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If that doesn't work, have the vehicle towed to the dealership with your keys, and they can reprogram the computer to accept the security chip in each key.
Symptoms:
insert key and turn ignition...
Engine turns over for about 2 seconds.
Reset key
Repeat.. Same 2 seconds.
I plan to remove the starter and have it tested at an auto parts place.
Any other words of wisdom or if you have seen this problem before?
:confuse:
Thank you all.
Vito
Is it possible the key microchip, isn't registered in the computer anymore? Can you try a different key to eliminate that as a possibility?
I bought my '01 Tahoe a little over a year ago. The first day the SES light came on, and went off again right away. But no symptoms were occuring. It did this off and on for the first year. My code reader kept saying multiple missfire, or bad 02 sensor, but still drove just fine. Then, starting this winter, it developed a rough idle, and sometimes hard to start.
When starting, if it's been sitting for a while, it will start perfectly. If warmed up, it will just crank unless you push the pedal to the floor (like it's flooded). It will then start, but smoke eminates from the tailpipe, and you can smell the gasoline.
The rough idle is never apparent at first, but after it sits idleing for a few minutes, it becomes rough, but never dies or stalls. After driving for a few minutes, it dissappears, but returns in a few minutes of idle.
Now, I am getting the code P0446, so now I may have a fuel/vent/vacuum issue as well. But this just started a week ago.
The spark plugs, wires, and fuel filter are all new within the last 3 months.
Could all these issues be stemming from one problem? Or is multiple problems that are affecting the same system? I hate this, give me a 4bbl carb and a screw driver, and this would have been a 10 minute fix. :mad:
I replaced the oxygen sensors, there were supposed to be four but ended up only having two.
I also tightened the crap out of the fuel cap.
Now, no codes come back. It's been going for two days without one code. Unfortunately, it still has the same symptoms, hard to start and rough idle. So I fixed something, just not what was causing the symptoms. Going to try the fuel pressure next.
My next step was to replace the fuel pressure regulator, about $40. It ran rough for about a minute, I guess as fuel got back in the lines. Then, I thought it died. Actually, it smoothed out and ran like brand new! So quiet I had to rev the engine to hear it.
My 96 Burb is doing the exact same thing. Like you, I changed ignition switch, starter and battery tested good. Move key to start---one click and all power goes out. Wait 5 seconds and the power comes back. Turn to start again--same result. Hoping you got yours figured out by now.
The sensor might have been telling you the fuel pressure was low, not necessarily that the sensor itself was bad.
The error codes tend to get you to the right area, then it is hands on diagnostics that get you to the actual failing components.
Just had the transmission rebuilt in my 02 Tahoe.
While at the tranny shop, passlock reset had to be done.
Picked up today and shut off and started numerous times without any trouble.
Went out a little while later to run to the store and it won't crank.
No security light blinking this time.
All electrical works, interior lights, headlamps, radio, etc.
Towed to repair shop, started up every time. Brought it home, parked in driveway. started it up about ten times just to be sure , no problems.
went back out an hour later, same thing, wont start, all electrical dash components, etc work, just no crank.
towed to the shop again, you guessed it. started right up. Took it for a ride and they tried to duplicate what I did..drive for 20 minutes, park it at the shop, start and shut off numerous times, let it sit for a while, still starts.
It sat at the shop for the long holiday weekend, started right up this morning. Guaranteed if I go get it and bring it home, it wont start tomorrow morning, and I really would rather not have it towed every other day.
any suggestions, or similar stories with a solution?
Won't fail at the shop; mechanic guessed fuel pump.
Have determined that it hardly ever fails to crank when the fuel tank is more than half full. If it fails, adding more fuel has helped. What is the likely cause of this failure to crank when the tank is less than half full?
Pulled the starter and bench test fine, replaced the solenoid just for grins. Put starter back in and now I cannot connect the battery without it trying to start on its own?
Dealer has no clue......unless of course I have it towed in so they can look at it.
Any ideas anyone? Thanks :confuse:
Assuming not starting, put a voltmeter on the start wire normally connected to the solenoid. If it's 12+ volts, then something upstream is trying to give power to the solenoid and engage the starter.
When I try to start, it behaves exactly as though it were in gear instead of Neutral or Park. There is some clicking under the dash, but nothing at all from the engine compartment. I have checked the fuses, etc, and the battery is good. A jump start/boost has no effect.
This afternoon I tried to pull the starter so I could check power at the solenoid. I consider myself a decent mechanic, but darned if I could even get it out from its location. The dipstick tube blocks the forward motion so that the gear snout will not come out of the bell housing. What a pain!
So I have decided to start from scratch, and think of other possibilites, such as the Neutral Switch. If that fails, would it prevent a start at all? Where is it located, and how could I check its function?
Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated, including a technique to get the darn starter off!
Thanks, Alan
The difference for me was i was driving, made a left turn, and the truck started sputtering (not responding to the throttle). As i pulled into a parking lot the low fuel light came on. Although i knew i had gas, i put more in it but still can't get it to start. It sounds like it has enough to fire once but goes right back to the starter spinning. Several posts have mentioned the MAP sensor, FPR, fuel filter, and/or fuel pump. Given my symptoms where should i start???
I'd be thinking that for your case, there was some bad data stored in the active memory, and killing the power for a bit got rid of it and set your Tahoe's PCM back to original programming.
brand new fuse (junction box) put on today and we get all indicators lighting up on the dash, headlights work, but driver side seems dimmer the the passenger.
we noticed that there is no little line under the PRND like before that let you know what gear you are in. we can move the shifter and we can select auto 2x 4x 4l no problem and it moves to the selected choice.
when we turn the key we get only a faint click from around the battery area, and nothing for a turn over. all the dash lights go dark but come right back on when we let the key return.
we have a dual battery F250 hooked to it for boosting, so i don't think power is an issue as far as supply goes.
any ideas, does this missing indicator line under the PRND have something to do with it not turning over.
thanks
I guess what I'd suggest is this:
- if you paid someone to fix this, take it back and have them finish the job correctly.
- if you repaired this yourself, then take the electrical schematics and a meter and start troubleshooting the circuits. You either don't have something hooked up correctly, or something else was blown that should have been replaced, and wasn't.
- I don't know whether there are multiple (different) fuse panels and whether they gave you the correct part, but having an incorrect part might also be a possibility.
I'd start by measuring the voltage on all the main buses and fused circuits, to make sure everything is indeed powered. Assuming everything okay, then I'd move to the start circuit. You getting a click and no starter turn, sounds like you don't have full voltage to the starter.
Back in business now, the Sub starts easily.
A couple of notes for anyone doing this job: Get a new dipstick tube in advance, the old one will be damaged. The new one will fit too tight, I had to reduce the portion which fits into the block by 0.004 after the paint was removed (belt sander). Then, I had to make a tool out of a 20" long piece of galvanized pipe to get the tube to seat into the block. Makes no sense to be that tight, there is an o-ring for sealing it. The current part which is a replacement heat shield for the solenoid is INCORRECT! If you can recover the old one, use it. I removed/sealed some rust and repainted the sheild for my truck..
Can you please email me with your VIN and your user name here. I would like to look into this for you.
Christina
GM Customer Service
Thanks.
It will not start and its not the battery. When you turn it over all it will do is click and the all the light will come on. Can anyone help me with this.
Thanks
Have you taken your vehicle into a dealer? If not I would recommend doing so. Can you please email me with your VIN and current mileage as well? I look forward to your response.
Christina
GM Customer Service
Now we all (me included) expect our vehicles to last forever, with no to minimal maintenance, and any parts to cost next to nothing.