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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • jdwoodjdwood Member Posts: 2
    No, I have the turn wheel all the way down as low as it can go so that the lights inside the vehicle would be dim and so that the interior light isn't clicked on. The reason why I think it has something to do with the doors is since the DIC on the truck has the DOORS message displayed however all the doors are securely shut. I shut the dome light off manually last night by hitting the manually dome override button on the truck but that only keeps the light off its not helping get rid of the message on the DIC, and since it thinks the doors are open it wants to keep the interior light on.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    You could take off the neg. cable on the Battery for a minute or two and see if this resets everything.
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Member Posts: 593
    I had the same problem occur about 4 years ago, with my '05 Canyon. The light switch, located at the bottom of the door jamb, has gone bad, causing the lights to stay on, and the computer to think the door is open. Replace the switch and you'll be OK.
  • duncan95duncan95 Member Posts: 6
    Not sure if this will help, but....
    I had to slam on the breaks 'cause of an idiot in a van3 years ago. All of a sudden my 05 was running rough and backfiring. Got warning notice on dash. OnStar said ok to drive but to take right to dealer. Dealear did a diag and there was a problem with the device that adjusts the valve timing. The computer changes valve timing on the fly I think. They changed it and my gas milage went UP!! I was getting 14/19. Now, and this is NO BULL.... I'm getting 17 - 18 in town and 24 to 25 on the open road. Drove to Fla from NJ and back twice. Even running at 75 mph I was seeing 23 mph. I"m happy - Oh, it's the I-5 engine.
  • pipelayerpipelayer Member Posts: 1
    2006 colorado i have same problem as message 248 of 257 when this was happening pull light switch back and dash liights will come back on i am thinking bad switch
  • mobys_colorodomobys_colorodo Member Posts: 1
    I have an 04 crew cab with the exact same passenger door problem. If you bang on the inside of the door or pull on the glass it will work. Any help is appreciated! I hate to buy a new window motor and find I still have the problem
  • 03DGCOwner03DGCOwner Member Posts: 6
    I just changed the original battery in my 04 Colorado and now the driver side window does not work. The passenger side window and all door locks still work. Quite odd. I will scream if the window motor went out because of a battery change. I did hear sounds (like motors moving) when I connected the new battery. Anyone else had this problem? I am going to try to disconnect and reconnect the battery later.
  • zipyz28zipyz28 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2004 colorado crew cab with the same problem with the locks and drivers window. On dec 26th I decided time for a new battery and which I replaced and that's when this problem started. Could this problem come from just disconnecting the terminals?
    Well thanks to HopeGMC it's working again. I took it apart and looked at everything and things looked OK so I tapped the relay and put everything back togather and wow it worked. A GMC/ Chevy repair......
    My hats off to HopeGMC thanks alot. What is the BCM and TSB. Just for reference I might need later. Thanks again... ZIPY

    Hope this helps. This was a year ago for me. the relay is like a small aluminum block on the circuit board. Also spray the connectors when putting back togather. Go back and read this on page 15-16-17.
  • tyrod_emmonstyrod_emmons Member Posts: 2
    well i dont know i if you have fixed this problem yet but i have had my 04 do the same thing all the others work but not the drivers window, after a lot of trial and error i got aggrevated took the posotive cable off the battery and left it for about two hours and like a miracle it worked again, since then i have had to unhook the battery several time to put in upgrades and little trick (stereo, amp, speakers,etc) and everytime the wondow stops working, so i will unook the hot cable for about 2 hours and pretty as you please it will work again, if you have this problem again try this, from what you described i about 95% sure this will fix your problem. good luck
  • casolo1012casolo1012 Member Posts: 1
    I also am having the same issue..I had to put the brakes on pretty hard a few days ago and now the engine is running very rough. This has happened before but it worked itself out..but recently it has gotten worse and will not work itself out. Having it towed today to get looked at.
  • 03DGCOwner03DGCOwner Member Posts: 6
    I removed and tapped the PWR/WNDW relay from the box in front of the battery, which I am assuming is the relay you are talking about. If not, let me know. Sprayed and replaced and no change. Thanks for the input. I'll try anything that sounds like it has a chance. Next, I am going to try disconnecting the positive cable for a couple hours as tyrod is suggesting below.
    Thanks Again!
  • 03DGCOwner03DGCOwner Member Posts: 6
    Tyrod-
    Thanks for the input, but this didn't work for me either. I left it disconnected overnight and reconnected it in the morning. No change. No driver side window or lock. The passenger side window will still operate from the driver side, but nothing else. Other thoughts?
  • flacondoflacondo Member Posts: 9
    Please refer to my previous postings #197 and #208. This is a very common problem with Chevrolet Colorados. Hopefully, these will help.
  • deweesdewees Member Posts: 2
    The clicking when you turn may be that the fluid in the pumpkin needs replaced with a synthetic. I had that happen and they replaced the fluid with the synthetic and it stopped immediately.
    Battery needs replaced. I just went through the same exact thing. New battery, New day to drive!!
  • AlennxAlennx Member Posts: 20
    If the passenger side works from the driver side then the only thing it can be is a broken window button or disconnected/broken wire to the button in the passenger door.

    You have power to the door and the winder because it works from the driver side. Using the passenger button doesn't work, therefore... the passenger side is not completing the circuit. Rip it open and check the wires. Replace the button even if you can make a test circuit, it might not be enough to move the winder. Careful cos the winder pulls some juice :)

    Colorado's seem to have been undersized in the loom causing melted wires and shorts all over, dead blowers, winders, blownout stereo lights, ugly wife... you name it. ;)
  • 03DGCOwner03DGCOwner Member Posts: 6
    Oddly, my passenger side window works from both sides. Neither of the door lock buttons work. The drivers side window does not work. Even more odd, I found another issue today. My keyless entry remote will not lock the doors, but it thinks they are locked. A passenger got in the passenger side through an unlocked "locked" door. The truck thought they were locked, but they weren't So, the alarm goes off. Luckily I was able to "lock" it again with the keyless entry and "unlock" it to shut the alarm off. What's next? Oh... The "Battery" warning started coming on again today. Nice..... :sick:
  • AlennxAlennx Member Posts: 20
    Always buy American... oh you did. Hmmm.

    The differential for this diagnosis is:
    1. The windows are not on the same circuit as the locks.
    2. The driver's side window circuit is not completing. First, place an axe in the footwell near the pedals in full view of the driver's door. Now check the window fuses, you may have one for each side. Carefully remove the driver's door inside panel and wiggle the wires from the driver's side window button in both directions while operating the button. Look for melting, scorching, breaks, water damage, etc. The axe will act as a form of incentive for the vehicle to be helpful.
    3. Your keyless entry doesn't sense the position of the locks (it would be German if it did that) but instead it simply knows that you pressed the "lock" button on the remote, so it armed the entry-sensor. Check the fuse for the power-locks and the signal wire from the remote-sensor to the lock-popper.
    4. Why is it cheaper than Honda or Toyota? "Because it's a Chevy" :lemon:
    5. To be fair, I've crashed my '05 Colorado twice and all it needed was realignment and a new front bumper I changed out myself.
  • tchunter2010tchunter2010 Member Posts: 5
    Yepper: 2004 Colorado ex -cab , Drivers door window stuck in down position and drivers side power door locks do not work. Key less entry does not work. Passenger side window works from both sides. I guess I am the last one this is happening too. 2010 Jan , 13th . Unreal Local G.M dealership never heard of this problem. Just called them . No help at all. $81.00 an hour to check it out. Took door panel apart , wires look good. Took control panel apart ; looks o.k as well. No burnt wires. Unhooked battery now and waiting a few hours before I hook them back up. I don't think it will cure it but I must try. I do the the terminals touching to discharge BCM . Fan motor sometimes doesn't work in alll positions all of the time . I must wiggle the knob. Are there any real fixes to this B.S yet? :(
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Member Posts: 593
    "Dewees", it's my understanding that the Canyon/Colorados come from from the factory with synthetic oil already in them. I usually change the diff oil in my vehicles about a year after I get them, and when I checked what the owner's manual said, it called out synthetic lube. Therefore, I assume that's what's already in there....
  • snaproll1snaproll1 Member Posts: 88
    Well, I had the same issue a couple years ago. I'm not sure if you went through all the old posts but here's an update.

    It's a common problem with these Colorados and Canyons. The FOB and driver's window stops working and the battery goes dead. The dealer replaced my BCM (Body Control Module) for a few hundred that did nothing. They also "mentioned" there was a service bulletin on the fuse block which had scorch marks. They found out the battery was shot too. During their testing they stressed the blower resistor which fried the next day. All told, about $800 in repairs.

    Since then (summer 2007) everything has worked fine, no more issues. The bottom line, this is what it looks like. There is some problem with the fuse block. I don't know if it is poorly designed, but my guess is it fries for some reason. Possibly too much of a load on the powerpoints, poor grounding ( read that earlier in these threads) or I've also read the alternator is too animic. I get the impression that the electrical system of the truck is not up to snuff and for whatever reason, the fuse block fries and takes the other stuff (BCM, battery etc) with it.

    Replace the fuse block (which was covered by Chevy) and everything, at least on my truck has been ok. My rub is that it seems logical that the fuse block fried the other stuff, but Chevy wouldn't cover the other expenses. I will never buy another Chevy product even if, through Obama I'm now a "part owner" after their bankruptcy. Personally I would have let them burn. They obviously make crappy products and don't stand behind them. The dealer was pretty good about it, but it's interesting that Chevy still takes the line of "never seen this before" given all the activity in this thread.

    Other issues to watch out for are the tail light sockets are poorly designed and over time need to have the prongs bend back to make contact. I have a fog light I have to rap on in order to get it to work. The cable for it is so short it's virtually impossible to turn it to get it out of the socket. I replaced it, but it has the same problem. The solution is I have to have the lights on, get out of the truck and rap on the light and it will work... for a while.

    Also don't forget about the head needing to be replaced. If you don't know about this one, definitely do some searching on it. There is a problem in the 2004-06's where the valve seats weren't hardened enough and the cylinders go flat on compression. The entire head needs to be replaced. This one Chevy does cover to 100K miles, but expect about three weeks of down time. They usually have to pull the motor because the timing chain slips and they need to reset it. There is a tool to hold it, but it usually doesn't work. If it's not covered under the warrantee, it's about a $3500 fix.

    I'll say after that one summer of hell with the truck, everything has been working pretty well. I have 120K miles on it, but I live in fear of when I'll have the "other stuff", the instrument panel, the lighting etc starts to fail on it.
  • slyermanslyerman Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 GMC Canyon, I'm hoping someone might have had this problem and learned how to fix it. the lock on my drivers side door will not lock, I checked all the fuses, all were good. The other 3 doors lock manuelly and with the fob. I've tried locking the door by pushing the lock but that didn't work!
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Member Posts: 593
    When you say, "Pushing the lock", do you mean the power door lock button, or the manual locking button? If it won't lock in the "power" mode, I'd suspect a shorted door lock switch. If it won't lock "manually", as well as in the "power" mode, I'd assume the rod from the door handle to the lock mechanism has become unattached.
  • sicksigmasicksigma Member Posts: 2
    All companies eventually go bankrupt. Including Toyota.
  • tchunter2010tchunter2010 Member Posts: 5
    If you back way up and read all of these post, you will see that is Just one of the problems with the door locks and windows. I too can NOT lock my door or open my window with the door panel electrics. So no drivers window at all. I can use the passengers side and operate it from drivers side too. Plus the Heater fan is going weird too. If you read back a bunch you'll see { we all have this problem} there is no real fix yet. Just guesses. My Mechanic told me it was the Drivers side, power door lock /window power panel. Over $100.00 It's not for sure because some of the floks have done that and no fix yet. Chevy should stick this truck up there [non-permissible content removed]. No More for me. I'll fix some how and unload it.
  • AlennxAlennx Member Posts: 20
    Good to see, those are the EPA fuel ratings for this vehicle.

    My 05 Crew LS just went through the 100k and she's pulling strong, half the dash lights are out and I put her into a concrete retaining wall covered in snow at 40mph, just needed a new bumper. Hard to break and cheap to run :shades:

    I had some rough engine issues that affected every system in the vehicle. I bought a $3 spray can of Gumout Throttle Body Cleaner and sprayed the plate. Fixed it immediately and she's running nice.
  • jim365jim365 Member Posts: 1
    Bought my 2004 Colorado new in Kentucky. Battery check light always came on in winter weather below 32 degrees but the battery lasted 5 years no other problems... love the truck. When the battery went low, the drivers side window quite working and the FOB as well. It does set the alarm but no locks will work. When you hit the lock or unlock the parking and rear lights blink indicating it got the signal.

    Always garaged now and should be less problems occur.

    Comes Jan 8, 2010, battery just 5 days shy of one year old and...... the drivers side windows doesn't work (all others do), FOB won't lock doors but does blink lights and set the alarm.
    - no battery check light, battery seems okay
    -checked all fuse and relays, appear okay.

    I just got on the internet and found this common problem others have had and I'm anxious to try the control module fix (seems like the most common thread solution) and look for the any bare wires or door / harness interferrences.

    A.S. I did have another electrical issue and that was with the cruise control working erratically. Found out the dealer didn't really have any ideas except the $95 per hour diagnosis path and admitted if it is intermittent they probably would find it. I mentioned that they had a recal for an emergency / brake light issue in 2007 and they left these parts under on the floor (below the steering column). They ignored that.

    So I crawled under and found they cut wire clamps off many wires to do their replacement work and left the cruise control wire next to a sharp edged bracket on the steering wheel.... yes it cut into the wire and was intermittently shorting out. Wrapped the wire, but foam between the wires and bracket and clamped them (the way a professional repair should be). All has been fine for over a year.

    Bottom line the wiring and control don't seem to take much vibration, and or voltage variation before they start causing issue. Why isn't GM aware of this???
  • boilermaker06boilermaker06 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2005 Colorado Quad Cab 4x4 Z71 with 65,000 miles on it. I noticed several days ago that the right turn signal was coming and going which made me figure that the bulb was on its way out. Well today after I started it up and took off the cluster displayed ABS Fault, the right turn signal blinked like it was out, the MPH gauge was bouncing all over the place, and the truck was acting like it didn't want to shift. Also, when braking I noticed that the turn signals light up for just a second. This problem came and went on my way home so I have scheduled an appointment with the dealer for tomorrow, but I thought that I would see what you all thought. Thanks for the help out.
  • 03DGCOwner03DGCOwner Member Posts: 6
    I took mine to a trusted shop, finally after coming to terms that I couldn't fix it. They hooked up the diagnostic tool and everything was triggering in the switches, the power just wasn't making it to the motor. They pulled out all the fuses, did everything their online source said to do. Nothing. Basically, they trust another local dealer who hadn't heard of the problem and they said a reset of the PCM (maybe BCM, but they said PCM) may take care of it. If that didn't do it, the module attached to the drivers door lock was the next in line for replacement. I drove home, pondering the next move. The next day I went on a business trip and when I returned, I went to open the door and it was locked! What? My doors don't lock. I get in and start driving away. Sure enough, the window now works too. Not sure how long this will last, but its odd. I'm guessing the motions the shop went through triggered something to work again after the truck sat overnight.
  • flacondoflacondo Member Posts: 9
    I had the exact same problem with my 2004 Colorado. When the truck sat in the sun for awhile the windows and door locks started working. When the temperature cooled, they would stop again. Like you, everything was checked, without a solution. Finally, I replaced the driver's side master door lock/window switch assembly and all problems were permanently fixed. It's interesting how this is a common problem, but none of the Chevrolet dealers "have ever heard of it"....lol
  • canyon08canyon08 Member Posts: 14
    I recentley bought an 08 canyon: when I apply the brake pedal my left signal comes on.. if I'm turning left with signal on and touch brake it speeds up but when I get the wife to drive it around the yard all lights appear to work as normal, just weird on the dash??After reading all these posts on window, fuse block etc I'm getting a little nervous, any help? thanks
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Hello,
    I am from GM Customer Service. Can you please email me at socialmedia@gm.com with more details? Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • boilermaker06boilermaker06 Member Posts: 4
    turkeyhunter,
    I posted message #280, but never went to the dealer as I said I was going to because my nearest GM Dealer wouldn't provide me with a loner car that my GM Certified literature says they must because it is still under the warranty. I digress... Since the first incident I haven't had any trouble with the MPH gauge, but evertime I brake whichever turn signal I have on either goes completely away or blinks as if it is burnt out. It is never the same on either side it just depends on how the truck is feeling at that particular turn. Just like your problem the actual lights work, but it is the indication inside the cab that is wrong. I'll keep you posted if I hear anything and you do the same as well. Thanks and have a good one!
  • canyon08canyon08 Member Posts: 14
    I ended up taking the left rear light assembly off, found a loose bulb, tightened the prongs, bulb back in, fixed!! While I was there I snugged up all bulbs on both sides, hopfully this problem is over.. try and let me know if it works for you.. good luck!
  • kitsapkatkitsapkat Member Posts: 1
    About 4 weeks ago the Passlock came on. Didn't go away but didn't affect the truck any either. A week later the SRS indication came on. I read on the boards about a broken wire in the drivers side 1/2 door and sure enough I found it. I took it it to the shop and they replaced the wiring in the 1/2 door and that fixed the SRS indication. But I still had the Passlock indication. With exception of the indication the truck started and ran great. Two days ago I turned the the ignition over and nothing happened. No starter no cranking no nothing. I could just hear the relays clicking. I turned the key back and forth several times and it started. It took several back and forths before it started so I could leave work. I thought it would never start this morning so I could take it to the shop. They had it for a few hours and said it was the Body Control Module. This sounded right, the BCM has many things running through it. Does anyone know if the Passlock goes through the BCM?
  • cwmcclary_911cwmcclary_911 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2004 Colorado Ext Cab and have been noticing some very strange things about the truck. About a month or so ago I noticed that when the a/c was on it was not blowing cold air, I took it to a family member who works on cars for a living and he checked the fuse box and said that the fuse wasn't pushed all the way in, he pushed it down and the cold air blew....no problem. Since then on several occassions I have shut the truck off and had the keys on the counter in the house and would walk outside and the alarm would be blaring and the truck radio would be blasting....I would open the door and the alarm and radio would cut off and everything would be normal again. It has done it twice this night and I have cranked the truck and cut the radio completely off and left the truck unlocked. Does anyone know what this issue may be and about how much the repairs would be? Thanks for your help!!!
  • id8251id8251 Member Posts: 4
    My heater/AC fan has quit working. I have other intermittent electrical problems in the past. On occasion it will turn itself back on again. Any ideas?
  • mfatmanmfatman Member Posts: 1
    The dealer thinks I'm losing my mind. On occasion when I start my truck (04 Colorado Crew) the ignition will roll on even after releasing the switch. When this occurs the truck will not start. I have to wait about 10 minutes before it will start again. I took it to the dealer twice now with no luck, they say they can't find anything wrong.
    What can you suggest is happening? I'm getting frustrated, theres only 68,000 on the O.D. and I have an Ext. warranty.
  • id8251id8251 Member Posts: 4
    My hvac fan has quit working on all speeds. I have checked the resistor, wireing harnes and they are both fine. Checked the grounding block under the hood & it is fine. Hooked a ground to the wireing harnes that goes to the resistor & the fan will blow then. All parts seem to be fine. Could I have a bad hvac controller?
  • keith62keith62 Member Posts: 5
    I have a similar problem with my '06 Canyon (Crew - 70,000 mi.). Periodically, when I start it, it begins to start but within a nano second will terminate. When I attempt to immediately start again, the truck will not start. On occasion when I've been attempting to immediately restart, I too have experienced momentary rolling on of the engine. If I wait 10-15 mins., it will start as if nothing has happened. I recently took it to the dealership, they had it for three days, but they couldn't find anything wrong. Sometimes this problem happens once or twice a day or sometimes several days in between. This problem frustrates the heck out of me and I'm even more disappointed that my GMC dealership seems to be clueless about what to do. I have had a history of other electrical problems; driver's side tail light bulb replaced four times, front head lamp replaced twice, cruise control has quit working twice, a/c-heater fan motor quit working and has been replaced, and the heated seats sometimes will self-activate. This GM Colorado/Canyon model definitely has electrical problems that is endemic to it's design. Is there anyone who can give mfatman and me answers to our ignition problem?
  • AlennxAlennx Member Posts: 20
    2005 Colorado LS 2wd Crew @ 117K - Hard acceleration, long miles every week...

    Replaced all my blinker bulbs, which all popped within a month, wierd.

    Replaced my O2 sensors. The rear one I bought was the wrong type but I thought it was a manufacturer variance until my engine light came on. I happened to be in the Dealer to pick up my new Monroe struts and I asked if they could read the code. "You mean Diagnose the problem sir?" "That would be $100" Nah! I went one block to Autozone where they lent me a code reader and a 60 year old lady "Diagnosed" my code just looking at it, no reference to any computer... "Your rear O2 sensor is bad." Thanks says I, got one? Nope. So I went back to the Dealer and bought one for $75. I buy all my fluids at Autozone so I don't feel too bad about using their Reader for free.

    Further to my new struts, They cost me $100 each for Monroe Reflex, which are WAY better than the standard OEMs. The Dealer generously offered $400 to fit and align those puppies. Nah! I went to a local fixit who stupidly said "I don't fit other people's equipment." Ok dipstick, obviously you have too much business. I went to my local Les Schwab where I got talking to a very smart ex-Marine who got those things on and aligned in 45 minutes for $100. Score. The manager actually complained that he wasn't supposed to do that, until I pointed out that this is how you make loyal customers and my tires cost $700 per set... and they're almost due. Even in a recession, you have to force your money down some people's throats because of their "rules."

    I installed a dashtop Sirius/XM thingy. Just power from a ciggy point and antenna to the roof. Nothing fancy since the Input Converter I bought to put in the back of the stereo DOESN'T WORK and they won't honor their 30 day warranty. Now, if I leave it plugged in at the ciggy point, it somehow convinces my aftermarket engine disabler to engage and my truck is disabled. Lights come on, engine says "click." After the 3rd time I was left stuck in a parking lot, I figured out the combination to unlock the engine instead of just pressing randomly until it started. You'd laugh if I told you the sequence but I don't want my truck stolen so never mind :P I still pull the power for the XM now when I park because it's annoying to have to unlock the engine.

    I think I need to replace all the fluids next...
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Hello Keith62,
    I apologize that you are experiencing a concern with your vehicle. Have you taken the vehicle to a different dealer for a second opinion? Can you please email me your VIN and current mileage? You can get my email by clicking on gmcustsvc. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • madbattermadbatter Member Posts: 1
    I tried clicking on your profile (name) but could not get your 'e' mail. Hopefully you will reply to me at the same time you address keith62's issues. My 2005 Canyon has the same exact ignition issue. At various times it will decide NOT to start. The engine turns over like mad, but won't "catch". If I shut the key off to try and start it again, sometimes the engine keeps running. If I let the car sit for 15-20 minutes it starts fine and will run/.start fine indefinitely ...until the next time it goes on vacation!

    VIN: 1GTD5136458100 Mileage 65,000

    Thanx

    Jerry
  • tchunter2010tchunter2010 Member Posts: 5
    I think you need a new crank and timing sensor. Some times it starts sometimes not. After a long trip/ hot motor, No start , let it sit over night starts right up. Seems like it's not getting gas? I replaced both sensors . Solved that problem. There the 2 sensors up front near the timing chain cover. If you tap on them when it wont start it may get it started for ya. I'd just replace them ASAP. easy to do. 5 minutes each. do it your self. It is imposible to screw it up. Have the Chev garage get the parts and show you were they are . Saved myself a few Hundred. My labor = free. Parts were $50 each I think. Good Luck. I had about the same miles on mine too.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    I just clicked on her name and a window popped open and it has her email address.
  • keith62keith62 Member Posts: 5
    edited August 2010
    I returned my '06 Canyon to the dealership and they were finally able to resolve my ignition issues (knock on wood). Even though they continued to say that they were unable to replicate my frequent "non-starting" events, they seemed to have an epiphany about what might be wrong. They relearned the "ignition passlock sensor" and replaced the ignition switch and housing assembly--- that seems to have worked. GM Customer Service picked up on my message posting thread and were quickly in contact with me and my dealership. I know that they talked to the dealership service manager and I am thankful for their help. Good luck madbatter--
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Hello Jerry,
    My email address is socialmedia@gm.com. Can you please email me your VIN, the one you have posted is missing a few numbers. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • ohcoloradoohcolorado Member Posts: 9
    edited August 2010
    Well, after several problems over the life of my 2005 Colorado, I thought GM might help me...What I got was a short and rude response to a request for some goodwill warranty help! Obvious defective wire connectors, GM is well aware, there is hundreds of posts all over the internet about Blower Motor wire connectors melting!
    Now after several attemps to diagnois my reduced power mode, I find it is another faulty wire connector to the throttle position sensor! GM spends millions on advertising, but will lose a 30 year customer over a few hundered dollars...GO FIGURE THAT! How many people have had problems with intermittent electical problems because of faulty GM connectors?
    A definite design flaw! I have been buying GMs for 30 years, and a retired GM dealer employee! NO HELP FROM GM though! I have simply asked GM customer service to provide me with a pigtail connector, which they should under recall anyway.
    Problems with my Colorado:
    Headlights fog up
    Front tires wear prematurely
    Roof leaks
    Brakelight switch
    idol problem (New GM Head)
    Throttle Body replaced
    Heater Blower Wires/connector burn/melt
    Throttle position sensor- DEFECTIVE WIRE CONNECTOR
    All of these things traced to manufacturing/design flaws!
  • ohcoloradoohcolorado Member Posts: 9
    edited August 2010
    Well, after several problems over the life of my 2005 Colorado, I thought GM might help me...What I got was a short and rude response to a request for some goodwill warranty help! Obvious defective wire connectors, GM is well aware, there is hundreds of posts all over the internet about Blower Motor wire connectors melting!
    Now after several attemps to diagnois my reduced power mode, I find it is another faulty wire connector to the throttle position sensor! GM spends millions on advertising, but will lose a 30 year customer over a few hundered dollars...GO FIGURE THAT! How many people have had problems with intermittent electical problems because of faulty GM connectors?
    A definite design flaw! I have been buying GMs for 30 years, and a retired GM dealer employee! NO HELP FROM GM though! I have simply asked GM customer service to provide me with a pigtail connector, which they should under recall anyway.
    Problems with my Colorado:
    Headlights fog up
    Front tires wear prematurely
    Roof leaks
    Brakelight switch
    idol problem (New GM Head)
    Throttle Body replaced
    Heater Blower Wires/connector burn/melt
    Throttle position sensor- DEFECTIVE WIRE CONNECTOR
    All of these things traced to manufacturing/design flaws!
  • ohcoloradoohcolorado Member Posts: 9
  • caoroncaoron Member Posts: 4
    I know exactly what you are talking about. I bought an 04 crew cab z71 4x4 last August and it will keep turning the engine over even though you release the switch. Luckily, my truck will start and I do not experence the wait 10 minutes to start. Also, I can relate to many of the other problems posted, etc. speaker ghosts, door power locks, front tire wear, throttle body and sensor problems and I have also noticed this summer my temperature hand going to the top of the temp icon in the center of the gauge while in heavy traffic with air conditioner on. I have also had the reduced power situation once in which I did not think I was going to make it home.
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