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Chrysler Pacifica Gas Mileage
Hi - I and likely others are interested in hearing - what is your current Pacifica gas mileage? Ours is 14 City, 16 Hwy, 15 Combined - far below what was promised. Please let everyone know Year, City MPG, Hwy MPG, Combined MPG. Thanks!
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'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Hwy 19
City 16
OUCH!!
I leased a 2006 Pacifica in November 2006. According to the trip thing on the dash, I am currently getting 13.8 average daily millage. I has read 13.8 since the 1st day that I drove it out of the lot. It never changes. But, I am not satisfied. Thank GOD that they would only give me a 2 yr lease.
Does anyone know if maybe the dash reader is stuck and how can I reset it?
THANKS
maverick, how many miles did it have when you got it?
and, really, number of miles don't even matter. It could have sat still at the dealership at some point idling for hours (effectively registering 0 mpg). That will prevent you from getting the mileage number to raise for a LONG time.
But, forget the reading, what mileage do you ACTUALLY get? You have calculated it ... haven't you?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
NOT GOOD
personally, if i was confident it wasn't my driving or WHERE i drive that caused such poor mileage, I'd at least try resetting the ECU (disconnect the battery for a half hour). Then start all over again. If mileage is still bad, well, I would complain to the service department, but I'm sure they'd say its all find and dandy.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
You NEED to use the cruise control and you will get much better fuel economy. The car's ECU does a much better job managing load then you can with your foot.
The Pacific is really no different then any other car. They suck in stop and go traffic and around town. I do get as low as 12 mpg around town.
My 2003 Saab 9-3 runs 32 - 34 on the highway and 15 mpg around town with a typical average of 26 mpg.
My 500 hp Mustang runs 21 mpg on the highway and about 12 mpg around town.....much less when having fun - lol
As far as the fuel computer, simply press the reset button twice and it will reset right away. These devices are pretty acurate, but expect them to read about 5% high. They do NOT actually measure fuel comsumption, but rather use the fuel tables which are built into the ECU to perform an estimate.
All fuel injector cars have fuel injectors. They are rated to deliver a certain amount of fuel per pulse. As the car adds load, the frequency and length of the pulses increases. The car's ECU makes this determination based on throttle position (TPS), air flow (MAF sensor), and finally the O2 sensor.
The O2 sensors determine if the car is running rich or lean, and adds fuel accordingly. The mpg computer assumes that the correct air fuel ratio is being maintained by the O2 sensors. But, the O2 sensors use narrow-band technology and are not as accurate as they could be. As such, the car "thinks" it is running say 13.2:1 ratio, when in fact, it might be running 12.5:1 and as such, you loose fuel economy directly proportional to the difference in the desired O2 level.
The way to fix this is to have the car tuned on a dyno by a qualified tuner assuming that the O2 sensors are working properly. The tuner will install a wide-band O2 sensor and run the car under hard load. The tuner can also adjust the air fuel ratio and adjust timing to get the proper tune that you want. You can either add hp, or increase fuel economy, but generally not both. The cost is about $500 - $700....it is not cheap. Or, you can simply have the air fuel ration checked for about $70.
If you have seen your mpg drop over time and your car has miles on it, the culprit is probably the O2 sensors. I have not replaced one on a Pac, but it is litterally a 20 minute job on my Mustang and the sensors are a few hundred $ usually. Always buy them from the OEM....the after-market ones usually don't work very well.
Hope this helps.
As well as uneven and premature tread wear.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Edit: This is from tirerack's site:
A tire's "maximum inflation pressure" may be different that the assigned tire pressure used to rate the tire's "maximum load". For example, while a P-metric sized standard load tire's maximum load is rated at 35 psi, many P-metric sized standard load performance and touring tires are designed to contain up to 44 psi (and are branded on their sidewalls accordingly). This additional range of inflation pressure (in this case, between 36 and 44 psi) has been provided to accommodate any unique handling, high speed and/or rolling resistance requirements determined by the tire and vehicle manufacturers. These unique tire pressures will be identified on the vehicle placard in the vehicle's owner's manual.
So, what they are saying is, due to changes when the air heats up, rolling resistance, etc, a tire that is inflated to 35 psi COLD can handle more. But inflating to 40 psi COLD would then surpass the tire's manufactured limits when heated up and travelling at 70 mph with a full load.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
BTW, you will be equally ticked about the Highlander Hybrid. While you will do better, plenty of people aggrevated about them as well when it comes to not matching the claimed MPG.
I am just not convinced about Hybrids in general. Technology is just not there yet.....not worth the price to me.
farout
2005 Touring, AWD highway I get 18.5. there is a small portion of stop and go (bumper to bumper).
Its a decent car, good in snow, bad on gas. Front end is getting clunky, lets hope its not a ball joint.
Also is due for a tune up, and a timing belt. (80K miles). Just put on new tires by cooper, WOW much better than the junk stock tires.
farout
Most of these devices work by "calculating" the fuel consumption rather then measuring it. I don't know how the Pac works. On most cars the computer calculates fuel consumption by looking at fuuel injector pulse widths. Assuming the car has an accurate O2 sensor (which narror-band units are not the best), you can get a pretty close approximation.
The 6 speed helps a bunch on the newer ones I would imagine.
Glad to see a PAC owner returning again for a new one.
How do you like the new motor and the 6 speed? Do you have a FWD or an AWD?
On my Mustang I routinely run my pressure in the rear tires at about 26 psi as I need all I can to get traction. When drag racing, I drop it to 18 lbs and pump the fronts up to about 42.
The lower the pressure, the larger the footprint.
Lower pressure equals softter ride and better traction. Higher pressure equals firmer ride and better fuel economy. You just need to choose your battle and decide what you want.
I will let you all know what is happening later after the dealer gets back to me. Yes I could not pass up the deal they were giving me to get me oput of my upside down 05 car with 89k on it. However the car did run great, no issues, and was a touring with full leather and most of the amenities. I will probably do this one like I did the last one and put in some add-ons. I added satellite and the DVD player and drop down scrren. This one comes with Sirius satellite so I am set there. Still debating on upgrading the seat upholstery to the comfortable leather. Don't have sunroof, but could get that installed - probably won't as, i really did not use it at all. I kinda opened the moon roof shade, but ended up not even using that. This has more headroom so I am fine.
The Options I really want for this car are:
Automatice Temperature Control
Uconnect
Multiswitch with both fog and Automatic headlights
DRLs activated
I also looked up what a 2007 Service Manual on CD would cost and it was $120, up 30 bucks from 2005.
Dunno if i want to spend that much on a car with a lifetime wraparound warranty :confuse:
i have about 2500 miles on it now
Your mileage matches mine, so I dunno what the problem is. It fits in the EPA estimates. But ours is AWD.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
However if you have the 4.L with the 6 speed automatic then the mileage is not the greatest. If this is what you have check the tire pressure, and I would suggest a good brand of 87 octane gas, not E-10, avoid any bio fuel! After the oil change you might see some difference, maybe. However the dealer you bought this from should have had all this done befor you bought it! Let us know how you make out! Welcome to the forum!
farout
farout
Does the 4.0L require 89 octane or an I get away with 87? (that extra dime/gal is really annoying me :mad: )?
Right now with 116,000 miles on my '04, if I really work at it, I can get 23mpg on the highway. Will I do any better with the 4.0L and the 6 speed transmission?
All thoughts appreciated...
Paul in Southern NJ
I would think the 08 would be a good bet.
farout
My plans are to locate a new Limited '08. I do not want a used one.
Are you sure about the 4L/6 speed combo in the Limited if its AWD? The way I read the Chrysler bragsheet, thats the only transmission that comes with the 4L. Still haven't decided whether I need the AWD..... my '04 doesn't have it and I seemed to do pretty well without it.
On the other hand, the person I carpool to work with has a Ford 500 with the AWD, and he loves it and says he can feel it kick in on wet pavement! I can't tell.
Can you tell when you change from FWD to AWD? Is it noticable? How can you tell it is actually doing anything?
Thanks....
Paul
As for the AWD, my mpg is the sme as those that have the FWD. I don't think there is any change in AWD as it is always in all wheel drive. We live on a steep hill that has lots of gravel (large rocks) and dirt and mud and and ice sometimes in the winter. We had Jeep Liberty's before, and the PAC AWD does the job just as well except we are not getting beat up so bad! If the AWD was not working we would never make it up in the snow and ice.
You may have heard but Chrysler LLC was down 23% in sales last month, that hurt them bad. Most likely because that the PAC has about stopped being made (somethim this month) and there is a 77 day supply of vehicles and perhaps more than that with the PAC AWD you can get a super good deal now.
Last August we got $7,000. total off and 6.9% for 72 months. So we feel we got a good deal. That with the Lifetime Powertrain Warranty and we got the Max Care Chrysler Wrap Warranty and this just might be the last car we need to buy. (we are retired) Already owning a PAC and if you are getting 23 mpg you will surely do better with one of the new 08. The power of the 4.L is great and it goes quick and smooth. Hope this helps, let me know how it turns out.
farout
@ 45mph 33 mpg
@ 55mph 30.5 mpg
@ 62 mph 29.1 mpg
@ 70 mph 27.0 mpg
Cyclone fuel savers are completely, 100% bogus. First, someone has to prove that simply taking air and swirling it does anything, THEN you need to explain how the swirling effect is then able to bend around corners and angles in the upper intake. Let us not forget too that the air enters the combustion chambers by way of valves which open and close. If you have ever seen what an upper intake looks like, you would not have installed one.
In fact, these devices can actually make complete havick of your MAF. The MAF is designed to measure airflow in the intake. It is imperative that the flow be laminar in order for them to function properly and the sample tube is designed as such.
As to your data, unless you were driving on a flat surface for many miles at these speeds and verified with fill-ups, the data is not very accurate. The MPG reading uses data provided by the ECU off of the fuel tables. In the event that the MAF is now reading correctly, it is entirely possible that the car is now running incredibly lean.