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Town & Country/Grand Caravan Problem Codes
What does this mean? Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Malfunction. Cod PO403
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I have codes P 0442 and P 0456 Can anyone tell me what they mean? Thanks, Jack
I don't know about your '96 T&C, but I had a '96 Cadillac Deville that would display the codes on the instrument cluster after some ignition key and/or instrument panel push button sequence. Your T&C probably can do the same thing, but I do not know the magical sequence to make that happen.
Buy a cheap scanner. You can use it on any 1996 or later vehicle.
Some auto parts stores will read the codes for you free of charge. I think Auto Zone is one of them, but have never used them myself.
Why did your mechanic say that your fuel system needs to be serviced? Is he talking about just replacing the fuel filter or something else? Is he saying this just because of the miles? If he's talking about a fuel injector cleaning you can probably get good results yourself if you buy a bottle of a QUALITY injector cleaner at an auto parts store and add it to the fuel tank. Pay attention to the recommended ratio of gas to cleaner on the label before you just pour in an entire bottle.
Replacing the EGR valve can be done by a home mechanic but it's sometimes not all that easy to do, especially if exhaust heat has made the fasteners nearly impossible to loosen. You can purchase a new EGR valve at an auto parts store but be sure you have someone lined up to do the work who is willing to crawl under the vehicle and get his/her hands dirty.
ref. fuel system service; My engine light came up and i went to a shop to decode it and there the mechanic said that i must replace the egr switch and fuel service.I dont know what he means by fuel service.the code was P0401.
I am willing to go under the engine and try to replace the egr switch.Where is it located on this car.
Tons of thanks for your help.
I am grateful
There should be a second fuse box under the instrument panel on the driver's side. Look on the inside of the cover for anything related to the power mirrors.
On the EGR valve, if you see a pic of what one looks like it shouldn't be too hard to locate under the hood. Although they are replaced from above, sometimes you have to get underneath to loosen the large tube that goes to the exhaust. That's the one that can give you fits from the exhaust heat over the years making it nearly impossible to remove. I've screwed up some of those tubes trying to wrench those things loose before.
Here are some links that might help:
EGR Valve Inspection
EGR Valve Testing
EGR Valve Replacing
Replacement EGR Valve for 2001 Grand Caravan 3.3L
You might be able to get by with just cleaning out any carbon and crud (for lack of a better word at 2:00 a.m.) from the EGR valve and intake manifold ports that it bolts onto. You'll see what I mean after you remove the old valve. I've used Berryman's B12 intake cleaner and wire pipe cleaners in the ports to loosen and remove deposits in the past.
Also, carefully check any vacuum hoses related to the EGR for holes, damage or looseness. I would think that the mechanic would have already done this.
BTW, that P0401 code is an Exhaust Gas Recirculation - Insufficient Flow fault.
Any insight on what this means? Where to I start to diagnose the problem? I've checked the web, but haven't found anything that was more than "you have an injector problem"
came on, I did the on off on off thing to get code and it came
up P0406. Found online that this means Exhaust Gas Recirculation sensor A circuit High. I have know idea what this means. Could anyone explain this and is it costly to fix.
Thanks!!!!!
Now, what does that mean.... hmmm..... ?
This code indicates something is wrong with the heater for that O2 sensor. The heater element in the sensor could be bad; there could be a wiring/grounding problem; or whatever sends the +12V to the heater could be bad.
* On 9/04/09, 814 miles later, I took it to Emission testing, and it failed - "Test failed due to excessive OBD monitors not ready, return after the vehicle has been driven in accordance with the manufacturer drive cycle." The testing operator and the dealer told me to drive more, and I did.
* On 9/21/09, after 463 miles later, I took the van for the Emission Testing again. This time the testing was 'Aborted': "Test aborted due to excessive OBD monitors not ready, return after the vehicle has been driven in accordance to the manufacturer drive cycle." After talking with Dodge engineer, the dealer replaced anoth sensor - The Oxygen Sensor.
* On 10/22/09, after 466 miles later, I had the Emission Testing again. The test was aborted again. Due to the same 'Excessive ODB monitors not ready ....
* Then after checking the van, the dealer said the computer was defective. They ordered it and replaced it on 10/27/09. The dealer told me to drive for 50 miles and it should be fine.
* On 10/30/09, after 92 miles of driving, I took my van for the Emission testing. The test was aborted again due to the same "Excessive OBD monitors not ready, ..."
My big question is: What is wrong with my van? Right now I suspect that it might be something wrong with the Testing program itself.
You should be able to get ahold of the procedure in your owner's manual or from the dealer. If you follow that and still no luck, maybe it is the test facility. Have you gone to the same one every time? If so, try a different one.
I want to clarify that most of the mileage was on highway drives. My issue right now is that the dealer has no idea what is wrong. The dealer mechanics have contacted the Dodge co. several times, as I was told. To me, they all are just guessing. They have replaced two exhaust related sensors and a computer (maybe just a module?). Yesterday, I talked with the dealer again, and they said they have to talk to Dodge engineer again.
I also talked yesterday with a Connecticut DMV emission engineer on the phone. He said would call me and would see me at the testing station today. But so far, he has not called me yet.
Have you had any experience with testing stations that their softawre were not compatible to all kinds of cars.
Note: A few weeks ago, before the computer was replaced, a friend of mine used his tester (a $50-kind) to checked my van out after I had told him the issue. We found every thing was good, but a few days later I took the van to have the test again and it was aborted again.
I have spent more than 10 trips between the test facility and the dealer in two months. It was fortunate that I have just lost my job and had time for this headache.
Thanks again.
Your 2005 model likely uses the OBD II CAN interface, but I still would not expect there to be compatibility issues. As I recommended before, taking the van to a different testing shop could help clear that as a possible source.
Also, your dealership should be able to use a laptop-based real-time scanner to monitor the vehicle while it is in use. If a circuit is failing to set as "ready," I would think a program like that could help pinpoint the source fairly well.
When I got back home, I looked at the 'Vehicle Inspection Report'. They used PCTSI test type, instead of OBDII that the testing facility had used before.I do not understand the difference, but there is a comment at the bottom of the report:
"This vehicle is not ready to determine the status of the pollution control system and the vehicle received an alternate emissions test. On the next inspetion cycle, this readiness failure may result ina reject of the vehicle."
This means that I'm not out of the hook yet!
It is odd that something is preventing it from being in "ready "status, yet you are getting no codes indicating a bad sensor or some other fail. Perhaps monitoring your fuel economy, etc., over the next year or so versus prior (if you did that at all) will help to determine the source.
At least you can keep driving it for the time being!
I don't know where that is located on a late model 3.8L engine. I would guess it's somewhere along the intake air path, either before or after the air filter.
O2 sensors need to be at a high temperature before they start to work properly. The heater is there to warm up the 02 sensor faster than might otherwise happen, especially in cold climates.
The 02 sensor itself is probably OK, otherwise you would have seen a different or additional OBD-II code. You should plan on getting it replaced, but are probably OK for the drive to Fl.
The Speedometer will go from 65 to 20 and back to 65 while on highway (no change in actual speed or engine rpm). Does this at slower speeds too.
Trouble codes are; P0601, O2, and evap. I don't believe the first is related to other two. Also have a text description of 'internal fail check sum error' message.
Local tech seems to think it is PCM (transmission?) computer. I am under impression that there are two computers ... one for engine and one for transmission?
What say you?? (Help!)
Have the sensor replaced.