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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • bitsmasherbitsmasher Member Posts: 15
    Oddly enough my '05 has been running great since the dealer replaced the cylinder head a year and a half ago. I figured out and fixed the problems with the window and blower moter myself, so I'm a happy camper. I think the big satisfaction factor with any vehicle is how well the dealer does by you after the sale.

    Sorry to hear you are still angry about your experience even after dumping the truck :(. Could be folks don't want to post here seeking helpful advice because they can see all they get is a spew of gloom and doom from you. They want solutions - not to get more depressed.
  • den052den052 Member Posts: 27
    BTW how did you fix your window and lock problem? Mine has been working fine (going on the third year). I greased the module connections with silicone. I also cut and soldered new wires on the fan speed resistor module and spliced it back into the harness. I do have a problem once and a while with the dome lights. The actual dome light in the roof is a cheap receptacle and the contacts to the bulb are weak. However the dome lights completely stop working from time to time. Even the under-dash lights. Haven't had time to trace the wiring diagrams and probe the circuit, but am guessing the dome light fuse will need grease because of fuse block issues with this vehicle.
    A good site to have with this vehicle is "EAutorepair.com" Or search for "Mitchell online". You can subscribe to this website for all the wiring diagrams and repair info for a full year $29.00. You can also subscribe for 1 week ($11.99), or 1 month ($16.99). They have all the wiring schematics for this vehicle and you can print them out for your records.
    Thanks, Den052
  • bitsmasherbitsmasher Member Posts: 15
    Hi Den,

    Check out my post to Lucrio (#638) where I detailed this. It was a quick fix (unelegant) but it's still working so I'll let it be.

    Thanks for the tips on the other web sites too!
  • den052den052 Member Posts: 27
    Thanks Bitsmasher, the thread has gotten so big that it is hard to find previous posts without the message #. Yes, that is the way to fix circuit problems by testing the circuit with a load. So many people just probe the connection and verify 12v without operation or load. Seen it time and time again being a auto-mechanic. You have to load the circuit to test connections and voltage availability.
    Thanks
  • wes0110wes0110 Member Posts: 6
    I just traded the truck in after fixing several problems myself. I was fresh off of a new vehicle purchase and saw a post from another. I came to this website originally to find a solution to problems with a truck that I really loved. I certainly have not spread doom and gloom. I have merely expressed my concern with others purchasing Chevy/GMC products. Some people have Chevy/GMC vehicles with no problems. But most have had the same issues that all of us have experienced. Many ignore the weird electrical problems, due to the cost of repairs. My point being, if I or no one else complains, then no one will hear the issues and the companies will continue to sell bad products to unsuspecting people. No one should have to research and find solutions to problems that should be fixed by manufacturers. Please don't take my posts personally and attack me, when they (Chevy/GMC) are at fault.
  • tmalletttmallett Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 colorado and I have had nothing but problems with the electrical system. The first was my blower motor speed control on the a/c. I replaced the module under the dash behind the glove box. That worked for a few days and then it quit working again. Then I ordered a new wiring harness that connects to the module and runs on up under the dash. It came with a new module. That has taken care of that problem. Then two days ago, I replace the original five year old battery and when I put the new one in, the drivers door window would not go up or down and the doors wouldn't lock or unlock with the key fob or using the control panels on the doors. I tried to reprogram using the manual and that didn't work. That's when I got on hear and found the same problem had been fixed by removing the control panels and puting the bioelectric grease on the plugs and re-installing everything. I thought no way is that going to fix anything. Tried it and it works. It may have even gotten rid of some other little gliches I was having like my tire pressure monitor flashing on the messages. I did have the truck reprogrammed about six months ago and it has never been as responsive as it is now. This little truck runs like a scalded cat and will slip the tires when it shifts from first to second gear if you stay in it and don't back off the gas. I love these little trucks, I just wish they didn't have so many elec. problems. I now have about seventy four thousand miles on it. G.M. obviously is not going to help us, so we just have to help each other. Thanks for all the info. that everyone put on here because it sure helped me out.
  • al6pndral6pndr Member Posts: 45
    I also had a chevy colorado that I loved as a matter of fact it was also an 07. Had 2 chevys befor it I loved even more, BUT with all the problems with this truck (Mine was the stripped down version, NO electrical "doodads") and NO help from the JERKS at the dealership (Randy Wise Chevrolet Milan Mi. THE WORST DEALERSHIP ON THE PLANET!!!) AND even less help from G.M. (Govt. Motors) It will be a LOOoong time befor these folks see ANY of my $ again!!!
  • snaproll1snaproll1 Member Posts: 88
    You must be like the last human being on the planet that had a Colorado, the rest are in the junk pile on their way to China to be sold as scap to Toyota so they can be turned into reliable vehicles.

    This thread has been dead for about 6 months.

    Just about everybody that was on this forum loved their Colorados or Canyons, but the stories are pretty much the same, endless reoccuring electrical problems, no help from the company or dealerships (with the exception of them helping themselves to your credit card). Pretty much everybody that was here moved on to other vehicles and manufactures.

    Give it time though, you'll get Sarah, Camron, Hewy, Dewy and Louie from the "GM Customer Care Club" or whatever it is to try and steer you into a dealership so you can get your wallet cleaned out and they get their commissions.

    My advice, get rid of the truck before you have other expensive surprises like the tail lights not working, the head neading to be replaced, the radio failing etc.

    It really is funny, the one reoccuring theme with the truck is when the battery is disconnected or drained. After that, the electrical problems with the vehicle are endless.

    Best of luck to you. If you don't already, sooner or later you will understand...

    GM= :lemon:
  • stevep75stevep75 Member Posts: 1
    It's not a coincidence. I have an 05 Chevy Colorado also and had to disconnect the battery. When I hooked it back up...no power door locks and the driver side window would not work. If you search this on the internet (I'm a master internet surfer), you'll see it appears to be a common problem with the 05 Colorado specifically. Everyone says it's the BCM and suggests "tricks" to fix it by disconnecting wiring harnesses, touching battery cables, waiting several days, weeks, months, etc. None of it worked for me. Taking it to the dealership to be fixed or driven through their showroom window.
  • den052den052 Member Posts: 27
    This door lock and window issue is all over this thread. Disregard all the general "don't know what they are doing comments". There are basically 3 ways to fix this issue. Remove the plugs off the door switch module and apply di-electric grease to the plugs. Replug back in and see if the problem is resolved. Check for a good 12v feed that powers the door module. You may have to test this by applying a 12v load such as a headlight (2-3 amps), to the circuit to make sure you can pull a good 12 volts through the wire. There have been problems with the fuse block fuse connection for the door module loosing power at that point. If the previous 2 methods don't work, replace the door module (on ebay or amazon for about 40-60 bucks.)

    Disconnecting the battery and or touching battery cables together don't do a thing even though it may appear to resolve the problem as it is an intermittent problem. I fixed mine 2 years ago with di-electric grease.

    The body computer is NOT corrupted or anything as every other function of the body computer still functions. All other methods of weird stuff are just "Shade tree mechanics" that don't know what is going on.

    Licensed Master Mechanic Light and Heavy Vehicles (trucks and Semi's) GM mechanic for over 40 years.

    Dennis Tomlinson

    Finally sold my Colorado as I couldn't get good mileage around town. Was able to pull 23-24mpg on highway, but might as well drive a full size pickup that gets that TOO.

    When sold, everything functioned like factory new with no check engine light either. I was happy with the vehicle except for poor stop and go mileage for a 4 cylinder engine. In my opinion, the 4 cyl engine had adequate power. Some people [non-permissible content removed] that Colorado's were underpowered but it didn't seem all that bad to me.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    If I understand your post correctly, stevep75, you are headed to your dealership to get this looked into? Keep us updated on your progress on this! If we can be of any assistance, we can be contacted at [email protected] (include your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN, and a summary of the situation).
    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • rick1949rick1949 Member Posts: 1
    hello, can anyone tell me the item numbers or the exact name so we can order
    the parts mentioned that is
    1. the ignition passlock sensor
    2. timing sensor
    3. crank sensor
    greatly appreciate any help

    thank you
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    1. The passlock sensor is a component within the ignition switch, so you buy the entire switch:

    part # 15795321

    2. Not sure what you mean by "timing sensor". do you mean camshaft positioning sensor (that is, valve timing) or do you mean something related to ignition timing?

    3. Part # 12588097

    IF you mean camshaft sensor, that part # is: 12584516

    If you mean ignition timing, that is not done by sensor. It works thusly:

    IGNITION COIL/MODULE

    Each ignition coil/module has the following circuits:
    An ignition voltage circuit
    A ground
    An ignition control (IC) circuit
    The PCM controls the individual coils by transmitting timing pulses on the IC circuit of each ignition coil/module to enable a spark event.

    The spark plugs are connected to each coil by a short boot. The boot contains a spring that conducts the spark energy from the coil to the spark plug.
  • cral_dogmancral_dogman Member Posts: 2
    OK, my battery is going dead, 05 Colorado. Has anyone tried keeping a charge on the system, either with a battery charger or a jumper from another car, while changing the battery?

    I was considering taking it to the dealer to have a new battery installed but they want $230 to install a new battery. The only reason I would ever take it there is because of all the problems I have read about, and from what I've read and experienced, I don't think I trust them to get it right anyway. When I told them my concerns they acted like they didn't know what I was talking about.
  • snaproll1snaproll1 Member Posts: 88
    edited August 2013
    Are you just trying to change the battery, or is the battery going flat overnight? If it is...

    The first question is, "Do you have the other symptoms?". Does your driver window still work? Does the fob lock the doors? If the answer is 'no', then you probably have the weird software glitch that no one at Chevy has ever heard about in seven years. If you take it to them, plan on having them replace the battery, the BCM, burn out your blower motor and handing you a bill for a grand to not fix the problem. If this is the case, then the best fix is probably replacing the door/window module, (that Chevy swears has nothing to do with the problem).

    If it is just a battery issue, without the window/fob thing, then it may be an unrelated weird electrical problem.

    I would check for a battery at Batteries Plus before I'd get scalped by a dealer. The last time I checked (back before I gave up on the Colorado and bought a Toyota), the batteries were only available through a dealer. Perhaps now there are aftermarket sources.

    Just remember, "The Chevy Colorado, the gift that keeps on giving... to their service department".

    The best advice, sell the truck and never buy another Chevy product.

    Look up "Chevy Electrical Problems" in the dictionary and you will see an entry that says, "See hopeless situations".

    Seriously, good luck. You're going to need it as long as you own that truck.

    GM=Lemon
  • mrwebmanmrwebman Member Posts: 15
    There's no reason that you couldn't swap a battery out while keeping the leads live but you'd have to be careful not to touch anything else. Maybe some extra hands?

    You can get a battery for the Colorado just about anywhere now. I bought mine at Advance Auto for under $100 and they did the work.

    My 9 year old Colorado is a 2004 model with about 130K on it and other than the door locks not working properly, and the body computer crashing twice, it's been a good truck. I'm on my third set of tires which isn't bad for the miles, second battery, and it still drives and runs like a new truck. I won't buy another GM but that's just politics...
  • bitsmasherbitsmasher Member Posts: 15
    There are too many other problems that can occur by changing a battery with the engine running, IMHO. Just insure all electrical devices are off, doors closed, windows up and engine off, than swap the new battery in. Sounds like you are concerned about dropping voltage on the truck and having the door window and locks not work. You can actually bring on this situation with a near shot battery - the low voltage of the old battery pushes a lot more current through the connectors then they were designed for - this includes the fuse connectors in the fuse block, causing them to overheat and lose their gripping. This results in an intermittant connection that can fluctuate when outside temperatures rise and fall. I describe how I fixed this problem on mine in posts 426 and 438 in this forum - check them out - not elegant, but I haven't touched it since then and it still works fine - over 2 years now! None of the other "magic"cures I have read make any logical sense. Good luck!
  • den052den052 Member Posts: 27
    edited August 2013
    As a GM mechanic, the only thing I was ever concerned about when changing a battery is losing the customer pre-sets on the radio. I changed the battery in my 2005 Colorado using the normal method and didn't experience any window or lock problems. However I had that problem in the past and lubed and cleaned the connections on the door lock/window module.

    It is possible to change the battery while the vehicle is running. Just remove the positive post, (being careful not to touch ground with the battery post removal tool), and wrap it in a cloth or duct tape and place aside. The ground you don't have to worry about. Remove the battery and install new battery and reverse the procedure. If I were to do this, (and have done it in the past), I would leave the headlights on so the alternator would be supplying some current to the vehicle (to lessen voltage spikes).

    As a side note, apparently Colorado trucks are not the only one with window/lock problems. A friend of mine had a 2010 Dodge Charger that the right window quit working. As I couldn't troubleshoot it right away, he went for a few months without it working. When he changed his battery, it started working again. Interesting stuff.

    Dennis, (certified ASE mechanic).
  • cral_dogmancral_dogman Member Posts: 2
    The battery was very low this morning, enough to reset the clock. It barely started but everything worked so I took it to Sears and had them drop a new battery in it. I got lucky, I guess. Everything works OK for now but I will keep this forum bookmarked for future reference, I will probably need it.
  • mapzonemapzone Member Posts: 1
    I'm going to give you ALL a 10 cent fix to a $$$ problem. The door actuator switches on the Chevy Colorado, Canyon, I thin Yukon and perhaps other models don't actuate properly when the door is closed. The "door open" warning on the dash panel is displayed, the bells ring and the automatic locks try to click to lock, time and time againg ~ the power windows work erratically or not at all. Well that's the problem... Now for the FIX.
    Take a 5 cent stick-on tab about 1/2" wide 1/8" high (something that you might use as pads for a table lamp, etc.) and stick them on the metal door side opposite the door switch. Place one on all 4 doors of the vehicle. Close all the doors and watch as the warning lights go out on the dash ~ the windows work and the alarm bells cease to ring. Voila, your car is fixed.
  • strider1618strider1618 Member Posts: 1
    It sounds like I have the same issue. I have a 2005 GMC Canyon. When my battery died, I replaced it, but the driver's side window does not work and the power locks do not work. The fuses seem to be okay. Where do I find this relay you are speaking about? Please be specific and forgive my ignorance. I am assuming that the simple tapping of this relay is just temporary fix?...assuming it does work on mine. Thanks for your help.
  • den052den052 Member Posts: 27
    edited October 2013
    Well strider1618, the post before yours is really not related to this window/door lock problem. Remove your door switch module and remove the plugs. Smear di-electric grease (found in a parts store), on the plugs. Re-plug the door switch module back in. Hopefully this fixed it as it fixed it for me. There is a fuse that feeds power to the window module. I understand there are problems with the contacts mating to the fuse. In other words, 12v power is lost from the fuse to the module. To troubleshoot this power feed problem, you would have to get access to a wiring diagram. You can sign up for a 1 month (or 3 years), membership to http://www.eautorepair.net/, (Mitchell on Demand) for a minimum of $16.00 1 month or abt $25 for 1 year, or 39 for 4 years. Then you could print out all the diagrams and repair info you need.

    Its fairly easy to remove the door/window module on the drivers door. I believe you have to remove 1 or 2 phillips screws and pop a couple clips on the module to release it from the door trim panel. No need to remove the door panel.

    Certified Master GM Mechanic.
  • bitsmasherbitsmasher Member Posts: 15
    My fuse was good too - it was the clips that grip the fuse that wouldn't make a good connection - see my post #675 for my solution.
  • den052den052 Member Posts: 27
    Bitsmasher, Your repair and diagnosis in Message # 638 was perfect and is the correct way to troubleshoot 12v feeds. For people having these problems, see message # 638 before replacing the door module. Bitsmasher is exactly correct.
  • arjayaggiearjayaggie Member Posts: 1
    Have a 2011 Canyon and on hard turns or bumpy roads the electric door locks will cycle open/shut and the seat belt warning audio signal will chime, even witht he seat belt buckled. I have not found a service bulleting on this, and the dealer service advisor says he has never heard of this problemf. Anyone else experienced this and is there a known solution?
  • rsexsonrsexson Member Posts: 1
    where is the fuse for the auto door locks , located on a 2010 chevy Colorado?
  • traceyl2692traceyl2692 Member Posts: 2
    left headlights on yesterday in my 07 Chevy Colorado and ran the battery dead! jumped it off and it started right up,now drivers window,and door locks don't work! can someone please tell me theres a simple fix,.or reset that will fix this....
  • nhrastock52nhrastock52 Member Posts: 1

    My fuse was good too - it was the clips that grip the fuse that wouldn't make a good connection - see my post #675 for my solution.

    How do you find a post by number? Thanks.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited May 2016
    We've switched forums software since then. If you click on a member's name (i.e. @bitsmasher ) you'll get to their profile where you can see all the posts they made.
  • romulan1romulan1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2011 Chevrolet Colorado that just turned 16,000 miles on it. The ABS light came on/off while driving home. 10 miles from home, light stayed on and then I heard a scraping sound while driving. The noise got louder when I applied the brakes. In fact, the brakes failed momentarily almost hitting a police car.
    Upon arrival at home, I inspected the front expecting to see something caught in rotor/brake but didn't see anything. Brake pads are original and still with good material left. The vehicle is almost 5 years old with low mileage and I would not expect to see an ABS light come on. I am perplexed.
  • cpq28g72cpq28g72 Member Posts: 1
    I have been following this for over a year. I too had the issue with the drivers window and door locks. It all started like everyone else, Battery needed changed, them wham, no drivers window and door locks. I have a 2004 Colorado, 4 door, z71 2wd, L5 engine, now has 158,000 miles on it, daily driver, had to change the resister pack and harness once about 5 years ago for blower, and until about a year ago, (Battery Bad/ door locks and drivers window problem) I haven't had any issues with this truck, I have only ever had the check engine light come on once, and it was a fuel cap, changed that and that went away.
    So the window thing would fix itself periodically, and screw up again, then fix itself, then screw up again, until about 8 months ago it was permanent. It didn't bother me, but got online found this post, and decided to follow it, I am amazed at how many people have had all these issues, same ones over and over. Well today I decided to look into my situation with the drivers window and door lock and found fuse no.21
    defective. i installed a new 20 amp fuse and BAM, everything works. I am going to try to attach an image of the fuse. checked good with continuity, in the truck, checked good with test light in the truck, and looked fine visually, so for [non-permissible content removed] and grins, i grabbed my needle nose pliers and pulled the fuse and the one leg stayed in the fuse box. So i thought i would post what I found.
    Thanks




  • aswynd04aswynd04 Member Posts: 1
    I wish I can drive my 08 GMC canyon again. I was the first truck that I had to ask a bank for a 4-year loan. It was a big step for me. 3 years into making payments the problems started. Ground issues, fan blower, then transmission problem. Transmission problem wasn't gm's fault most likely me from towing and letting the fluid getting to hot and dirty. Had to replace the valve body gasket, the symptoms and codes that were showing up didn't point me in the right direction and it took me over 6 months and numerous parts on a tight budget to finally fix it, I was so *****ing happy that day when I finally fixed it so It would shift into drive and go where before it would act like neutral ( solenoid problem? nope but that's what the scanner said). I drive my truck when a smile from ear to ear to my buddies place hangout for a bit and when I started the truck to leave it was running rough like no other, Yep the TPS sensor when completely bad ( my dash did warn me months before check tps) I somehow made it home on 1 cylinder it seemed like. And started to have more issues. Dead battery overnight. after replacing that I can't even get the mother****er to crank, I have had this truck for 5 years got to drive it for 3 years. I really want to take it to a GMC dealer and have them fix it but I don't have the money for that, because I know its gonna cost over a 1000 to fix everything and that's not including the bs fees and replacement parts that don't even exist on the truck like a flux capacitor. I'm beyond pissed because I own a truck that doesn't run and now I'm completely broke because of trying to fix it. Sorry for my post being hard to read and follow.I'm just super pis*ed and wanted to join the club. To sum it all up. I hope everyone that helped design this truck and sell this truck and continue to sell, have a bad fortune and own a wallet like mine forever, unlike me that can continue to work hard so I can afford a day to watch my truck be blown up at a bombing range, while I'm safely sitting in my new Ford, Dodge, or anything other than GMC. F*** GMC.
  • NitroNitro Member Posts: 1
    I have a problem with my 04 brake lights taillight's don't work after changing brake light switch and fuse
  • autojoeautojoe Member Posts: 5
    04..... Make model engine size? Why did you replace switch and fuse?
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