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I have the same problem with our 07 Odyssey. How much was the repair and did u have any other more issues with the same problem?
Have taken the van to the dealer twice, and again told battery charge is fine, alarm shouldn't be going off, presently no way to repair defect etc.
For us, this most annoying loud alarm goes off as 10 beeps virtually every time we open the driver door or turn off the ignition. Why on earth there is such an excessively persistent frequent loud alarm for such a trivial problem defies logic.
We are praying for a recall to fix this. Otherwise I can guarantee we won't be owning this van for long.
2011 Honda Odyssey low battery defect
I have a 2005 Ody EX. My hi beams work but lo beams don't. Fuses have been checked and all are okay, but I am not getting any voltage to the lo beam socket. I hear the relay click on in the underhood box when turning on the lo beams but still no voltage for the lights. Does anyone know where the headlight auto-off timer is located?
Thanks.
1) no load battery draw=0.4 Amps (already stated)
2) Alarm system will not set
3) Drivers side (only) sliding door will not open automatically
4) Rear window wiper will not operate
5) Rear dome light will not go on when tailgate is opened (switches correct)
6) When driving at night with headlights on, dash lights flash between dim and bright.
Otherwise vehicle drives properly. All these problems are somehow related but I cannot figure out why. Any ideas?
If no power to lo beams and if you hear clicking in the Relay Control Module (under the hood by the passenger side) when you turn on the lo beams, then your headlight/turn signal combo switch is most likely good. Problem would be the lo beam relay in the RCM. There was a related TSB (05-034) (http://www.skidmore.edu/~pdwyer/e/files/tsb/a05-034.pdf)
Note: It is difficult to remove the bottom cover without breaking the tabs. Maybe that's why they make you buy the whole assembly.
Hope this helps. As a quick fix so you can drive at night, you should be able to use the high beam relay (if your hi beams work). Remove the hi beam fuses and jumper the the high beam fuse + side to the lo beam fuse + side. Kept left to left and right to right.
It looks like the snap tabs will need to be broken or is it better just to use a dremel to cut off the rectangular box above the relays. Any sensitive components to watch out for?
I literally purchased this car (EX-L RES) on April 1, 2011. WTF?!?!?!?!
Could you point me to some web page that explain those hundred mA? That's the issue I am experiencing. I lost 2 batteries within 9k miles. I insert my multimeter and it max out the 100mA reading. I think this is way too high when the car is off.
The battery has a capacity of 50ah. If it's draining at 100mA, it will drain half of the battery (which make it very hard, if not impossible to start the engine) within 250 hours. I don't think Honda engineers are so stupid to have those kind of parameters in their minds.
Did you figure out what caused that 0.4A draw? I have the same issue with my 07. Thanks.
Final solution- After dealer had it and drove it everyday, the problem was discovered- no communication to power control module (PCM). They performed a " No communication test" and found a Faulty Main Relay!! All I can say is that the FP# on the invoice is 39400-S84-003. $64.78 for the part and, no surprise these days- labor was $230.00. Before you have it replaced by a dealer, see if the part can be ordered and install it yourself or have your local mechanic do it for you.
We you able to fix yours?
Thanks.
I hope this helps!
I plan to take the van to Honda Dealer but I have limited confidence they will find a solution. Any suggestions on what I should suggest to the mechanic? Communications test to power control unit, etc?
Mahalo
I will get the Faulty Main Relay checked. Do you know how the dealer conducted a "No communication test"?
I haven't had the problem since I last posted. The only thing I did was really maintenance on the battery. I think our battery wasn't getting it's full charge as it should have been. The water cells in the battery were half empty, so after filling them back up to correct levels, and driving a couple of days to the battery could catch up on charging, I haven't noticed the problem even once.
Methinks there are a lot of different scenarios that can cause this. Good luck to everyone looking for a fix.
1) 4 trips to Honda dealership only to find nothing wrong w/ the car. $$$$
2) 1 new battery (replacement) at Sams' club (free)
3) $3.99 new grounding connector for the negative wire on battery
4) $15 to install new battery connector
5) Being able to figure out the problem yourself without any Honda help- PRICELESS!!!
FYI: the battery I'd gotten from Sams (Energizer) had a lot of problems (the associate at Sams told me that a lot of people were bringing them back due to premature failure)- so now I've gotten a new battery (Duracel). Also if you haven't already checked the connections on the battery terminals (the wire actually holding on the ends) I'd check to see if they come off easily or not. In my case they did at Sam's- hence the new connectors. We'll see if this fixes the problem.
1. Honda Vans are highly priced than other minivans in the same class. Why?? They hold their value very well. That means for the same amount of money you would get a newer and low mirage option.
2. I would rather buy an older vehicle that would not tie me in a loan for the nest 3-5 yrs. in other words by the time you get a return on the money you invested, the van will have lost value prestige etc.
3. I could go back to 2005 model and get one with even better mirage for $2000 or so cheaper.
I have a 2000, w/ 176000 Miles I bought for $3500 2yrs ago. The Van is good, and every tax time I give it around $500 for whatever it need. No issues.