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'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
and, if you don't mind me asking, what did they give you for the Pac? What were the details on yours again?
I'm surprised you didn't give another service department a shot, but you did what you were happy with, so that's all that matters.
We still really like our Pac, but we won't be buying it at the end of the lease. 9 months to go and it goes back to Chrysler. Sometimes the actions of the transmission make me worry. That's the primary reason. Second is the gas mileage. We just aren't happy getting 18-19 mpg. Not that this second reason is a complaint. We knew we'd get around that when we bought it. But our priorities (not to mention the price of gas) have changed since then.
Based on these posts, I did check the oil recently. The car doesn't burn any, as far as I can tell. I'll check again closer to oil change time, however.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I WARN anyone buying a car to stay away from Chrysler - RUN FOR YOUR LIFE !!!! Odessa TX
Problems: engine sluggish
car jerks when changes gears
engine light comes on frequently
makes rattling noise from engine - sounds like flapping
steering is loose
steering pulls to the right
will jump into over drive for no reason - nearly hit other cars
oil pouring from engine
rattling noise has grown worse with every visit to dealership
stalling over and over
problems starting - make several attempts
cruise control works off and on, loses speed and kicks in over drive
for no reason - dealership continues to claim there is no problem.
NOTE: Recent problems, car is at dealership - Just to TRYING and get HELP
1. MAKES THE SAME RATTLING NOISE AS THE 1ST TIME I BROUGHT
IT IN FOR REPAIRS
2. KICKS INTO OVER DRIVE WHEN USING CRUISE CONTROL
3. KICKS INTO OVER DRIVE WHEN NOT USING CRUISE CONTROL
4. KICKS INTO OVER DRIVE WHEN SLOWING WITH BRAKES
a. HAVE TO SLAM ON BREAKS SEVERAL TIMES
5. USING EXCESSIVE GAS
6. JERKS WHEN CHANGING GEARS
I WAS SLOWING AT AN INTERSECTION WITH A CAR IN FRONT OF ME. AS I NEARED THE CAR IN FRONT OF ME MY CAR KICKED INTO OVER DRIVE AND I NEARLY RAN INTO IT. I HAD TO SLAM ON MY BREAKS 2 TIMES TO MAKE IT STOP.
I am not blaming the dealership - I blame Chrysler who acts as though it is MY PROBLEM....
please email me at msnelsonmab@yahoo.com
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I have a 500 hp Mustang......it never burns oil. I have had cars with 100k miles...that never burn oil.
Get a lawyer and and utilize the lemon law. If your car has been into the shop more then 30 days in a year, you qualify, or have returned more then 4 times for the same problem.
I used the lemon law on a Chrysler back in 1992. I had the car for two years and got all my money back plus interest.
I have been driving Chryslers ever since actually, because my company uses them as company cars. The list includes, Intrepids, Caravans, and Magnums. Never had problems with any of them except they go through brakes too fast which I blame on the cheap brakes Firestone uses that my employer insists on installing.
BTW, I also own a 2007 Pacifica. The 2007's come with a lifetime Power Train warranty and the car has the much better 4.0L motor. I sure hope I have better luck then you folks have had on the '05's.
You all are thowing 1000's of dollars at what a $1 product can do. I sound like a oxymoron to you right now, but YOU WILL THANK ME LATER. I had the same problem of oil consumption in my PAC '05. Saw the same oil build up.
Simple Solution.
1) Change your Oil !!!
2) Buy any additive oil "lubricator" product and add it to your motor oil when its WARM!!!.
The product I added is "Howes Lubricator Miracle Master" ENGINE BLOCK SEALER & CONDITIONER. It's a 12 oz bottle for 89 cents. But like I said ANY lubricator product can do. And you DO NOT have to do this at every oil change. I have done it twice and have since seen a tremendous difference in engine performance and oil consumption. Can be used on Gas or Diesel Engines.
Thank me later :shades:
I find it hard to believe that they aren't around. My dealer told me it is back ordered through Chrysler till at least June! I have been waiting since early April! Sad thing is I need an oil change now. At about 500 miles a week it adds up quickly. Once they remove that plug they say they won't be able to close it up again!
If anyone knows where I can obtain a new oil pan I would be very grateful.
Thanks in advance...
---Paul in Southern NJ
You can buy an oil separator which will actually capture the oil prior to putting back into the intake. These can be built with parts frm Home Depot for about $20 or you can buy complete for $60 to $100. Not sure if anyone has built any for PAC's, but the concept is the same no matter the car.
The separator will actually capture the oil so you can actually measure the loss. I have one for my Mustang. The motor is all stock, but the car make 450 fwhp which is nearly double what the car made from the factory. The separator allows me to do two things:
1 - Establish a baseline for oil loss (which is currently very little). That way, if the amount of oil increases, I will know if I have a problem and then would need to perform a compression test.
2 - Burning oil can caused knock and ping when pushing 10 psi of boost on a car like this. So, separating the oil prevents this issue.
Good luck to the rest of you - if only Chrysler had acted in the best interests of its customers, I might still be driving the Pac...
Geoff
http://home.comcast.net/~rjv76/site/
You do need to check oil levels every time you fill the gas tank, I am sure that this advice is within the owner's manual. You need to check tire pressures frequently too!
This isn't to say that you need to like the exercise, rather that it is a function of ownership and maintenance of the vehicle. It may be too tiresome for you to own this vehicle!
That said, I have posted here about my own 2005 Pacifica oil consumption issues and there is NO Doubt that Chrysler is hiding from their responsibilities to step up and claim this oil over-consumption as a function of poor engineering or faulty engine construction, you can take your pick...
I solved the situation after running around with the local dealers over the issue by trading the vehicle back and buying a 2008 T&C van with a strong trade-in value. It is not an ideal situation and I liked some aspects of the vehicle, but frankly, there was more wrong with the ride handling too, that I decided to move on -
Sooner or later, you will decide to move on, you need to make that choice!
The whole incident is painful and egregious corporate behavior, especially as I had a VW New Beetle with oil overuse and VW absolutely fixed that!
You can not fight them if they are intransigent, but you could hire big city lawyers and start a class action suit.... maybe...
I got 46K miles use in less than three years and took the exit, receiving 13,5K for the trade on a $29K cost... good considering they started out at 11,2!
Good Luck,
Geoff
Thanks.
A couple issues we are having is that we had brought the car back to the dealership for its last oil change, and one of the very bright guys over there had miscalculated our oil change sticker by 2000 miles!!! We were over our change by what we thought was 500 miles, and came to find out it was really 2,500.
We are still under 36,000 miles on this car, and from what we are reading, this should be a warrenty issue. ( we did also purchase the extended warrenty). We were just denied this morning, and don't know what to do. We live in a small town in Colorado, that doesn't have many dealerships, can we bring this car somewhere else and try and get it covered. Like I said, our dealership is not owning up, and when my husband went to meet with the mechanic, they had taken the sticker off the window!! We are not sure where to go from here, but obviously many of you are getting this covered under warrenty. I would appreciate any advice
I have been reading these posts for months, and no one is being helped from Chrysler. I spoke to the dealer, the dealer sent me to customer service, they don't handle technical issues, I need to speak to STAR for technical issues, and only dealers are allowed to speak with star, and so on and so on. Here what I found out so far. Everyone on this post needs to:
A) request from the dealer to speak to the District Manager (DMM) and file a complaint.
File a CAR (pronounced care) case with a level 2 support (USA rep not India) rep 800-992-1997.
C) I got the actual star#, call them everyday and complain. 800-850-Star.
D) Lastly, get a ASE certified mechanic to confirm oil consumption issue, and file a small case law suit. It's simple and each case has to be represented by Chrysler in every county/state. This ill cause Chrysler to find a simpler resolution then paying attorneys to run around the country.
By the way I to have a 2005 Pacifica touring with 2 QTS of oil consumption every 3K miles. I am on step D next......LOL
The dealer was forced to offer me a superior trade-in value of $13,500 for my 2005 Touring with DVD and 46,000 miles towards a 2008 T&C Touring which has been trouble free so far.
Revenge is knowing that our trade-in is still sitting unsold on the dealers lot now marked down to $13,495 !!
Who got the best of that?
We deserve better than the quality we've gotten out of this modern engine. I found the exit door, but someone needs to start a class action suit. There seems little doubt that many folks are very disappointed with the quality of this vehicle. :sick:
Since I bought an extended warranty with the vehicle, I brought it to my dealer, who services it routinely. They admitted that Chrysler has had this type of problem with the 3.6 liter engine for some time, but not owned up to it. They tested the engine and want to change the rings next Monday. Since this won't cost me more than the $100 deductible, I'm prepared to do that. But, some of you on this site have indicated nightmare scenarios of continuing engine problems, even after having that kind of repair was done.
Is it worth my time and energy to do this, or simply try to trade the car in? It's only got 28,800 miles on it, plus the warranty, which lasts to 2011, is transferable (though God only knows if Chyrsler will be in business then!).
Any suggestions?
People write that the factory warranty is 3 years or 36,000 miles. 2005 was the last year for 5 years or 100,00 miles,, I also bought a extended warranty.
Good luck!!
I purchased my AWD, Touring last October with 6800 miles. I noticed from the start that it was using approx. 1 quart of oil every 1200 miles so I went to the dealer and they began to record it. We discovered that it is using approx. 2 quarts of oil between 3000 mile oil changes. They agreed that it was excessive so they contacted Chrysler. Chrysler replied with "unless a quart of oil is used every 750 miles they do not consider it to be excessive".
What a shame that we are being treated this way, and the Big 3 wonder why they are losing market share to Toyota, Honda and why they can not turn a profit. For me, I going to call the Star line, which was listed on a previous blog, every day until resolution. If that is not successful, I will be trading mine in for a Toyota.
After reading some of the messages about oil consumption I am wondering if anyone had this happen too.
Thanks
I had similar issues. I had to have the computer on the car "updated". Of course it is not covered under warranty. $150. This solved my electrical problems.
In terms of the oil. Well that took me 4 years of fighting. I printed off a bunch of these posts and took them to the service manager. Finally a new engine. Haven't gone more than 1000 miles yet so we'll see if it helped. But if you do get a new engine, I suggest you have them replace the motor mounts at the same time. They are very well known for going bad. (two service advisers and manager told me)
Also make sure there are not any odd noises when you drive away. Commonly the crossover pipe (part of the exhaust system) gets damaged internally during the engine replacement. My dealer tried to charge me for the repair, again not under warranty. Luckily a mechanic at another shop told me of the common damage and I got the dealer to repair for free. Also watch for clicking noises during turning. It is also common for the axle nuts to loosen over time. I'm currently waiting for a new front axle. Good Luck!
1) Oil Consumption test--make sure you go all the way through the 3000miles before you give up. My car consumed more oil in the final 1500 miles than in the first. I am told that this is common. Between 1500 mi and 2000 mi I consumed ¾ of a quart, however during the first 1500 mi, I only consumed a ½ a quart. I now have a new engine.
Engine Replacement Issues
1) Motor Mounts- Have them replace the motor mounts during engine replacement. Broken motor mounts are the most common issue with the Pacifica according to the dealer and not covered under your extended warranty. Upon inspection before they removed the engine, they determined I had two broken and a third was cracking. This will save labor costs down the road, as you will only have to pay for parts.
2) Crossover Pipe- Commonly, during an engine replacement, the crossover pipe in the exhaust system will get damaged internally. The mechanic on visual inspection of the outside does not see this. Your engine will make a rough, rattle like noise during acceleration. According to the mechanic foreman, the inner layer will separate from the outer layer during take apart and reinstallation. The dealer will try to get you to pay for the repairs don't let them.
3) Control Arm/Front Axle- Listen for a clicking and popping noise during turning. I hear it most pulling in and out of parking spaces. This is a damaged control arm and loose axle nuts. I am also told that this is very common on the Pacifica. I now have a new control arm and am waiting for a new right front axle.
**Keep in mind that service advisers are paid on commission. Take the shop foreman on a test drive pre and post engine replacement. Listen for and document any noises. The dealer will try to get you to pay for any repairs after engine replacement. Also bring the service manager in on any issues. Advisers want the commission!
[non-permissible content removed] Luck!
thanks.