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Honda CR-V Transmission Questions

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Comments

  • The dealer knows exactly whats wrong with your trans. I have an 02' and the trans is doing the same thing for years. Now it wont pass inspection until it's fixed. I don't know what I'm going to do.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    The Honda CRV had the trans fluid replaced at the Honda dealership ...my wife tells me.

    What do you think of exploring these possibilities prior to transmission replacement?

    - low level? fluid.
    - transmission control module needs fixing?
    - transmission mount and motor mount secure?


    Do the triple fluid replacement before doing anything else. If the triple fluid replacement does not help, then proceed with other diagnostics.
  • waddy2waddy2 Posts: 2
    Have a 2001 CRV. Previous owner never had trans fluid replaced.Car runs smooth but at 60 mph or more it feels as if trans should shift to higher gear but isnt.Would a fluid change help and every thing im reading here suggests to stay away from a fluid flush.
  • waddy2waddy2 Posts: 2
    How do you change the gas filter on a 95 lebaron?
  • motoguy128motoguy128 Posts: 146
    Wrong forum.

    But to answer your question. Why bother? It's a maricle your Lebaron is still running after 15 years. Most of them were unreliable when new. Mostly electrical gremlins.

    But, like most cars it's probably inside the fuel tank.
  • tawnitawni Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 crv and it started to shake took to shop. They replaced front right axle and seal. Seal started leaking wasn't leaking before. They say now needs a new transmission and these are kind of notorious for bad trans. Will a rebuilt trans fix this problem or will it go out in another 100k or has the problem been fixed with a new trans. What is the best way to go. Also what is the recommended timing belt change on this one?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    I have a 2001 crv and it started to shake took to shop. They replaced front right axle and seal. Seal started leaking wasn't leaking before. They say now needs a new transmission and these are kind of notorious for bad trans. Will a rebuilt trans fix this problem or will it go out in another 100k or has the problem been fixed with a new trans. What is the best way to go. Also what is the recommended timing belt change on this one?

    They probably damaged the seal when they installed new drive shaft.

    Also, if you do get work done on the transmission, Honda's automatic transmission, aka Hondamatic, can only use Honda ATF Z-1 fluid, only available at the Honda dealer. There is no generic replacement, regardless what anyone tells you.

    Timing belt schedule should be in the owner's manual. Probably 105,000 miles. It is recommended to replace the water pump at the same time, simply because it is easily accessible when everything is off to replace the timing belt. Most of the cost is labor. Timing belt it self is a $50 part.
  • stevedebistevedebi LAPosts: 3,811
    "But, like most cars it's probably inside the fuel tank. "

    On most cars I have seen, it is installed in the fuel line between the tank and the injectors, inside the engine compartment.
  • susanwsiccar1susanwsiccar1 Posts: 1
    edited December 2010
    My car (135,000 miles auto 2.0 4 cyl.auto 4wd) started shifting slow when cranked (sunday); got better. Next day same thing- only noticed revving between gears. Engine light came on- codes read: a & b solenoid & auto-clutch solenoid out. Today it wouldn't shift into anything but first w/ shutter at acceleration. I've been told I need new tranny-
    to replace solenoid valves. i've been told this would be a temp.
  • bpembbpemb Posts: 1
    Be aware that you Must change the transmission fluid. I overlooked it and ended up with 112k miles and a trashed transmission. I thought I had the dealer do it, but my mistake.
    The whine is the torque converter. Hope this alerts someone from having the same bad experience.
  • timbonztimbonz Posts: 1
    Hi,
    Sister has a 99 crv, prob never changed the trans fluid done over 100,000. Had a prblem the other day. transmission stopped working. she put it in gear and motor revs but no movement.
    she left the car there and when I went to go tow it back The trans worked again. after a few miles same thing happened. seems when it warms up it doesn't work. then when it is cold works ok. Just wondering if I should do a triple fluid change as stated lots in this forum. or is the trans stuffed and just put a new one in.
    any help much appreciated
  • txkcpettytxkcpetty Posts: 1
    edited June 2011
    The Honda has been great for 3yrs until yesterday :cry: .. AS driving hwy speed it suddenly seemed to slip into N, . slow down at least. Turn off vehicle and restart and it ran fine for a mile or so then did it again. Transmission fluid was low, replaced. But still does same thing. Ran code and got a P0730. I don't see that it needs a whole new transmission, since it runs ok and shifts fine for a bit. How about ECM or a solinoid? How would I know? :confuse: -- This is my sons car, he is a special needs adult and has a very limited income, he is so proud of his vehicle and ability to drive it.... Any advice
  • Hi guys... I have a crv 2003 model and it has problem with the transmission. on of the guys at the service centre told me that i need to change the transmission. the problem is it is too expensive. almost 6000 dollars. i just need to know is it safe make a long drive with the car in that kind of condition or is it better to get it repair first....?? Hope any of you guys could help me...
    thank you...
  • I would say the tranny is all done. I think when the fluid settles to the bottom it activates the gears enough to get you to the next light. So, weather it sat for a few days or a few minutes, the result would be the same. I'm no pro, but I had the same thing happen to me.
  • My suggestion would be to have a couple of transmission shops testdrive the car. If they both find there to be a problem, have the work done at the shop of your choice. Stay away from the dealer on this one, unless it's covered under warenty. You could get away with paying under $3000.
  • My 2001 was doing the same thing. I had just bought it from Balise Honda in September 2011. The dealership would change the fluid and say "Seems fine now". Yeah right!! Went through a battle with them. They finally paid for a rebuild just last week. The transmission shops I took it to did a testdrive and told me I had some internal faliuer. The shop owner who fixed it said he found a badly worn main clutch. I'm not too familieur with the workings of the tranny, but the car shifts beautiful now.
  • coryj1coryj1 Posts: 1
    Here is a little info on why you get the rear wheel vib when turning tight left or right

    basically when the front wheels slip, it causes a difference in pressure between the two pumps in the rear differential ( one pump is powered by the propeller shaft, and the second by the rear half shafts ) the difference in pressure pushes open a valve, and pushed the clutch pack togehter causing power to be sent to the rear shafts, once traction is restored to the front wheels, or if the differential over heats, the valve is closed and the clutch pack is released. the Dual Pump Fluid II not only powers the hydraulic system, but it also lubricates and cools the differential. the rear differential also has a "breathing tube" on the top. after so many miles ( it depends on driving habbits, conditions, and debris/contaminates in the fluid ) the fluid needs to be replaced, the clutch packs will eventually need to be burnished, and the differential may need to be flushed.

    bad fluid or clutch packs will cause a groan, or a grinding sound. but only when the clutch packs are engaged.



    to check the fluid level, unbolt the top filler bolt and stick your finger in, you should be able to feel fluid level with the treads. to drain the differential open the filler bolt, and the lower bolt, replace drain ( lower ) bolt and fill with about one and a half bottle of dual pump fluid ( about $8.50 US ) make sure fluid is level with filler bolt. drive about fifteen minutes and check fluid again. if you have been having problems you may want to either get clutch packs burnished or you could repeat the changing process at least 3 times, until when emptying the differential all that comes out is new fluid.

    Also a lot of shifting issue are cured by doing the 3 drain and fills with genuine Honda ATF Z1 (now DW1)
  • ml3ml3 Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 2008 CRV-EX and from the get-go, the transmission will downshift at the slightest grade change, even as little as the rise of an overpass on the interstate. It's much worse with the cruise control on but still occurs with it off. While not a direct comparo, my Mazda pickup drives these same roads with no downshift whereas the CRV sometimes drops into 3rd.

    So, not sure if I should be looking more at the cruise control vs the transmission. I'm reluctant to take the car to the local Honda folks as their fix for my a/c cycling off for a minute or longer on a hot days was to tell me Honda recommends that you should always run your a/c in recycle mode. My fear is that they'll want to replace the tires.

    Suggestions? Thanks.
  • tuner_4lifetuner_4life Posts: 1
    edited October 2012
    i have a 98 crv auto. awd. the rear diff went bad so i replaced it. and after i did so the drive shaft spins when im in gear and the brakes are applied ( car is not moving) should it do this? the diff. fluid is full i double and triple checked and not only that now when the car is in park it rolls almost like the parking pin is not working :mad: . i am stumped please give me some ideas. :confuse: and when you are on the gas when driving you get a squealing noise. thanks!
  • garynygaryny Posts: 2
    I bought a 2007 BMW x3 as a replacement to the Honda CRV. I was a good move in hindsight. The X3 is high performance, cost less and gets better mileage. After 2 years with the X3 I'd have no reason to suffer again with the quirks of a Honda Trans.
  • I have been driving a 2000 Acura and a 99 Accord since several years ago. Everything else works just great except that the transmissions suffer from exactly the problem that many other Honda owners have reported: The car often (but not always) gives me an obvious feeling of pause when I try to accelerate.

    Now I am interested in buying a new CR-V, so I would like to know if Honda's transmission problem still persists and if it affects the CR-V 2013 models.

    Any information would be helpful. Thank you!
  • My 2002 CR-V has 260k+ miles and has never left me stranded a single time, original engine and transmission. Rear diff is half bad (3 wheel drive?).

    The current generations CR-V uses a 5 speed automatic. This transmission was introduced in 2002 Accord (I think) and had early issues, but is now bulletproof.
  • I've owned 3 Accords, a 1990, a 1997 and a 2004. All are still running like tops on original engines and transmissions. Bought a 2013 CR-V back in April and so far it's been running flawlessly. It's the nature of these forums that the people who provide input are usually those who are having problems. It's not unusual for any product which is produced in the hundreds of thousands every year that some slip thru the cracks which are not up to par. Unfortunate, but it happens. The fact remains that Hondas are renowned for their reliability and being a high quality vehicle.
  • Back in March my auto trans went. Started to slip and then stopped working a few days later. Took it to a trans specialist and had rebuilt. Paid in the ballpark of $3,000.
    Several weeks ago it had begun slipping. Only happens when the trans goes from 1st to 2nd gear. Everything else is fine. I had it into the same shop again since it has a warranty, he said he couldnt find any issue. He said nothing looked wrong. But he took the whole thing apart, redid it just to be sure, said he changed some wiring to new (don't know what that meant), rode it all over and said it was fine. I had it for a day, was doing great, and then this afternoon it starts to buck again between 1st and 2nd when you start from a dead stop. Again all other gears are fine. VERY frustrating. Anyone have this issue, or any ideas? Should I take it to a different person for a second opinion?

    Thanks!
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