Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Ford Expedition Electrical Problems

1246

Comments

  • littlekuntrylittlekuntry Member Posts: 1
    I am having a problem with my tail lights not working but all other light functions are working also tag lights not working. And the instrument panel lights and some of the radio lights are not working it all started at the same exact time I bought a gem mod and changed it out but nothing changed I was told by a dealer that it did not have to be revamped can someone please help me thanks little kuntry :lemon:
  • daustin342003daustin342003 Member Posts: 2
    my 97 exp while driving using electrical controls (ie windows a/c front or rear)
    vehicle stalls or sometimes dies the dash gauges fluctuate wildly ( ie temp from low to high gas full to empty) change battery a week ago cause had to keep jumping it off
    any ideas
  • phil101phil101 Member Posts: 1
    My 2000 Expo keeps blowing the #13 fuse as soon as I put it in. I checked all the bulbs and I did find that the brake lights on the hatch were in really bad shape. I did put new sockets and bulbs, but it did not help. Now I am about to change the brake switch and hope it will fix my problem. The #13 fuse is for my brake, signals and hazard lights. The cruise control is also on this fuse. I recently had the dealer change out the cruise control recall switch thinking maybe that was the problem too. That didn't help. The only other thing wrong is the odometer reading comes and goes every now and then. Oh I forgot to mention that I did change the multifunction switch too. Question- I did find that that two of the wires that plug into the mutifunction switch were not locked in to the socket or plug that goes into the mutifunctin switch, would that cause a short blowing that fuse?
  • aleciajohnaleciajohn Member Posts: 1
    The backup sensor quit working a long time ago. I would turn it on and it turns back off. Every so often, it works but it is rare. The radio controls on the steering wheel will turn the volume up when I click on the volume down button or it will change stations. Now, the heat and cool functions on my seats are not working. I click on the button, it lights up and then the lights go off. The seat never heats or cools.
    Ideas? I just paid it off. I was hoping to go a year or two before I had to put much money into it.
  • alwaysfords2alwaysfords2 Member Posts: 339
    Back up sensors are probably a wire shorting somewhere, one place to look is where the wiring harness goes into the driver side tail light. I spent a lot of time diagnosing a similar problem that the dealer found in 5 minutes. The seat issue is most likely the blower. I have had one replaced by the dealer for around $400, they take the seat out for it. I have recently done a replacement cushion and tilit motor on my driver seat and going forward would tackle a blower myself from above.
  • tajitaji Member Posts: 1
    We purchased a 2010 Expedition w/200 miles on it 12 Oct 10. It has physically been out our house 4 days; the rest of the time at the dealer because of numerous electrical problems. Our dealers response to us, when it was taken there the fourth time on Monday, is for us to get a lawyer. We have attempted to work w/Ford directly and they are not much help either. I am so sorry we made this extremely expensive purchase and will be meeting w/a lawyer tomorrow to find out how to get our money back. :lemon:
  • alwaysfords2alwaysfords2 Member Posts: 339
    You dont need a lawyer to use the lemon law, it is designed for an individual to use it. Look it up in your state and fill out the paperwork,. Cake.
  • fordcustsrvcfordcustsrvc Member Posts: 27
    “We purchased a 2010 Expedition w/200 miles on it 12 Oct 10. It has physically been out our house 4 days; the rest of the time at the dealer because of numerous electrical problems. Our dealers response to us, when it was taken there the fourth time on Monday, is for us to get a lawyer. We have attempted to work w/Ford directly and they are not much help either. I am so sorry we made this extremely expensive purchase and will be meeting w/a lawyer tomorrow to find out how to get our money back.”

    Hi Taji,

    My name is Joanne with the Ford Customer Relationship Center. I am sorry to hear of the circumstances that have prompted your post. We would be happy to take another look at the situation, please feel free to call the Customer Relationship Center at 800-392-3673 at your convenience. We are unfortunately unable to address your concern on a public forum.

    Kind regards,

    Joanne
    Ford Customer Service Division
  • alwaysfords2alwaysfords2 Member Posts: 339
    Sweet. Unfortunately if this person is like most of the posters here, they are "one and done". They come by to gripe and never come back. They joined Nov 3, posted once and that was it. Very nice to think that customer care would monitor forums.
  • archlarchl Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2003 expedition that needs jumped every time I try to start it. I replaced the battery and the alternator has been checked and is working properly. Are there any other known electrical draws known for this model?
  • alwaysfords2alwaysfords2 Member Posts: 339
    How often do you start it? If the alternator is in fact working properly, to kill a new battery there would have to be a pretty big drain somewhere or it is sitting for a long long time.
  • archlarchl Member Posts: 4
    I can jump it and drive it one day and then it won't start the next without jumping it again. How long should I have to drive it to get a full charge so it should start again? When I do a system check on it when it is running is says the charging system is ok.
  • alwaysfords2alwaysfords2 Member Posts: 339
    If it is dead then you'd need to drive it a long time to get it fully charged. I'd guess you either have a battery that is no good or an alternator that isn't charging it. Or maybe the problem isn't the alternator or battery, but delivery of the charge? One thing to check would be all the terminals on the battery and alternator - are all the connections good and clean? Also the more the battery goes dead the more you reduce it's life. Do you have a battery charger you can put on it? A nice 10 or 12 hour trickle charge will at least get it charged back up and you can restart looking at the options.
  • bholbrookbholbrook Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2003. I had a problem close to your and we found out it was the rear wiper motor was drawing the battery even when the key was out. I was told the the assembly froze up. Good luck :)
  • archlarchl Member Posts: 4
    Thanks very much. My rear wiper gets stuck straight up when I try to use it and then I have to manually push it back down into place when I get home. I assumed the same thing that once the key was off it would stop working. My battery issues started at the same time. Was it an easy fix that you can do yourself or did you have to take it to the dealership?
  • alwaysfords2alwaysfords2 Member Posts: 339
    Pull the fuse to test the theory.
  • archlarchl Member Posts: 4
    Thank you for your help. It was the rear windshield wiper. We disconnected the power from it and now it starts every time.
  • rjmccrayrjmccray Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer 4 X 4 that is having serious electrical problems. I'll try to be concise, yet descriptive in the issues it is having and would appreciate any feedback.
    Problems started about 6 months ago with a dead battery. Battery was replaced. I'm not sure the timing of the problems but know it wasn't immediately after replacing the battery but it started with the auto lights not working. The "lights on" warning sound also stopped working. Soon after that the radio quit working, the windows would not go down and the keyless remote stopped working. The interior lights also quit working automatically. since then, the keyless remote now works however the rest of the problems remain.
    To make things even more interesting my wife has left the lights on mistakenly a number of times since and has had to jump start the vehicle. Sometimes when she does this it sets off the security alarm.
    I hope someone can tell me this is a minor problem, but I'm guessing its not. I'm planning to take to dealership but can't really afford a $500+ repair.
    Please help!
  • daustin342003daustin342003 Member Posts: 2
    i was having electrical issues replaced battery etc.. try replacing battery cables the get really corroded after i did this everything started working again and its cheaper 500.00 but get the cables from auto parts store not the dealer cause the dealer's cables are outrageously priced
  • matthewd4matthewd4 Member Posts: 1
    My MIL has a 2005 ford expedition. Her brake lights have gone out and its not the bulbs. She took it to the dealership and was told that someone changed her fuses on her fuse box. There were 30s put in instead of 15s. She was told that that blew the circuit board or the wires or something. They want 800+ dollars to fix or replace the board. This is a bit much and I was looking for a real answer to the problem.
  • alwaysfords2alwaysfords2 Member Posts: 339
    The real answer is to not let people who don't know what thee are doing work on your car. The circuit is designed for 15 amps, and they basically ignored the fact that the fuses blew and over fused the circuit. Good luck figuring out what really happened now that everything is toast. Did you try going back to 15's to see if by some wild chance things may work?
  • judgenycjudgenyc Member Posts: 2
    I HAVE A 2004 EXPEDITION AND I HAVE RECENTLY NOTICED A TICKING SOUND UNDER A PANEL NEXT TO THE BACK ROW SEATING RIGHT SIDE IT WOULD CLICK AS IF SOMETHING WAS TURNING BUT HAD A PIECE BROKEN OFF. THEN I NOTICE SOUNDS UNDER THE GLOVE COMPARTMENT THEN MY BATTERY DIED ON ME. I HAD IT REPLACED AND WITHIN 30 THE NEW BATTERY WAS DEAD, WHAT COULD BE THE CAUSE???????????????????????????????
    HELP!!!!
  • alwaysfords2alwaysfords2 Member Posts: 339
    The ticking in the back is probably a blend door actuator. What's killing the battery is another story....
  • kd4kmzkd4kmz Member Posts: 19
    Review some of my latest post for some answers, the clicking in the right is your relays in the fuse box, determine which relay is clicking is first step to determine what is killing battery, the, lat poster was correct about the rear you have a bad atuator either the one that exchanged the hot cold air to the back or the one that adusts the air to the floor or overhead vents. That is 65 dollar pary if you do work yourself 400 if Ford does it. Hope this helps
  • alwaysfords2alwaysfords2 Member Posts: 339
    The rear wiper motor is a common battery killer - does your rear wiper work correctly?
  • licalica Member Posts: 2
    Im not sure if I should be happy to find this message board or pissed off. I have had electrical problems with my 2000 expedition going on 3 years. I had a sunroof that went off track. One day after a pretty heavy storm I found a puddle of water on the driver side. The car ran but noticed it more frequently then the problem started with the car not starting. I though maybe it was had to do with the sun roof so I sealed it. Still I continued to get water and no start on days when it rained. I had the car looked at about a week ago when it didn’t start and they were not able to figure it out. Its been raining here and yesterday as I was out driving the radio went in and out, the wipers on and off. Then when I put it in park the it made this noise as if it was trying to start!!! REALLY. I find this board and im reading everyones issue and I think to myself at least the car is not trying to start on its own without the key in the ignition and low and behold 15min into reading the posts the car starts trying to start!!!!

    Anyway I saw 2 things that came up. Either replacing the windshield or at least checking the seal or looking at the GEM/CJB and having that replaced. So Im wondering if its even worth having this fixed? I would like to keep the car but I don’t want to get stuck on the road somewhere because it still a problem. Is this a permanent fix in your opinion?
  • alwaysfords2alwaysfords2 Member Posts: 339
    First things first, you need to stop the water from coming in. Then you need to evaluate how fried everything is, you may be out of luck if this has been going on for three years. There are only three places water can be getting in from - the sunroof drains, the windshield and a heater core failure. A heater core will leak on the passenger side, so now you are down to 2 places. If you have sealed up the roof, then no need to check the drains. Or you can un seal it, and be able to use it again after checking the drains. A glass shop can check for a windshield leak, or you can do a rough test yourself. Get a bottle of soapy water and either an air line from a compressor or a can of compressed air. Spray the soapy water around the perimeter of the windshield, then go inside with the compressed air. If you see bubbles outside, you have a leak. You may have to lift the black strip surrounding the windshiled a bit.
  • licalica Member Posts: 2
    Well I have had leaks on the passenger side but not down on the floor but the seat. It happen maybe 3 times in the past 3 years so its not as often as it gets wet on the driver side floor. I noticed it wet where the sunroof is and I cant figure out why its wet if its sealed on the outside.

    I will take it in to the mechanic today and let them know what ive learned here and see if they can do anything.
  • tracy23tracy23 Member Posts: 1
    On my 2003 Ford expedition my windows sometimes will not roll up, also I noticed my radio is acting really weird when I try to turn it down with the knob it load ens the radio instead of lowering it also the CD player says error when I try to do anything with it. I use to be able to use my key less entry it would just take a long time for it to unlock I would have to put the code in several times well now it does not work at all. Has anyone ever experienced this and if you have what was the problem?
  • serialdataserialdata Member Posts: 1
    edited December 2010
    I currently have the same problem with the door ajar in the mess center as well as the pentals not functionly properly. What was the fix?
  • alwaysfords2alwaysfords2 Member Posts: 339
    The pedals not moving is a common problem, there is an issue in the linkage in most cases. Check the fuse first just to make sure it isn't something simple. The door ajar message can be fixed in most cases by spraying the latch mechanisms with WD40. You need to douse them and slam the doors a few times. It is easier if you know exactly which one is doing it, but it wont hurt to do them all.
  • judgenycjudgenyc Member Posts: 2
    Well since the recommendation to change the blend door actuator which I did and it took care of the issue, now weeks later no noise but my new battery has gone completely dead after sitting in my driveway for 2 or 3 days. Is there anything else that would be killing my battery??? Could the alternator. I tried to with cable but no luck. I do get head lights when hooked up to charge but the motor won't turn. What could it be?
  • kd4kmzkd4kmz Member Posts: 19
    Autozone will check your alternator for free. Rear winshielf wiper has known to draw battery down if it sticks also a burnt stuck relay if you have had allot of clicking from your fuse box and your door atuator that will trigger on and turn the inside and courtesy lights on, are you sure you got the right one, just other things to look into if your alternator is not the issue
  • bholbrookbholbrook Member Posts: 5
    I was having the same problem, and it was our rear wiper froze up and was draining the battery. I hope that helps.
  • alwaysfords2alwaysfords2 Member Posts: 339
    As soon as I saw your post, and before I read the responses, the rear wiper was my guess. Not sure what else it is fused with, but if it is with a bunch of non critical things you could pull the fuse to test the theory. Or if it is with critical stuff and you are planning on letting it sit for a few days, pull it anyway.
  • dale77dale77 Member Posts: 16
    '98 Expedition, 5.0L, fairly new alternator, new plugs, about half the coils replaced, 160,000 miles and generally runs well.

    My problem seems to have some similarity to what I'm seeing on this board with the exception that the vehicle has not died.....yet. There have been intermitant, short, lived problems as follows:

    1. Battery light goes on and voltage meter maxes out, then returns to normal. This has happened a few times over the past three months.

    2. Battery light goes on and voltage meter flucuates with engine RPM, then returns to normal,

    3. Battery light goes on, then entire console goes dead, with screeching noises coming from speakers and loud relay clicks while engine continus to run smoothly. Returns to normal after a few to 30 seconds.

    4. Console comes back on but then 4X4 indicator light won't go out.

    5. After a night the car starts and runs normally.

    6. Odometer light intermittantly goes out and back on.

    I'm expecting the truck to die unexpectedly unless I can resolve this issue.

    Any suggestions?
  • ednatheexpeednatheexpe Member Posts: 3
    I have a question. were you able to get the window and radio working/fixed because I am suffocating in my truck. Can you tell me what you did? Was it the GEM Modular
  • dale77dale77 Member Posts: 16
    Since my problem is still intermittant, I have not been able to isolate its source. Some of the posts on this web site seem to suggest that there are connection problems in the console. I did not have problems with my window but the problem has been so short-lived, I did not have the opportunity to try the window while the electronics were having their epileptic fit. I still have yet to discover what is wrong. Until something fails permenently, I will have little chance of discovering the source. Sorry I cannot be of further assistance.
  • ednatheexpeednatheexpe Member Posts: 3
    Hi, I was wondering if you were ever able to get your problem fixed with your Expedition. I'm having the same problem. The radio comes on and then it goes off and I can't roll up or down my windows when that happen. I think my truck don't like me and trying to suffocate me. Do you know what caused the problem?
  • dale77dale77 Member Posts: 16
    See my reply #197
  • dale77dale77 Member Posts: 16
    edited January 2011
    '99 Expedition, 5.4L Eddie Bauer
    Electrical problems included: ABS light stays on, odometer light and panel lights go off and on, all instruments malfunction at the same time, entire instrument cluster goes blank. These problems were intermittent and short-lived and the engine continued to run normally.

    I tried the fix at this web site:

    link title

    When I examined my circuit board, I found not one, but THREE bad solders at the connector posts. Having had some experience soldering circuit boards, I knew what to look for.

    Following the instructions at the above link, I also did the following:

    Examine the entire circumference of all nine of the connector posts with a good magnifying glass. Look for black/dark discoloration around the base of the post in the solder. This discoloration is a good indication that the connection is compromised.

    I took a small soldering iron and re-melted the solder on all nine posts and added a tiny (and I mean TINY) amount to the three posts showing discoloration. Be careful not to overheat the connection. Once the solder melts, immediately remove the iron.

    Afterwards, re-examine the posts and make sure there is no black discoloration and that the solders look silvery all over. If you see any black discoloration, re-melt the connection. When you are done soldering, remove any dust/debris left behind including rosin and clean the posts with a solvent (I used dry cleaning fluid). Make sure the solder from one post does not touch another. If it does, you probably added too much solder and you need to remove some.

    After doing this, all of the problems stopped. I need to drive the vehicle a little longer to make sure but, so far, so good. The job took about two hours and was pretty easy.

    If somebody wants to discuss individually, you can contact me through my web site at:

    link title

    and send a message through the "Contact Us" page. I will receive the message directly.
  • dale77dale77 Member Posts: 16
    I seem to have found a fix for the electrical problems I was having. Please see my post #201.
  • gilly47gilly47 Member Posts: 1
    edited February 2011
    Alternator not charging battery(when running)? battery not holding charge. both tested good on the voltmeter. wiring?
  • nomorefords4menomorefords4me Member Posts: 1
    Hello everyone, Im new to this forum and would like to chat about my electrical problems that I think I now have an answer to due to some posts I have read. First off I just purchased a 1999 Expedition EB A4wd with 70k miles. After test driving it and running it around town for a couple of days (all good at this point) I decided to give the new truck a bath. WOW! This thing does not like water! I came home the next day from work to find the A/C Blower motor running and the dash lights blinking so I disconnected the battery. The battery was drained so I charged it back up. The next day I reconnected the battery and cranked it up. The radio cut on and off, all the service lights on the dash flickered, the starter kept engaging and numerous other things began to act up.
    After a few days passed and I spent some time on the computer doing a bit of research, I found multiple cases where the front windshield would leak causing a very small amount of moisture to enter the wire harness under the dash, the fuse box, the computer and so on. I took apart the underside of my dash and found a very small amount of corrosion on two connectors. I cleaned them best I could and let the truck sit for a few days with the windows cracked down just a bit.
    Today I ran the crap out of it with no problems?
    I plan on replacing the factory windshield next week as this is obviously a manufacture defect that ford has known about as far back as 2002 as has done nothing about. BS
    Now for the kicker... I just sold my 2007 King Ranch F-150 with only 42k miles for $9000 less then its true value due to a problem ford has had with there pis poor spark plug design on the 3 valve 5.4 V-8. and before that a constant hassle with that POS 6.0 Liter Diesel.
    Needless to say, I for the love of god will never buy a another ford vehicle as long as I live.
    The fact that they have problems is one thing, The fact that they dont step up to the plate and correct there problems is why this one is my last!
    I will post back after changing the windshield and let you all know if that was the problem.

    Thanks for your time,
    Brian
  • alwaysfords2alwaysfords2 Member Posts: 339
    If you sold a truck for 9k under value because of a sub 1k plug job you made a bad choice.

    I think you are the right track with the windshield.
  • roushcupcarroushcupcar Member Posts: 1
    got some of the same issues with my 03 EB expedition. did you figure it out yet? Im leaning towards a water leak from windshield making its way to the fuse panel located by the parking brake.did not have a dead battery yet but auto lights,interior lights,false door ajar warning,4x4 lights flashing also. what a piece of junk!
  • nrmatthnrmatth Member Posts: 2
    I've heard it's the GM Module
  • kd4kmzkd4kmz Member Posts: 19
    It is in the instrument panel, try this, unscrew the two screws that are holding the cover in place, do nothing else, the next time the windows or radio don't work, just push on your instrument panel and walla you will see it it there, some thought it was the connector, that is not it, it is a condition where teh temepature or humniiduty in the vehicle is affecting the dispaly unit wher it is releasing the ground, that is why you see the flickering, note this is only for 2003 units built in 2002, from all the blogs I have reviewed. Your door ajar and lights on is due to the attuator in the door, see the blogs about spraying WD40 in the doors and working them until it goes away, the atuators get gummed up after a period of time
  • peapaawpeapaaw Member Posts: 1
    edited February 2011
    It started with the radio going out then my instrument panel lights would come on and off , 4x4 windshield fluid . Today my radio went out this only happens alot when in drive and after rain or snow .But is hasnt rained or snowed here in a few days .So today my truck started with the key not all the way on when im in park or nuetral it just keeps trying to start .Have the whole under my dash apart dont even know where to start .Thought it was a remote starter problem but dont think i have one .2001 ford expadition . Dont want to get reamed at the mech .Been looking through this site and getting conflicting resalutions .Does any one know whats wrong . It usualy doesnt happen when its not raining .Now when i put the key in it keeps starting And radio will go out and windshield washer light come on and off , hear a clicking noise when it happens. key is in and turned on but not to start just turned on and all of a sudden truck will start then keep on trying to start .Please helppppppp
  • chetekwichetekwi Member Posts: 1
    I see am not alone with electrical problems hear are my issues that just started a couple days ago. Dash light for 4wd flash on and off, dome light won't turn on when opening the door, heated seats don't work, auto lights don't work, radio turns on when shutting the car off and opening the door. I have 131,000 miles never spent a dime except for tires/ brakes and now a new battery, does anyone know the solution to this problem. It sound like Ford doesn't know and i really don't want to put 1000s of dollars into it and not fix the problem. Any and all help would be apprecaited. :cry:
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles