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Subaru Legacy/Outback Oil and Other Fluid Questions

dliboirondliboiron Member Posts: 10
Will using a synthetic oil increase my overall gas mileage?

I drive a '97 Legacy Outback AWD, 2.5.

Comments

  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I don't think it will make a measureable, significant change, so not really.

    Won't hurt, certainly.
  • kathrynwkathrynw Member Posts: 3
    I just recently bought a 1998 Subaru Legacy Outback, I started smelling oil burning, and it worried me. I looked under the hood and there is oil all over my radiator, and inside of the radiator. Are these Subaru models known for this problem, and does anyone know what it could be?
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    No, Subarus are not known for this. In fact this is the first I've ever heard of it.

    Are you sure that what you're seeing is oil, and not antifreeze?

    Oil "in" the radiator is not a good sign. It indicates a possible cracked engine block, a cracked cylinder head or a gasket problem. Oil "outside" the engine could mean cracked external oil lines, or again a cracked engine block. Since you mentioned oil in the radiator my guess is a cracked engine block or cylinder head.

    Pray that I'm wrong, as you're looking at big bucks to repair that.

    Bob
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Something doesn't sound right here at all. I highly doubt that the oil could be in and on the radiator at the same time. Do you mean in the rad, like in the radiator fluid? or in it like in the fins of the rad?

    -mike
  • kathrynwkathrynw Member Posts: 3
    there is oil in the radiator, mixed with the coolant, i guess. if you open to radiator and put your finger in, it comes out black.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    First thing to do since the car is new-to-you is get the coolant flushed and then keep checking it. If it gets contaminated again then you have a headgasket or a cracked block problem.

    -mike
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Agreed - and she could also be experiencing multiple problems. The external oil leak could be a result of leaking camshaft/crankshaft seals and/or valve cover gaskets. These leak down and drip on the exhaust headers, creating the burning oil smell. If it gets bad enough, you will see smoke billowing around your car at intersections and other stops once the exhaust system heats up sufficiently. It is a real joy ( :sick: ), but a drop in the bucket compared to the head gasket (or block) problem.

    Head gaskets and seals are a fairly common issue with the 1998 2.5L model. Cost of repair, if it is a head gasket problem, is about $2000.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • kathrynwkathrynw Member Posts: 3
    we drained the coolant yesterday, there was no oil in it. my friend looked at it and said that it could very well have been someone just poured oil into the overflow resevoir. we flushed the radiator, and now it seems to be doing fine.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Cool. I always try to direct folks toward the simple fixes before going crazy with the sky is falling routine. It probably needed a rad flush anyway! Glad to hear it worked out.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Glad to hear that, however....

    Given the previous owner put oil in the coolant overflow tank, you might want to have all the fluids changed to be safe! :surprise:
  • kcardona73kcardona73 Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know the degree I need to torque the timing to so I can begin fixing this problem?
  • dakotadriverdakotadriver Member Posts: 29
    Has anyone ever heard of Ethos Fuel Reformulator? Allegedly increases mileage by up to 19 - 20%, lowers emissions, and lubricates and cleans internal parts (for more power, smoother running engine, longer lasting engine, etc.) I've watched some of the testimonials (including one from Al Unser from NASCAR) and numerous testimonials from people running trucking firms, etc. They also include local TV station stories on this product showing emissions test before and after, etc. My question is: would this harm the car in any way that you can think of? I normally do not believe any claims of better mileage and such but this one seems to be different from a lot of the other products out there in that I have not found any negatives online like you can for most other products advertised as doing the same thing, and the emission testing results on the videos from Las Vegas and Dallas local news seem to be confirming the claims (with increased mileage). I feel like trying it out but I do not want to cause any damage to my engine.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    20%?

    Maybe if you add 3.38 gallons of the stuff to your tank (i.e. 20% of the fuel tank capacity).
  • paulmanpaulman Member Posts: 10
    I need to add fluid to the transfer case, but do not know how. Can this be done fairly easily, or must it be done by a mechanic? Thanks, Paul
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Transfer case.... the center differential? What is it, auto trans or manual? It is easy either way, just a different point of entry for the two types, as the manual's center differential shares its fluid with the transmission.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • paulmanpaulman Member Posts: 10
    Sorry, I've had a few Ford trucks and it's called a transfer case, as you know. It's an automatic and the car seems to "hop" a bit when I make slow, sharp turns. It was fixed last time by the mechanic addind fluid to the center diff. I want to do it myself. Do you know how to add fluid?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    On an automatic there is 3 places to check for fluid.

    Front Diffy, which is the PASSENGER SIDE behind engine, in engine bay.
    Transmission/center diffy, which is DRIVER SIDE behind engine, in engine bay.
    Rear Diffy, which is in the back on the actual diffy.

    Front and rear Diffy takes 70-90 GL5 Gear Oil
    Trans takes ATF (I suggest Amsoil or Redline High Temp ATF)

    -mike
  • paulmanpaulman Member Posts: 10
    Thanks so much for the free know-how.

    Just to confirm that I know what you're saying: Even in automatics the center diffy and the trany share fluid? That is, if the trany fluid level is fine, then the center diffy level is fine as well.

    And so, I'll check this but I think it may be more than a fluid issue.

    I had the car at a trany shop last year b/c it was doing the same thing. All he said was that he added fluid. I recall him saying something like "the "hop" is caused by the 4x4 being engaged when it shouldn't be". Could fluid level cause this?

    Part of the problem is I don't know how all-time 4x4 works. Is it always front wheel drive except when slippage is sensed, and the the 4x4 kicks in? Could my car be improperly locked in 4x4 mode? That is, could the center diffy be broken? How would I know?

    Sorry for all the Qs.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Sorry for the late reply.

    On an automatic subie of that vintage there are clutch packs that vary the power between the front diffy and the rear driveshaft. As a differential of speed is sensed F/R the clutch packs (electronically controlled) will tighten up and send power front or rear. They are similar to the clutch packs found in the automatic trans and therefore share the same fluid (your trans takes about 9-12 quarts of fluid).

    Hope this helps.

    -mike
  • paulmanpaulman Member Posts: 10
    Thanks Mike,

    The fluid was low and I added amost a quart. Problem is much better. There's still a slight hopping in slow sharp (to wheel lock) turns. I suspect a little damage to the clutch pad in 6 mos of low fluid. Thanks again.

    Paul
  • bigdog62bigdog62 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought this used Outback, 01, very clean runs great. One thing, the sprayer doesn't work on the wipers. I check the fuse- it looks good. Pulled a hose under the hood, nothing coming out, so I assume it's the "motor" or another connection. I can't seem to disconnect the two wires I see connected to this. Any thoughts on this. The fuse looked old, but it wasn't blown, that is certain.

    Thoughts??
  • thallbergthallberg Member Posts: 18
    It is probably the washer motor. These are pretty easy to replace. At the bottom front of the washer fluid bottle are two small motors, one for the front and one for the rear. You can tell which one is which by following the tubing leading from them.
    Remove the bottle by removing the top two bolts and freeing the assorted tubing from clamps on the side. The wires are a little difficult to pull out, but come off easier when the reservoir is lifted up. Pull the motor out and replace with the new one. It would be a good idea to replace the rubber grommet around it also. These little motors run about 40 to 60 dollars.
  • dgarleppdgarlepp Member Posts: 4
    Hi, I have a 1995 Legacy AWD, I need to replace the water pump.
    Anybody have any tips to make this a smother operation. I have the service manual, it looks like quite a job. I need to get a compression gauge to set the engine at top dead center first. I'm going to change the timing belt also.
    Any thoughts would be great
    Thanks
    Dan
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Why do you need to set the engine at TDC?

    When I replaced my water pump, at about 177,000 miles, it took about four hours to do the task. I also had assistance, but we were working in a shop with which we were unfamiliar, so finding tools took some extra effort/time. I never made any special effort to set mine to TDC, and had no problems with it any of the five times I had the timing belt off the car.

    Replace the thermostat while you are in there, and also your upper and lower radiator hoses if they are original or very old. The job is fairly straight forward, but it does take some time to dig down to the pump, put everything back together, and then refill the cooling system. Be CAREFUL with the timing cover bolts and the water pump bolts. They are small (10 mm heads?) and are not very forgiving when it comes to torque.... ;)
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • jsantzjsantz Member Posts: 1
    you'll save time and maintenance
  • 97legacygt97legacygt Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 subaru legacy and I know what kind of gear oil my center differential needs but how much does it take?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Take a look here, and put in your vehicle information. It will give you information about all your vehicle's fluids; capacities are listed near the bottom.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Says 1.7 pints, FWIW.

    Do this - remove the top bolt FIRST, that's critical, because if you can't remove it and you drain the fluid by removing the bottom bolt only, you'll never be able to fill it with fluid again.

    Remove the bottom bolt 2nd, drain the oil in an oil drain pan.

    Replace the bottom bolt, and use a hand pump to add oil in the top hole. The stuff is thick so be ready for a little bit of work here, especially if it's cold.

    Basically buy one quart and top it off. When it begins to spill, it's full. Wipe it clean.

    Replace the top bolt, voila, you're done.

    Now go shower because your wife will hate the smell of gear oil cologne. :shades:
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I bought one that looks sort of like this at the local Pep Boys:

    image
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Do this - remove the top bolt FIRST, that's critical, because if you can't remove it and you drain the fluid by removing the bottom bolt only, you'll never be able to fill it with fluid again.

    Remove the bottom bolt 2nd, drain the oil in an oil drain pan.

    Replace the bottom bolt, and use a hand pump to add oil in the top hole. The stuff is thick so be ready for a little bit of work here, especially if it's cold.

    Basically buy one quart and top it off. When it begins to spill, it's full. Wipe it clean.

    Replace the top bolt, voila, you're done.


    This is for the rear differential. For the front/center, there should be a dipstick, and the fluid is filled there. There is a drain in the bottom that now uses a T70 Torx fitting, though a T60 works fine, too (T70 can be tough to find!). I am not sure if the Torx was being used on your model year, but the drain plug should be pretty easy to find - between the oil pan plug and the transmission pan plug (if yours is an automatic).
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Whoops, misread that, my bad.

    Yeah, look for a yellow dipstick. Not easy to find, though.

    For that instead of the pump use a funnel with a long tube attached to it.

    It'll take far more than just one quart, also.

    The drain plug is a flat nut at the bottom of the transmission casing, IIRC I want to say it's a 17mm? Maybe bigger.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    That sounds about right. I know many late '90s and early '00s had issues with incompetent shops messing up the oil changes by draining differentials and overfilling engines. That may be the reason a Torx is used now. The engine oil pan's nut is 17mm.

    I use the pump to fill my front/center differentials as well. I have a long-neck funnel, but it is tough to access that opening, especially on newer models. When I put the synthetic 75w-90 in my 2010 Forester a couple weeks ago, there is no way I could have accessed the port with a funnel. I had to pump a gallon of gear lube by hand. Well, i think it was something like 7.9 pints, so almost a gallon, but that is for a manual transmission, so I would think the differential only needs about half of that. I'm just being lazy and not using my own link to look up the info for the OP. :P
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    LOL :D

    I used a funnel with a long plastic tube. That tube ran down to the dip stick, which is also the fill hole for gear oil on the manual trans.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    First of all there is NO fluid that is user serviceable on the CENTER DIFFY on a Subaru.

    If this is an Automatic you have Front Diffy, Rear Diffy and the Automatic Trans Fluids.

    If this is a MT, then you have Front Diffy combined with the Manual Trans Fluid and the Rear Diffy.

    Front Diffy on an AT takes less than 1 Quart, Rear takes about 1 Quart.
    Front Diffy + Manual Trans on an MT takes 3 Quarts, Rear takes about 1 Quart.

    Filling the Front Diffy on the AT is a Dipstick (the side will depend if it's a Turbo or a Non Turbo).
    Filling the Automatic Trans Fluid is a Dipstick (the side will depend if it's a Turbo or not)
    Rear Diffy on AT or MT is upper bolt on the casing itself.

    -mike
    Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I worked on my front diff/manual trans.
  • nv1znv1z Member Posts: 2
    Then what is one supposed to do if one has an issue where the suspected culprit is the center differential?

    I have a 1990 Subaru Legacy that appears to have some center differential issues. It is an AWD model, but when both front wheels OR both rear wheels are on a low-traction surface, one of the wheels on that axle spins and torque is not shifted to the other axle. In other words, both axles get torque at different times, but no shifting of torque between axles happens when it is supposed to.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    If the center differential is the problem, a transaxle rebuild is on the horizon.... :cry:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • jim355jim355 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 outback and after a recent engine change the transmittion ( or transfer case ) started slipping and now there is fluid coming from the fill port of the transfer case and the transmittion is empty of fluid. There is a loud grinding noise when trying to drive but with the car on jack is dosent make the noise and seems to trun the wheels fine. What could it be. A bad transmittion, transfer case or torque converter?
  • 204meca204meca Member Posts: 369
    Any comments / experience on the pros / cons of using synthetic fluids for front & rear diffentials?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    I use synthetic 75w-90 in my Subaru(s), both front and rear differentials, and it makes for easy moving on cold mornings (0F and colder) compared to the stock fluid. I love it - the very first thing I do when I get a new Subaru is change out the differential fluid to synthetic.

    Cons? Well, my '08 Outback, with its rear LSD, chattered a little when I spun the tires, but a little slip lock cleared that right up. I only drove it 300 miles (on dry pavement) before changing the fluid, so I am not sure if the chatter would have occurred with the OEM oil.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • wolverin13wolverin13 Member Posts: 1
    OK BUT WHAT IT HAVE TO BE DONE
    I EAR THAT IS BETTER TO CHANGE THE WHOLE ENGINE
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Nah, that's like building a new house because the roof leaks! :P
  • subbie4reversubbie4rever Member Posts: 1
    This just started happening to my car tonight!! Its very loud, and I cant seem to make it go away at all, check lots, think i found where the sound is coming from, i had my hood up and was rolling it verry slowing to discover where the sound was coming from, not too sure what it is but I can see it looking down from my engine (thanks to a new intake I just put it getting rid of the big air box.) and it had like an axle to a boot to a green cylinder to a box. Did you find out what it was?! Please need help!!!

    Anyone!!
    Thank you!! :sick:
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