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Good Luck.
checked fuel on bleeder on back of filter has fuel the lift pump is working. has fuel to bleeder on injection pump. but will not hit a lick.
Does any one know what the problem mite be?
Re dodge ram 1500 most times that put gas in it stalled with in a few yards to a few miles. I left it with a mechanic for several weeks. He fixed the problem. It was the roll over valve that's cast into the gas tank. Dodge has redesigned this item twice and the whole tank has to be changed to replace it. The problem is that the valve gets stuck and either allows gas to flood the engine,causing a stall or not allow gas to enter the tank. In my case, the tank and valve was replaced at a cost of close to $1,000.
My check engine lights goes off and on when auto zone scanned it its the o2 seniors i just replaced both and the cat
Anyone help me out or any ideas
ball park, thinking Fuel management.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated, look forward to your suggestions.
I apologize if this same issues was posted once before, Or if this was the wrong thread, Google sent me here
Welcome to the forums, I'll see if we can get @Mr_Shiftright or @thecardoc3 in here to give you some hints.
For example, if the fuel trims are adding fuel at idle and are very high (20% or more) but are normal (less than 5%) when driving then a vacuum leak becomes likely. Get some data and that will give us a direction.
2002 350 Ram Van 5.9 gas. Tried to fix over temp, new radiator, fan clutch, hoses, thermostat, belt, no change. Six ECM error codes, four with low voltage and two the pressure sensors on trans. Cleared the codes my disconnecting positive on battery and hold brake pedal for fifteen seconds. Codes came back. I check the voltage on the battery and checked good 14v +- .2v. Two mechanics said ECM bad, dealer said ECM bad. Bought same ECM on ebay and tried to have dealer install it, and the bought ECM had security (alarm, etc) in ECM mined did not and almost disable the van with old ECM, they got to run and I returned the bought ECM. Next purchase a new ebay ECM with my VIN and mileage with two week return. I learned on the forums and on the first step of the new ECM install instruction to replace battery if more than 3 years old, van start normal, I took a chance put in a new battery ($100+) reset ECM and took it to auto zone to check for codes, NO CODES. Also temp is now in low normal range and has not spiked to overtemp. I am returning the uninstall new ECM ($385). Van runs great as it was four months ago. Warning do not drive too long with holding brake and gas at same time to keep engine running, this may ruin the Trans.
While attempting to remove it the unit came apart in my hand. No I didn't break it but I did look at it very closely It appeared that the unit was not glued or the glue didn't adhere very well. I mixed up some epoxy and put it back together. While squeezing the unit It developed a bubble in on of the corners. Squeezing and releasing the port for the sensor caused the bubble. so I applied more to the corner to fill the gap. I let it set up and reinstalled the unit. The next day, after performing another repair, I restarted the truck. Everything ran well and it sounded like it was happy. I let it warm up and took it for a ride. It had been stalling within the first quarter mile of travel. I made it past that point and the took it for a shake down run. No stalling occurred.
My only conclusion, at this point, was that the poor seal and or the leak in the corner was not allowing the unit to respond to the atmospheric pressure changes in the manifold. Thus it was cutting off the fuel and caused it to stall.
I hope this information will help someone else. Keep looking! I have been perusing this problem for 6 Months. Good Luck
I cleaned the ground connections and changed the start relay and the power distribution / fuse block unit. The ECM and The PCM. Thank God for the Pick your own part places. they saved me hundreds. Each time I did a Change I would put the original computer part back in. I hate to hunt and pick. So as you tell I have a few spare parts extra.
I bought my own code reader, got tired of waiting 15 minutes to reset the Check engine light. I also looked at fuel pump wiring and possibly changing fuel pump.
NOTE: its a lot harder than they say to change the pump unless you have special tools.ie. lift, extra floor jack, extensions for the ratchets, wood blocks to support the units or the Bed. It is not a job to take on by yourself. I viewed three ways to do it and found that the easiest way to attempt it would be to lift the bed. There is a few videos on U-Tube.
Utilize your resources. U-Tube is good, but you have to pick and choose who to watch There are a lot of chat rooms and help blogs. Watch those too. They want your money and then make suggestions that you may have already have done.
Do your home work, Get detailed symptoms and then go about fixing the problem. Most of all Check your fluids! Gas, Transmission, and Oil fluids a low one can ruin your day.
Thanks for posting your info. Hope it helps someone else!