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Comments
Thanks.
It could be the fuel filter or pump; or the pump pressure regulator, it is under the air breather on top of the throttle body toward the front passengers side. it is round with about 3 screws. If the fuel pressure is low when under a load due to the regulater, you could replace for about $40. parts, or clean it out with spray cleaner; watch out most likely its spring loaded and a small ball check valve seated. Make sure that you seal it properly. If it where a fuel supply problem witch it sounds like it could be, then most likely when you are on the highway pulling a hill as it has that loss of power slows down if you where to put it to the floor and hold it then immediately down shift and hold it to the floor again , this would be the extreme test for the fuel supply system. The car will then fall flat on its face, chug and maybe even come to a stop due to lack of fuel pressure, or low fuel flow when needed; unless you where to let off of the gas to let the pressure build back up.
If it where a cat clog, then it could be tested with a vacuum gage at idle; and if it where a cat clog then there would be a primary reason for the clog, like low eng temp as in bad thermostat( running to cold, low ignition timing; is many times the reason for the cat clog! all of this would be a symptom of bad MPG for a long time to clog it. Its hard to fix a car online so sorry for thinking out loud! but hopefully it is what you needed to give you some ideas that will help. Most people on here will try to fix there own or get pointed in the general direction, then speak to other mechanics about it. Ask away I will do my best when I can to help.
I believe it is one of 5 possibilities: poor compression, excessive resistance in the plug wires, defective distributor cap or rotor, clogged fuel filter, or worn or unsuitable spark plugs.
The compression pressure in the 3 cylinder Metro should be 195psi. If it is lower than 180psi in any cylinder; the engine cannot be made to perform properly.
The spark plug wires should have no more than 1,000 ohms resistance for each inch of wire length. (They measure 500 ohms per inch of length when new.)
The distributor cap can create problems if the carbon button in the center of the inside edge is missing or damaged. There also can be problems if the inside surface of the cap has any carbon tracks or lines on it; or if it is coated with dirt on either the inside or outside. It must be kept surgically clean. The same goes for the rotor.
The fuel filter should be replaced, as it is the least commonly maintained item on that car; and is thus the most likely to need replacement. And it will have the greatest effect on running in 5th gear.
Metro engines are astonishingly sensitive to spark plug brand and condition. Most people install NGK plugs in that engine; just because they are such a popular brand. But in the 17 years I have owned my 1990 Metro, and in the 30 plus years that I have been a diagnostic, fuel and electrical systems specialist; I have never seen a worse spark plug choice for the Metro than NGK plugs!!! In this car, I would recommend either Bosch # 7900 Super Plus (which is a fairly new part number, and may be difficult to locate), or Champion # 332 (RN7YC). The gap in these plugs should be set to .043". These plugs are slightly colder than the recommended ones; and my experience is that they work better, for that reason.
The gas gauge doesn't work very well so I'm still waiting to see how far I can go on a tank till I add the fuel system cleaner and see how that changes things.
P.S. all testing is done on level road highways.
What you describe as "pinging" seems to me to be very likely the sound of one or more broken piston skirts or broken rings.
FYI; you can get a premium quality remanufactured engine for the Metro for an outrageously cheap price; from Hiperformer Engines in Spokane Washington. They have a 7 year, 100,000 mile warranty; and the last time I checked the price, it was about $1,300 plus shipping: www.hiperformer.com
OH! I see! You said 15 Lbs if this is a true reading then was the car pinging when you pushed on it , if so it could be a broken piston from pre detonation.
Dennis
As Zenden said; sometimes carbon can become stuck underneath a valve. That is particularly likely if you goose an engine that has not been driven hard recently. So it might be worth running some liquid graphite through the air intake. But the normal compression for that engine is 195 psi; and the minimum allowable pressure is 155 psi; so it does seem obvious that the compression is WAY out of the ballpark.
The only good solution for low compression is to overhaul the head, or the entire engine. The lowest price and highest quality remanufactured engines for Metros come from a place called Hiperformer Engines in Spokane, Washington. They have a 7 year, 100,000 mile warranty. This company does all the engines for NAPA stores; and has the lowest rate of warranty returns in the industry. They charge about $1,300 for a completely remanufactured 3 cylinder Metro motor, and can ship anywhere in the US at affordable rates: www.hiperformer.com
PLEASE HELP!!!!
mine is a 1995 2dr with 300,000 kilometres
B regards
Victor
So if you want to find a computer which can be used to replace your 1995 model; it would have to be from a 3 cylinder car, with the same type of transmission as yours. It would be an even better match if it was also made for the same type of emission spec (either federal or California, or Canadian) I would also recommend not using a computer from a convertible in a sedan; or vice versa. Beyond that, most of the other differences would not be important.
The same would apply if you just wanted to change the eprom chip; but I believe this chip is not removable; like it is in some larger American vehicles.
Thank you for info..what eeprom means is engine control computer,and what I understand,according to what you said is that I can change my engine control computer keeping in mind the same characteristics: 3 cylinder, transmission and type of emission spec. Am I rigth?
Again
thanks for your help.
:confuse: :confuse:
But if you have been ordering a pulley for the correct engine; my experience with these apparently incompatible part situations is that they frequently happen when Suzuki engines are used to replace Geo engines. Suzuki (who designed and built the Geo Metro for GM) also sold a very similar, but not identical car called the Suzuki Swift. The Swift was produced with several different engines which might have been installed as a replacement in your car. These were the G13B, which is an 8 valve, SOHC, 1.3 liter 4; that was used in Swifts from 1989-2001. The G13A was an engine of the same description that was used in Swifts from 1989-1997. There was also an SF310, which was a 1.0 liter 4, used in Swifts from 1990-1994. And there was an SJ413; which was a 1.3 liter 4 used in a car called the SJ413 in 1985. Those would be the most likely engines to have been transplanted into your Metro.
Suzuki also made a car called the Forsa from 1985-1988, with an SA310 motor that was a 1.0 liter 4.
Both Suzuki and Chevy dealers have exploded parts diagrams on microfiche, or on computer; which should include an image of the fan belt pulley for each model engine; that would show how many bolt holes it has. So you may have to personally go to the parts departments at those dealerships; in order to look at the microfiches. You could also make a trip to a local auto wrecker who has a 4 cylinder Geo or Chevy Metro to look at the pulley. It may be that the pulley used on engines with power steering or air conditioning has more bolt holes than the one used on cars without those accessories. And even if your engine does not have those accessories; they may have been on the car that the engine came from.
I am new to this commmunity. I am looking at 1993 Geo Metro Convertible. I have never owner a Metro before but I like this car and the asking price is $1000. I would like to know what can I expect from a Metro? This on has had a new head gasket installed. I noticed the inside of the tail pipe is wet with what appears to be dirty oil. I am told it does run. And only needs some cosmestic issues repaired. I am will be going to check it tonight and will learn more when I start it up. I would be taking to my mechanic to have the compression checked, brakes, exhaust system and the electrical.
Any thought on what else to look for would be appreciated.
$1000. Seems to be a very good price??
Peace
Rick
Some of the other things that could be a problem on such a car are the amount of life left in the battery, the amount of wear left in the brakes, the condition of the tires, whether the clutch is slipping or needs adjustment, how much oil the car uses between changes (or whether the oil was even changed regularly). If the motor is in good condition, I would find out what brand and weight of oil the owner was using, and would make an effort to continue using the same oil brand and type. This can make a substantial difference in the length of the engine life.
Also; many mechanics consider compression good if it is similar in all the cylinders. But on the Metro, it also has to be AT LEAST 170 psi in all cylinders.(Normal compression on that motor is 195 psi).
The kind of service you'll get from such a car will depend greatly on its mechanical condition; and on the quality of maintenance and repair it has been given. Metro engines are extremely responsive to the way they are maintained. Neglect, abuse, or misadjust them; and they will fall apart. Keep them well tuned, treat them with respect; and they will be astonishingly trouble free and economical. If you get less than 38 mpg in city driving; or less than 50 mpg on long highway trips; the engine is not running right. But those figures are for a car with a 5 speed transmission. Metros with an automatic will get about 10 mpg less than those with a stick shift.
anyway its been a real headache from day one!! itll start but doesnt sound right and make a familiar timing belt noise" ive heard that sound before" thiers also clicking coming from the head, when it 1st starts I can see smoke out the pipe
heres the bad part>>>>>>>>>> Ill excellerate out of 1st and it wants to pop and fart then it dies like its not getting gas, well this BS has happened on the freeway 2-3 times and the car just dies!!!!! Ill wait a few minutes and itll start.....
2 things are possible, ignition or fuel...just tinkering around havent been able to figure it out ............Ive replaced the plugs.rotor,cap and wires but nothing seems to help.it simply runs rough!! BTW when I pulled the old plugs the elctrodes were eatin away and the plugs looked terrible!! they also had plug extentions on all 3.....I dont know why? the car also eats oil like thiers no tommorrw!! any ideas??
the speedo reads 104K....or so it sez!? the clutch pedal isnt that worn down so it could be right, ...I belive it was not replaced
The code readout is turned on by shorting two terminals in the fuse block under the dashboard; but it's been so long that I forgot where the terminals are. Sorry about that. It's in the service manual.