" Throttle Body cleaner (do not use anything else), remove the ari hose between the filter box and the vacuum box, you should be able to look through the vacuum box and see the throttle plate. Spray it liberally all over for a count of three, turn the engine over (you may have to replace the air hose because of the MAF sensor) then spray it again. Refit the hose. Fire it up and you should see a noticeably improvement at idle and under acceleration. This has a direct effect on the charging system as the alternator output at idle may be too low at 500rpm.
Good luck!
Have you solved this problem? I am having the same issue. Looking at wiring schematics, there is a gray wire that is spliced off the gray drivers door wire, and it splits off to the remaining 3 locks. I'm wondering if there is something wrong with this connection. Otherwise it is probably the BCM and replacing doesn't appear to be cheap, and I have no clue if it needs to be reprogrammed or not, because replacing it would be easy enough. I could be out to lunch, I can't say I've done much with the wiring of a truck!
Not sure if you got your part number, but I believe it is GM PART # 25779767. I don't believe you need to program it, but am not sure and would like to know that myself. I can send you a link to a form were a number of people have bought and replaced it.