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Caravan/Voyager Engine Problems

2

Comments

  • bounyhunerbounyhuner Member Posts: 2
    i have a 96 voyager 3.0 that knocks not when i start it but about 2 3 min after and then it goes away after about 5 min but comes back sometimes when im driving .and i think im geting loss of power (its my grams van lookin at it for her) but it dont knock all the time .i drove it about 60 miles stoped reved the motor no noise. changed the oil slicked 50 it. started it no noise let it set all night and back to the same thing the motor has 100.000 miles on it oil changed every 3000 the van is ment dont know if the motor is bad (rode bearing ) or if its the crank sensor :confuse:
  • bounyhunerbounyhuner Member Posts: 2
    well i took it to 3 auto shops 1 said it was the timing chain the other said the tenchin pulley so i checked both and were good but in the course of lookin at them i did find the noise its coming out of the purge solenoid so i hope this will help some of you :) i was also told it was the motor that was bad
  • utthestautthesta Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I bought used 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan SE, on April 17, 2008 (not even a month yet) from HENDRICK DODGE : Leading Dodge Dealership in Cary, North Carolina, NC

    Almost after a week this problem is happening, it is very random. It happened 3 times. Last time it happened at 15-20 miles per hour while I was making a right turn.
    The engines shuts down and steering locks. I could have met with a major accident last time when it happened.

    Took to the dealer from where I bought, he is saying that he could not reproduce the problem, so, as far as he is concerned, there is no problem.
    But this is major safety issue, it can pose great danger since it can cause major accident.

    I also got the full extended service warranty (full bumper to bumper) from Chrysler, they are not helping me either. They are saying since this vehicle is bought not even a month back, the problem came with the vehicle, they are asking the dealer to fix it.

    Any advice?
  • ksmedicksmedic Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 dodge caravan. Wife was driving it yesterday when it experienced a loss of power and shut down while driving home. Let it sit for awhile, and it started back up. I drove it to work this morning, same thing. I had a similar problem with a 94 pontiac and it was the equivialant of a bad pickup sensor. Once the sensor cooled down, you could drive it until it got hot again and everything shut down. Relplaced the one in the pontiac and have had no problems since then. I plan on replacing the one in the van this week. Any other suggestions in case this is not the problem??? Thanks for any help you all can give me.
  • goldrenchgoldrench Member Posts: 9
    The most common problem I've seen with your symptoms indicate an impending fuel pump failure...qiuts when it gets hot, runs after it cools down.
    Bob
  • peycasspeycass Member Posts: 4
    Goes dead while driving. Will start up again. Have had it in two different shops a week at a time, and cannot find the problem. Brought it home from last shop 35 miles away and drove around town a few times. Tried to go out of town, but the vehicle jerked and then in a little bit, shut down. This was the first time for the jerking. Tried to drive on but after a few times of failing on the highway, went back home without a problem. It has a new fuel filter and pump and a sensor for crank shaft. Never had a problem with this vehicle until a couple months ago. Need help.
  • goldrenchgoldrench Member Posts: 9
    The symptoms you describe indicate a loss of fuel pressure or volume IMHO.
    I believe most Chrysler products rely on the oil pressure sending unit to power the fuel pump relay which keeps the pump running after starting the engine... a safety guard in case of an accident which would shut off the pump if the engine isn't running after an accident. There are tests which can be run to determine which is at fault, WHEN THE PROBLEM OCCURS. That being said, I'd replace Both the Oil pressure sending unit, AND the Fuel Pump relay, about $50.00 for parts. Note: Older Vans had the relay built into the ECM (Computer) and the whole thing needed to be replaced...expensive! Check with your parts supplier for listings on both parts. If the problem persists you have a bad fuel pump..."New" doesn't always mean "Good"!
    Good luck!
  • peycasspeycass Member Posts: 4
    The fuel pump relay is part of the ECM on this model. I have been told that when the technicians plugged into our computer, if the computer was bad they would not get a code. Is this true? The reason for not finding the problem. Thank you so much for your information. PEYCASS
  • goldrenchgoldrench Member Posts: 9
    Well, yes and no. Some Chrysler products are difficult to make "talk" but there are ways if you have the right equipment and knowledge to use it. Very few shops have have both...WE do.
    Anyway, from what you said and describe at this point, I'd have to say you're experiencing a cam sensor, crank sensor or both failure when the engine reaches operating temperature on the warmest side.
    Here's how to do a simple test: Take a bottle of ice water with you on a test drive and when it (the car) quits douse the sensors one at a time and bingo! If it starts and runs normally you"ve found the problem. We've learned the hard way to replace both, even if only one is bad. If you need more you can e-mail me from our website www.goldenruleauto.com

    Bob
  • peycasspeycass Member Posts: 4
    Where is the cam sensor located on this model? Peycass
  • vade2x2vade2x2 Member Posts: 3
    I have the same problem. I have a 97 plymouth voyager with the same # 5 cylinder compression. I don't think it's the rings either. A friend told me either a stuck valve, push rod or lifter. My van has 175,000 miles and I do not want to spend the money to find out what is wrong unless the repair will be minimal. I have been inquiring on the net but with no luck. You are the second person I have found that has the same problem. The van still runs, but stalls a lot when idling under power. I'm always putting it in neutral when I have to come to a stop. Have you found out anything?
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Which engine? 3.0, 3.3, 3.8?
  • vade2x2vade2x2 Member Posts: 3
    3.0 !!
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    "I have the same problem. I have a 97 plymouth voyager with the same # 5 cylinder compression. I don't think it's the rings either. A friend told me either a stuck valve, push rod or lifter. My van has 175,000 miles and I do not want to spend the money to find out what is wrong unless the repair will be minimal. I have been inquiring on the net but with no luck. You are the second person I have found that has the same problem. The van still runs, but stalls a lot when idling under power. I'm always putting it in neutral when I have to come to a stop. Have you found out anything?"

    Okay, having a 3.0 liter engine means that you have the Mitsusquishy engine, not the best of the three V6s available for the minivans. The good news is that the lower end of the engine (i.e. the block, crank, pistons and rings) are pretty robust, however, the upper end is highly suspect. That you have no compression on the #5 cylinder means to me that there is a very high likelihood that you need to have the heads reconditioned. Unless you do the work yourself, you’re probably looking at well over $1,000 for the job.

    Sorry to be the bearer of the bad news.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • vade2x2vade2x2 Member Posts: 3
    thanks shipo for the info. I will start looking around for estimates !!
  • bigdopebigdope Member Posts: 1
    I want to start out by thanking everyone for all of the great commentary and advice for questions already posed. PLEASE HELP ME!!
    Anyway,
    I have a 3.3 6 cyl. that suddenly began knocking and sputtering last week after getting a tank of NOCO gas here in Buffalo. Heavy wet carbon shooting out of tailpipe leaving deposits on driveway. Loses power as I step on the gas and starts smoking heavily out of exhaust at 4k rpms in park gear. My buddy at Midas said no diagnostic code was popping up, and since then no engine light has come on. Took it to a local Dodge dealer who said it was running lean. They drained the tank, flashed the computer for some sort of combustion reset and sent me on my way 300.00 lighter. Nothing has changed and losing more power now as I push on gas.
    Any ideas??

    Thanks,
    Mark
  • calishayecalishaye Member Posts: 6
    hi, I have a problem with my engine stalling when I'm at a complete stop. It always starts right back up and only stalls when I'm at a complete stop, such as at a stoplight or stop sign. It only stalls when the air temp is at a certain temp that I can tell. I first noticed problems last fall, then during the winter I had no problems with it at all. Now that it's warming up, it's beginning to act up. I first noticed it acting up again after I used the air conditioning for the first time this season. Also, it idles rough, and if I am driving for a while, it starts to run rough, and if I press on the accelerator, there is a lag time before it speeds up, it acts as though it wants to quit. sometimes when I am pressing on the gas and I come to a stop, it jerks. No one seems to know what's wrong with it. Any help would be much appreciated.
  • teacherguyteacherguy Member Posts: 1
    the engine on this van with 155000 miles lost power while driving down the road. After shutting it off, it would not turn over. Battery, altenator are ok. A mechanic saie the engine was seized. The engines fluid levels were all normal. No oil leak,only a slight tapping noise before this happened. Did anyone else have a similar problem and or a solution?
    Thanks,
  • trailblazer250trailblazer250 Member Posts: 1
    I went to change my water pump on my 01 voyager and now my timing is messed up. Can anyone help me find the timing marks and what to do next? Help Please.
  • freckels30freckels30 Member Posts: 1
    i have a clicking noise in the front end when i put the van in gear, before i release the brake pedal any help would be appreciatd
  • faaacyfaaacy Member Posts: 1
    bigdope, IF you find an answer pleeease let me know.
    I believe i have the same prob. 03 Caravan started missing(sputtering) and smoking.
    Runs poor. #3 and #6 cylinders missing. This came out of nowhere while driving home 1 rainy day. No help from my mechanic. fuel drained, plugs changed etc.
    ANY advise appreciated.
  • pworkmasterpworkmaster Member Posts: 2
    What has been the history of these engines with regard to dependability? I am looking at a 1998 Caravan with 69,000 miles on it. It runs smoothly but I have heard that there have been problems with oil blow out. Any thoughts??
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Our former 1998 Grand Caravan went 170,000 miles with very few repairs (starter, window motor, door switch, headlight bulbs, and muffler and tail pipe), however, it had a Chrysler motor in it instead of the 3.0 Mitsubishi. While some folks are able to get good mileage out of the 3.0, many other folks report a number of oil related issues such as external leaking and consumption through the valve seals. Personally I'd avoid a 3.0 liter van and look for one with either the 3.3 or 3.8 (virtually identical engines except for the displacement) engine.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • pworkmasterpworkmaster Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, Shippo. So the Mitsubishi motor is found in the Dodge? How many miles can one of thes vans be expected to go? With 69,000 miles on it now it would appear to be a good value at a price of $1800. What do you think?
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Not being a fan of the 3.0 Mitsubishi motor, I'd take a pass on that van and look for one that has the 3.3 liter Chrysler motor instead.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,788
    I will agree with that. I have noticed a few issues like that being mentioned about the 3.0, but nothing so far regarding engine internals with the 3.3/3.8.

    Now having owned one (3.8L with 213,000 miles), I think the major weakness with these vans is their electrical systems. So, you will undoubtedly run into some minor (and, perhaps major) issues, such as those Shipo listed in his original response, regardless of the drivetrain, so you might as well hedge your bets on the engine. At 213K, the engine in mine is as strong as ever with no oil leaks and it purrs like a kitten.

    At $1800, there may well be some existing issues with it even if it is low miles.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • tjoktjok Member Posts: 3
    I had a Plymouth Voyager with the 3.0 that went 135000 miles before passing oil through the valve seals. I just bought a Dodge Caravan with the 3.0 and 88000 miles. At 69000 miles, you should get 50000 miles before oil problems. 50000 miles for $1800 isn't bad. I am a fan of the 3.0. They run smooth and have good torque.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Then there are some of us who wouldn't touch a 3.0 van even if it was free. Why? Because the 3.3 and 3.8 liter twins are easily as smooth, significantly more powerful, and typically go an easy quarter of a million miles with no oil control issues (or any other internal issues as well). Case in point, our two 3.8 liter vans have over a combined 300,000 miles, and they both typically consume about a quart of oil every 7,500 miles, just like they did the day we drove them off the showroom floor.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • tjoktjok Member Posts: 3
    I own a 2005 T&C with a 3.3. 52000 miles. The engine is smooth and strong, except that it has this nasty rattle at idle. This rattle is getting more annoying by the day. I don't think I'm the only one experiencing this. If you know what the cause of this rattle is and how to fix it, please let me, and all the others know. This engine may run a quarter million miles, but I'd rather have one that runs 150000 miles without the rattle. I don't think I'm goin to keep this great engine another year. I don't think I can put up with a quarter million miles of rattle. If you know what the fix is for this 'common rattle', please let us all know. This 'common rattle' is really getting annoying.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    I seriously doubt that the rattle has anything to do with the engine at all. Off the top of my head I'd suggest that you look at the clutch on the alternator, and/or the serpentine belt, and/or the idler pulley, and failing that, make yourself a "Redneck Stethoscope" (i.e. a cut off piece of garden hose), put one end up to an ear, and slowly move the other end around the path of the serpentine belt until you discover the source of the noise.

    As for there being a "common rattle", I'm a moderator on a site that is dedicated to these vans and I've never once heard of such a rattle, so I'm thinking that it isn't all that common.

    Keep us posted on what you discover.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • tjoktjok Member Posts: 3
    I went through all of that. I removed the serpentine belt which elimitates all accessories, water pump, etc. The noise is still there. Long story short, I think the problem is in the valve train. Bent push rod, collapsed lifter, broken rocker pedestal, lack of oil to the top of the engine, etc.. The next step will be to remove the valve covers and take a look. I don't have the time to be doing these things.

    I have listened to this engine for hours. This rattle is coming from within the engine. If you do some searching, you will find that many people have reported a rattle at idle in the 3.3 and 3.8.

    My point is that I had a 3.0 and it ran great. The 3.0 will have oil control problems at 150000 miles on. But up to that 150000 miles my 3.0 ran great. I would drive another 3.0
  • goldrenchgoldrench Member Posts: 9
    I have 2 of those vans in my fleet. They both have a timing chain rattle which is common and have had this noise for 2 years. It hasn't changed or gotten worse since then.
    Just my 2 cents worth...and I own a shop.
    www.goldenruleauto.com
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    If, as goldrench says, your hearing the timing chain rattle, then yes there is a very subtle rattle from the chain, and that rattle is something that a timing belt style of engine like the 3.0 cannot make. So take your choice, a chain that makes a little noise and lasts for the life of the engine, or a belt that needs to constantly be changed. I'll take the chain.
  • jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    What transmission does the 3.0 liter have, 3 or 4 speed automatic?
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    As with too many other things, it depends. Some 3.0 liter vans had the 3-Speed, some had the 4-Speed. While I've never been in a 3-Speed van, I believe I've heard that the display for the gear selector is a bit different. For the 4-Speed vans, they have three forward gear selections that go like this: D, 3, L, and obviously if a van has a 3-Speed transmission, that display wouldn't make any sense.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • lanpherlanpher Member Posts: 2
    does a 1998 voyager 3.3 have a timing chain
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Yes, the 3.3 and 3.8 liter twins both have timing chains that are typically good for the life of the engine. :)
  • raminator25raminator25 Member Posts: 1
    Hi im new to this forum & i got some ???s. I have a 05 dodge caravan 3.3L And from take off at a stop i can hear a knockin sound. So i turned the key off and on 3 times and got a code reading PO522 Meaning Engine oil Pressure Sensor. I looked it up and couldnt really find anything on it so would any of u guys know this & would it have something to do with my little knocking problem...? Thanks
  • 15651irene15651irene Member Posts: 6
    I have 2000 3.3 Caravan with rattle noise in engine compartment, after i replace belt tension, valve lifters, timming chain and finally the fly wheel crack that make the noise. So I suggest you might want to replace the fly wheel, i know it a big decision to make.
  • 15651irene15651irene Member Posts: 6
    It the fly wheel crack, replace it and you will not regret.
  • kobiegkobieg Member Posts: 1
    Hi from sunny SA. I have a 2004 Grand Voyager 2.5 diesel with 140 000km (87000 miles) on the clock. Had all its services at the dealer. Never had problems with oil leaks or run dry. Only overheated once because of cracked water container. While driving I heard the engine sound became louder than usual. I drove 25 miles like that to my house and by that time there was a distinct "clacking" noise with each revolution as the engine revs. The car is now at the dealership and without having opened the engine, they suspect that the bottom bearing/s failed. Is this possible to happen without warning and would I have been able to drive the car like that. Are there anything specific I can ask them to look for. I don't know much about engines.
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    My wife drives our 2007 DGC with the 3.8L engine. We bought it used 2 years ago and it now has 59,600 miles on it.

    I started the van up the other day (Dec 22) to take it to get new tires. The car had been sitting in the driveway all day, temperature around 30 deg F. Immediately upon starting, I heard a loud bang, sort of like a belt coming off. I checked the serpentine belt and it was fine. The engine ran rough for a few seconds, like a cylinder was missing, then smoothed out. The CEL came on, but then cleared itself a day or two later. I pulled the codes anyway and got a P0306-"cylinder 6 misfire".

    Now, whenever we start the van up from a cold soak (overnight), there's a slight stumbling/missing that clears up in few seconds. This only occurs after sitting for several hours - it does not happen when you turn the engine off and back on again in a few minutes. Also, there's a ticking noise from the passenger side of the engine - where the serpentine belt is. The CEL is off, and I have not read the OBD-II port to see if any codes have been stored since I cleared them out.

    I'm thinking maybe a valve lifter went bad (#6 cylinder?), in that it drains it's oil when then engine sits and needs to be pumped back up again when the engine starts.

    Anyone else experience this? I've heard good things, longevity-wise about the 3.8L, and hope it's not a lifter.
  • trip1976trip1976 Member Posts: 1
    It has the 4 speed. As far as past problems it has none. I have replaced the spark plugs and wires. Still does the samething
  • musicvanmusicvan Member Posts: 2
    i have a clicking sound like you mentioned, it started soon after an oil change. Now my CEL comes on every once in awhile, while driving it will sputter and almost feel like it going to stall. I got a cylinder 5 misfire error code. HELP please... I need to fix this. Thanks in advance
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    A couple of comments:

    - Diagnosing noises, CELs and misfires over the internet is difficult, to say the least.

    - To opine any further I'll need to know the year of your van and which engine it has.

    - With the above two points said, when you get a CEL then the best thing to do is to have the "codes" read by a shop in your area with a OBD-II code reader (virtually any shop will have one).

    - Of the noises I described two and a half years back, which sounds most like what you're hearing?

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • bbarefootbbarefoot Member Posts: 1
    edited May 2010
    i have 2001 voyager 3.3 v6 #2cyl wasnt firing replaced coil pack plugs wires runs better but still has miss at low speed and idle any similar poblems its been on 2 different computers no codes no check engine light
  • hawk1018hawk1018 Member Posts: 1
    When driving slow or attempting to maintain speed it seems like I am loosing power or like the engine may stall. When accelerating it seems to be fine though. I just had my 60000 mile service done. Also recently the check engine light came on but it is no longer coming on so I don't know how to get the error codes. Any Ideas would be appreciated. Also not sure if it matters but the shop that did my 60000 mile service put 5w30 in instead of 5w20 and I had driven about 300 miles before I noticed...mainly because the oil light came on and the van stalled but started back up fine. I had them drain and refill w/ 5w20.
  • skykingdumb1skykingdumb1 Member Posts: 6
    gonna try again,, no ans. last time. Van drives, runs good ,then starts to buck. New fuel pump,filter, sock, relay. It does this until you're about to go home with it, and then it runs perfect. Doesn't quit, but idles erratically, and sounds like popping noise under hood. Van is my handicapped veteran buddys. Help????? He needs the wheels.
  • skatefrenchskatefrench Member Posts: 1
    I would check the plug wires for cracks. Sometimes shorting wires can cause the kind of problem you described.
  • drew1985drew1985 Member Posts: 2
    Ok i have a 97 Plymouth Grand Voyager and it has 225xxx on it ....was running great last year untill the fall and then it started to shut off while we were driving down the road, but it would always start right back up....so we didn't do anything about it. Well now it is having trouble starting at all. One day it will drive like a champ :D , then the next day it wont start :confuse: , then the next day it starts up first time :D .....well now it wont start at all. We just put in new plugs, new wires, new ASD relay, Fuel Pump relay, and EATX relay, oil just changed, just had injectors and vacuum lines cleaned out, and a new battery. So now i don't know what to check, I thought it was the relays but they're new, it is getting fuel pressure, the injectors had power, but when i checked the coil i did what Chilton said to do but i didn't seem to get any resistance, could the coil pack be the problem, i hate to spend another 50 just as a guess.....any answers would be great, thank you....
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