Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
The bearing in the distributor goes bad with age and the coil pickup sensor does not get a good signal. Check E Bay and you can get a new distributor complete for less! Get back with me.
His problem was acceleration going up and down, my van produces a jolt every few seconds while stopped.
At least now I know it's not a distributor, which I was planning to change. I guess I'll just wait till the computer gives me a code.
You could try the Got a Quick, Technical Question? discussion or Edmunds Answers. Answers gets a different crowd than the forums.
Please report back here if you learn anything.
Steve, visiting host
When I got home I popped the hood and listened to the engine. It makes a ticking sound every time it shakes. Just like the sound it makes after been turned off.
We are suppose to have a better day tomorrow, so I'll keep searching and hoping for a miracle.
You could swing by an auto parts store and see if any codes are being thrown.
spark plug wires
spark plugs
O2 sensor upstream--OBDII was coding this one
Air intake sensor OBDII was coding this one also
Fuel filter
Checked all vacuum hoses
I think that my problem may be distributor related since timing jumps all over the place with i put a light on even at when it is idleing smoothly HOWEVER i read in another thread that a quest owner simply tightened the ground wire on the PCM and problem gone. Another mentions the camshaft position sensor located in the distributor, but if you have replace the distributor, what are the chances of them both being bad?
here are some codes i have been getting
P0130 Closed Loop, Bank 1 Or Front O2S, Bank 1
P1148 Closed Loop, Bank 1
P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire
I have replaced the knock sensor on this car (10 hour job) and noticed that some of my "O" rings for my injectors were worn out and need replacing. I am not sure but i believe that this would also cause rough idle if air were leaking in however it would be rough idle all the time. Check the bolts for tightness on the plenium (upper intake mainfold), although this would cause car to idle rough all the time. The fact that it runs rough when warm (on my car) and not cold leads me to believe that it is still a timing or PCM issue. I really wish i could solve this one as my registration is coming due and i cannot pass with check engine light on!
One last note: my car does miss after heavy acceleration when gas pedel is released. Again HAS TO BE TIMING! Anytime the car is changing RPMs the distributor tells spark plugs when to fire based on position of crankshaft, correct?
how many miles on car and have you had timing belt changed? if you threw some teeth on timing belt ticking could be valves not opening and closing correctly.
I wonder if it's at all related to the throttle plate? I clean that on mine every ~30,000 miles or so, but only when it makes my '99 hesitate pulling away from stop signs.
Last summer I had an injector replaced and my mechanic also replaced spark plugs and fuel filter. When my injector went bad the van performed badly at all times.
My idling problems started very lightly last December and have increased ever since.
I clean the throttle plate regularly - whenever it sticks.
The van seems to be possessed only when idling. Step on the gas and the darn thing flies. :confuse:
Is the idle air control solenoid what keeps ticking once you shut off the engine?
Thanks.
Keep us posted on how it works out!
Steve, visiting host
Good luck, other than this problem..I love my Quest.
Michelle
All those things have checked o.k. but the gremlin is still there. I am close to just giving up and let this van run its course.
Still no ECM warning light.
All I had to do was replace the ignition wires and problem solved. I had checked the resistance on each of those wires and they checked ok and looked fine to the naked eye, but somehow when they got hot it seems to be a different story. The van has been for service several times but I don't think anybody knows the intervals for changing the wires.
I'll be back from time to time and sooner if there are any changes.
Before you sink any more money into it make sure you are replacing what is really malfunctioning because things will add up.
You could check the distributor to see if the bearings are gone but I think that replacing only the ignition module is a little bit more complicated.
gets dry of lubricant with age and miles and builds up heat and you get a knock code
most often after the engine get warm or hot. Read the posts for the last few years
and then replace the distributor and save money.
You can buy an engine on ebay for about $350. They even had a new short block for sale in Texas. Did you change the belt recently?
Go here for expert help on Villager and Quest.
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/
The Van has 111,500 miles on it and has been well maintained. any help would be very appreciated, this van has turned into a money pit!
Had a rough engine idle at stop lights. Occasionally the knock sensor would be tripped and sometimes another code. Checked vacuum hoses, catalytic converter, had all the belts replaced including timing and water pump, a few other things and eventually replaced the distributor yesterday. Engine appears to run smoothly now at stops. No more rough idle.
Although the symtoms you have described is very much like mine, it seems that your engine is different than mine. Mine has 3.0 liter engine. I have been living with it for last 4~5 years. Please keep me posted if the problem is gone for good. Also if you could e-mail me with the price and the source where you have purchased the distributor assembly, that would be appreciated too. mikek847@yahoo.com. Thanks in advance.
I have a 99 Villager with a 3.3 V6. I just put a different motor in it. Since I put the motor in I had rough idle and a hissing noise. I replace the Plenum Intake gaskets all the vacuum hoses. New Plug and wires. I had to use the fuel rail, wiring, and the distributor from the old motor. I have reset the time 3 or 4 times now. The check engine light came on and I checked the codes and it gave me 0135 O2 sensor. I replaced that and I still have the problem. Can anyone help me out to get the hissing noise and the rough idle problem fixed.
Thank You