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Ford Expedition Electrical Problems

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    kd4kmzkd4kmz Member Posts: 19
    OK to all, I have finally pulled my dash completely apart and the problem went away temporarily and when I put it back to gether it came back. it is either the connector housing in the instrument display or it is the instrument display all together. No more banging the dash, I just left the two screws out that lock in the dash face plate and when the radio is not on or the windows don't go down, I just push in on the instrument panel and everything comes back on. I pulled the instrument panel part looks like some of the flat leadss are warped out a bit and apparently with the severe heet or humidity makes it worse and they must be spreading just enough to loose connectivity, I just push in on the display and everythingtarts working, now to find out the cost of a replacement
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    kjungirl007kjungirl007 Member Posts: 4
    ok here goes. I have had all of the above problems, cranking in park, radio goes off and on ,sunroof stuck on stupid, so we changed the battery , starter, etc. Took it to my mechanic,thank god his wife had similar problems!!! He advised me that my winshield was leaking!!! Imagine that!!! The water leaks from the upper corners down the rubber seal onto the computer located on the passenger side(way under the dash). Went down to napa and my husband sealed the windshield"> with windshield sealant.I have never had the problem again!!! Even the slightest humidity will do this to the computer. I even went to Ford and they couldnt find the problem. Hope this helps everyone in this thread....
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    kjungirl007kjungirl007 Member Posts: 4
    The winshiled is leaking!!!!!! Humidity is leaking onto the computer!!!! Seal the windshield, good Luck, it worked for me!!!! I was ready to launch mine in the bayou,until i finally got answers from my mechanic(not Ford)......
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    kjungirl007kjungirl007 Member Posts: 4
    Electrical Problems/Possesed Expedition,lights flashing, radio turns off and on,cranking while in park,sunroof stuck on stupid??????????

    Seal the Front Windshield!!!!!
    Good Luck Everyone,
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    alwaysfords2alwaysfords2 Member Posts: 339
    Enough already, we get the point.
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    tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Enough already, we get the point.

    Yes, but can you offer solutions? :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
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    alwaysfords2alwaysfords2 Member Posts: 339
    She made the same point and offered the same solution three times in a row. Of course it took her about 25 minutes to send the basically the same message. We get it, the problem and the solution.
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    nrmatthnrmatth Member Posts: 2
    Our windshield wipers on our 2000 EB EXP come on sometimes at startup and you have to turn of the truck to restart. Also if you put them on, they will stay on until you restart the car. Back passenger window won't work, sunroof stopped working halfway, cd player won't eject sometimes, ABS light always on and 1st cyl misfire where spark plugs have oil in them. Anyone know how to help with any of these? The spark plugs especially. We have oil in 3 spark plugs and get a bad misfire. Is it coils, tubes? We've already changed plugs. :confuse:
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    kd4kmzkd4kmz Member Posts: 19
    ">To all who have put up with my many emails, getting laid off gave me the time to interrogate my electrical issues that are now resolved

    Problem 1 - Rear Air would not exchange to the upper head

    Resolve - Replaced the Cog set in the actuator, little White box inside rear passenger fender well accessed by removing utility holder and cup holder from back plastic area, you have to have really small hands, I had the cogs if you have to buy the unit you are looking at around 50 with tax

    Problem 2 - Radio would go out and at same time windows would not work

    Resolve - Remove the instrument cluster panel remove disassemble to get to the aluminum looking feeler clips that provide electrical contact for your gauges, once removed just pinch them together to ensure they will give a tight fit when the boards are pressed back together. The problem occurs when one gets a little loose or does not have a good contact as the primary voltage flows through this board left to Right that feeds the radio and the windows

    Problem 3 - rear popping in the passenger side

    Resolve like problem 1 it is the same there are two actuators in the rear panel, one exchanges the heat and cold and the upper is for the lower and upper air , 99% of the time the cogs are chewed up and you will need a new actuator $50 for part, if you do it yourself

    Just to note, I have not experienced any of the water issues in the 2003 or has any of my friends the ones reported are all 2002 and older. Sorry for any confusion in any of my previous post, the above are the resolve to my problems I had.

    I do have two other problems if anyone has the answers as I haven't trouble shot
    1. pedal forward reverse control seems to not work all the way now
    2. grinding and not full engagement of AWD when selected

    I hope this info helps someone God Bless Ron
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    gixxer03gixxer03 Member Posts: 1
    have 2003 eddie bauer expedition. The seats are in the fold position, can not get the seats to go up or down from any of the switches. checked out the 30 amp fuses and they both checked good. Has any body experienced this, are there any relays that control the seats
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    nannypoonannypoo Member Posts: 1
    My 2003 Expedition has been taking a couple tries to start each time; she drives great though once started. This began about a week ago. Now when it gets started the radio takes about 10-15 seconds to come on. Battery was checked, alternator is good. I had a tune up about 6 months ago. Not sure what it could be, maybe electrical? Fuel pump? Any ideas are greatly appreciated. Thank you.
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    nautilisxnautilisx Member Posts: 1
    I have had very similiar, but not exactly the same problems with my 02 Eddie Bauer Expedition. Ours started probably about a year ago with JUST the power window fuse blowing when you opened the doors or turned the interior lights on. I believe that was due to moisture bc it started after a HEAVY rain and "fixed itself" after awhile, once it dried up. About 4 months after that my wife had just cranked the Exp and ran back inside to grab something and when she came out it had shut off on its own. When she attempted to start it again, it would not start, but just click, as if the battery was completely dead and then it started...lol... She said first the lights flashed....the DVD/VCR player started making noises...she heard a sound like wires shorting...and the truck filled with smoke...she jumped out and to her amazement the truck started cranking itself...SHE had the keys..but it was turning over...and kept turning over.. luckily it didn't feel like starting and actually leaving..lol After a few minutes all was calm, except her. I wasn't there so my father-in-law came over and looked at the truck. LONG story short, he replaced some fuses...got it to the dealership...and they told me about all the problems with the windshields...said they fixed it... I have never seen or felt moisture...We had other problems but my post is already too long...but NOW our interior lights...ALL of them except the dome and map lights...continuously flash when the headlights are on...the dash...radio...all interior lights..and they almost have a pattern to them...slow when I go slow...faster when I go faster...If I turn the headlights off..the radio lights are fine...and dont flash.. So anyone have any ideas on what would solve it??? I was about to go for the fuse box and GEM...and take a look...and look at relays..I figured it was one or the other...but if someone could narrow it down I would appreciate it..
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    whatswrong1whatswrong1 Member Posts: 1
    My Expedition 2001 with Triton 5.4 stared running with a low idle around 500rpm and dies out when I stop CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHATS WRONG

    Thanks
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    alwaysfords2alwaysfords2 Member Posts: 339
    I'd start with the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve.
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    laurel17laurel17 Member Posts: 2
    Hey Ken, I was wondering if you ever found out the problem. We are having similar problems with our Expedition. It seems to have Gremlins. We've looked for leaks and don't see anything. Thanks! Laurel
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    laurel17laurel17 Member Posts: 2
    :confuse: Hello! We just bought a 2000 Expy dirt cheap. The tranny didn't work. We were able to get a tranny and my husband and son installed it themselves so they are capable of working on cars.

    The Expy drives good but there seems to be a bunch of gremlins in it. Everything going on is mentioned in this forum but few if any have any solutions so here goes..anyone have any help on the following?

    1) Windshield wipers do not work. Husband hotwired to the motors and they work, have checked fuses and wondering if the problem is in the multi function switch. Both rear and front do not work BUT the sprayers work.

    2) When I turn it off the fan motor for the a/c comes on full blast. It will not turn off unless I click the dome lights on and off... really!

    4) The odometer comes on and goes off. Hubby is going to try the soldiering sometime this week but I'm wondering if with the multiple of problems they could be related to one another.

    5) Gas guage sometimes works and sometimes does not. It does not come on and off with the odometer. It has a mind of its own.

    For $600 on the Expy and $200 on the transmission I'm more than happy with it so far. Given my hub and son's aptitude for fixing things themselves I'd rather try some things on our own before going to a shop. We already replaced all of the fuses! Any other ideas?

    Thanks ahead of time.
    Laurel :confuse:
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    airconmanairconman Member Posts: 14
    The instrument cluster on my 97 Exp needs replacing. Gauges (Oil, eng temp, Battery) have all gone haywire. This was a result of an alternator going out. Ford wants $1200 to replace the cluster. I found a cluster on the net for $130, but I have no idea how complicated it is to do the replacement. Has anyone done a replacement before and can tell me how involved it is and what to expect? Thanks
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    disvnvetdisvnvet Member Posts: 4
    Replaced the alternator a few days ago.

    Yesterday the check engine light came on and idle went to crap.

    Ran OBD11 tests and have #4 MissFire.

    Cleaned Coil Ignitors and check wires.

    Can the MissFire be related to Alternator?

    If not, what is the probable cause?
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    dlagriminidlagrimini Member Posts: 2
    I have a 06 Expedition that I replaced the alternator on but I still continued to have the check engine lilght come. The dealer ran a diagnostic check and said their was a problem with the alternator. They also said that the computer has to be reset after replacing the alternator. They wanted to replace the alternator but I had them recalibrate the comptuter and the problem went away.
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    disvnvetdisvnvet Member Posts: 4
    Interesting!! In this case however, the check engine light came on two days after the alternator was replaced.

    I will be troubleshooting tomorrow. In my research I did find an interesting fact. To rule out the coil ignitor, I can swap the positions. If the miss-fire swaps then it indicated the coil ignitor.
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    jerome29jerome29 Member Posts: 2
    I recently changed my heater core on my 00 ford expedition xlt. after the dash was reinstalled and everything hooked up my truck wouldnt start. when I turn the ignition to start the interior lights flash off and nothing happens. there is a 10 amp fuse in the fuse dist box under the hood that keeps blowing when I change it. Im not sure where to look for the problem if its a shorted wire or something in the fuel ckt that needs to be reset or something. PLEASE HELP
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    wmvickerswmvickers Member Posts: 1
    My wife has a 05 Expedition. Occasionally it will not start during or after it rains. I have to jump the vehicle off and it cranks with no problem. The vehicle has exhibited this problem after being parked in the open and under the carport. I may have to jump it off in the morning and it then it cranks fine for weeks. On other occasions the vehicle cranks and she parks it at a store comes back out and it fails to crank. The only constant seems to be rain or high humidity. The battery tests good and no other electrical issues are noted. Has anyone had a similar situation and what was the fix.
    Thanks!
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    jaxyjenjaxyjen Member Posts: 6
    i have a 2004 Expedition - same problems *posted to site over a year ago* Dealer ran through over $2400.00 replaced alt, battry, gems - still not fixed. I quit taking it to dealer. As long as I roll the interior light dial to off - no more problems. Please post if you figure this one out!! Thanks
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    jaxyjenjaxyjen Member Posts: 6
    I see many of the same issues and no too seem to have the same resolution....Has anyone tired a "superchip"? I know these are for reprogramming and getting better horsepower/gas mileage - but will it "re-align" electric programming too??
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    kd4kmzkd4kmz Member Posts: 19
    what exactly is your problem, I can't find your previous post kd4kmz
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    kd4kmzkd4kmz Member Posts: 19
    I am sorry, that is all you can say FORD OK bloggers lets try to make an update
    1997-2002 Water In Gem
    2003-2006 Running Board, Door Actuators, AC Actuators, Instrument Panel Issues
    2007-2009 Fuel system and latches
    All previous built in Michigan
    NHTSA Item Number: 637462
    Service Bulletin #: 15770
    Replacement #:
    Vehicle/Equipment Make: FORD
    Vehicle/Eqipment Model: EXPEDITION
    Model Year: n/a
    Mfg Component Code: 110000 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
    Date of Bulletin: 2002-04-01
    Date Added: 2002-11-26
    Summary: SOME 1997 THROUGH 2002 VEHICLES MAY EXHIBIT VARIOUS UNUSUAL ELECTRICAL CONDITIONS, SUCH AS FRONT OR REAR BLOWER OR EATC STAYING ON WITH KEY OUT OF THE IGNITION, RADIO STAYING ON AFTER DOORS OPENED AND KEY OUT OF IGNITION, WIPER CIRCUIT FAIL

    NHTSA Item Number: 50483
    Service Bulletin #: BC5207961001
    Replacement #:
    Vehicle/Equipment Make: FORD
    Vehicle/Eqipment Model: EXPEDITION
    Model Year: n/a
    Mfg Component Code: 110000 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
    Date of Bulletin: 1996-10-01
    Date Added: 1997-04-24
    Summary: INFORMATION FOR SERVICING THE ELECTRONIC/HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT (EHCU) ON 4WABS. *TT
    goto http://www.allworldauto.com/recalls/ford_expedition_recalls_12-2044-1.html
    to look up all recalls and Bulletins, many ford dealerships or sites will tell you none but as you can see there are several
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    bholbrookbholbrook Member Posts: 5
    ok all its been awhile but we were having problems with the battery draining. we had replaced the battery, ran tests on the new battery and the alternator and it would be drained in less than an hour. Well we brought it to the dealer and they charged is $535 to tell us the the rear wiper was froze up (we never used it) so they disconnected it. We have not had any problems since! :)
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    swdallasswdallas Member Posts: 1
    I have the same prob with a 98 F 150. On cold mornings, the battery doesn't charge. Gradually, the dash lights, instruments, radio, and fan all go dead as the battery drains. As it slowly warms up, with the barely blowing fan, I can hear a click inside the dash, and then everything comes back on. I have been using a hair dryer or a heat gun to try and help send heat into the dash. I am sure it is a relay that doesn't make contact until it warms up, but no one seems to know about any relay like this. I really need an explanation on this one.
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    jaime7jaime7 Member Posts: 1
    Hey, Im new here looking for a solution to this issue thats been haunting me for a couple of years already and the dealer says they cant find a thing wrong?

    Well I know its electrical. Not all he time but some days when I get home and turn off my care, a couple of hours later get back in and my gauges are all up and the care wont start. Take the key out gauges still up close the door couple of hours later batterie is dead. Crazy I know! Now the funny thing is, I notice that it only happens in the "winter" and kinda when I use my windshield wipers....so thats what im here about, if anyone can help or has had the same issue.

    thanks
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    kjungirl007kjungirl007 Member Posts: 4
    The windshield is leaking. Humidity/water is leaking onto the computer!!!! Seal the windshield, good Luck, it worked for me!!!! I was ready to launch mine in the bayou,until i finally got answers from my mechanic(not Ford)
    I also have an 01. My expedition would stay running when the keys were'nt in it.Lights blinking off and on. horn was blowing,lol. :mad: It got to the point of funny!!!! My sunroof was stuck on stupid.
    My mechanic told me his wifes' did the same thing. He told me to seal the windshield. Went down to Napa, and bought a tube of windshield gasket sealant. Applied around the corners,WALA, it never happened again. I can even use the drivethru carwash again!!!YEA!!!!! Good Luck!!! Ford wont help. This should.
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    alwaysfords2alwaysfords2 Member Posts: 339
    Sounds like a bad alternator or voltage regulator. Fix is the same, replace the alternator.
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    vantraxelvantraxel Member Posts: 1
    edited February 2010
    Ok I bought a 2006 exp at auction and it had no side marker socket on passenger side so I put in one from napa ,

    Here is my ? I didn't check headlights before but both Headlights on passenger side are way dimmer than drivers side and when i turn them to brights the passenger side that should go bright goes dark? I thought it was bulbs so I put 2 new bulbs in a 9005 and a 9006 and it is still the same?
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    barluc99barluc99 Member Posts: 4
    I replaced my gem out of a similar equiped exp for 100 and paid safelite approx 200 to install a new windshield and seal. Its a pain to get the module out but otherwise simple fix.
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    charlee2charlee2 Member Posts: 3
    help my turn lights dont work any idea what the problem is?
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    bholbrookbholbrook Member Posts: 5
    have you checked the bulb and the fuse?
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    charlee2charlee2 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks but this thing is been fix.
    the flasher was out and olso the fuse box, some how there was a short in the fuse box
    i replace this two things and it is working ok now.
    Thank you any ways.
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    mountainman_4mountainman_4 Member Posts: 7
    This is one of the simple Expedition Gremlins to address: Replace the TPS switch. I have a 2001 with 4.6L, and the TPS started failing, which led to sometimes, surges, stuttering, other times just straight up-dying. No codes, no one could guess it...replace the TPS, and all should be well. Keep a small metric 1/4" socket set in the glovebox with a spare TPS...in 20-months, you will need it again.

    This is just like keeping spare fuses and coils there also...because Ford Expeditions eat them all, like a fat guy on popcorn at the movie house. I bet I have put $1000 in coils into my Expedition in 5-years worth of time...not to mention the Bosch super platinum plugs, at $6 each.
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    mountainman_4mountainman_4 Member Posts: 7
    Ok...I have a new problem and no one seems to guess this one yet. I have fought this truck for years...so trust me on the fact that the battery, charging system, fusing system are all ok on this. Also, fuel pump relay is ok and set.

    My Expedition (2001 with 4.6L) just got $80 in gas at the store...I am one mile down the road, and the speedometer and tachometer, simultaneously go to full peg, twice. Engine did not stutter or miss a beat, nor did the RPMs go up. Then, it died. period. Almost as if a TPS failed...except after cooling down, the truck still won't hit. Fast turn over, 13.2 volts on battery, full premium fuel (which was already over a quarter full before fill-up). Good gas...clean filter on truck. Oh, yeah, and the "THEFT" dash icon is flashing fast. So...after $240 for the tow-bill home, I get the wife to try her key (thinking it is the chip dead in my key) and nope...no luck...still won't start.

    Any ideas of what else could have failed on this POS? I am now in the market for a late 1970's 4x4 truck...one that a pet chimp can troubleshoot...I have had it with this BS...where it takes a 1000 person committee to analyze why my vehicle turned off...or $1000 for a dealer to provide me with a $50 part. Thanks Ford...I am DONE.

    Ideas to help me get this junk rolling again (for purpose of sale) are greatly appreciated.
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    alwaysfords2alwaysfords2 Member Posts: 339
    $1000 in coils? You can buy an 8 pack on ebay for $90.
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    mountainman_4mountainman_4 Member Posts: 7
    Haven't seen decent coils for less than $57 a piece, and those are "Standard" brand...OEM are near $100 each.

    Right now...I don't need coils...I need to figure out how to reset this damn PATS so that "theft" quits flashing, and I can start the junker.

    The THEFT light is flashing a "61" code (thats a new one to me) and the PATS reset process (15 min key-on, then off, and repeat 3-times) didn't work...going to power-down next. Seems that no-one has encountered this failure while driving down the road...to where neither key works, and the reset didn't either...guess I'll tear the column cover down and see if there is something with the transponder...

    Damn, I hate this truck for the technical issues. I hope Ford was in bed good with the insurance market...because I will never buy another Ford as long as I live, because of this PATS issue...there is no reason to make such fragile technical issues into vehicles, and then shaft your customer with $1000 service calls once a year. I'll just buy an old 1970's vehicle and dump money into it...at least it will run then...squeaks and all.
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    mountainman_4mountainman_4 Member Posts: 7
    Ok...update, the code that is UDP flashing is "16", and means 'failure of Transponder to communicate with the PCM, or SKF network error...or some crap like that. Every fragment i can find on this on the internet, says that the keys have lost code, or that the transponder (transceiver in key cylinder) is dead, or that the GEM is bad. Ok..great...except, if I disconnect the battery, turn the ignition to on, drain all circuits of power, wait a few minutes, then turn it all off and reconnect the battery - hey...no PATS "THEFT" light BS...and turn the key to it starting right up. Now, it will run...good...for 2-3 minutes, then it stutters, turns off, and THEFT flashes again.

    Anyone have any idea how complex it is to pull the PCM out of the dash? I am thinking that a blow dryer on it to dry it out, and it will be fine...it is snowy and humid outside, and this all started on a bad snowstorm day...so, I am thinking that some in this post are kinda on the right track...that the PCM has been dampened by humidity or rain...and is acting squirreley...I just don't have the $1000 to play with the dealer on this truck right now!!!

    Thanks.
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    shrek57shrek57 Member Posts: 1
    i hv a 99 expedition and i had the same problems u did. i went from thinking it was the fuel pump to the alternator to thinking it was the tow hitch cables. u name it i thought it messed up my car. after 4 mechanics that wanted to rip me off i found a guy that told me he would take the instrument cluster and resauter 7 cables that go connected to the cluster. he said he would charge me $160 and i figured nothing else had worked so what is $160 to fix my problem. 3 days later sure enough its been a year and knock on wood it hasnt had a problem. i live in miami so if u live near by i can give u his #.
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    tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    i can give u his #

    Please don't post telephone numbers in the Forums.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
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    mountainman_4mountainman_4 Member Posts: 7
    Hey...thanks for your post, because you confirmed what I found on only one other post, and that is that final absolute resolution to this whole problem isn't the PCM, EEC, or the Transceiver in the key/column, but in that damn short in the cluster. Ford had a tech bulletin out on it a year after the vehicle was made.

    Funny...it had been snowing here for 3-days, right at 32-deg., 'snow-snot' all in the floorboard, snow fog all over, nasty weather...probably had 3-inches of snow up against the windshield by the air intake screen around the wipers...flat broke for the time, I pulled the battery and the PCM plug...hmmm...moisture. Ok...I pulled the PCM...and the inside of the cover seemed to be moist/damp. So, little low-temp blow-dryer, lot of WD-40 on the plug and the recepticle at the PCM...put it all back together, fire it right up...wham...no problem...then, 10-minutes later, it died. So, with no hesitation, I went to the store and bought 2-bottles of ISO-Heat (Isopropyl dryer for fuel) and put them in the tank...started it up...AGAIN...and kept foot to the pedal at 2,000-RPM for 10-minutes (it wouldn't die then)...and you could feel the engine begin to smooth out some...and it has worked perfectly since.

    By the way...the odometer on mine intermittently goes off and on while going down the road...DUE TO THE WIRE-SHORT in the instrument cluster that I am going to solder when weather warms up, now...should fix it all.

    FYI...THIS SHOULD BE THE FIRST DIAGNOSTIC DONE ON THIS SPECIFIC ISSUE...I hunted the internet for 3-days, saw a thousand posts IDENTICAL TO MINE, and no one ever printed a resolution...though it seems LOTS OF PCMs got sold as an attempted fix.

    Guys, I am telling you...try this first...this worked better than dropping a locker into a 9-inch rear, to get better traction!!!
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    mountainman_4mountainman_4 Member Posts: 7
    Ok...I got it fixed, drove it...ran great. Then, drove it during a heavy rainstorm about 60-miles away from home, and it DIED! Cost $240 to have it towed back...sat for 4-days, disconnected the battery, reconnected the battery...and on a beautiful sunny day, took it for a drive...ran great! Ok...drove it around for a few days...ran WONDERFUL. Next time I needed to make the same 60-mile trip, again it was raining...same deal, but $280 tow bill this time!!!

    Got it home, dried it out, again...drove great about 3-days later...put maybe 500-miles on it...ran great...not one miss. Went out this morning, raining like a dog...started it. It ran for MAYBE 10-seconds, and DIED. Won't start, PATS is flashing again...and I am sure that when the rain stops, and all is dry, it will run PERFECT AGAIN.

    HELP SOMEONE!!! What is getting wet, or humid, that even sitting still in the driveway, just starting it causes this?!?!?!
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    thickchickthickchick Member Posts: 1
    I'm trying to help as many folks as I can. I thought it was the windshield that was leaking ... MAYBE! We had the windshield replaced the day after a hard rain (we had a "starburst that eventually lead to a long crack"); hubby tried to find any possible leaks ... but we didn't see anything wet, when the windshield was pulled off (the seals appeared dry :) ).

    Our windshield tech told us that the "groove" on the top of the truck (where the luggage rack is), is notorious for causing LEAKS. In other words, where the "luggage rack" is attached ... big hole ... it is HOLLOW right there.

    So we lucked out ... we were able to follow where the water was getting in and we sealed all the HOLES accordingly.

    Since a new windshield was installed, we had a "good seal" there (#1 culprit @ times).

    We took the luggage rack off and basically made a "gasket" before putting it back on! (when you take it off, you will see what I mean).

    We also sealed the hole(s) where the inside, assist handle is located. (the handle in the upper, left corner).

    Hopefully, this helps someone else. Not exactly SURE which method worked (I believe it was the LUGGAGE RACK HOLES), but we no longer have that problem when it rains anymore.

    (** note - we had the battery replaced and a new alternator, before figuring this out .... sheesh )
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    chammonschammons Member Posts: 1
    Ok so I have had this truck for almost three years now and the both front windows wont go up or down. I was just wondering if anyone else was having this problem? They say there is no recall on this but I just don't see how they could just go out with out there being some era on their part. :confuse:
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    kd4kmzkd4kmz Member Posts: 19
    Does your radio work or not when the windows don't work?
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    wroewroe Member Posts: 1
    did you find out what was the cause of your troubles. Every time I go to car wash it dont run right.
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    bknesalbknesal Member Posts: 1
    I know exactly what the problem is. You need to have your window taken out and resealed. There was a factory prob. that lets rain in. It drips to the ele. box and fries everything. When it dries the prob is gone. I did mine and I havent had a problem since. It happens in the 1998-2002 models.
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