Oldsmobile Aurora Engine Problems

trailmug · February 2009

The thermostat is in the water pump housing, on the driver's side of the motor.

trailmug · February 2009

Mine runs at 200 cruising in the winter, and gets up to 240+ idling in the summer heat. This is completely normal for this engine. If the temp gauge doesn't go into the red, don't fix it!

creamteam1977 · February 2009

I have a 1998 olds. aurora.. I just got it ...and i just filled my tank half way and i was driving all of a sudden my gas hand dropped to empty but it was still alil gas left in there to make it home... when i got home i look up under the hood and i smell strong gas and i saw that it was leaking by the engine... plus i also smelled gas coming out my vents... can anyone tell me the problem...

matthewcc17 · March 2009

I have a 96 aurora and had many problems with the fuel rail leaking on top of the engine. The nylon lines between the injectors would crack and spray on the engine. The smell would enter the car while driving or idling. There was a recall on this fuel rail on the 96 (had a friend with a 97 also get his fixed under recall), but i dont know what years it all covered. Have a look at your fuel rail if it is plastic lines between the injectors, go to the dealership and tell them about the recall. Mine was replaced with a totally different style. Its a single metal line in the shape of a "U". I had to go to 2 different dealerships because the first place i went to said that there were no recalls still needing to be done on my car. That recall was from back in 2004 i think.

cukkiez · March 2009

I have 03 Aurora with 59667 miles on it and it keeps stalling Today I replaced the plugs and fuel filter took for a ride and it stalled,,does anyone have any idea's .. There are no check engine lights or nothing ,I was at a complete stop gave it the gas and stalled That was a new one!,. or backing up it stalled. , And has anyone had promblems with ther head light switch, my lights shut off by them selfs my name is also AuroraI I just bought the car and I am now having these promblems, can some one help me please! Thankyou.

oldwino · March 2009

One likely cause for stalling is a bad fuel pressure regulator. It's located on the fuel rail and fairly easy to change.

swendell · March 2009

I have a 95 aurora and my instrument panel light won't come on when I turn the key in the ingtion or when I turn the headlamps on everything else works. Did anybody know why. Please Advise the soonest!

Thanks

Gary

unbrkabl · March 2009

hi guys i purchased this car about 8 months ago, when i went to test drive it it started and idled fine but tried to drive it and it wouldnt go over 10 mph the car had been sitting for about a yr owner said .i went i purchased the car next day at much lower price thinking it prob needed a fuel pump and crazy as it seems it ran and drove like a top for seven months no problems but the last month it started to lose power and run rough almost like it would run out of gas took and had it checked they said egr o2 and speed sensor needed replaced but i didnt have money to get all that at time, i cleaned the egr valve yesterday and didnt help went to go to work this morning and car popped and now wont start like backfire turns over very easily so i pulled a couple plugs and it doesnt seem to have any compression just put something over hole dont have a gauge here so now im thinking maybe timing chain i pulled front valve cover and all chains are turning, i love this car but not sure if i want to replace motor in it im hopin u guys can give me some ideas i will check compression and timing tommorow

cukkiez · April 2009

I had this problem fixed!!! When we put it on the computer it said the engine crank sensors were bad. I replaced the two of the for $85.each and now the car runs great!! If the code only say's one is bad replace them both because they are up behind the oil filter housing witch has to be removed to get at them this took only 30 mints to fix!!!

ranaurora · April 2009

Here's one for you guys, i can be traveling at any speed,(15-60+) in any type weather, and my 95 aurora (engine)will shut down(off), my door locks will unlock like i have stopped and put car into park,I don't seem to have lost any other electrical, i'll coast to side of road and put tranny into park, sometimes it'll start right up or wait a few minutes then it'll start. This last time it did'nt and i had it towed to my mechanic,It was a Saturday and had to leave till Mon. He said he got in and it started right up ,He put it onto the diagnostic computer and there were no codes, so he drove all day and had no problems This has happened to me about 6 times over a years time,I've spoke with different people on this problem and they can't figure why either.My mechanic said it might be ignition switch but is'nt sure, but would be glad to replace it ($250.+)Then if that was'nt it he could replace something else etc.etc. ANY IDEAS GUYS,I'm afraid to drive it, it's to nice of a car to just park. 112k mi.

cukkiez · April 2009

The car has to code !!! when it shuts down that is the time to put it on the code box.not wait to get to it! some times the computer will or not retain a memory on a type of promblem, . lets ask this? What is the Temp of the car when it does this .. Crank shaft sensors can cause a car to cut out at any speed when yours dies out does it Buck, Backfire, or run ruff ,, Give me a little more to go on, the older Aurora V-8 motor is diffrent then the new one's . The older Aurora require higher octain gas! When was the last time your car tuned up last??? You have 2 crank shafts that must fire in sink and when they fire wrong you got promblems.. Fuel filter how old is it .. Go after the tune up parts first inspect really good and replace what is worn!!! The engine must fire correct good luck

nighttrain2 · April 2009

#61, I have the exact same problem with my 2001, 3.5 L, 93000mi. It cuts out for just 1-2 seconds sometimes during acceleration, and died for 10 minutes at 60 mph. No codes. Starts and runs fine afterward. Batt terminals clean. Don't think it's fuel related because it's instantaneous shut off, doesn't go lean for a second before dieing. Not alternator because batt is new and fully charged w/ great cranking power. I'm thinking crank sense timer modules, but I'm no expert. Help, help, help!!!!!

cukkiez · April 2009

That is called crank sensors. We have the 03 yr and I had that stalling promblem.The code told me that the bank 1 sensor was bad. Since I have 2 of them and they are behind the oil filter I replace them both. cost me 150.00 for the 2 of them. Now the car runs great. Now as for you . Your 01 v-6 according to Auto Zone has 1 crank sensor that cost $60.00 and the 96 v-8 crank sensor cost 30.00. part number SU-1052 that a cheep fix I would go there! Replace them and see

ranaurora · April 2009

The car had a tune up at 75k, all recalls have been preformed.The first problem time, i was at a stop light, the door locks came to the unlocked position and there was no indication that the engine was shutting off and i gave it gas but, the engine was off, no jerking or sputtering beforehand. The last time i was on a secondary road 15 miles outside of town going posted speed limit(60) and same as above,so there was no way to put the car on diagnostics there and in my 60years i've never owned a portable code reader

cukkiez · April 2009

Ok if it happens again then get it coded as soon as you can, either your garage or go to a parts store like AutoZone and they will code it for free.. Just trying to help you out it seems like a sensor .. like I said before if you want to try to replace the sensor, try it , it's a cheep repair I dont know what to say but it sounds like the crank sensor .You are giving me the symptoms of what a car does when one or both is bad. If you have 2 sensors replace them both even if the other one is good A shop will tell you that replacing both is a smart thing to do. . And as for the door locks on one of my cars when I put the car in drive the doors locks, then when I stop put the car, put in to drive, now I am getting out of the car when I shut the key off, the doors locks open, so when yours stalls out it looses power and the locks open.. ok , that will happen everytime when you shut the key off or loose power. Automatic Locks, my Aurora does that my Chey Van .. I bet if you change the sensor you will be golden Best of luck to you on this let me know how you make out,

nighttrain2 · April 2009

I'm going to try the crank sensor first. I'll report back. Thank you!!!

cukkiez · April 2009

Good luck!!!!! I talked to a nother friend of mine who own's a garage and between a group of us we have over 100yrs exp.. We all agree to change that sensor.. Good Luck!!!!!

oldsaurora96 · July 2009

hello to everyone im new to this site. I have a 96 aurora 115,000 miles . My problem is i was on my way home from work one day and i went to turn the corner and hit the gas and noticed that it had shut off on its on. so i pulled over and it started right up like nothing happened. Maybe 5 miles later it did it again while i was just coasting down the road so i pulled over and attempted to start it again this time with no luck...... now i noticed before it cut off my oil pressure went from regular operating pressure down to 5psi on the information center. And when i tried to start it up agian it just made a cliking noise but the power was being drained because the lights were getting dimmer. So i had it towed to the repair shop and the replaced my starter, alternator, gave it an oil change and the battery was brand new and now it still wont start. they are telling me that i just need to swap the engine cause its gone bad. does anyone have any clue to whats going on im so confused i dont know what to do.

ranaurora · July 2009

I had this problem with my 95,Does your steering wheel happen to move up,down,sideways ? That just means you need to replace or add new pins in the steering wheel . this i think caused my ignition switch harness to stretch and mess my ignition switch up.I replaced the pins and ignition switch and haven't had any problems since (cross my fingers)

oldsaurora96 · July 2009

well see the funny thing about it was that my service engine light had been on and off for about a month and half, no one could tell me why the light was on and occasionally the light would flash at me. and when i took it to schafer & strominger they told me that my engine had seized up and i needed a new one. and he said that he turned it manually and he got it to start but while it was running he said it sounded like something was cought in the motor. i just dont get it.

oldsaurora96 · July 2009

Does anyone know where i can buy an engine for this 96 aurora?

jeffamanda60 · July 2009

What state are you in? There is a place called pull-a-part where I live and there engines go for like 65 bucks or so. They are used and not positive to work, but you add the warranty and you are safe and covered! My dad uses them ALL the time! I just started using them and they are great!

oldsaurora96 · July 2009

see i live in maryland

sliczewsky · August 2009

I have a 95 Aurora that had fuel pump, lines, fuel rail & cylinders replaced last summer. It's been running great until a few weeks ago. I started it up and massive blue smoke blew out the tail pipe and a really strong fuel smell inside the car. There was no warning there was a problem. My husband and some mechanics he works with are stumped as to where from and where to it's dumping fuel. At first, they thought it was the head gasket, nothing found. The fuel rail is also not leaking. The injectors were not replaced yet because we are not sure if it's worth trying to fix. We do want to save the car if we can find the problem. Does anyone have any idea of what could be the issue? :sick:

butlerj · August 2009

Hi I am new to the site.

A few days ago i noticed a strange sound coming from my engine. I that maybe my oil was getting low, cause my bro had a car that had blown an engine after making a strange sound when he had no oil. I added oil but it still makes the sound. At first it is like a siren but then it levels off and sounds like a mini bike or a moped. It gets worse as it accelerates. I start to to really hear it as I reach 35 mph.

Anyone have any ideas.

tootertater · August 2009

Welcome. I am not a mechanic but I have a '96 Aurora. I also had a sound coming from my engine and it sounded like a roaring. I had it checked out and had to replace my serpentine belt, and my lower pully.My belt was almost broke. maybe this will help. Wish you luck.

taylorbug1 · September 2009

1997 Oldsmobile Aurora 4-dr 193,000 miles. Car runs GREAT but I need the gas tank replaced and no one has one. Selling whole car for $800 obo would consider parting-out Live in Somerset County, PA

taylorbug1 · September 2009

Don't know if it would work, but I have a 97 Aurora that we're parting out because it needs a gas tank and no one seems to be able to get us one. Car runs great otherwise. My post is #78

37olds · September 2009

I am looking for an Aurora to use engine...etc. Will the car drive for 250miles?

barrystl · November 2009

2001 Aurora with 98,000 miles. When I am trying to start the car and the engine is cold the engine just cranks and it seems like there is no fuel getting to the engine. After a 2-3 attempts to start the engine the car starts, but the engine seems to rev up a bit before settling down to a nominal RPM. When the engine is not cold, it starts just fine. I have checked the battery (fine), no codes being reported. Everything else appears fine. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

jack164 · November 2009

I am having the same problem. Did you receive any feedback on what is causing the hard starts? When my engine starts the RPM gauge goes all the way to 8,000rpm, even though the engine in idling normal. I turn off the ignition and start it again and the RPM gauge resets.

barrystl · November 2009

I have not received any replies about this issue. I think that I am going to be forced to take it to the shop in the next few days because the problem seems to be getting progressively worse. I will post the results of what the repairman tells me.

coreyg1 · November 2009

Regarding the posts about the hard start issue. I had this problem with mine on two separate occasions. When I would go to start the car. I'd turn the key and it would crank and crank for a long period of time before it would fire/start up. This sounds like what ya'll are experiencing. I had to replace the Fuel Pressure Regulator(FPR) on two separate occasions within the last 4 years or so. It was actually a very easy fix. Very easy to remove and replace(i am not a car dude), it is located on the top of the engine. Hope this helps!

barrystl · November 2009

coreyg1 - Thanks for the input. I will see if I can get the FPR at the auto parts store and replace it over the Thanksgiving weekend. I will post the results. Thanks again for your (hopefully) helpful reply.

pscheid · November 2009

Where are you looking for the tank? Mine replaced last month with a new one. Part took less than a day to get.......$455.

barrystl · November 2009

I bought a new FPR ($50) and replaced it in about 15 minutes. The car runs great!

ranaurora · November 2009

Am thinking i'm having same problem. Is the fpr valve located on front fuelrail on driverside i have a 95 aurora

barrystl · November 2009

On my 2001 Aurora the FPR is located on the end of the fuel rail on the drivers side and toward the back of the engine. On my car there is a clip holding it on and a tube coming out of it. It was pretty easy to change. Good Luck!

cadillacraig · December 2009

I feel dumb that I havent found the starter motor. I was instructed to do a test to figure out this non starting problem. I need to remove a wire from the solonoid and I havent found it yet. Someone please help. Thank you. Craig

cag4 · January 2010

car begin stalling august had tune up new gas filter etc. began stalling again read blog about putting rear widow defrost on and neutral when starting WORKED! BEEN RUNNING FINE
Went to dealership yesterday for oil change and brakes told I need an idle air control valve ($625.00) and Air pump ($545) They also charged $100.00 too test for this. I told them I did not want to do it.
When I picked up car it barely would start. In reading blogs see sensor issues mentioned for this problem. Afraid dealeship will keep finding things until I am broke. Where can I go that I can get an honest answer or talk intelligenty about my problem.

jiml4 · January 2010

My elderly father-in-law's 95 aurora keeps stalling out. He's replaced crank sensors, had the car gone over thoroughly by mechanics, nothing helps.
Help!

bambilla · April 2010

I recently had the factory recall finished on my aurora. they replaced the fuel rail and fitting ..since the car had been boggin down...I figured the gas delivery was the problem. but when I got it back the engine lightcame on. It gets to running rough when i get between 10mph and 20 mph?

kukiekemp · April 2010

have a oldsmobile aurora95 and i think we are just about done with it! we got the car in 07 and it ran good till i think the cold hit cant remember but anyways we have had a lot of things go wrong with the car (we love it but just sick of it) it:
chugging sputting engine light on sticky gas bad powerSLOW missfires we have had the lights just come on in the middle of the night when keys are not in hmmm
but ya my poor husband has worked on it foe so long and we have kids and im sick of feeling like if we take the car we need the tools in the back or i my be sitting on the side of the road:( we just dont know what do do with it anymore we have put some money into it and just not getting anything good back we have taking it in we thought maybe elc.prob but they said cant find anything wrong it cks out fine so what to do know is what we ask???? if you or anyone could HELP I would love it thanks so much:)

bob376 · June 2010

I have a 96 Aurora. When the car gets hot the cooling fan does not kick into high speed causing the car to get too hot. Mechanic told me I needed a new PCM unit. Could it be anything else like the thermostat or other fan controls?

dano853 · June 2010

About a month ago my 95 started running on about 6 cylinders when cold. once the car warmed up it was better but sometimes after a stop it would accelerate very poorly. Not a rough idle as much as a lack of power in general. Sometimes I would pull out into traffic and couldn't accelerate enough to get up to speed within a 1/4 mile.
Yesterday just before I got home it got suddenly worse. Almost like when the engine runs out of gas. No acceleration... and even though the engine dieseled and sputtered it still ran for about 2 minutes. I could get no acceleration. Putting it in neutral and pressing the gas did nothing. It finally quit when trying to cross a speed bump. Now it will start maybe... but diesel and sputter only for 5 to 10 seconds then it dies. Not sure if its an electrical or fuel issue. Sound familiar to anyone? I'm broke... unemployed, and the ECM will not communicate with my mechanic's diagnostic unit. This car has had occasional issues with #1 coil, but nothing recent. And last week the oil pressure light came on a for a few seconds, but not since. HELP!

bsawrey · October 2010

My 95 with 105,000 miles has slowly developed a hard start problem when the engine warms; it cranks just fine but won't fire until 6-8 seconds of cranking, then is erratic for another 2-4 seconds until calming down, at which point it runs just fine. This problem is not present when the engine is cold or when immediately restarting when hot. Found plug wires damaged, replaced plugs and wires but this had no effect on performance. No "check engine" light and no noticeable performance issues, but I gotta get this fixed before I burn out an $800 starter.

Any ideas?

lorinlindberg · November 2010

A water hose sprung a leak and by the time I noticed the computer said engine overheating turn off air conditioner. Before I could pull over it said engine hot turn off. I finally cooled the engine down and remover the pressure cap and refilled the system leaving the cap off so I could at least get the car home. Well now the engine idles at 2500 RPM and slams into gear when shifted. Is this a computer problem or glitch? Is there a way to reset the computer to factory presets?
I need help.

suzanne14 · November 2010

The starter motor is under the intake manifold. To test a starter you use a screwdriver to short out the battery terminal to the solenoid switch terminal. So lay the screwdriver so it's touching both the large battery terminal to the small switch terminal. The engine will now crank if the starter is good.

suzanne14 · November 2010

There is a temperature coolant sensor that tells the fan when to turn on. if you disconnect the connecter to it both fans will run all the time like they did in cars of the past. Your car will never overheat again probably but the check engine light will be on. The reason for this sensor is to save gas but really it doesn't matter much. The sensor is screwed into the engine block on drivers side towards the back and you have to remove some things to get to it or even see it.

suzanne14 · November 2010

Also, the heat will still work fine if you do this. I did it on my kid's aurora because the coolant sensor went out twice and I was sick of fixing it.

Oldsmobile Aurora Engine Problems

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