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Who is Happy with their Jeep Liberty CRD?

24

Comments

  • offthegrideroffthegrider Member Posts: 11
    Hello, all I was advertising my CRD for sale and today I spoke with a perspective buyer who told me he had changed his mind because he had found alot of info. on the net about an erg valve
    needing replacement and that it costs too much, $1,000.
    I have had no problems yet with it and is still under warranty till 70k and I am at 66k. It did shut down recently, but had all the symptoms as if caused by the fuel filter needing replacement. The dealer said after it was towed to him, that it started up and ran fine. I made him replace the fuel filter anyways. I never heard about the ERG issue till today. How much does it cost and how do I know when it is to be replaced ? I do not trust that the dealer is being thorough and jumping to catch these things while still under warranty. The dealer has been more ambitious trying to get me to trade in and buy new.
    I am not so sure if I even really want to sell it, as I am the first owner and originally intended to convert to bio-diesel or veggie. Since the BP spill and prices upping ,I am reconsidering. Any replies and comments welcome thank you in advance. Also, anybody know how I can purchase extra warranty coverage at this point past the original 70 k coverage?
  • diesologydiesology Member Posts: 3
    egr from the dealer is about 250.00 . you can buy one on ebay new for 180.00 and put it on yourself.
    did dealer put car on the drb III scanner to see if there were any egr or turbo codes?
    many dealers do not want to put any effort into repair of these vehicles under warranty. i guess chrysler does not pay them enough.

    some of these liberty diesels including mine and my friend's, decide (ECM) to stop providing highway power, and just go into limping mode. in both cases, just shutting off the engine and letting the ecm reset, cured the event. this happened one time to each of our vehicles.
  • nottowaynottoway Member Posts: 67
    I had a problem with my CRD losing power and running like only one cylinder was firing. Replaced the Mass Airflow Sensor on the air intake next to the air filter and seems to have corrected the problem. Still have the "check engine" lite on for past 5,000 miles saying there is some intake air imbalance. My mechanic says they don't know exactly what it is and they want to go exploring.They turn it off and it takes about 3 days and a few hundred miles and pops back on. At 131,000 miles, I am just going to run it. Fuel mileage still same as new 20 mpg. Sometimes 100% Bio and sometime low sulfur #2.
    What are symptoms of bad erg valve ???
  • gabednargabednar Member Posts: 3
    While looking for another car for myself, my wife and I stumbled into a 2005 Liberty CRD 4x4, immaculate, with only 48000 actual miles. I hesitated buying because of the engine, but ended up getting it 5/30/10. All the neighbors thought it was brand new. I am waiting to see what kind of mileage I get, hopefully at least the low 20's in town.
  • gardener9gardener9 Member Posts: 5
    I'd be happier if I could find where the throttle body is so I can replace it. :mad: :confuse: :surprise:
  • biodieselmanbiodieselman Member Posts: 41
    I was informed by the jeep mechanic at my dealer........get this......There IS no throttle body on the Liberty diesel.

    How do I know? I took my gas Liberty in because it was sputtering and they cleaned the throttle body. When I took my diesel Libby in for the same problem that was when I learned..no throttle body on diesel. They changed the exhaust gas recirculation valve and that solved my sputtering problem. It only had about 12,000 miles back then and the new one now has 90,000 trouble free miles. I think the new ones are made of stainless steel so they don't clog up.

    I have studied auto mechanics all my life. I couldn't imagine how to control an engine without a throttle body.

    With gas, the carburetor uses the airflow to draw the gas into a spray mixture before introduction to the combustion chamber. Opening the throttle causes more air to enter at a faster rate and it draws more gas which translates to more power.

    With injection such as the diesel has, the air is constant. There is always pressure from the outside atmosphere. If you wish to add power, first add fuel. That causes the pistons to be pushed downward with more force, thereby drawing in more air to which you add more fuel and away you go. Why doesn't it rev out of control? It can't because the injectors are limiting the amount of fuel.

    Think of a campfire. There is a constant amount of air available. If you want more heat (power) add more fuel. The amount of fuel controls the amount of heat (power). If you blow on a campfire, you are adding to the amount of air available as with adding a turbo charger to a diesel.

    I guess the bottom line is this, even with a wide open air intake, the diesel can only rev as fast as the amount of fuel available. And the injectors control that.

    Seems to me they could eliminate the throttle body on gas engines too if they have fully controllable injectors. I do know the gas throttle body is used to measure the amount of throttle pedal being applied but since gas is so much more volatile perhaps that is why they still use a throttle body on gas.

    Who knows, in time maybe the throttle body will be a thing of the past just like the distributor and points on pre 1970's cars.

    I use Howes diesel treatment with every fill up and I have not had any problems related to the engine or fuel system.

    EXCEPT, you need to change the fuel filter at least every 15,000 miles. I aim for 10,000. AND be sure you use the fuel treatment that removes water and prevents gelling in cool weather. Not just COLD weather, cool as down to 40 degrees F. Water can cause running problems if the filter gets too much water in it.

    One time I had almost no power when I left the house. I stopped at a station where lots of semis stop for meals and was told to add Howes. I used about double the recommended amount and let it idle for about five minutes to circulate. When I took off, still no power but about five miles up the road the power came back and problem solved. There was too much water in the filter and the Howes split it up little by little so it could be drawn through and burned. Using a good fuel additive wil prevent that little frustrating problem.
  • biodieselmanbiodieselman Member Posts: 41
    Maybe I am just blessed. Blessed by having a five star dealer who sent his tech to diesel school as soon as they hit the show room and blessed that I got a cherry CRD. At about 12,000 miles it quit going into lock up two days before I got the recall. The tech at the dealer replaced the torque converter and completely disassembled and cleaned the transmission. About a week later it started sputtering, this time it meant a new EGR valve which now has 90,000 miles on it. Maybe a month later it acted up and I took it in for what ended up being a fuel filter problem. That fixed it for the moment. Later I learned to use Howes fuel treatment summer and winter.

    About 18 months after I bought it they called and suggested I bring it in for software updates. It shifted into fifth gear a bit later but I have had none of the problems experienced by other owners. That must have been the magic bullet.

    The only problems I have had since are all related to fuel filters. So now if there is a problem that is the first thing I do.
  • offthegrideroffthegrider Member Posts: 11
    First thank you to those that answered my last post. Last Friday I was heading home after a trip to California and again with no warning what's so ever the jeep started loosing power pedal to the medal. 2k miles ago the dealer found nothing but I made him replace the fuel filter anyways. Which he forgot to do and I had to bring it back in 200 miles round trip and no discount or consideration 150.00 ff replaced.Now 2k miles and far from home traveling with pets and valuables I had thee worst ever experience with the dealer in Burlingame Ca ! I sopke with the service mgr. at 4 pm while waiting for the tow. I explained that I had pets and valuables and that I needed a rental car asap to tranport all of us to find lodging.
    He was un-willing to do anything twlling me by the time I arrive the rental place next door would be closed and that I would have to get a car from the airport. Guess ? no pick up. The service people at 7 pm were un friendly un accomodating and all spoke english clearly as their 1rst language. After 3 hrs. of inconvienance and I recalled what I read on this forum and calmly started my jeep up yes it was resetted and drove away knowing I was not going to trust this dealer to insure that the problem was addressed before I drive through 2 days of desert to get home. Now the Jeep Chrysler road service could not even give me accurate dealerships as I found 2 no longer existed. So I had them tow the jeep from a motel to Dublin. Both Dublin and San Jose dealers could not even look at it until Tuesday. So since it and we are sitting from Friday to Tuesday idol awaiting hopefully a reliable solution so that I do not end up broken down with my family again. WTF, I am outraged that we are treated this way. A homeless person with no credit and nothing ,gets better regard than I have gotten from Chrysler Jeep after purchasing this CRD new in 2005. This is like if your stupid enough to buy my poorly made throw away product for over 20k, then you deserve to get f'ed.
    does BP own Chrysler Jeep as well? I had an alternator go out at 30k and have had so many other things that should not have been.100.00 deductable a pop and countless inconvienances and after reading others experiences esp. with the gas non crd, I cannot sell this jeep fast enough!
  • biodieselmanbiodieselman Member Posts: 41
    Wow, this is most disturbing.
    I suggest you write to the chrysler complaint dept. the address should be in your owners manual and let them know how you were treated by that dealer. maybe they should have let that one go under and keep one of the others that are now gone. I sure hope they get a definite answer to this problem. Makes me wonder if the other dealer actually changed the filter.
    You might have had a lot of water in the fuel tank.
    Call it overkill if you wish, but I use a treatment summer and winter. Pick a brand that removes water and use it every fill up. From here I can't be certain that was your problem but it would at least rule that out.
    Something else just came to mind. Twice traveling on interstate, I pulled into rest stop and left engine running to be certain the turbo had time to cool down. With the air conditioner running. When I came out and tried to leave, I headed down the entrance ramp and punched it to merge into traffic and there was no extra power. I had to dive for the shoulder because there were semis coming. Not knowing what to think, I coasted far off the road and turned the key off. After about a minute I restarted and this time it ran perfect. Two times that happened.
    I mentioned that to my diesel tech and he said there were no reports of that in any tech bulletins. But twice it happened in exactly identical circumstances. Now if I leave it idle when I hit the rest stop, I turn the key off for a minute and restart before I head back into traffic.
    I sure hope your problem gets fixed and that is the end of your troubles.
    My CRD has been trouble free for almost 50,000 miles. I hope yours will to now.
    Best of luck to you.
  • gardener9gardener9 Member Posts: 5
    Hey there, this just happened to me as well. I also have a 2005 CRD. Here is what I know is going on with mine and I believe that this slowing problem is related. (and like you I can't sell mine fast enough, I'm very disappointed, it was the worst decision I've ever made as far as cars go). Ok, so I had a check engine light on in my car. I took it to the dealer, they said it's a throttle body malfunction. And that I needed it replaced. But there is no real throttle body on a diesel. So I was skeptical. I did a tremendous amount of research learning about the CRD, and after finally calling my dealer and asking for part numbers was I able to figure out what really is wrong.

    A little background: My check engine light said P1140, the part numbers they said I needed were: 5142799AA (this is what the dealer called the throttle body) and 55037730AD a hose (not quite sure where to).

    5142799AA seems to be related to the EGR valve and is number 6 on this diagram link title Still when I look up the part through a Mopar catalog, Mopar calls it a Throttle valve, so go figure??

    Anyhow, it is this throttle valve that is the largest problem, I have read on several occasions others with this same problem where their throttle valve is not working correctly and they have a hard time with their car and it ends up stalling from time to time, slowing or not able to accelerate when you get to a certain RPM, mine did this getting onto the highway and my pedal was floored. Shaky starts and stops where the engine kinda rumbles beneath you. (more than normal)

    The kicker is that at least in the USA, this 5142799AA part is on back order, and not even available till the end of this month. I've been waiting for quite a while. The only good news is this part is held in place by just a few screws and it is pretty easy to get to. I am going to try my hand at fixing it myself. Maybe you can too, (if you're out of warranty.) it looks pretty easy, and I'm a girl. LOL.

    Well good luck and hope it turns out well for you :)
  • gabednargabednar Member Posts: 3
    Not sure how to proceed. I have a 2005 Liberty CRD with 48000 actual miles. Car runs great, doesnt smoke, tranny shifts beautifully, engine rpm is never high. Car even has 2 years of powertrain warranty left. Problem is, city mpg is a consistently nasty 15, and I dont know what to start looking at as far as a possible cause. I need help.
  • biodieselmanbiodieselman Member Posts: 41
    I would carefully examine my driving style. Even if it seems traffic is racing away from you at stop lights, avoid the temptation to goose it because it doesn't take much to activate the turbo which means it dumps in extra fuel. That little 2.8 Liter four cylinder is then slurping fuel like a 4.2 liter six cylinder. Also, watch traffic lights that have a long delay on red. Try to take a different route if you don't have to drive too far out of the way. Watch the cetane rating of the fuel you are buying. Get the highest rating you can find. You might get a bit of help by adding a cetane booster, but there again they do cost money. But, you might increase the mileage enough to eliminate a few fuel stops each month. I tend to let traffic run ahead of me in two of the towns I often travel to because the lights are often red if I hurry from one to the other. Cars on the multi lane often pass me, and switch into my lane only to have me pull up behind them just as the light turns green. They hurried for nothing. Fuel wasted to beat me to the light!!
    If you can stand it, pump the tires to the highest number allowed on the sidewall of the tire. The ride will stiffen and the railroad tracks may become a terror but mileage WILL improve. If you need the air conditioning on, use the recirculation setting and operate the fan at the lowest speed you can be comfortable with.
    The jack rabbit start and the tires are probably the two biggest ones in the suggestions.
    I hope that gives you some help. I live in the country and usually only go to small towns about 15 miles away, so who knows, if I lived in big city maybe I would only get 15 mpg.
    Best of luck, I'm glad you have a good runner.
    Mine now has 90,000 miles and it only went to the dealer for the recalls. NO problems here.
    I know, ....... I am a very lucky guy.
  • pikehunterpikehunter Member Posts: 1
    A couple of things for novices:

    * The highest cetane you can buy is 50 in the USA and you will find it called Premium Diesel. But, really the lowest is 40 - so you're safe pretty much anywhere in between;

    * Use of additives isn't really necessary, as most bulk sellers will have added a winter blend - usually Power Service to their tanks starting in October up North.

    * If you want to use an additive, the best is Stanadyne - which does not contain alcohol or methanol - IOW it won't freeze in the tool box. Other choices like Lucas, Howes and Power Service are ok to use. Use Power Service "Red" for emergency only.

    * Going to a narrower tire will improve mileage without jolting you around by maxing out the pressure. Just remember to have your mechanic adjust the tranny, if not the same rolling dimension.

    * Always carry a spare oil and fuel/water separator in your tool box. One load of water will remind you to bring them. Make sure you dump your water separator every 5-8k miles - in a safe place and not near groundwater.

    * Brand loyalty aside - diesel fuel is diesel fuel, there's no difference between brands, only the amount of water that's in the tanks. It all comes out of the same pipeline, exc for Cenex. Cenex (PNW) has a soy blend which keeps our engines running much better than regular #2D.
  • biodieselmanbiodieselman Member Posts: 41
    I am embarrassed to admit I don't even know how to dump the water separator. I do however used Howes with every fill up to avoid problems with water and/or gelling. Evidently it works because I have changed the fuel filter every 10,000 miles and not had any problems since I stated using Howes. It must break up water molecules and move it through in tiny pieces with the fuel.

    The first time I had a problem a guy suggested adding Howes and about ten miles down the road the power came back. I have added it every fill since then.
    Thanks for the tip about Cenex. My Libby loves the 20% soy blend I buy at a station in Monroe, WI. It runs noticeably quieter on that.

    Other people have mentioned Stanadyne, I believe I will hunt some down. I never noticed it at the store where I buy my Howes.

    Thanks for the info.
  • cowpie1cowpie1 Member Posts: 4
    edited July 2010
    I have a 2006 Liberty CRD that I bought new. around 70K miles on it now. Not a problem. Even original brakes are good still. Only thing I have ever done to it was lift it with a Frankelift II kit and replaced the upper A arms with Al's Arms and put in upper and lower greasable Moog ball joints. Opened up the exhaust as well. Been using Amsoil in everything. Still average around 31 mpg on long trips and roughly 25-26 mpg in combination driving. Did plug off the hose from CCV to turbo as soon as I bought it and routed another hose down to the ground for the CCV. Keeps oil out of CAC and intake. Unplugged the MAF, since some of us have found that this also reduces EGR by the ECM. Does throw a CEL, but I have a ScanGauge attached to the OBD port and just clear out the code after starting and that shuts off the CEL.

    Only maintenance I have had to do if fluids, filters and belts.

    One of the best vehicles I ever bought. Plows right thru good sized snow drifts, has no problem digging itself thru mud in the farm fields, and will pull a full 300 gallon fuel wagon thru the field without hesitation. And it is a real pleasure to drive. Wife is willing to shoot anyone who tries to take the Liberty from her! We enjoy a big laugh when someone comes up to her when she is fueling and says something like "do you know you are putting diesel in there?" She just tells them that she heard it got better fuel mileage than gasoline.

    Not bad having a solid vehicle that will tackle a lot of stuff and still get better fuel mileage than a lot of cars. I do use Howes additive in the winter (same stuff we used when I lived in Alaska for 10 years), but year round I use PRI-D from Power Research. Marine boating places have it, but I usually buy online at better pricing. This a great product that really perfoms. I have been using it in my semi, ag tractor, and jeep for quite a while and it really does a great job.
  • gardener9gardener9 Member Posts: 5
    Hi There,

    I've been having an ERG problem too. The dealer I took it to quoted me something like 600 some for parts and an additional 400 for installation.

    I've been hemming and hawing for quite a while now, cause it's so expensive, and then finally decided that I'm going to fix it myself. When I called some other dealers, must be variations on what dealers quote people, I have part number 5142799AA lists for 385.00, this is the EGR also sometimes called the throttle body by some dealers, but it's a misnomer cause there is no true throttle body in a diesel.
    I am also getting the gasket that goes between this, it is super cheap and ranges between 2.90 and 4. The part number is 5142613AA

    This part is fairly easy to get to, and appears to be held on by three screws. All quite accessible.

    The only unfortunate thing is the EGR part is on back order and they keep pushing it further and further back. Now they say that this part will be ready August 31! Wow that's a long wait.
  • gardener9gardener9 Member Posts: 5
    Oh and the other thing I keep on wondering about too, cause I've also been back and forth about selling mine because of this whole EGR thing and how expensive it is etc... is that through my research, it seems that Diesels need to be driven long distances to clear them out, and have them function well. I used to drive long distances five days a week commuting, then I relocated closer and it only now goes on short trips. So I am wondering if this is something that will always plague my CRD or if I were to do one of those bypass oil filtration systems from Amsoil that reduces soot down to two microns, if that would be the magic bullet that I need to be able to keep my CRD happy even on short trips around town. Cowpie1 do you have a good understanding of this, that you might be able to comment? It would be great to have some feedback!

    thanks :)
  • gardener9gardener9 Member Posts: 5
    I am late in responding, but I wanted to take the time to say Thanks, even if I am a bit late. I super appreciate your response. :)
  • cowpie1cowpie1 Member Posts: 4
    edited July 2010
    Get onto Ebay. They have had EGR's listed for quite a while. This one is for a new OEM EGR for $179. They also show having the EGR cooler, but few if any will need to replace that.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/05-06-JEEP-LIBERTY-EGR-VALVE-CRD-2-8L-DIESEL-MOPA- - R-OEM-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5ad6d201d8QQitemZ390151143896QQptZMotorsQ5fCar- - Q5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

    The flow control valve (FCV) is in the intake where some would think a throttle body would be. It is not a throttle body, but it does work in conjuction with the EGR and it is there also to keep the engine from "shuttering" when shut down. It was notorious for breaking since it used plastic gears. It has been improved. Could not locate one of those on Ebay.
  • cowpie1cowpie1 Member Posts: 4
    Diesels do like to be run for longer periods of time than short trips. They come into their own after getting thoroughly warmed up. The Amsoil bypass is a good unit, but not really that necessary. I do like using their oil in the CRD.

    The key to keeping that EGR from being a continual problem is two fold: You have to keep the CCV from puking oil into the turbo, which then flows into the charge air cooler and then on to the intake. This oil laden air then gets mixed with what the EGR sends to the intake and you have a gummed up mess that builds up in the intake and will coat the boost sensor. The only way to handle this is either to install a Provent system or just disconnect the hose from the CCV and plug it off then get some more hose and attach to the CCV and route to the ground. This is affectionately known as the Elephant Hose Modification (EHM). It is cheap and easy to do, but it will drip oil from the end of the hose.

    The next easy modification is what is called the Off Road Modification (ORM). It involves just unplugging the Mass Airflow Sensor near the air box. It has been determined by others, that this simple unplug will cause the ECM to restrict the amount of EGR that is used. Won't stop it completely, but will reduce it. It also throws a CEL, but some of us have the ScanGauge II plugged into the OBD port and just clear out the code after starting up.

    You have got to get a handle on the oily air coming from the CCV. It is a hocky puck looking device on the valve cover. That is critiical.

    If you are serious about really taking care of the EGR issues, as well as performance issues, then I would recommend the ECM tune by Green Diesel Engineering.

    http://www.greendieselengineering.com/goPage.do?method=home

    This is a total ECM reprogram and not some add on chip or plug in box. It is well tested and reliable. The cost is not cheap, but will solve a number of issues with the stock program. And, it dramatically reduces EGR function.

    Basically, use a good quality synthetic oil in the CRD, stop the oily air from getting in the intake, and reduce EGR function. This will do the most for reducing issues with this great little engine. Driving style is also very important. Soot will really build if you are doing the jackrabbit starts and driving it like a sports car. Diesels perform best when given steady accelerator and not stabbing it. It takes time for the turbo to spool up and get the boost where it needs to be. If you floor it, it will tend to overfuel and generate high soot. You don't have to drive like grandma, but accerate the pedal gradually and not just stomp it.
  • tdi_roostertdi_rooster Member Posts: 2
    Liberty CRD is definitely an eye catcher,
    - at truck stops you frequent
    - mileage averages whether city or highway it all adds up a hefty 30+
    - and if you like the fast lane you suffer the low mileage
    - but if you drive conservatively you reap the benefits of best mileage
    - don't be a left lane hugger if you can't keep up with the speeders they all pay
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Your post is interesting. I own a 2005 CRD and have not done any of the modifications you indicate would be beneficial. I have had the EGR replaced once and the CCV twice.

    I have no oil in the hoses to and from the CAC save for a slight film. I clean the boost pressure sensor on the intake manifold every 5000 miles (when I do an oil change). The little filter that goes on the boost controller gets changed yearly.

    As to EGR care, Caribou1 as well as the dealer have the same suggestion and that is to stomp on the gas from a dead start several times per week to blast all of the carbon out of the EGR and combustion chamber. I have been doing this religiously for several years with good results.

    As to a good synthetic oil, I agree. Avoid Mobil 1 as they have not kept up with technology. Amsoil is okay as is RedLine. I am using LubroMoly 5W-40 Synthoil. It like RedLine has a a low vaporization rate and very little oill consumption.
  • ceversoleceversole Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I am thinking about buying a Liberty CRD to eventually run biofuel. Could you tell me who you buy your fuel from and what it costs to deliver?

    Thanks!
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    HI, I see you have the ARB front bumper.
    I just purchased a 2006 jeep crd limited that I will be towing wiht my motorhome. and I am considering getting an ARB bumper to weld tow bar fittings onto rather than going with the standard tow plated that cost around $400 anyway.
    I figure the bumper will protect the jeep against preditors!
    How satisfied are you with your ARB and can I get a pic ?
    One guy told me that they sticg out too far, so I wonder how they look from the side.
    Thanks: Bob
    Unclebob9@Gmail.com
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Please don't post your email address in the Forums. Thanks!

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • gabednargabednar Member Posts: 3
    Bought a 2005 CRD Inferno Red, sport 4 x 4, in May with 48000 actual miles. I am now averaging 19 - 20 mpg in city only driving, with the a/c running almost all the time. I'd have to say that I am quite satisfied with it, but the suv makes me a little "uncomfortable", as it is the only diesel I have ever owned. Normal to feel this way? Also, how often are other owners actually giving their 4 wheel drive system a workout, and for how long?
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    Get into the forums and start reading. These are fantastic vehicles noce set up right. They are not set up right in stock condition. Your Miliage should be much better. Many are getting 30mpg freeway and 24MPG City.
    i jsut bought a 2006, still waiting for it to be shipped to me from Tx. to Ca. I have been doing my homework and have a list of things I will need to do to it when it gets here.
    I have had a Dodge diesel pick up since 1991 and it has been bullet proof. I have done a few things to it over the years to increase it's MPG and power and I intend to keep it forever. Diesels are intimidating because they are not normal to us. But once you get into them they are not much different than gas engines and a simplier stronger design.
    Read this, it is one of themost important minor maintenance things you must do.
    http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=50930&p=566347&hilit=J- eep+liberty+crd%2C+air+intake#p566347
    There are many other articles in this forum that will get you on the right track.
    Bob
  • biodieselmanbiodieselman Member Posts: 41
    The following site should give you all the info you need.

    My only problem with biodiesel would be in wintertime. When temps drop to 40F or colder be certain to add a fuel conditioner that prevents gelling and will remove water. Make sure it can do both, add according to the instructions and you will have no problem using biodiesel fuel up to 20%.. If you find a higher percentage I recommend doubling the amount of fuel treatment. Brands I have heard recommended are, Stanadyne, and Howes. There probably are others that work well too.

    http://www.biodiesel.org/buyingbiodiesel/retailfuelingsites/
  • cornaliuscornalius Member Posts: 4
    Got powertrain warranty til may 20011, should I wait till warranty expires before talking care of the emission upgrades ?
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    That's a catch 22. If you wait you will continue to gum up your motor and may cause engine damage. The only way you win is if you screw up your engine before the warrenty is up.
  • biodieselmanbiodieselman Member Posts: 41
    Either way be sure you are using a fuel treatment. I have not had one speck of trouble with my Libby. Maybe there is a disaster waiting for me as I have not had to service any of the components mentioned on this board but I have always used the Howes' fuel treatment. The dealer installed the upgraded EGR for me at about 12k miles so that was eliminated early on. I suspect the constant use of fuel treatment has had some effect with eliminating gumming up problems. Plus I run 20% biodiesel with almost every fill up and I live ten miles from the nearest town so she gets a good warm up everywhere I go.
  • cornaliuscornalius Member Posts: 4
    Been driving our new crd 2006 liberty limited for about 5 days now, the wife and I like very much so far except for the mpg which is not so good,we are getting between 15 to 17 miles per gallon hyw or city makes no difference,and that's from the overhead navigation system which they say is always high ,so most likely we are getting even less than that,by looking at the motor it looks like nothing has been done to it except the f30 something sticker on the motor,going to change fuel filter today see if that makes any difference,if anybody would like to suggest something it would be much appreciated.Sincerly Cornalius!
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    My overhead consol reads about 4MPG more on the freeway. My sisters Liberty reads about 4MPG less than actual.
    If you plan on keeping it for awhile, bite the bullet and get the GRD eco-tune, ($450).
    It will pay for itself in MPG within a year or 2.
    A Provent 200, is another item that will protect your engine from accumulating oil and gunk. If you shop the internet, they run around $150 or so.
    A dirty air filter will also screw with your MPG. AFE makes a Dry high flow air filter for the Liberty. The CRD used the same filter as the gas Liberty.
    i have had my Crd since August, I have been averaging about 24mpg Mixed driving and 28-30mpg strictly freeway.
    Best of luck: Bob 2006 CRD limited
  • cornaliuscornalius Member Posts: 4
    Well I change the fuel filter,clean the map,was totally gummed up,new air filter,unplugged the maf sensor, and a new hose from the ccv to the atmosphere,already notice a bit better gas mileage from 15 to 17.5 and almost 19 on the highway , I guess I'm good to go for now and do other mod later, are the segr still available if so where might a fellow get one.Thanks everybody
  • erharringtonerharrington Member Posts: 2
    I bought my 2006 CRD in FL. new. I now have 95000. Mi. and the only trouble I've had is 3 Idler pulley bushings, Air conditioning compressor, and one window regulator which Chrysler tells me that mine are covered by warranty forever now. I am hearing some whirring sound which I suspect is the smog pump due to a lower pitch than a turbo. I brought it to Boston 3 Months af the ter I bought it and have never garaged it or plugged it in and it has never failed to start right up. I use nothing but Amsoil in the crankcase @ 10,000 mile oil and filter changes. I've never touched the EGR system and had no complaints from the computer. I do drive it pretty hard and believe that actually using turbo helps in keeping the system clean. In the summer I use 100% bio when I can get it and only use Power Service fuel additive when I'm changing back and forth between Diesel fuel and Bio Fuel. I'm on my second fuel filter and have had no fuel problems. Put 145-70-R-16 Yokohama tires and change the whole persona of the car. It rides unbelievably quieter and softer. Would recommend this to anyone buying new tires. The Yokohama's are not quite as good in the snow, probably due to the increased width, but it is a very small trade off. Good luck.
  • kimgordonkimgordon Member Posts: 1
    I am very sorry I ever bought this vehicle.
    Its nickel and dime repairs are unacceptable.
    I lost the transmission at 60K
    I just lost the turbo at 90K
    I lost the bearing in the 4WD at 65K
    Major part failings that often, and that early are simple larceny.
    Jeep should be ashamed.
  • offthegrideroffthegrider Member Posts: 11
    Sorry to hear and while I have not had those things go bad, I have the foreboding feeling of what next. The engine seems to be fine but it is all the other jeep added components to that which fail grossly. Yea, this is just treasonous greedy and an embarrassing display of American products and I wish we had a recourse without having to pay Lawyers $$1,000's for no justice. regards. MS
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    They cut too many corners, but they are basically a good little vehicle, but not for the mechanically un-inclined. They need to be brought up to speed with after market additions: Provent, in-tank fuel pump/sending unit, are 2 fairly necessary upgrades. then if you are going to tow much a torque converter heavy enough to handle the engine torque is in your future.
    there are few factory mechanics in the USA who know alot about these, due to their scarsity. The backyard mechanice on these forums, are way ahead of most paid mechanics as far as knowledge about the CRD.
    In every vehicle there are Lemons and others that require little or no maintenance. This is mainly the result of the Manufacturers lack of quality control that led them into trouble the past 2 years.
    Personally I really like my 2006 CRD. but I read all the Forums, complaints and fix's prior to purchasing it and I made the recommended improvements within a month of buying it.
    Best of luck: Bob
  • erharringtonerharrington Member Posts: 2
    I've towed my fully 5000# boat many times but relatively short distances with no torque converter problems. Mine has the same torque converter and transmission as the dodge Ram 1500 Hemi pickup so I'm not to worried.
  • gotsolargotsolar Member Posts: 1
    I am!
    I got my '06 LTD Jeep certified pre-owned delivered to AZ from NJ with 9K miles on it and have thus far only done the normal maintenance called for by the book, plus replacement of the left rear window regulator.
    Freebie, indeed, now (almost ready for a recall) by any dealer for 06 owners.

    I've got 68K miles and she runs great, giving about 19-21 MPG combined city/hwy 25-70 MPH with 235-75/15, Big-O off road tread tires. I try to drive it for economy, slowing down way in advance to avoid stopping at lights, and most of the time I save my exploitation of the full range of travel of the accelerator pedal to passing where speeds can hit 85 for very short spurts.
    I've towed a trailer with a cord of wood several times, and do some near-technical off road, desert driving in sand & on mountain cow paths. I have run B100 to pure petro-diesel with no issues. My friends are as enamored with my rig as I am, and wouldn't have believed where it can go if they weren't sitting right there with me! The 2 chicken handles on each side have come in handy.

    I want to know more about these necessary aftermarket parts folks say are needed.
  • donrrdonrr Member Posts: 3
    Our 05 Liberty CRD averages 24 mpg (city&hwy) when wife drives, I average 27mpg! (city&hwy) the only modification has been a K&N air filter that drop right in. Your mpg come standard in 3.7 Something is wrong. EGR, Torque converter, fuel/water separator are potential problems see april 2011 diesel power magazine.
  • coolridercoolrider Member Posts: 84
    Wow seem like the problems continue on with the diesel that could have been great. After purchase new and 7,000 miles and 4 months the problems started. It was finally repurchased by Chrysler under the lemon law. It would out pull my tractor (when it would run) even in mud. Great mileage too with the same caveat. Wife really liked it for its solid feel and it had all the options including nav and bluetooth. After a tranny, turbo, 90 days plus in the shop still liked it. The wiring harness was replaced when it melted then the real problems started. When it would leave you stranded with out any warning the plug was finally pulled. So be real cautious in shopping by this model especially white ones.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    mine is whit, with 79,000 miles on it and seems flawless. I did do all the recommended up-grades on the Lostjeeps forum to prevent engine problems.
    I agree this thing pulls a trailer like its not even there, my 2000 Liberty would fishtail while pulling my 2 quads on a 16' flatbed, this liberty I do not even feel it back there and it runs steep hills with little effort.
  • ddifonzoddifonzo Member Posts: 2
    I bought my Lib CRD new in 2006. I was looking for an alt fuel vehicle, hybrid, etc when I stumbled upon a dealer ad for the CRD. I didnt know Jeep made a diesel vehicle and had never owned a Jeep product before. When I inquired about it the dealer didnt have one in stock but located on in Maryland for me. At the time Chrysler was offering a ton of discounts and I got my CRD Limited for 21k.

    I cant stress how much I love this little SUV. I have owned many vehicles, mostly Ford, and this thing is awesome. The low end torque of the CRD is great for passing on the NJ Turnpike, handles wet and snow covered roads well. It doesnt feel like a tank like my wifes Explorer does. I average 20mpg, which could be improved upon.

    I havent done any customization yet but planning to in the near future especially now that my NJ inspection is about to run out.

    I have been plagued with CEL's mostly to the EGR 5 of them now and did suffer from getting oil in the intake. CEL would come on about 5 miles after leaving the dealership. My extended 100k warranty covered the repairs less $100 deduct.

    One big problem I have is, I am continuously putting on new tires due to wear. I dont spin the tires and try to keep the alignment in check but the tires just wear and wear.

    Other issue I have is the Chrysler Jeep dealers near me do not have any qualified shop techs to work on the italian CRD. I get refered to Dodge dealers with diesel techs, but they also dont now much out the CRD since its not an american powerplant.

    I have found a local VW guy that wants to take my maintenance repairs and feel comfortable with the CRD since he has alot of TDI experience. But I have to wait for the warranty to run out since he cant bill Chrysler.

    Bottom line, 8.5 out of 10. I hope I can keep my Lib CRD forever or atleast pass it along to my son in 4 years or find another low mileage CRD for him.
  • offthegrideroffthegrider Member Posts: 11
    Hey Uncle Bob, thanks for the post. Problems have seized since my original post and I am at 83k. Just found a diesel only mechanic 3 hrs south. What are the things that you changed on your crd? Thanks, gridder
  • biodieselmanbiodieselman Member Posts: 41
    Sorry to learn you had so many problems.

    It sounds to me as if the dealer mechanic was learning on yours from the book as he worked on it.

    I was so fortunate as to have a five star dealer intent on keeping on top of everything. He sent his Cummins mechanic to dealer training as soon as the CRD showed up on the radar. The guy was sharp, no problems after his work.

    Under warranty we had the problem with the torque converter which required the trans to be disassembled for a thorough cleaning. Particles from the damaged torque converter had gotten in there and made a mess. So I got a free trans tune up at about 24K.

    The EGR got replaced at about 13K when it started running erratic. I must have gotten the good one as it still has not needed service and now has 104K. Nothing else has gone wrong. Nothing.

    I replace the fuel filter about every 15K just to be safe and always use a fuel treatment like Howes. That prevents junk from forming and causing problems. I live in So. WI so the weather here bounces back and forth something fierce. We are bound to have water in our fuel so I use the Howes faithfully. Another good one I see bragged on is Stanadyne.

    Another factor that might be helping me keep the fuel clean is Biodiesel. I get it every time I am in the right place. Near me is a shop that has 20%. Between that and the Howes I have never had a fuel related problem.

    I know from reading that biodiesel used in an older unit can plug the filter as it is cleaning residue from the fuel system. That IS a good thing unless you get stranded by a clogged fuel filter. One guy wrote he had to change his filter four times before it finally cleaned all the junk from his ten year old Dodge Cummins. Imagine, all that build up over the years.

    My Libby loves the biofuel. If I have to run a full tank of dino diesel and then fill it with 20% biodiesel, it only takes a few miles down the road before the engine gets a lot quieter. Amazing to say the least.

    I like to know the bio is lubing all the critical parts under that hood. The sulfur used to do that but now they are required to have ultra low sulfur at the pump so something has to replace the lubricant.

    There is alga biofuel on the horizon if Valcent Industries can get enough investors interested in a new project. Check it out at you tube. Valcent alga. Very promising.
  • cmisenheimercmisenheimer Member Posts: 4
    Well I bought my 05 CRD new and while I had some warranty work I've never had it leave me stranded nor has there been any extra repair. I am looking the the forum again because when I checked my rear pads I noticed the axle seal leaking some. That will cost a few bucks because I think the axle has to come out. I get 18 mpg pulling my bassboat, about 20-22 in town and 28 - 30 on the road. I hit 31 once with a tail wind. I would like to fine a new engine some where just as a spare when this one gives up the ghost.
  • biodieselmanbiodieselman Member Posts: 41
    I'm glad you like your Libby CRD. Maybe looking for a spare engine is a good idea. You could get the spare rebuilt and have it ready if and when the original needs work.

    But don't knock yourself out. With regular oil changes and synthetic oil, that little dynamo four cylinder should easily go 300K before needing any machine work.

    It's not like gasoline engines that wash down the oil in the cylinders. The diesel is more of a lubricant than an irritant.

    Best of luck to you.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    In order of importance:
    Provent,; $160
    In tank fuel pump & sending unit; $25 on Ebay, out of a 2005 dodge diesel pick-up.
    AFE, dry, high flow air filter; $40
    GRD (green diesel) eco tune: $400
    Transgo transmission shift kit; $35
    Sedimentator, pre-fuel filter water/debris remover (not really necessary) came across it on EBAY and it seemed kinda neat, extends the life of the fuel filter and does not have a cartridge.
    I am getting 24mpg in town, 27 to 30 freeway actual. My overhead consul tells me I am getting 4 MPG more than that, no-ones seems to be accurate.
  • cmisenheimercmisenheimer Member Posts: 4
    Found a good mechanic here in Kyle TX and had both rear axle seals replaced for $200. Still happy after buying new in 05.
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