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Comments
Crips shifts aren't necessarily bad. I'm sure they don't feel good, but it's better than mushy/hesitant shifts.
At that age, it's 14 years old, you should count your blessings. Try to be easy on her and keep her running forever!
But honestly, no, I am not sure why they would require a full replacement of the entire assembly.
-mike
We had originally thought we would keep this car for at least ten years, but not now. Its going next year way before it hits 80K
Forester: 2400 pounds
Outback H-4 models, including XT turbo: 2700 pounds
Outback H-6 model: 3000 pounds
I'm assuming the same Outback ratings are true for the Legacys, although the tow ratings are no longer published in the brochures.
I believe the Impreza is limited to 2000 pounds.
NOTE: Those ratings are with trailer brakes. If you have no trailer brakes, all Subies are limited to 1000 pounds towing. For further info, check the owner's manual.
Finally, in other markets all these vehicles are rated to tow more than here in the USA. I've been told it's because Subaru of America is very conservative when it comes to their tow ratings. The vehicles are up to towing more, but SoA is concerned about engine cooling, thus keeping the tow numbers down.
Bob
Bob
Under load such as encountering a hill, while in 5th gear the car will exhibit a slipping behavior. There is a 1000-1500 rpm blip of the engine during which the car doesn't accelerate. It also happens to a lesser extent in 4th and does not happen in 1st through 3rd.
Any thoughts?
-mike
Has anyone here done a legacy clutch on their own? I would prefer to do it at home if possible.
-mike
Paisan, I see we share a particular car passion, I had an '89 240 sx. What a car... I miss it often.
Yeah I picked up the 240sx from my buddy for $1500, 220,000 miles on it now and she is running well. I dropped about 500-600 this year in it (Alternator, Starter, Battery, tie-rods, ball joints, eibach pro-kit springs, GR2 rear shocks, brake lines) but it's a perfect NYC beater car!
-mike
It then made a loud noise while breaking under 30mph or so. They then replaced some bushes and the noise is still there but it has changed. It sounds like it is coming from the diff area and it now happens when driving slow but not under breaks. It is a kind of CV joint noise and of course knocks quicker with more speed. There is sometimes a small grind of the same type when pulling to a stop.
Any Ideas, because my expensive mechanic doesn't seem to have a clue.
-mike
To save the transmission from the SLAM on each incline, I tapped the brake pedal to disengage cruise control. This was a hassle for several hundred miles through Montana and Wyoming until I got back to the flatlands.
Upon returning home, I called the dealer and the service manager says, "Yah, I've heard of this 'sharp acceleration' and there is nothing that can be done." To say the least, I am disappointed with the lame response, too-bad attitude, and lack of technical training. He says wait to 30k to change A/T fluid.
Am I expecting too much of SoA and this Outback? Do the thousands of Subie owners in Montana have to "just live with this SLAM"? Any thoughts?
MisterBob
A couple of other things to note: I noticed that when I first back out of the garage and put the car in drive, the car will slowly move forward even though I don't have my foot on the gas and it is an uphill incline. One time I had to push hard on the brake to stop the car because it was moving forward all by itself.
Another thing that has happened since then is that periodically when I go to start the car, all I'll hear is a click and it can take from 2 - 20 attempts before the engine will turn over. This issue may be resolved (my mechanic thinks so) but I don't feel it has been long enough to confirm it yet so I thought I'd mention it here as well. What the mechanic thinks this was is a corrosion on a cable at the battery. So far so good but it only seemed to happen when it was humid outside or had rained so until we get more rain I won't know for sure.
My mechanic has replaced spark plugs and plug wires along with the throttle positioning switch in an attempt to resolve the hesitation when accelerating but neither has made a difference. Is there anyone out there who has experienced the same issue or issues and if so, what was the resolution? I can't afford to replace everything in the car to find the problem so would appreciate some good input.
Thanks! :confuse:
-mike
Next thing for me would be the ignition coil. They're about $80 at wholesalers, and you only need one. That feeds the spark to the wires, which then feeds the plugs.
It's gotta be spark or fuel.
I own 2005 Outback wagon, automatic, bought from dealer with 16,000 miles. Now has 36,000 miles.
It has had a "hard" shifting thing since I've owned it (which I unfortunately didn't notice on the test drive). Started noticing it soon afterward. Jerky hard shifting when accelerating from stop, and hard (automatic) downshifting when going up a mountain. Not all 05s are like this I've discovered, since I get free loaners from the dealership and they have much smoother gentler gear shifting. Brought it up at the dealership; they said this is normal for AWD and that maybe it needed to break in. It hasn't.
I've also had sometimes the delayed downshifting when I'm trying to accelerate rapidly at freeway speeds. I press down the accelerator, and it feels like the car is just hanging out and not responding at all for several seconds, then suddenly, it JERKS into action and accelerates rapidly.
And in the last couple of weeks, I've noticed it worsening. When accelerating from stop, it seems to hesitate in little jerks before finally getting into gear. I'm reading earlier forum questions about transmission seal problems, but it seems way too early for 2005/06!
Are you going to get yours looked at? Let me know what you come up with!
-mike
could you please explain in layman's terms so that i can take car to dealer and actually know what i am talking about!
Thanks!
A TSB is a Technical Service Bulletin - a document that notifies Subaru technicians of a known issue and a method of resolution. It is not a recall; just a service notification to hopefully resolve the "we don't know" issues customers often receive when taking a problem car to a dealership.
A re-flash basically means that the memory is cleared and a new "map," or series of instructions about how to control the units based on the input received, is loaded.
-mike
Anyone familar w/ this problem in an awd Subaru?
I agree with juice that your car's problem is likely a differential, or perhaps a (very bad) CV joint on a front half shaft.
With manual trans cars it's combined with the gear oil. There is a yellow dip stick on the trans tunnel, which is also where you add gear oil.
Thanks,
Rondo 320
Well, I took it back to the dealer today and they found a bad throttle positioning sensor. There was a bulletin 11-80-06 on the problem.