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Volkswagen Eurovan DIY Tips

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Comments

  • sam203sam203 Member Posts: 8
    Hello,
    I have a 2001 Eurovan (now parked at the grocery store) that when I turn the key, the dashlights stay on but no resistance in the turning and no response (no clicks, no sound, nothing) . When I pull the key out the lights on the dash remain on. I had to disconnect the battery cable to prevent the battery from running down.
    The ignition replacement instructions you posted were unavailable. There was a pdf but the link has gone bad. Can you repost your sequence of ignition replacement instructions?

    Thank you for any help. I'm stuck.

    Sam
  • jcolombojcolombo Member Posts: 6
    We looked at this, and ended up going to our dealership as this is not a job for the faint of heart.
    We had an experienced shop attempt this - twice and $1,400.00 later, ended up going to dealership and all is well.
    Moral of this story is go to dealership. Should cost $900-$1,100.00.
    Good luck.
  • sam203sam203 Member Posts: 8
    Hello again. I was able to get the old plug out and the new ignition switch in and struggled to get the little screw back in. The dash lights did not come on (as before) when I reconnected the battery (this looked like a good sign). The clock and radio mileage indicator came on as normal. I tried to turn the ignition but the screw came loose again and no start. Does the screw have to be secure for it to get the ignition going or is the screw just for achoring the ignition switch.
    Also, is it possible that I have to put the streering color assembly, etc.. back together for it to work?
    Here is the dreaded question, if the ignition didn't work with the new switch (and all the above doesn't impact anything) does that mean the ignition lock cylinder?

    Thanks in advance,

    Sam
  • sam203sam203 Member Posts: 8
    edited May 2011
    Hello again. I was able to get the old plug out and the new ignition switch in and struggled to get the little screw back in. The dash lights did not come on (as before) when I reconnected the battery (this looked like a good sign). The clock and radio mileage indicator came on as normal. I tried to turn the ignition but the screw came loose again and no start. Does the screw have to be secure for it to get the ignition going or is the screw just for achoring the ignition switch.
    Also, is it possible that I have to put the streering color assembly, etc.. back together for it to work?
    Here is the dreaded question, if the ignition didn't work with the new switch (and all the above doesn't impact anything) does that mean the ignition lock cylinder?

    Thanks in advance,

    P.S. When I tried again, the ignition is frozen and will not allow the key to turn. Can these switches short out?

    Sam
  • weekender3weekender3 Member Posts: 15
    I'm pretty sure, the screw is only holding the switch in place, so it can't fall out. I don't think it takes any tortion. You can test by checking if the switch turns when you turn the key in the ignition. Make sure the switch is align properly inside where the switch meets the ignition lock cylinder.
    It sounds more like that your ignition lock cylinder is faulty. As the switch doesn't give any resistance to the assembly. Do you feel the clicks when you turn the key? I guess too, if you can't turn the key anymore that this has to do with the ignition lock and not with the switch. To further diagnose the problem, you would have to remove the switch and check the functionality of the lock itself to outrule a locking by the switch. You have to put that little screw in though on the end. The dashboard doesn't need to be assembled for the car to start.
    As I said before, it sounds more like a faulty lock cylinder.
  • sam203sam203 Member Posts: 8
    Ok, so I'll remove switch to see if the ignition turns, after I make sure it is aligned properly. If it doesn't turn, that could highlight a faulty lock cylinder, right?

    Is that the one I have to go Dealership on?

    By the way, it did turn the first time I tried this morning once I had it connected. Then the second time I tried, it locked.

    The parts rep., this a.m., asked me if I needed the "cylinder" with the ignition switch.
  • weekender3weekender3 Member Posts: 15
    I would test it without the switch mounted, then mount the switch again and test again. If the lock cylinder is broken you most likely have to see a dealer, as you need special tools to change it I would assume. Ask them if you can change the cilynder yourself or not. Parts guys are parts guys and usally not mechanics.
  • sam203sam203 Member Posts: 8
    Confusing since it was turning so freely yesterday (when it first happened with all the lights on the dash going even without the key in).
    I will try retesting.
  • sam203sam203 Member Posts: 8
    I was able to find a website that sells aftermarket ignition lock cylinders with keys (affordably priced: ~$12).
  • sam203sam203 Member Posts: 8
    I disengaged the ignition switch as you suggested and the key turns. Now what
  • sam203sam203 Member Posts: 8
    Ok, I did disconnect the ignition switch per your instruction (last reply was from my spouse) and the cylinder did turn with key in it. When I toggled the new switch's inner white keyhole-shaped recess to 90 degrees and then reconnected and turned the key, all the dashlights came on again as before when the first switch failed! Very strange. Also, I could get the gear shift into neutral. This was different from before as the gear shift wouldn't budge.
    Bottom line though, still no engine on. No clicks either.
    Do these symptoms give any clues?
  • skypantsskypants Member Posts: 2
    Your link is dead already. I just need to remove the steering wheel so i can drill a hole to remove the lock core. Any info on how to remove the steering wheel on a 2001 EuroVan?

    Thanks.

    I replaced the ig. switch but the lock core is broken and needs to be replaced.
  • spujalsspujals Member Posts: 1
    Your wheel bearings or CV joints are starting to break down....You will end up seizing the wheel! Stop driving and get your vehicle to a mechanic who can replace the inner and outer wheel bearing in the rotors of both wheels(should be done in pairs.) This should be a very simple and quick fix that should run you about $129.00 a wheel. I hope this helps.
  • davidfrankhofdavidfrankhof Member Posts: 3
    I'm having the same 2002 mv ignition switch problem. Ie, Dash lights stay on when key removed, and no resistance when turned to "start" position. My question is, was this just the switch or did it turn out to be the cylinder lock as well, and does that mean a dealer must perform the repair in order to reset old remote keys to new cylinder?
  • skypantsskypants Member Posts: 2
    There is a small pin at the base of cylinder that engages the switch. That pin sheared off. The dealer wants a fortune to replace the cylinder. So i removed the switch from the cylinder and pulled it and the wires to the left side of steering column. We use a flat head screw driver to turn the switch that starts the car. The key is used to disengage the steering lock and de-activate the ignition immobilizer.

    Works great, lasts a long time, cost zero! Its a little ghetto but the car isnt worth the couple hundred bucks it would take to fix it properly.
  • davidfrankhofdavidfrankhof Member Posts: 3
    Txs for the info. Sounds like you never removed the old broken cylinder? I'm hoping I can at least get the car started w your technique by operating the switch with a flat head... Were you able to remove the switch without pulling the steering wheel? Any chance you can point to the diy instructions? link mentioned in 2011 is broken. thanks again.
  • davidfrankhofdavidfrankhof Member Posts: 3
    Go getto! I'm driving it now w your help, and no need for a tow. It was the broken cylinder lock tang, switch is still operational... and no need for steering wheel removal on my 2002.

    Thanks for your help!
  • eurovanoneeurovanone Member Posts: 1
    Hello weekender3, the link that you posted is no longer working. Can you post it again or email the instruction to me. For no reason ABS and hand brake lights are on. BTW I have 1999 Eurovan GLS. Thanks.
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