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Comments
I have a 98 VW Rabbit GLS. The temperature gauge reads normal temp. However the red temp idicator light has bee flashing. I just had the oil changed and the coolant was topped off and the flashing red light stopped. I had been driving for about an hour and the light started flashing once again. On top of that the check engine light is on. Any insight on this issue. Just wondering if the temp light could be affecting the check engine light. Maybe I need a new thermostat?
Thanks,
Tony
I have a 2008 (2.5 5 Cyl) Rabbit, wondering how often I should replace the coolant?
I'm getting close to 7k miles.
Thank you
Pablo
P.S. Please let me know if I should go back to the manual I just don't have it in front of my right now. Thanks!
Best regards,
Shipo
Appreciate it!
I'm new to VW and find it strange that the manual is contradicting what my car is telling me :confuse:
Heck of a nice car though. And the 5 cylinder is very smooth on the '09. It was a little rough and growly when I test drove it first year of introduction. Now it's super nice.
Turn the car off, then push down the wiper lever like you would if you wanted to have the wipers make one pass. Except that since the car is off, it will stop half way and you will be able to pull the wipers away from the windshield. This sort of works like the power windows, when you turn the car off, you can still roll the windows off, but once you open the doors or let enough time pass they won't go up. Same is for the most part true for the wipers. I hope I explained just well enough for you to figure it out.
It is really pathetic how little some in sales know about the cars they sell. IIRC, we were told about this as part of a standard delivery proceedure when we got ours in 2005. (we were also introduced to the owner's manual as a part of that )
Before I got around to it, (at about 3 yrs, 8 months and 27 K mi) a problem occured which turned on the check engine light. So I asked them if the computer scan that they would do would be the same as the one that is part of the 40K, they said "yes", so I figured there was no point in paying for it again.
While they had it, I had them do the oil change that was going to be due and I asked them if they would also do all the inspections that were part of the 40K, so that they would be done prior to warranty end.
I'm letting the plugs go a few months beyond 4 years, I figure with our low mileage (about 30K now at just over 4 years) that a couple months will not create a problem and the power train warranty is still in effect.
They were nice enough to not even charge me for the inspection items at all and it is a long, detailed list. So between that and the free scan, I'll save a bit on the 40K maintenance.
I did not do the 4 year brake fluid flush early, I did not figure that would find any potential warranty issues and I am thinking, now that the warranty is over, I'll extend that interval to 2.5 or 3 years, every 2 years seems excessive They did do a brake inspection.
As to the spark plugs, at least on my 2001 VW Golf, I think 40k was optimistic, and I think that solely because the engine ran a little smoother after the plug change. Mind you it didn't seem to run rough before, just smoother after, so that makes me think 30k for plugs change might not be a bad idea.
Sounds like you have a great dealer!
I'm thinking now that provided I keep this car longer than my typical ownership period (I plan to - it's really nice), I should get the 40k service done at 30k, and ask the dealer since the oil service is part of the free maintenance, to not charge me for that. But do the other stuff 10 earlier, then repeat at 60.
I am also planning on changing the oil every 5k instead of 10k UNLESS it uses a quart every 3k miles like my two former Golfs, in which case after the first 5k change I'll just stick with the factory recommended 10k intervals, adding a quart of oil every 3k or so miles - I think adding the make-up oil will be plenty in terms of making sure the oil in the crankcase has good viscosity and additive levels. I've read a long term long-oil change interval test in which make-up oil is remarkably effective in restoring TBN and additive levels. In other words, you can drain the oil and replace it, or let some of it get consumed lubricating the top cylinder and valve guides, either way so long at you are adding make-up or replacement oil, the engine is protected!
I also feel comfortable with this interval since I ran a Chevy Cobalt along my same commute route and that car, spec'd for conventional dino oil, was indicating 11k oil change intervals via the OLM (oil life monitor actually oil life calculator).
Our 2.5 engine does not use much oil. I've added only about 1.25 quarts total, during its entire life...and some of that was added right after a change where they had filled it to just the min level. That's in 30,000 miles, with oil changes every 12 months (typically that has been about 7000 miles).
Best regards,
Shipo
[begin thread hijack!]
What do you think about using Syntec 0W-30 in a Nissan 1.8 engine - I have the Cube as well, it almost "lugs" the engine when driven lightly with the CVT, I am concerned about bearing protection and worried the new SM grade oils don't have adequate levels of anti-wear additives - I understand both the Syntec 0W-30 and Royal Purple 5-30 are SL, not SM graded with extra anti wear additives.
Do you think the SM antiwear additives are sufficient now in light of the Mobil 1 5W-30 "wear issue" Valvoline is claiming?
I have a jug of Valvoline 5W-30 for my first Cube oil change. But I just read a thread on another forum about Nissan 1.8 engine problems related to oil failure. So I am a little worried about what I use in the Cube and how often I change it. The SL oil would probably void my catalytic converrter warranty but not the engine warranty, to make matters further complicated....
[end of thread hijack - I don't mean to start a discussion, but I know Shipo is quite the oil-head and I'm too lazy to shift to the oil forum]
- I have yet to see any concrete evidence that the new SM oils (at least the ones that are considered "Synthetic") have any wear related issues.
- Per the Castrol web site, yes, Syntec 0W-30 is only SL rated, and as such, it's probably an older formula (i.e. pre-SM) that includes a fair amount of ZDDP (the stuff that poisons catalytic converts).
- IMHO, the "Mobil 1 wear issue" as claimed by Valvoline is a red herring and is more marketing bilge than anything else. I say that because of you take a look at the Mobil 1 5W-30 (why anybody would use 5W-30 when 0W-30 is available for the same price is beyond me) UOAs on the BITOG web site, I have yet to see any evidence of accelerated wear in any engine.
- Regarding premature failures of the Nissan 1.8 liter mills, I'm curious to know if they track to any particular oil type (i.e. grade or group type), transmission type, geographic region, driving environment or have anything else on common. I'm also curious if Nissan has released any TSBs on the issue.
Best regards,
Shipo
Keep us posted.
Best regards,
Shipo
Best regards,
Shipo
1. With light driving, a lot of near-lugging, driving on city streets @ 1200 rpm.
2. With heavy acceleration, the CVT holds high RPM much longer than you would typically hold with a manual or conventional auto tranny.
That is why high film strength oil like Royal Purple with high antiwear additives (like Royal Purple of German Castro) might be worth considering.
It's ironic that the traditionally quirky VW is less "fussy" to me than the "Japanese" Cube. That's because VW spec's their own fluids designed to exactly match their engine design and transmission philosophy. The Cube has to rely on 99 cent close out motor oil from Kragen....
So people who complain about 502 oil and difficulty locating it and expense don't know how good they actually have it....
Yikes, twelve hundred RPMs, yeah, that's a bit low. Sounds like Nissan is working for the fuel economy thing and not the engine longevity thing. Go figure. :confuse:
OTOH, during a trip last week in CA + OR we put 1400 miles on a rental car (I don't think Hertz made a profit at the resulting ~13 cents per mile). During last year's week in WY, ID, MT we did about 1000 on a rental.
Its side bottom surface is not even. It is very uneven, bumpy and jagged.
Is it normal? Why VW makes it this way?
There are so many ways in which a VW, otherwise very reliable, can get mucked up by mechanics who don't work on them:
1. Using conventional instead of full synthetic oil.
2. Using "ordinary" full synthetic oil instead of Euro spec full synthetic oil, which is certified for long life oil changes. VW publishes their own specific requirement, I have lost track of the current one (502 something?).
3. Failing to change the drain plug ($9) each oil change. The drain plug has a "crush once" washer and since it cannot be removed from the plug, VW requires an entire new plug. However since you have 10,000 mile oil changes (assuming you are using Euro spec long life full synthetic) the added cost is nominal. (This cost me a $500 oil pan replacement for using a non-VW oil changer. They kept reusing the plug and eventually stripped the threads from over-tightening to stop leaks from the badly deformed washer.)
4. Risking an aftermarket oil filter. In Europe this probably wouldn't be a problem, since VW is a dominant maker over there and the filter manufacturers are careful to adhere to VW fit and specs. Over here, who knows? But independent mechanics usually get whatever their jobber carries since their regular jobber comps the delivery charge, rather than placing a small order for one filter and drain plug with a VW dealer.
5. Risking an aftermarket air filter. See above.
6. Using the wrong brake fluid, wrong auto transmission fluid, wrong coolant. VW uses a performance level brake fluid, IIRC. Most mechanics stock regular fluid (and who makes it?). VW auto transmission fluid is a VW specific fluid and it is hard to find certified replacements - but after market vendors often claim to have "universal" fluids or "additives" to make it comply. Same with coolant - even for a top-off.
7. Using aftermarket brake pads. Coefficient of friction may not satisfy VW requirements for operation of its ABS/stability control systems.
8. Lack of proper tools.
9. Lack of experience; too much reliance on experience with other cars; unwillingness to use a good online service manual like Alldata due to subscription costs and time required to read through it.
When I went to price the 40k service on my last generation Golf, it took a highly recommended independent shop that had VW plastered on their sign (along with Volvo, Subaru, etc.) 15 minutes to research and price this service and the price they quoted me was $40 higher than the dealer.
The only work an independent garage does on my current Rabbit is drain the oil, use the replacement bolt I walk in with a torque wrench, and refill with factory oil purchased at the dealer. No filter change (you have to unbolt an underbody panel, and its not a conventional cannister, it's a drop in), just the oil, and only because I don't like to go 10,000 miles on the first oil change - even though with SIX quarts of capacity the car is quite capable of going 10k miles on my easy freeway commute with factory full synthetic.
Since VW service is comparable in pricing to Toyota etc. service and they actually do more work (replace brake fluid and spark plugs) I have no desire to have someone mess up my car while they learn that VW's are "different." Been there, done that.
Also of course the services at the dealer are free up to 36,000 miles.
By then you should know if you want to keep the car. If you don't, VW's have had good resale value, equal to or better than Japanese makes.
BTW the 2.5 has a 6 quart oil sump, so it really CAN make it 10k between oil changes with full syn.
If you are still nervous about that, you can do an undocumented 5k oil change yourself. My dealer sells Syntec 5-40 for $6 per quart, a fair price, and the drain plug is only $9 or so. It's a quick job to drain the oil - no panels to remove if you aren't touching the oil filter. I think changing the oil without a filter change is ok in this instance - I have no doubt the filter is good for 10k miles. If you skip that step, freshening the oil is easy.
BTW monitor the oil level every 1k miles. During break in its normal to use 1/2 quart of oil every 2k miles.