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Comments
For now though let me share what the last 4 days has shown me.
Vehicle: 2004 Silverado 4WD 5.3 Z71 fully loaded
Anomalies: We've had colder than usual temperatures and a lot of snow and ice here in Salem, Or for the past week - other than that it's life as usual.
The facts:
- Pulled in to work Monday and shut the truck off
- An hour later went out to start the truck and all it would do is crank, no fire at all
- After a half hour of screwing around it finally started and ran fine
- Over the next 6 hours I had intermittent problems, it would always crank fine, it wouldn't always start. When it did it ran normal.
- Called the dealer and a tech told me that he was 99% sure it was the fuel pump, "save yourself $95 of diagnostics and just buy one and put it in" he said.
(NOTE) New fuel pump prices range from $200 to $542 depending on OEM vs aftermarket and the parts house you call
- I decided that a $95 check was worth the investment and took the truck to the dealership for testing.
- An hour and $322 later I pulled out of the service bay with a new crankshaft position sensor - "fuel delivery system checked out OK, but your battery is showing some weak indications, we suggest you change it before it leaves you stranded. It could also be part of your sensor problem."
- Ran the truck 2 days, no problems, an occasional rough idle was also gone
- Yesterday morning (xmas) I spent 3 1/2 hours clearing my elderly neighbor's driveway. The truck was either idling or running hard in 4wd for the duration of the time while I cleared down trees and made my way through a foot of snow going up their driveway. The truck gave me no problems.
- Afterward I made a few trips to town and everything runs good
- Now, this morning....walk out to the truck and hit the keypad to unlock the doors; nothing. I unlock the door with the key and then hit the button on the arm rest to unlock the door - nothing.
- Put the key in and the truck barely starts due to the battery being weak.
- I let it warm up and let the battery charge for about 15 minutes and then shut the truck off and try to restart it, for some reason thinking that the door locks might reset or something. I also notice that my fuel gauge is on E, so I add some gas thinking that maybe I ran it out and didn't notice. I added about 5 gallons and the gauge didn't move.
- I turn the key and the truck fires and dies with every turn of the key.
- I don't have a fuel pressure gauge but I pushed the button in on the fitting and when the key is turned on or cranking there is LOTS of fuel spraying out.
- I pulled the weak battery and get the old man to give me a ride down to swap the battery, Schwab's tests the battery and finds nothing wrong, but agrees to warranty it since it gave me problems early in the morning.
- Installed new battery and the condition is the same; cranks, fires, dies.
That's my story. I'm stuck with 10 inches of snow on the ground with a dead truck and a B-Mer that can't clear the ruts in the driveway - what a deal 'eh!?
Next move: a buddy of mine is picking me up shortly, I'm going to buy the on board diagnostics (OBD) software kit from the local parts house and run a full check, if that doesn't surface anything I guess I'm pulling the tank and changing the pump assembly.
Something just clicked; the fuel gauge sending unit is part of the fuel pump and in-tank filter assembly, I suppose there could be a connection or a supporting indication here since the engine seems to be starving for fuel (only firing briefly and then dying) and my fuel level indicator appears to be stuck on E when I know there is at least 5 gallons or roughly a 1/4 full tank.
Replies are welcome but this has been more of a venting session and a sharing of information than anything else. It does appear that most of the posts are symptoms only with little mentioned about final outcomes, so I will re-post with results as they become available.
Anyone interested in a '04 Silverado? Will trade for a pre '80s Ford or Chevy 3/4T pickup of which I can diagnose and fix with screwdriver, some duct tape, and a volt meter.... WELL IT'S TRUE!!!!
Thanks for reading, more to come.
BJ
Salem, Or
First of all, a little more information on what isn't working. In addition to my door locks the seat heaters, window controls, and the radio are not functioning. When the key is inserted and turned to ON the HUD lights up but says; UNKNOWN PASSENGER and when the shift lever is moved there is no indication as to what gear it is in. When the key is turned off a variety of jibberish type characters appear at random.
That said, I couldn't get myself to believe that the fuel pump was my problem, so I went and purchased a fuel pressure tester and an OBD II engine scanner. Pressure indicated was 62# at the initial turn of the key and 55# while cranking which is within the specifications I have found.
I plugged in the OBD scanner and it could not make a connection; key on or off it just kept saying; "Trying to establish a communications link" I tested the unit on another vehicle and all scans completed with no error.
I've tested every fuse I could find for continuity and they all checked out. I tested every applicable relay skipping only those that referenced something like head lights or fog lights. I tested all fuses that I could find, that even seemed to relate to the ignition system, for voltage; I don't know the the exact voltages required, but all those tested had approximately 12V showing, +/- .2V or so.
I'm stumped. The only thing I can believe is that one of the modules has gone haywire, it is my understanding that there are at least two; PCM (Powertrain Control Module) and the BCM (Body Control Module, which I believe to be a sub-system of the PCM)
I guess I'm going to have to break down and take it in to the dealer for another $95 verification. It is my understanding that a PCM replacement with relearn is a spendy repair, so I'm hoping they find something that I've over looked....... a blown fuse would be nice...... an expensive oversight, but nice.
Its got a brand new battery, brand new starter, its got voltage, i can hear the fuel pump turning on, but the starter makes no noise at all. I have checked all the ignition fuses i could see, dont know what to do next please help
:confuse:
Short version: Connectors at the PCM were checked and corrosion and water was found, the connections were cleaned, greased, and reinstalled and she fired right up. I got the truck back last night, the only pending problem I've noticed is that the XM radio, which was factory installed, does not come up as an option on the radio. Other than that it's running like top.
If you don't have voltage at the starter motor or solenoid have you checked the obvious items such as fuses/circuit breakers?
Three batteries in 3 months. Charge battery, lights shine bright. Turn switch to ON and voltage only indicates 8. Turn switch to START and lights dim a little, solenoid clicks half-heartedly and starter will not turn.
Put a jumper on and no change. Still will not start. When switch ON volts are only 8.
Put an amp meter on the ground line with ignition switch off and there is a residual 0.8 amp drain on the battery. I usually disconnect the ground line from the battery overnight to protect the charge for the next morning. Have not been able to find the source of the ground leak (pulled all fuses, relays etc and still a constant drain).
Sometimes if I leave the charger attached for 10 minutes, it starts up OK.
While running the volts indicate 15-16 initially, then settle to 14 when battery is fully charged. If I start within an hour after shutting down it works, but if I leave it more than 2 hours it is dead. All indications of a good battery (lights bright) until I turn on the switch. Maybe the temperature stops the voltage from reading right?
I suspect the starter is faulty, taking power but not turning over, but if the volts are reading right, why does the volts read only 8 when the ignition switch is on? If it was really 8, the lights would be dim? If it is the starter, would not the volts drop only when I turn the switch to START?
Where is the fuel pressure regulator? Do you know where the crankshaft position sensor Is?
My truck won't start until the second or third turn over..it used to start right away. It runs fine when it is started. Could those two things be my problem?
Thank you
I am currently having trouble installing a new Crankshaft position sensor.
I've replaced the old sensor with a new one I picked up at O'Reillys. It is cranking but my truck won't start.
Am I missing something? Do I need to do anything aside from just a swap out on the part?
Any info would be greatly appreciated.
My batteries went dead and I attempted to jump start with a power pack and had no success. Engine would not even turn over. I bought two new batteries and installed them. Now the engine cranks great, but engine will not start. Is there possibly a lockout that could have operated that is preventing the engine from getting fuel? I read in my owner's manual about "PASSLOCK", but it does not give me any information on how to reset it, and it states that it only operates if one tampers with the ignition or is attempting to start with incorrect key. I bled the fuel filter looking for air, but good fuel came out the top bleede screw opening immediately, so I don't understand WHY i am not getting fuel, if that is, in fact, the case. Thanks for any information/advice offered. jcrichmond
Im stationed out in Cali and have to have my 2001 silverado smoged to get it on base, so I failed the first time and took it to a shop and they cleaned off some dirt and mud on my EVAP system and got my check engien light to turn off. But they re-set my system by DCing my battery, now i cant get my Evap, Cat and EGR monitors to run so i cant even smog it. The Machanic wants to replace my fule pump, he said it will help get those systems to run. But I wanted to know if anyone knew how to get those systems to run ie. "5 mins at 35mph" or "12mins at 125mph?" or whatever. gettin frustrated thanks and stay classy!
I am posting this on behalf of my dad who purchased a 2006 GM, diesel truck with Duramax engine. It is a 3/4 ton Silverado. They use it to haul their fifth wheel. About 6 months ago it would not start on 2 occasions.The first time apparently there was a problem with "the relay" which was fixed, and the second time a computer part was replaced for around 2k, no cost to them as under warranty. My dad was concerned as he had had the truck only for a few months at that time. They recently returned home from a trip and the truck is again not starting, so just wondering if anyone else is having problems. The truck had been sitting for about 2 weeks,cold weather is not a factor. The truck was in the garage this Tuesday and they have yet to find the problem. Just wondering what you guys think the problem might be. My parents are retired and this truck was to last them for their "travelling" years. Thanks!!
I would appreciate some incites to this problem. I used a magnetic induction amp meter on the rebuilt unit in the truck and it maxes out the meter at around 85 amps. Unfortunately, I do not have one that goes any higher to use. The ground is connected to an exhaust manifold stud. It is quite thick in good condition and tight. The battery terminals are also clean and tight. I DID NOTICE that there seems to be a small ground cable that looks like it goes from the body to a bell housing bolt is disconnected.
I can be reached directly at donparadowski@yahoo.com. Thanks.
Also I keep topping up the coolent. I had a presure test done for 15 minutes and the gauge didn't move. Any ideas
Thanks
thanks
I'll let you know
thanks
Thanks
2002 gmc sierra, 3500, 8.1. usually starts up ok, on occassion 1-3 times I had to turn the key twice. When I drive say 5 minutes it dies. Battery light in upper left hand comes on(assuming this is just indicator truck has died), I have not changed the battery as it seems fine, done research on others whom have same issues or close to it and have came to possible solutions. It will always eventually start, but worried one day its not if I dont' find a solution to this.
1. bad ground-very possible considering after 30 seconds it will start back up, sometimes it will take longer. Only 1 time it has taken about 5 minutes. But seems I have to totally shut it down, which means off position
2. fuel injector, check valve, regulator??
3. possible oil change needed- I changed oil, but was given the wrong filter(gave me a smaller one but still screwed on, figured it was just a new design) I put oil in, started it up and some oil spilled. I noticed immediatly and had to put old filter back on temp until I can return. I put new oil in however...This was happening BEFORE I changed oil so not sure its a direct problem.
I notice that the oil pressure goes from 30 psi to sometimes hair over 40, this normal? sometimes it will get down to 20, sometimes hair under 20. This was before oil change as well as after, I just keep eye on it and even took video just in case it should be a concern. Was thinking maybe some engine oil restorer to seal leaks or in this case to prevent it as it seems it may be leaking just little. The undercarriage around the oil pan seems "oily". And some fuel injection cleaner maybe. Perhaps I'm loosing pressure, so it dies. Then I have to turn it off to get the pressure back?? as I mentioned I tried to immediatly start after dies but seems its always quicker if I shut off, wait 10-30 seconds and it starts.
any replies, either on her(guess it will let me know) or email truejunkmail @ yahoo com
BTW, sounds like a bad switch to me or a bad install.