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We're sorry that you have been through so much and weren't able to get these concerns taken care of. If you want for us to do any additional investigation, please contact us at socialmedia@gm.com with more details (including your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN and mileage, and a summary of the situation).
Sarah, GM Customer Service
Sorry to read about your diagnostic experience. If we can check into this further with you, please contact us at socialmedia@gm.com (include your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN and mileage, and a summary of the situation).
Sarah, GM Customer Service
Then my sweetie had a lightbulb hit..fuel injection cleaner! I just put in the first bottle but my car starts right up now. If you have a big prob you may need to put in 2 bottles at first. I had a grand am in the 80's and I had to do the same thing. I get the cheap stuff from walmart. Good Luck
Within the first year the heating system failed, as in it randomly worked. Took it in numerous times to the dealership only to be made to feel like I was doing something wrong. Each time I would bring it in, they would keep it for the day, check it over and send me on my way, only for it to stop working again shortly thereafter.
Finally it cooperated, in that it didn’t work when the technician checked it, which was after probably the 4th time I brought it in. In the end, probably out of frustration of me continually bringing it in, they ended up removing the entire heating system from a brand new one on the lot and putting it in mine. That worked and I haven’t had a problem with the heating since.
Shortly thereafter, the driver’s side mirror stopped working so now I can’t adjust it using the control inside the truck still doesn’t work. Shortly after that, the driver’s side lock won’t lock anymore from inside either.
Within months of getting the heating fixed, my key started to randomly get stuck in the ignition, which quickly escalated to every time. Turning off and on the engine and putting it in and out of gear was the only way to get it out. I had to start carrying two sets of keys in the event it wouldn’t come out.
With all this happening, the engine would start to sputter when I accelerated so I took it into my licensed mechanic and decided to have that looked at in addition to the key getting stuck in the ignition. I was told that the sputtering was caused by a faulty spark plug, which they replaced, and the ignition issue was apparently a known issue to the dealership to which they supplied a “super lube” for them to apply to my ignition. I drove it home and to my dismay, the key got stuck again. $1,000 out of my own pocket later and I’m back to square one.
Now it’s starting to hesitate when I start the engine and randomly won’t turn over at all. After a few tries it starts, but it still hesitates.
I have had a few conversations with the customer service people at GM, pleading my case, to which I was told that I could bring it in to one of their dealerships to assess it, at my own cost of approximately $130 per hour. All they would commit to if I brought it in was that they “may” consider helping with the cost to fix it, only if it would have been covered under my warranty. Not sure I see how this is a benefit to me! Whatever happened to a company standing by their product! I asked if my mechanic could speak to their mechanic to share what they found in lieu of bringing it in, but they said no to that as well.
I don’t want to hear their typical response of “I’m sorry to hear about your experience ” spiel...what I want to hear is “let us take care of whatever issues you are having at no cost to you ”or better yet issue a recall. Clearly, looking online, I’m not the only one having issues with this!
Consumers need to stand together and make these companies stand by their products instead of washing their hands and hoping we will just go away.
The AUTO light switch no longer works, and I am also experiencing the hesitation when I accelerate, but I am installing the plugs and wires myself. The ignition has always been weird, (sometimes won't start even though it is turning over) probably time for a new starter.
My Torrent only has 75,000 miles on it, and ever since I've had it there have been major problems that should never happen to a $25,000.00 GM vehicle. I swear that I will never buy a GM, and will advise everyone I know to ever buy a GM. I don't understand why this car was never recalled!
Other electrical such as stereo works.
Changed the camshaft sensor and the crankshaft sensors (but still getting error in diagnostic about crankshaft sensor.)
The starter turns over. There is fuel pressure so the fuel pump works. The injectors (at least one of them) gets electricity. When the spark plugs are taken out, it is not wet in the engine, and the spark plugs are not working. Checked, cleaned and reconnected ground at engine and chassis and plus wires on engine. Battery is good condition.
The air bag light is turned on because air bags went off during accident. The radiator fan errors come up also in the diagnostic. As well as Speed sensor circuit comes up in the diagnosis when trying to start the car.
Just curious if you have been able to solve your problem. I am having similar problems with my NO-start Torrent.
I have a 2008 that was in a light front end collision, airbags did not go off. Car started, ran, and was driveable. I parked the vehicle, disconnected the battery, and I took apart the front of the vehicle, bumper cover, bumper rebar, headlights, foglights, and air temp sensor. I also took off the a Ground Wire on the Engine Wiring Harness that connected to the frame. I forgot to hook this wire back up to the frame prior to hooking the battery up.
Now here is where it gets complicated. I was foolish and put the key in the ignition before have the battery hooked up and turned it to the on position. Was unable to remove the key, so figured i should just hook up the battery because it will be fine. I hooked the battery up(put negative wire back on post, as this was the only one i removed), and.....The wiring harness started to smoke, and eventually melted through the ground wire that went to the ECM. Also, only one fuse blew in the fuse panel, the ECM fuse.
I stripped the entire wiring harness near down and replaced the 2 feet of Ground wire that was burned/melted. It goes into a heavier gauge wire after those 2 feet, and splits into 2 other wires, so i figure the current was evenly spread over those other wires leaving them unharmed. I also inspected those wires for continuity, and damage, they were fine, along with all other wires in the wiring harness.
I was prompeted to relearn the key for the Anti-Theft after this wire was replaced, key is now recognized. But now i put the key to ON, fuel pump engages, and crank to START, and nothing, just a click or 2(the battery is good I have tried 2 different batteries, one from my a truck with 30% higher cranking amps).
When diagnosing the start relay in the relay/fuse panel, that checks out and sends about 11.85V to through all the way to the purple IGN wire on the starter solenoid, this cranks up to 11.85 V for about 3 seconds then goes to 0.00 V. The start solenoid will not engage or crank.
I have tried jumper wires from the back of the fuse panel to the Starter solenoid, which shows 11.85V as well,(this is a heavier guage wire too). and still no crank.
I checked the starter solenoid directly, when the battery is hooked up, and key is on or off, i can jump a wire from a (+) battery post to the IGN+ on the solenoid to engage the solenoid, and the starter will crank.
I have also purchased another computer that was certified remanufactured, and programmed with VIN, etc. the vehicle acts exactly the same.
I am running out of ideas. Is there something in the anti-theft system that is still telling the system to not crank/start. I removed the DR Lock Fuse on the inside fuse panel, as when the system is turned to START, the doors will UNLOCK and click. I wanted to isolate this problem, and cut power to this system, incase a solenoid is bad.
I have also placed a jumper wire in the hood latch so it thinks the hood is closed.
Vehicle would not start when key was ON and I jumped the starter solenoid.
ANY POINTERS OR HELP WOULD BE MUCH APPRECIATED!!!! I have about 15-20 hours chasing wires, looking at continuity, resistance, and opens, etc. and don't seem to be getting anywhere.
Depends how you put the ground wire back on, make sure it is on there properly, as another time I had problems because the ground wire got corroded on the frame.
Another time I had the car not starting is because it was one very small wire got cut that went from ABS module to computer (Traction control wire). And putting this small wire back together solved the problem. In all this time, I did not need to replace the computers.
When you put the wiring back together and you had it melted, take liquid tape http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-4-fl-oz-Liquid-Electrical-Tape-LTB-400- - - - /100119178#.UlSpblCfgo4 and put it around all the wires where the insulation may have melted on each wire. This will prevent a future fire in the wiring.
If you have a diagnostic tool - use it.
Also note, when you start redoing the wiring (connecting cables together) simple connectors can only last for so long because moisture gets into connectors. You need to solder the wires together and use heat shrink (that puts insulation on the cables and wiring). This way water will not get into the connectors, forming corrosion, and it will not start a fire this way. Very important to do this correctly. Also you can use a clear liquid that strengthens the connections between the wires (when you put the wires together) and also between battery terminals). I do not have the name on me but if needed I can find it, also can be bought at home depot.
Use a Heat gun for Heat Shrink for it to be professionally done.
Soldering Iron (I use 140Watt to 220watt) Not less. (You can buy used one)
Make sure you get the right molding metal for electrical with flux. (flux cleans the connections)
Also about the clear liquid I was talking about, you can put that in the connectors for the computer, and other connections to make them good. Ask about this liquid at a home depot, who actually knows about it.
Hi there…Has anyone found an solution to this problem in all these years? Or has contacting the GM reps who repeatedly offered assistance if you send them info, helped anyone to fix this problem? I have a 2006 Torrent which I LOVE and sadly have many of the same issues…
-after the heater core was replaced at dealer ( to late for recall but dealer convinced GM to at least pay for half of the $1400 work )
-3 wheel bearings (one without warning the tire almost fell off the rear…thank GOD we were driving slowly through a town when it happened!!!)
-passenger wiring harness,
-abs kicking on EVERYTIME you come to a stop (all tire sensors bad)
-Lights on dash for no apparent reason etc, etc
NOW the biggy… electrical issues..it died a few times before and required a boost to get going again…and twice the radio or fan would not shut off when the car was turned off and the key was out of the ignition…again dead. The windows and rear wiper sometimes work and sometimes don’t…plus the front passenger only works when you open the door
Finally I come to a stop sign…flicker and beep goes the dash…and it dies…never to start again…not with a boost, not with a charger, not with a new battery. $300 to have it towed and there it sits in my drive waiting for me to have enough money to have it towed and looked at while all the new parts rot
HELP! I LOVE my Torrent…first “pretty car” I ever owned. I am a single mom and needed a reliable car as I am on limited funds and live in rural Ontario…
GM… SHAME if you have not helped others with this problem after all these years and your support people posting over and over again…obviously you are aware there is a problem and should be standing by your product and recalling this car!!
My grandfather would be rolling in his grave as a 65 year retiree of your company…yes I said 65 years! I will be the last of my family to buy a GM…after my issues even my father went Toyota…and your wondering why our gov’t has to keep bailing you out so you don’t go under???? LOOK after your customers and maybe you would keep them loyal!! FYI we (most of Ontario) won’t be voting liberal either so there goes your cash cow!!