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Dodge Dakota Warning Lights and Trouble Codes

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Comments

  • steveo66steveo66 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for your input. I will try those out and see what happens.Take care.
  • dakota62dakota62 Member Posts: 1
    My seat belt and air bag light is on.Anyone know of probable causes?
  • dwayne9dwayne9 Member Posts: 1
    i obd'd my 1997 dodge dakota 2 wheel drive 6 cyl i scanned my engine and rec a bad map sensor reading i plan on retrieving one from a used auto part yard i wanted to know is there anywhere i can find a listing of all vehicles that used the same exact map sensor thats required for my car
    or what cars have the same part used in my car i have seen such a site but dont remember how to cross reference vehices
  • lguilford2011lguilford2011 Member Posts: 2
    if your air bag light is on that means the air bag module needs to be replaced, the same thing happened to me
  • fletch1114fletch1114 Member Posts: 1
    I am getting 3 codes on my 2004 dodge dakota. P0531 P0533 and P0645. I know P0531 is speed sensor which I replaced but the ABS and Brake light are still on and the spped odometer still does not work. Can anyone tell me what else may be causing this? Also what could be causing the other codes P0533 and P0645 I know they are A/C related as my A/C quit at the same time my lights for the speed sensor problem came on. Any help is appreciated.
    Thanks
  • drallergydrallergy Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone had any experience with the {chips} that are supposed to give you up more horse power? I tow a trailer and it would be great but I hate to spend $70 dollars for something that does not really work or will blow up my engine! I also have problem with either the computer, alternator or the battery temp sensor I put new battery and ordered a new computer. Any help or Ideas would be helpful also the mechanic said the codes indicated a new computer was needed ..
  • mformanmforman Member Posts: 4
    Hello All

    I am hoping someone may have some insight on the issue I am having with my 2005 Dakota.

    No dash lights are signaling an error, but when I stop on a slick surface my ABS system turns on for a second or so then the truck starts sliding until it stops. Very rarely does the ABS system turn on after the first attempt, and if it does it is only for another second. We just had a heavy snow storm so it is easy to test out. Again I can feel the truck sliding and the ABS kicks on for a second and then stops working.

    When I turn the truck on the ABS light turns on as normal for a few seconds then turns off. There is no other identification of an issue that I know of besides the fact that the ABS does not work properly.

    Thank you for taking a look and for any help

    Matt
  • clubdread1clubdread1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2008 dakota with the 4.7 liter v-8 i bought the truck used and the airbag light is on the other day i was driving and every warning light came on , ABS , Check Engine , Brake light , and air bag light my cruise control and my speed odometer also quit working , the truck runs fine all my head lights and radio still play and when i tried to pull codes nothing came up any help would be greatly appreciated !
  • zzismezzisme Member Posts: 3
    This is interesting.. My left headlight has gone out 3 times in less than 2 years... I'm also having major computer problems!
  • robsfarmrobsfarm Member Posts: 1
    dodge is famous for his stuff...the sensor at the differential absolutely has to be all the way down. I had the same problem (98 Dakota), after driving a while longer I returned to the sensor and found it to be off full seat about 30 thousandth of an inch, I re-tightened the nut with a very light tap with the end of a large screw-stick until it was fully seated, solved the ABS/Brake and speedo problem........unfortunately I also have the lost of fire problem every few weeks...a real hassel. It's become personal now.....I will figure this thing out.....
  • tjfitztjfitz Member Posts: 41
    My 1990 Dodge Dakota has been lighting-up the "Check Engine" light now and then over the past two months or so. I did the ignition switch off-on-off thing and got code 41, which I believe has something to do with the generator.

    This morning I started the engine and, as I also notice now and then, the starter wouldn't engage on the first try, but did on the second. This may be something to do with the new ignition switch (after market item) and the replacement operating rod that goes from the key cylinder to the ignition switch (Dodge item $100!) that I put in last year.

    Could the starter failing to start on the first try trigger the 41 code? I'm just guessing here, but it seems the Check Engine light coming on and the starter not engaging on the first try both began to happen around the same era.
  • carvermancarverman Member Posts: 101
    No, code 41 (P0622) is the generator (ok alternator) Field is not switching
    properly to control the battery charge. Therefore, the battery is not up
    to full charge and the solenoid will click trying to engage the starter because
    the starter draws hundred amps or so from a partially discharged battery,
    so the voltage (normally 12.6 volts) drops down to 10 volts or less.

    On the Dakotas the PCM (ECM) controls the field current for charging purposes. If the field is shorted, or the field brushes worn down, the
    PCM which acts as a voltage regulator for charging the battery, can't
    provide the required charge because of the problem with the Alternator.

    According to my 1998 Dakota Haynes manual (and you should get one
    for yours if you can read electrical diagrams), the generator output (current) is
    via a 140 amp fusible link located in the PDC (power distribution center)
    on the left fender next to the battery. The rectified o/p of the alternator
    goes directly to the battery through this fusible link.

    The voltage(and a small amount of current, required to excite the field
    of the generator is controlled by the ECM/PCM through a separate winding
    on the alternator called the exciter winding. There are two connections to
    this winding direct from the ECM..one is "generator field driver connection"
    on ECM/PCM connector C2, the other connection is the "generator field source" on connector C3., which has a "regulated and controlled field current. If the exciter field winding is shorted or not functioning because
    of bad brushes on the two field winding connection slip rings, then the
    field cannot "switch on or off" to regulate the state of charge to the battery.

    So to summarize:
    1. It's a discharged battery directly resulting from a problem with your
    alternator, and the ECM/PCM is trying to tell your that via code 41.
  • tjfitztjfitz Member Posts: 41
    carverman, thanks a million for the very complete reply. I just realized this afternoon I hadn't gone back to this site to check for any responses. Sorry for the delay. I'll bring the Dakota to a auto electrics shop nearby and have them take a look at it. When I get this fixed, I'll post back here.
  • vbeuschleinvbeuschlein Member Posts: 1
    Having trouble with my 2000 Dodge Dakota V-6. It sounds like it wants to turn over but just can't. The past couple of days I've had to hold the gas to a high idle to keep her running, then she sometimes dies before I get her in gear if I let off the gas. I did the manual code checker by turning the key three times... I get 6 beeps , followed by 2 beeps. Any help out there?
    At this point I'm gonna have to have it towed I think. :(
  • carvermancarverman Member Posts: 101
    It's hard to diagnose those beeps. Invest in an OBDII hand held code reader, they are very cheap to buy now, and you can get them in any
    store that sells some automotive products.

    The OBDII code reader will give you the P-codes, which are very easy to
    interpret.

    The stalling could be due to a low charged battery..especially if it has
    a hard time turning over in colder weather, when weak batteries start
    showing their age and inabilty to supply cranking amps.

    If the battery voltage is below 10volts, most of the sensors could be
    affected as well, and that could cause the engine to die, as the TPS
    sensor depends on a good regulated 5V being supplied from the PCM.
    same with the Cam and crank sensors.

    Test the battery voltage no load (ignition off)..if it's not reading 12.6 volts,
    then the battery is undercharged. That could be due to charging problem
    or most likely the battery itself if it is more than 4 years old.

    It's easy to test the battery..put a digital voltmeter across the battery
    terminals and crank the engine..if it's "grunting" or the starter solenoid
    is clicking..it's the battery not able to supply the starter.
  • benediasbenedias Member Posts: 1
    Hello and thank you to anyone who helps me solve this issue.

    Recently, and I mean all within about 24 hours, my truck experienced very different symptoms. The first was that my cd player will no longer eject cds. While this is possibly not related to the other 3 it is just weird it happened at the same time so it is worth mentioning. The next was my fuel gauge stopped working, then the check engine light came on. I received 3 codes, B2100, P0463, and P0700. After looking up the codes they stand for the following:

    B2100 - Low Battery Voltage
    P0463 - Fuel Level Sending Unit Volts Too High
    P0700 - Check Transmissions DTCs
    This code indicates that the EATX (Transmission controller) has an active fault and has illuminated the MIL via a BUS message. The specific fault must be acquired from the EATX via a DRBIII tool. (Input or Output Speed Sensor failures often cause this code)

    My first thought was this had to be electrical so I replaced all battery hardware and expertly cleaned the terminals. Didn't fix. I then checked all the fuses (couldn't check relays) and found one blown for towing lights ... and it didn't fix it. Now I'm just confused and would really appreciate any help. Going through the forums I've seen a ton of posts about the P0700 code but I'm not having any noticeable tranny problems like most the posters complain they experience. The tranny is less than 30k miles old and is shifting great. I'm feeling or hearing no weird noises or anything.

    As far as the truck it is an 05' Dakota 6 cylinder standard model with only the towing package upgrade. It has just over 140,000 miles, still runs good, and gets it's EPA estimated fuel economy. I just recently dropped the tranny pan and replaced the filter, all the fluid, and the surrounding gasket. The oil is changed approx. every 3k but as I drive a lot of highway miles if I go to like 3.2k or so I'm not overly concerned. I use all synthetic oil with usually mobile-1 filters unless a nicer brand has a really good sale on. It does have a cold air intake long with - and I'm not sure of the name as it was preinstalled when I bought it - an oil airater. For the cd player it is the standard 1 disk and is stock. The previous owner was a car mechanic so here is hoping he took care of it like he said he did.
  • ladybugz123ladybugz123 Member Posts: 1
    MY truck won't start. I have dashlights and door chimes but no headlights. Got headlights w/a jump but will not start. some say its the battery others say its the starter. How can i be sure as I can't have truck towed to a place to c.
  • warners05warners05 Member Posts: 1
    I have a check engine light on when I did the ignition code check I got a series of flashes ,3 3 2 5 5 anyway of finding what this trouble code is?
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Can you try that code check again?

    55 is "end of codes" but the others should all be 2 digit numbers... so you have either x3 and 32, or 33 and x2, or 33 and 2x ahead of the 55. Need to find out what that "x" is.

    KCRam - Pickups/Wagons/Vans+Minivans Host
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