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Subaru Legacy/Outback Transmission Problems

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Comments

  • ruwagonruwagon Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 L wagon and the speedometer operates some of the time. There is apx. 90K miles and this problem has just started to show up. Does any body know if the speedo is mechanical or electronic and has seen this problem???
  • catagorycatagory Member Posts: 4
    On slippery surfaces, the drive to the rear wheels jumps in and out with a strong
    jolt, causing the tires to break traction and provide little overall traction to propell
    the vehicle. This can be duplicated with the car on a lift and all wheels free to rotate. On a slippery upgrade, if approached at 20 MPH or greater, the all wheel drive will stay engaged. Any ideas about what's causing the drive to the rear to be intermittant?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    What kind of tires, how many miles, what condition? My guess is that this is the #1 reason for the in-out motion.

    -mike
  • catagorycatagory Member Posts: 4
    Mike,
    Tires are matched set of Michelin, all in good shape. Perhaps I should have mentioned that this problem is not new. It existed last winter, and I put up with it, but now that winter is here and my slippery hills have returned so has the problem.
    Also bear in mind that the condition can be duplicated on a lift with all 4 wheels off the ground. My wife has an identical Subaru that behaves perfectly.
    Thanks for the thought, but I still need help.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Then the next thing would be the center diffy/clutch packs. That's what senses the slippage between the front and rear axles. They aren't terribly complicated systems so if the tires aren't it, then it's got to be the center diffy/ clutch packs.

    -mike
  • catagorycatagory Member Posts: 4
    Mike, I tend to agree, but what makes them intermittant at low speed and then stay locked in at 20 MPH and higher?
  • buddah76buddah76 Member Posts: 2
    :cry: Him if anyone has experienced this problem, please help.
    My Subaru Outback 2000 drives just great (recently overhauled tranny), but every time I have to stop at red light and wait, the whole car shakes badly, feels like it's coming from engine area (obviously). Thought it was timing belt, replaced, problem persisits. Replaced CV shafts, no good luck there, have no idea where it's coming from, BUT if I shift to Neutral, shaking stops. Any ideas?
  • buddah76buddah76 Member Posts: 2
    Hey Martin,
    I had the same exactly the same prblem with my 2000 Outback. It wouldn't engage when put in drive and so on. Whoever told you it was bad seals was right. I had my tranny completely overhauled and now it's just perfect, I know it's a lot of money, but your only other option is trade in. If you decide to do overhaul and live in southern Florida, find Ray's Transmission in West Palm Beach (use yellow pages or email me later, i'll find his business card), he's really good.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,780
    It probably has something to do with the torque converter, which allows the engine to run with the transmission engaged. It stops when you shift to neutral because the gears are no longer engaged. It would also stop if you shifted to park. My '96 Outback did this for a long time. My wife never worried about it; she would just sit there with the car vibrating. I simply shifted the transmission to neutral at every light, then engaged it as I was preparing to move forward again. It never became worse, but was always there. The transmission had 220,000 miles on it at the end.

    If this is a new development since the transmission work, perhaps something is not lined up quite right between the engine and transmission. It is remotely possible that the torque converter is not installed quite correctly into the transmission. If it is not mechanical, then it must be a sensor. Something like this seems mechanical to me, though.

    Please let us know if you find out more on it!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    Did your rpms at idle change since the tranny work?

    Does turning on the a/c cause the vibration to stop? If yes, it's just the idle speed causing the vibration.

    Jim
  • ncassidyncassidy Member Posts: 4
    My 99 Legacy has many miles on it,like to the tune of 160,000. While driving I thought the clutch was slipping so it was brought into a garage to be checked. Sure enough they felt the clutch was going so a new clutch was installed along with turning the flywheel and new throw out bearing.The car seemed to drive fine for about a week and then it started slipping again.It was brought back and a new flywheel installed and another new pressure plate and so on. Well the problem still persists.It is very evident in 1st thru 4th gear and reverse, but when in 5th gear it drives fine even when bogged down. Now I wonder if it could be something else,so I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions as to what may be causing this.It also seems that the all wheel drive is not working as it should.Appreciate any help. :sick:
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Seen this a lot of times. Most likely the master and/or slave cylinder for the clutch.

    -mike
  • ncassidyncassidy Member Posts: 4
    I thought of that too, but wouldn't you know the clutch is cable operated and not hydraulic. Now I am wondering about the center differential clutch pack. I guess it comes down to whether the car is worth putting any more hard earned cash into it.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Hmm it has a cable? That is odd, I was pretty sure by 99 it had gone to hydrolic by then.

    One last question before giving up, did you happen to install an exedy clutch? I ask because some friends of mine did a full flywheel, clutch kit, Master/Slave cylinders, etc. on a 99 2.5RS and they are having similar issues. Through their research they read that the exedy clutchs have a small screw that needs to be removed on the pressure plate prior to installation (we/they had never heard of this) and are in the process of removing and re-installing it.

    -mike
  • ncassidyncassidy Member Posts: 4
    I will find out te brand of clutch plate used. It just strikes me as strange that if the car is in 5th gear it does not slip at all. I drove it and bogged it down in 5th to about 25 mph and it did not slip while picking up speed. It only happens in 1st through 4th and reverse. I would think if it was a screw that needed to be removed then it should happen in all gears. That is why I am leaning toward the center differential clutch pack, if it even has one of those. You know years ago an old car with high miles would nickel and dime you to death, well those nickels and dimes have greatly increased.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Perhaps it's the cable adjustment, although I highly think that you'd already have checked that out.

    I've had bad clutches that only slipped in the lower gears.

    I also highly doubt it's the center diffy.

    Here is another question. When it is slipping do you get the typical burnt clutch smell? I don't think you'd get that smell if it is the center diffy.

    -mike
  • ncassidyncassidy Member Posts: 4
    It does have a smell to it albeit not a burn't clutch smell. I am familiar with that odor. The garage that put the clutch in believe it is the transmission or something in there that is screwed up.It almost acts like the first 4 gears are spinning on the shaft they are attached to.The guys at the garage have done a lot of Subaru clutches and they are reputable.They even took it all apart and stuck in a new fly wheel and new pressure plate. Still does the same thing. :sick: I actually drove the car home the other night and it hardly made it up my driveway. Had to get a rolling start to make it up. :(
  • miket0313miket0313 Member Posts: 1
    I recently bought a 96 subaru outback. I noticed my driver side headlight worked but the other one didn't, just a dull glow. And the driver side fog light was broken, i ordered a new one. So i spent the day replacing the lightbulbs, same type as the ones i took out. As i took out the bulbs the plastic thing that holds the wiring for the bulbs was completly melted. and fell apart when i took it off. So i went the atuo zone a and bought 2 new 3terminal headlight sockets. I wired them like when i found the old ones but now the lights wont even come on. Plz i need to get this fixed.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I wonder if you would need to use OE stuff for that.

    Did you try a junk yard? I would try to get the whole harness from them.
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    1) make sure the bulbs are still good.
    2) check the headlight fuses
    3) verify that the wires are getting juice - I'm not sure what to do if you're not getting power to the plug.

    Btw, do your taillights work? If not, you'd need to check the switch too.
  • jbaudetjbaudet Member Posts: 1
    Hi Guys, I have a 2005 Subaru Outback, close to the first year of having this car, it presented transmission problems, the transmission slips, usually making a right or left turn. To make a long story short, the local dealer had changed the trans twice, its good for a while and then the problem comes back.It cant be the transmission because it was replaced twice. A regional manager from Subaru came to the dealer and we went for a test drive and believe it or not he said that it was a nomal condition and I have to give chance to the computer to respond, BS. I've been driving cars since I was 15 and never experienced anything like that so I said to the manager, its like me telling you to use a computer and not to hit the enter hit too fast otherwise the computer will fail, he did not say anything. I know he was covering the company. There is something wrong with this car. Any help will be appreciated it.
    Thanks
  • bchatterjeebchatterjee Member Posts: 1
    My Subaru Legacy outback has 79K miles. Last week "check engine" light came ON and I found the speedometer not working. Took to my garage where they changed' speed sensor' unit but Speedo still not working. Suggested I drive home and bring back for further check after New Year Holidays etc. Driving home (barely two miles) experienced loud metallic clanking noise and decided to have the car towed back to the garage with help from AAA.It appears the differential suffered a internal breakage and as per garage needs complete overhaul and rebuilding the transmission.I wonder if anyone can throw light on this failure and if similar failures have occurred in 1998 Subaru Legacy with less than 100K miles ?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    You can get a junkyard unit for about $600 and probably about $400 to have it installed. Thats the route I'd go.

    -mike
  • softailredsoftailred Member Posts: 1
    1994 Subaru Legacy Sedan(auto) will not shift into 3rd or overdrive max out at 60mph
  • subbie2756subbie2756 Member Posts: 2
    OK, here's the deal guys. I popped a head gasket at 136k. Since I had a tranny issue already with a delay in the 2-3 shift, I chose to replaced engine and trans as one unit. I now have a JDM engine and trans in my Legacy GT. Since it was installed I have noticed what feels like a severe torgue steer to the right under hard exceleration. It smooths out once I'm past about 30. I have even tried excelerating hard from then on, and didnt notice the problem. This problem is of course worse if it is slick out, and living in central IL, it stays slick in the winter. Any ideas?
  • subaroosubaroo Member Posts: 2
    My daughter drives our 95 Subaru Legacy wagon with automatic trans while away at college. She says when she shifts it into reverse it acts like it's in neutral and won't actually move backwards. It started doing this intermittently, now does it most of the time. It will properly go into reverse successfully once in a while....usually first thing in the morning when car has been sitting overnight. Seems to be worse after the car has been driven and warmed up. Any suggestions on what the problem is, how to fix, and cost to fix will be appreciated.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,780
    First thing to check is the fluid level; next, perhaps, is the shift interlock. If neither of those things, then it may be a problem with the transmission's internals (which means replace/rebuild the transmission). No problems with forward engagement at all?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • subaroosubaroo Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reply. No problems in forward gears, only reverse.

    Fluid is OK. I topped it off....still had the problem. Then has my mechanic drain and refill....still had the problem.

    What's the procedure for checking the shift interlock? Please advise.

    A friend suggested the transmissions bands were slipping and needed to be adjusted. Does this make sense....most of my experience is with manuals/clutches not automatics?
  • jefty_jeffjefty_jeff Member Posts: 6
    I have a 99 Legacy 5-speed manual with about 250,000km (155k mi). Bought the car at 140,000.
    As far as I can remember it was difficult to shift into 1st gear (and reverse) almost from the beginning. It's not really bad, but roughly every other time I need to wait a bit until it shifts. Sometimes it won't shift at all when the light turns green at an intersection, and I'm sitting there trying other gears or reverse to move the gears inside the transmission before it goes into 1st.
    My dad is a mechanic and we've always been driving manual. We have replaced the synchronizer on the 1st gear, but shortly after that the problem returned. We have tried several different brands of oil, from standard to Mobil1, AMSOil and currently I have Motul.
    We have even gone as far as modifying the clutch pedal to gain several mm of clutch travel, but to no avail. (The clutch has been replaced too along the way).

    The way I deal with it is try to shift into first while the car is still rolling a bit before coming to a full stop, and then shift back into neutral after the gears have been properly aligned.

    I tried a couple of new Outbacks recently and, while substantially better, they still don't have a precise shift feeling in the 1st gear. Did anyone notice this?
    I believe some car reviews pointed out the imprecise shift feeling in Subaru manual transmissions.

    Other than that the car is running well. I'm waiting for it to die so I can buy the Outback.
  • agwatagwat Member Posts: 1
    Hi All...I own a 2001 (AT) Outback with 110K miles. My wife drives the car and never lets me know when the car starts doing something funny. I jump in the drivers seat to head out on the road and then throw out the accusatory "WHAT IS THAT" after a few seconds of driving. Anyhow, the other day I jumped behind the wheel and noticed an audible (but not extremely loud) whine that increases with intensity as the car speeds up. Sounds similar to how many cars whine when you drive them in reverse. I threw the transmission into neutral and found that the sound persisted and was independent of engine speed. It sounded like a bad power steering pump (which doesn't follow my previous statement about engine speed, but I checked it anyhow) so I went home and removed the belt that drives the pump as well as the alternator and test drove it around the block, the noise was still there. I cant tell if the noise is coming from either side of the car...it seems to be directly in the middle. I jacked up the car and checked the front end CV joints and they seem solid...but I did notice the the drive axles seemed to have play at the point where they insert into the differential. There was both axial as well as up and down movement...how much play is normal? This was more that a few thousandths...

    Any suggestions are appreciated,

    Andrew :)
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,780
    My guess is that it is originating with the rear differential. When was the last time differential fluids were changed? You might consider a drain/refill on both the front and rear.

    My '96 Outback had the same whine you describe for the last 70,000 miles I owned it. It slowly became more noticeable, but never caused any problems.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • carol2008carol2008 Member Posts: 9
    We have a 2008 Subaru Outback 2.5 - Man 5 speed. At about 1522 miles the engine began racing when applying the clutch. First gear is most noticable. Tach goes up to well past 2500. It will do this at other shifts but not all the time. It's intermittent. We brought it to the dealer and the Tech. test drove it and experienced the same. He agreed that this was not right. He called Techline but before he could even finish explaining the problem, he was told it's normal operation. ??
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    My dad is a mechanic and we've always been driving manual. We have replaced the synchronizer on the 1st gear, but shortly after that the problem returned. We have tried several different brands of oil, from standard to Mobil1, AMSOil and currently I have Motul.
    We have even gone as far as modifying the clutch pedal to gain several mm of clutch travel, but to no avail. (The clutch has been replaced too along the way).

    I'm assuming you used the proper fluid. I forget the designations but the subarus use a different kind than "std" gear lube. The Std. Gear lube will kill your synchros.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    OK, here's the deal guys. I popped a head gasket at 136k. Since I had a tranny issue already with a delay in the 2-3 shift, I chose to replaced engine and trans as one unit. I now have a JDM engine and trans in my Legacy GT. Since it was installed I have noticed what feels like a severe torgue steer to the right under hard exceleration. It smooths out once I'm past about 30. I have even tried excelerating hard from then on, and didnt notice the problem. This problem is of course worse if it is slick out, and living in central IL, it stays slick in the winter. Any ideas?

    Could be several things. First is the JDM gear ratio for the diffy the same as the USDM one? Another thing could be an issue with the front diffy (internal to the trans).

    -mike
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    I use Redline gear oil. They specifically recommend 75-90NS as being syncro friendly for manual trannys. Apparently, the regular GL-5 gear oils contain too much slip agents to allow the syncros to do their job.

    I do use their regular GL-5 in the rear diffy.
  • gtggtg Member Posts: 1
    My 2000 Outback Ltd has same issue. Subie refuses to say it as a common fault. I have been told it's a seal issue but requires full disassembly (IE Rebuild). Mine has been bad for 30,000 miles. Dealer denies it as a common issue BUT will not offer anything on a trade in, as a subie swap unit is 4K.

    Trans shops want to get you in & rip it apart B4 they tell you the price!

    problem is RANDOM & sometimes quite severe!
  • jdevaney1980jdevaney1980 Member Posts: 1
    Hello,

    My friend has a 1995 Suburu Legacy Outback and her Alpine stereo stopped working the other morning. I just checked the fuse and it was intact, but I changed it anyway ... the new one also did not fix the problem. Does anyone have an idea what the issue could be? I think the stereo is about six years old (give or take) and it has not given her any problems until now. The other morning, it did not come on when she started the car. Then it worked and came in and out before dying for good.

    She recently had a new alternator put in, so I am not sure if that is related to the problem.

    Let me know what you think.

    Thanks.
    -Jason
  • trcrtrcr Member Posts: 3
    I have an AWD 98 outback (90,000K) that is having problems in that after about 5 miles of no problems the engine dies....restarts and lurches forward sometimes dying again while moving and certainly when I stop. I had the head gaskets just replaced and believe the transmission is now bad. Any ideas or tips?
  • subbie2756subbie2756 Member Posts: 2
    Mike,

    I was thinking the same thing about the gear ratio. Now that it has dryed out, I noticed it will chirp the inside front tire when turning from a stop. I'm thinking its an internal problem. I doubt I could get lucky enough that it just be from it sitting around for a while and things being "stuck" together. Guess I need to go through my old tranny and rebuild it to get ready. Thanks..

    Where's a good source for parts?

    Chris
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Possible front LSD? Have you tried new synthetic fluid? Look for chunks? Let me know.

    -mike
  • jefty_jeffjefty_jeff Member Posts: 6

    after about 5 miles of no problems the engine dies....restarts and lurches forward sometimes dying again while moving and certainly when I stop


    It sounds like an engine problem, since it's the engine that dies. Sounds kind of like a clogged fuel filter.
  • trcrtrcr Member Posts: 3
    Thanks. One thing I forgot to mention is that the ALT (auto, transmission fluid light) has been coming on.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    The AT Temp Light? That's the only indicator as far as I know that would effect the trans. If there is a bad solenoid it will blink on startup.

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,780
    Dies after about 5 miles? That makes me think of the Mass Airflow Sensor. Especially if the car starts right back up. I had a problem with mine in that it would die at idle, about 5 miles into a drive (or about the time the engine warmed up). Started right back up most of the time. No codes, could not figure it out. A Subie die hard suggested I try the MAS, and I never had that problem afterward. I purchased a junkyard special as well. ;)

    I had no problems with the AT temp light though. If you just had the head gaskets replaced, I have to wonder if everything is hooked up properly. I would pop the hood and double-check all electrical connectors to make sure everything is seated properly.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,780
    The alternator may be related to the problem, but it sounds to me like the radio just kicked the bucket. It does happen. Did she hear any metallic "thunk"s when it finally quit? If so, that would be the bucket falling over.... :P

    Did you check the connector on the back of the radio to make sure it is seated properly? How about the wires?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • trcrtrcr Member Posts: 3
    Thanks. Yes the AT Temp light blinks when you start the engine. If a bad solenoid how much to repair?
  • jcharisjcharis Member Posts: 1
    hello. if you already got a response to this, my apologies. the tach revving up after driving some and then depressing the clutch is normal of all turbocharged vehicles. it's because a turbo will "spool" air while accelerating.. but before it is given the chance to release, if you were to step down on the clutch, the spooled air needing a place to go - some of it will shoot into the engine and some will go thru the diverter valve. but it's perfectly normal. and this is true for ALL turbocharged engines not just subarus.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Odd, I own several turbo cars including 2 subarus and none of mine rev when I depress the clutch, unless my foot is on the gas at the time.

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
  • shabe1shabe1 Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a used 2005 Subaru Outback in October. It has almost 20,000 miles on it and the warranty is about to expire. I've noticed that since it has gotten cold the car revs high when I start it in the morning, or after it has been sitting for a long period of time. The RPM's go up to about 1500 or slightly higher, and I have to tap the gas peddle to get it to go down. If I don't tap the gas peddle and just put the car in reverse (automatic transmission) the car shakes a bit and makes a noise, almost like it's moaning and shuddering. It only lasts about 5-10 seconds and then it is fine. On three separate occasions when I didn't let the car warm up, but just jumped in and drove away, the car "jumped" or lurched when I was approaching a stop.

    I literally just picked up the car from a Subaru dealership for service. This was my second trip in for this problem in the last 2 weeks. The first time they updated something computer related, but I noticed no change. This time it isn't throwing any codes, so they don't know what to do. They said they have a call in to tech support, but it has been more than 24 hours with no response so I just picked up my car. Any thought or advice on this problem?
  • janisjadejanisjade Member Posts: 2
    When it's cold outside it's quite normal for a car's engine to idle at a high RPM until the motor warms up. Usually the engine will idle down on its own once the motor warms up. If you want to knock the idle down prior to that, then you would tap the accelerator in order to accomplish the task.

    I just had the transmission replaced in my '95 Legacy. One of the things it was doing in the very least was what you describe as "shuddering." Have you checked the transmission fluid level? This is done on level ground after you have driven a couple of miles to warm up the transmission and allow the fluid to circulate through the transmission. It's also done with the transmission in "PARK" and the motor running.

    Though I'm not a mechanic I am a mechanic's daughter and have a tad bit of exposure to these things.

    Oh yeah, one more thought: If the engine is idling at a super high rate perhaps your garage needs to adjust the idle. This would best be done on a "cold" engine start-up.
    -Janis
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