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Chevrolet Suburban and Tahoe No Start problems

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Comments

  • wsnowwsnow Member Posts: 1
    I have an 04 Tahoe LS almost 160,000 miles on it bought used. Have had an intermittent start problem. Always when security light starts flashing. If it's flashing, car will not start. It turns over but seems as if the starter is not engaging. Typically, I will have to wait 15-20 minutes and then it will start. There is no pattern to when it does this either. Recently, it's been happening a lot. Have talked to a couple other people that had similar problems and we have figured out it's definitely a security issue. We know it's not the key or the ignition as a copy of the original key will start it, provided the security light is not flashing. About 2 weeks ago, after 3 hours it still wouldn't start. My husband pulled the stereo as that's where the little red light is indicating when the alarm is set. He disconnected it & what do ya know, it started right up. He put it all back together and it was working fine. Then Saturday, it stranded me at the grocery store. After 20 minutes, it started. Sunday I went to start it....not happening. Also because the lights come on every stinking time you turn the key on, it killed my battery. Here it is 10:15 Monday morning & I had to get a ride to work from my daughter because it still won't start & battery is completely dead. We know it's not a fuel problem, spark problem, battery, ignition, key, tumbler or anything else. Does anyone else have this issue? I was told by a client that his wife's 05 Yukon did the same thing. He had the factory security system removed & replaced with an aftermarket one and hasn't had a bit of trouble since. Is this a common problem? I'm ready to set fire to the stupid thing. (JK) But it is very frustrating.
  • sef4sef4 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 Tahoe LT and having the same starting issues, dealers cannot find a problem. Has anyone figured out the problem?
  • steveqsteveq Member Posts: 14
    Ask the dealer to update the Body Control Module (BCM).
  • suzanne333suzanne333 Member Posts: 4
    It's me again... After talking with GM and the dealership for 2 week I decide to ask for the service manager, I spoke with him yesterday, he replaced the negative battery cable for free, very nice! I pick it up yesterday it starts and runs just fine. I start it up this morning and the security light flashes and the car starts shifting hard. When this happen it means that it won't start the next time, I am leaving work now, let's all hope it starts. It's amazing to me that GM is on this board and is aware of all the issues and doesn't do ANYTHING about it. Very sad!
  • steveqsteveq Member Posts: 14
    Did you ask the service manager about updating the Body Control Module (BCM)?
  • disneymamadisneymama Member Posts: 3
    We have an 03 Tahoe with 93,000 miles on it. We were having random issues. The horn wouldn't work occasionally, the clock on the radio would reset to 12:01 occasionally. we replaced relay for horn, it works all the time now. replaced ignition switch and clock has not reset. The only problem we can not seem to fix is the starter occasionally stick when the car is first started in the am. It can happen in the summer or winter. We get the dreaded metal grinding noise. My husband took the starter off and had it tested and it passed. Put it back on started fine. the next morning grinding. Has anyone else had this issue? Could it be a bad solenoid yet the starter passed? The car runs fine otherwise, no other issues. Oh, except we also have the cluster problem everyone else is talking about. Right now it is just the speedometer. It can be so frustrating trying to connect the dots!
  • suzanne333suzanne333 Member Posts: 4
    Well, it worked for 6 days.... Went to start on Sunday morning, nothing. Tried again about an hour later, nothing. Tried 2 hours later and it starts. CRAZY! I have it back at the dealership but they are at a loss as well. Where do I go if a Chevy dealer can't fix it?!?!?!
  • suzanne333suzanne333 Member Posts: 4
    Hi Steveq,
    I will ask the dealer to check out the BCM, however the battery is holding a charge, no issue with a low battery at all. I am looking forward to finding the answer to my Tahoe's issues.
    Thanks,
    Suzanne
  • carlton2carlton2 Member Posts: 1
    I was wondering if you were ever able to solve this problem?
  • jaybird0552jaybird0552 Member Posts: 1
    I had a 2001 Chevy Silverado Z71 My security light is going off In my truck will not stay running for more than 2 seconds I have been all over them net and can't seem to solve my problem. I do not have the money or the time to take that route to a dealer. I really just wanna find a way to take the security system out of the truck im going to be putting a remote starter in it. I just need to figure out a way to get the security light out
  • lenexaguylenexaguy Member Posts: 3
    Did you ever find the fix for this. My tahoe is doing the exact same thing. I know the battery is good because I changed it myself with a brand new one. When I turn the key I hear 1 click and thats it. Everything works lights, horn, windows, seats. etc......
  • jzahnjzahn Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2007 suburban and it has the same problem. It upsets me that we paid this much for a vehicle and it does this. I am afraid for my with to even take it to the store because we never know if it is going to start or not. So if someone knows what is causing it PLEASE help. I think it has to do with the security system but idk.

    Jim
  • lenexaguylenexaguy Member Posts: 3
    I bit the bullet and took my vehicle to the dealership. Next time this happens have someone tap on the starter with a hammer or big screw driver. From what I gathered the starter even though is bad will on occasion not work. I had mine replaced and it worked like a charm. I was introduced by a friend to a mechanic at a certain dealership and he showed me after the truck was towed there. Sure enough the truck wouldn't start after being towed but he tapped on the starter while I turned the key and it worked. STARTER REPLACED....everything works fine now. Make sure you don't unplug the battery as this erases any trouble codes in the computer for them to look at. It's worth a shot next time this happens to you.
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    Glad to hear that the fix was successful!
    Many more happy miles,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • robtahoerobtahoe Member Posts: 1
    I have been Havin the exactly same starter stickin and grinding problem for 2 yrs now........at times it will go away for a few months but then return..
    ive replaced ignition switches and relays..checked the starter...it all goes away for a while...but returns ...........my dash, ac control lights aswell as the speedometer lights are out too ........Any luck finding the problem?
  • chem4life93chem4life93 Member Posts: 2
    edited April 2012
    OK I got a 04 Chevy Surb 1500 Z71 4WD that wont start. She cranks and trys to start but wont.

    OK what I have done so far:
    Started it with Starting fluid( she ran, so no ignition issues)
    Fuel pump can be heard priming & fuse is OK, Replaced the pressure regulator, (fuel was present when replaced)
    Used some rather nasty words!!

    Any suggestions on my next step?
  • chem4life93chem4life93 Member Posts: 2
    OK so I rented a fuel pressure gauge and had no pressure at to filter. So I replaced the feul pump and she started right up.

    I few hints if anyone is interested in doing this on ther own such as myself:

    Before you start you must disconnect the power and remove the gas cap.
    1. jack the rear end up and put it on stands .
    2. remove drive shaft and clips on the heat sheild (that is on the tank)
    3 remove filler & vent hose.
    4. put pressure on the tank with a floor jack
    5. remove stap bolts
    6 lower tank all the way down ( you have to stop half way and push the hoses over the axal). The front of the tank will rest on a slanted part of the frame and the rear of the tank will rest on the ground.(just enough room to remove the pump)
    7. remove switches, fuel line on pump.
    8. liquid wrentch the retaining nut and remove as much rust as possible.
    9. remove retaining nut and remove pump.
    10. reverse the procedure to replace the pump.

    I hope this help someone out there
  • nikki32nikki32 Member Posts: 1
    I just replaced my starter fuse...the same problem keeps recurring...what could be the problem.
  • alanrsalanrs Member Posts: 25
    A fuse which blows indicates excessive current draw. They are used in automotive wiring (and plenty of other places where electricity is the energy source) to prevent major faults and damage to wiring, motors, lights, etc., and cut back the possibility of fires.

    If the fuse to the starter is being cooked, then the amperage from the battery is not getting to where it was designed to go when you turn the key. Possibilities include the starter itself, or the starter solenoid, or wiring/connectors in the circuit that has become frayed/worn/corroded. and incapable of carrying the current.

    The problem I had some years ago was a bad (corroded) connection between the main negative battery ground strap and the engine block. It caused a fusible link to melt several times. The dealership missed the issue, and it cost me a starter and an alternator before I found it myself. Intermittently, the system would decide to do nothing more than produce a faint click when a start was attempted, but the lights and all accessories worked.
  • chewy81chewy81 Member Posts: 1
    1999 Suburban 1/2 ton 4WD 5.7L.

    Wife was driving home and right before getting to the house it started acting like it was out of gas. Managed to get it home, and it would start for a second but then die. It did this for about 20 minutes, and then wouldn't even start to try.

    Turns over, gets spark. Replaced plugs and fuel filter. Security light is off. If I spray fuel in the intake it runs for just a second but dies. What would be the next step?
  • myburbmyburb Member Posts: 2
    My '07 burb is having same issues....I've complained for months about the "extended crank" which occurs. For months they have said..the truck has to give a code regarding the issue....I dont care about this damn code I HAVE AN ISSUE!!! its BS that they have to wait for the "truck" to diagnose itself

    Its in the shop today for an oil change and again...I'm complaining about the lag time in starting! After reading all these blogs I called the manager back and said I have some suggestions...turns out they have finally figured out why its having issues.....FUEL PUMP MODULE is bad. Thank heavens!! fix the damn thing its irritating me!!! We'll see if this works...now lets just hope extended warranty covers the cost!
  • alanrsalanrs Member Posts: 25
    Sounds ever so much like the fuel pump failed. You may be able to borrow a fuel pressure tester from a local auto parts store to be sure. Likely since you posted your inquiry 6 weeks ago you already have an answer and a solution. Sorry for the late reply.
  • bill4519bill4519 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Z71 Tahoe 4X4 with 151,000 miles. I love it but it's driving me crazy. For the last 6 weeks it just sometimes doesn't start. I get in turn the key and dead silence. All my dash light go on like they should, but nothing. I wait 5 minutes and bingo it starts just fine. It is so hit and miss that it's really frustrating. The dealership replaced the ignition switch, but that didn't help. It will start fine for a week, then one day, nothing. Sometimes it won't start for 10 tries, then on the 11th, it starts. Sometimes nothing for 20 tries then on the 21st it starts. Then it starts for 25 straight times. you never know what you are going to get. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks
  • alanrsalanrs Member Posts: 25
    Just read some of the other threads and posts in this forum, and you'll find several options to investigate towards a solution with your Tahoe.
  • ckm10517ckm10517 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Suburban with $125000 miles. For the past 2 years, I have been dealing with cold start issues, if the truck sits for more than 24 hours. Have it towed to the shop and it will start just fine for them (done this 3-4 times). Replaced the battery last year and it seemed to solve the problem, but it has crept back up again. When the mechanic gets the truck and does not give any codes on the computer. Truck chug, chug, chugs, but won't fire. Happened 2x in the past 3 weeks. Any suggestions?
  • shelbywonshelbywon Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Tahoe 4x4 SUB. I get in turn the key and dead silence. All my dash light is looks OK, but nothing. I tried to start many times then I gave up.
    After 3-4weeks, I tried to start, bingo! it was fine. After 2-3weeks, it won;t start again. I wait 2-3weeks and start it. Sometime it won't start, Then it start again after 2-3weeks. Does anyone have any idea?
    Thanks
  • alanrsalanrs Member Posts: 25
    This sounds so much like a corroded connection to me, that will not pass the major current required by the starter drive. It may also be the starter solenoid. Disconnect the battery first, then clean all of the connections where the large cables meet their destination: Ground to the block, hot wire to the starter. While you are at it, look at the short cable that runs from the starter to the solenoid. That one, which is part of the starter assembly, was frayed and corroded on my Suburban, and the symptoms were the same as yours, except that once it failed, it would not start at all.
  • chevylemonschevylemons Member Posts: 1
    I had similar issues with my suburban. My gut told me that the issue was the fuel pump. My fuel gauge hadn't read the proper fuel level in years and only became worse. The pump was the issue, but not because it was broken. It was manufactured improperly. One of the polished rods was missing a spring. There are two of them. Without both springs, the device will not slide up and down properly and eventually wears out the rod. So much so that the rod with the spring had a visible missing area from the rubbing where it was hanging up">. This is the Chevy way. I wonder how many more of these defective pos's are on the road. I'd like to attach a photo but don't know how. After the replacement of the pump, my fuel gauge works properly and my gas mileage has improved.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited September 2012
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  • blainej1blainej1 Member Posts: 1
    This weekend our 2007 Tahoe wouldn't start. I tried jumping it and nothing happened. I replaced the battery thinking that had to be the problem (it was still the original). Nothing happened, not even the sound of the fuel pump or starter, just a single click. I decided to research and found this site along with another one about no starting problems and found the common thread was the mention of the TSB 07033b and the problem with the BCM. I went to the dealer today and the BCM was indeed replaced ($600 ouch!). We'll see if it resolves the problem long term. It was disappointing to hear that something that is known to cause this problem isn't part of a recall. However if I never have the problem again I'll be happy I found the answer here....thanks
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Keep us posted on whether the replacement of the BCM resolves the starting problems you had been having. We can be reached at socialmedia@gm.com (include your name, contact information, and the last 8 digits of your VIN in the initial communication).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • gmlemon2gmlemon2 Member Posts: 4
    Has your problem been fixed? I have an 08 suburb with same issue. Already replaced the battery. Not interested in playing the "lets fix this, then this, then this game with dealer". I have heard of Neg and/or Pos battery cable being the issue. Today it started acting up. Negative battery cable was very hot to the touch. I don't know if this is normal or not.
  • alanrsalanrs Member Posts: 25
    It is not normal for a cable to get hot, even during repeated attempts to start a vehicle. The starter motor will of course get quite hot with repeated use over a short time interval. Electrically speaking, heat is the result of resistance to flow that is in excess of the carrying capacity of the wire. You can pretty easily see that in automobiles there are cables and wires of many different gauges. Each one is sized to carry a specific amount of electrical current.

    A high amperage cable such as the one used for the main connection between the battery and the block (negative or ground) or between the battery and the starter solenoid (positive) is big for a reason: It has to carry the full power of the battery. On most cars, the starter motor requires a higher flow of current than any other device. Even when the starter is not engaged, electrical current for all other accessories such as headlights, computers, climate control, etc. flows through the cables.

    A hot cable indicates that it is defective. If it is hot at one end, then the indication is for a problem with the connector being corroded or loose, either where it is attached to the cable, or where it attaches to the battery or other part.
  • steveqsteveq Member Posts: 14
    Did the dealer flash your BCM? After having the dealer flash my BCM and installing an OPTIMA yellow-top battery, my Tahoe has not had any problems since. It is unclear whether it was the flashed BCM, the new battery, or both that has actually resolved the problem, but I'm just glad it is finally fixed.
  • gmlemon2gmlemon2 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the information on the cable. The negative and positive cables are as clean and as tight as they can be. To answer the other person no I have not had my BCM flashed by the dealer. After reading other blogs about people spending thousands on this problem with no resolution I am hoping to find out what the problem truly is so I can have it fixed the first time. If I might ask does anyone have an idea what the dealer charges to flash the BCM?
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    gmlemon2,

    If you had wanted for us to check into anything with your dealership (labor rates, even) we'd be happy to do so. Please send your request to us via email at socialmedia@gm.com (also include your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN and mileage, and the name of your preferred dealership).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • steveqsteveq Member Posts: 14
    I don't think there was a charge for flashing the BCM. I think it was part of a recall, but not sure. I would contact your dealer and ask them.
  • gmlemon2gmlemon2 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks Sarah,

    Do you know if GM has issued a recall on this electrical problem.

    On a seperate note, I have the I&L type windshield wipers. I heard there was a bulletin on replacing the I&L type with J-hook. do you know if this is true?

    Thanks
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    You're most welcome!

    We can check your vehicle to see if there are any open recalls on it if you wanted to send us the last 8 digits of your VIN (email again is socialmedia@gm.com).

    As the bulletins are intended for use by our technicians and as we're not technically trained in Customer Service, I am unable to discuss any TSBs at this time unfortunately.

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • gmlemon2gmlemon2 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks Sarah
    I sent my info to email address. New battery dead today. Something is draining it any help is appreciated
  • kingdudleykingdudley Member Posts: 4
    Greetings,

    My ’98 Chevy Tahoe, 223K miles has become slightly difficult to start. I must turn the engine over for two seconds wait three seconds then hit the starter again for two seconds, then it runs and runs like a top. This started in August and occurs independent of heat or humidity. If it has been recently driven it also starts right up. I have replaced the spark plugs, high tension coil, distributer cap and fuel filter resulting in a slight improvement. The fuel pump was replaced by the dealership at 150K miles. Thank you in advance for your guidance.

    Thanks Again,
  • alanrsalanrs Member Posts: 25
    Your truck should have the 5.7L "L31" V-8, with a Central Sequential Fuel Injection system. Here is a basic starting option: Instead of rotating the key to the "Start" spot when you first get into the Tahoe, turn it only to "Run". Wait several seconds while fuel pressure builds in the system, since the fuel pump will be activated until full pressure is achieved. Then, without turning the key off, go ahead and rotate the key into the "Start" detent.

    If the motor starts immediately, what it will tell you is this: There is likely a loss of fuel pressure between the time that the motor is turned off, and you start it again. There may be a very slight leak (even inside the tank at the pump) in a line, or a check valve which is supposed to hold pressure between runs is failing. Unless there is an external leak, it is probably nothing to worry about, and it does not indicate an imminent fuel pump failure. Can you detect the odor of gasoline anywhere around the truck or in the engine compartment? A failing fuel injector system may allow the pressure loss from the fuel rail, and let gas trickle into the engine. If the oil on your dipstick smells strongly like gasoline, that is the likely culprit, and it should be repaired.

    In the old days when the mechanical fuel pump was mounted to the side of engines, a leak could cause gas to quickly fill up the crank-case. The results were not good!

    If it still requires the crank, wait, and crank again method before the engine will start, it just may indicate that the motor has lost some compression, and takes a few extra rotations to build sufficient cylinder pressure for combustion. That does not necessarily mean that the motor is nearing the end of it's life cycle, either. Some wear is always normal, considering how many miles each piston has traveled in its bore through a quarter of a million on the road. Basic calculations lead me to believe that each piston has probably traveled 99,000 miles, moving 3.5 inches up and down with each rotation of the crank!

    A third option which comes to mind is that the fuel injectors are no longer producing as broad or well-atomized spray patterns as they did when they were newer. There are cleaners used through the fuel which can help, but the only real answer might be to service (replace) the injection system, not a task that is lightly undertaken. Note that the CSFI system is fully enclosed inside of the top intake manifold. There are many discussions regarding that system to be found on the 'net, and it would be good reading to further your understanding of how it works and what it looks like. There is at least one Multi-Port Fuel Injection system which can be utilized as a replacement, and there may be benefits in doing that conversion.

    Typically, if the CSFI system is at fault, the engine will not run well at all, and fuel economy will suffer a lot. Still, if the motor runs well, but that system is indeed leaking raw fuel into the crank-case between engine runs, it may be necessary to do something about it. Understand that it will be expensive!

    Good luck! :)
  • purplebeardpurplebeard Member Posts: 1
    Running fine, residential area, turned a corner two blocks from my house, suddenly, the engine had little and deteriorating power. Any gas pedal press only produced limited response. At just a little over idle (10-15 mph, almost like coasting uphill slightly), I made it home and into the garage. Put it into park, could not get any RPM response with a gas pedal press, the attempt caused it to stall and quit. Let it sit for a little while, can start but will only idle with trouble, will stall out if I press the gas pedal. This was a very sudden condition, never happened before (only owned it for 3 months, ran very well so far) The fuel pump has been loud since I bought it. The engine is a Vortec 5300. I've already replaced 2 fuel pumps in the last year (Both in tank of a 99 Ford Windstar and a 98 olds 88). I probably can handle it but would appreciate any suggestions before I undertake this project if anyone suspects a different cause to my loss of power or if I can pretty much have confidence that the fuel pump is indeed kaput. Thanks
  • alanrsalanrs Member Posts: 25
    Certainly sounds like the pump to me. To confirm it, see if your local auto parts store lends tools (some do in my area) and use a fuel pressure tester.
    When the pump failed on my Suburban, I had just left a business, headed for a freeway. The truck was stumbling and would not accelerate on the entrance ramp. I managed about two miles @ 50mph, and there was no power for acceleration. When I got off at the next exit, the engine quit while I coasted around the curve. As yours, it would sometimes restart but not run. The pump was it, and the replacement job is a BEAR!

    Regarding what to look out for during the pump change: You might want to scan the "Chevrolet Suburban and Tahoe No Start Problems" and the "Chevy Suburban/Tahoe Rough Idle and Stalling" discussions. I know I posted the procedure I used somewhere in this forum, but can't find it right now. One partipant listed what he did, post #347 in the "No Start" thread. Because it was cold when I did the pump, and because it was old, I had to cut the large diameter filler hose which connects directly to the tank to get it off more easily. Be forewarned: Although less than 18" long, that hose is $150!!! :mad:
  • nomorexcusesgmnomorexcusesgm Member Posts: 1
    We have a 2007 Tahoe with same problems. went to dealership while under warranty...even called factory GMC and gave me the runaround. Bottom line was the dealer we purchased from put in their own security anti-theft device and many times when going out to start would do nothing. We went to dealership after the 2008 economic melt down and our current administration closing all these dealerships including the one we purchased ours from ...and leaving us with little recourse because we were told the buying dealer has to take it off...and any other dealer (we took ours to 3) wanted $925) to remove it. We found a company Allied Dealer Services in SAn Juan Capistrano, Ca 949-234-1900 if you're in this area and a guy named Mark Jones came out and removed it for $60.00. The factory told us if a secondary device was installed it would be in our paperwork NOT!!!! and acted like I was lying to them. All of them just a bunch of crooks trying to take your money.
    No problems for two years

    Then yesterday pulled it out of the garage and went ot start it again and nothing dead again...called Triple A they came out tested the battery, had Allied out to test the fuses and other components and he found nothing accept back door windows don't open, engine is dead won't turn over, door locks won't work and lights won't work. Someone told us ot disconnect the battery...THAT DOES NOT WORK AND MAKES IT WORSE. Now no headlights and car is really dead...nothing works.

    Finally had it towed to Allen Cadillac and I am told it is the BCM module for $700 I can have it repaired.

    Really crappy deal you have to have the GM Computer Machinery to fix a car as it is all computerized...used to be able to buy a part and replace it yourself.

    I think they want you to have to pay them to fix everything...and then charge you hundreds of dollars for labor. For instance you can buy this part for $243.00 but they are charging over $500 for labor that probably takes less than a half hour to fix. Even under the warranty manual repair the rate they get paid to replace the BCM is probably a lot less than what they are charging me now.

    So I asked the dealer today....shouldn't this be covered under warranty since this car has been brought in for this problem since it was new? They said well it's out of warranty now and we can't do anything for you....ot call the factory and ask them...maybe they will reimburse you.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Hello nomorexcusesgm,

    I'm sorry that you're having this issue with your vehicle. However, I would like to look into your concern. Can you please email your issue with the Tahoe to socialmedia@gm.com (attn: Marlea)? I look forward to your response and assisting you.

    Marlea W.
    GM Customer Service
  • dapconsultdapconsult Member Posts: 1
    I have a similar situation with my 2005 Tahoe. While the car was locked, my daughter tried to open the passenger side door. This caused the alarm to go off. It quit on its own after several minutes. The next morning the car wouldn't start. The horn was strong. Lights bright. Radio worked but would not crank. I noticed a clicking sound coming from the rear side passenger's door. I opened and closed the rear passenger's door and it cranked right up. Anytime it wouldn't crank, I would repeat the open/close door solution and it worked. It is December 2, 2013 and I have not had the problem since June 22, 2013. I remember the date because it was my wedding day and the sucker wouldn't crank! I left it and after the wedding, it cranked. The problem is back. The clicking noise is now located in the front passenger side door. Opening the passenger front door and leaving it open during start up works half the time. If you try and open a locked door, the speed odometer pegs all the way to the right, and for certain the car will NOT crank. I believe it definitely has to do with the security system. Also, it I let the gas fall below a quarter of a tank, the gas gauge and speedo both quit working, and I can expect a no start within days if not hours.
  • spritemanspriteman Member Posts: 25
    edited December 2013
    It sounds like your Anti-Theft Forced Entry circuit is having a melt down. There are switches in all doors and windows that look for the latch to open without the key or fob which causes the alarm to sound. After a while the system times out and it resets the alarm and allows the car to start.

    Here are two things to try - when the problem arises again, use your key fob to lock / unlock the doors - that should reset the security system and allow the truck to start.

    Another option would be to just pull the Anti-Theft fuse labeled TPC Batt 10 Amp in the under hood fuse block. See if that allows your truck to start.

    To reset your gauge cluster you can try removing the -NEG Battery cable from the battery - allow it to remain off of the vehicle for 30 mins and then replace the cable. Turn your key to the ON position (not start) for 3 mins which allows the PCM to reset.

    PS Before you pull the -NEG Batt cable turn your radio and climate control off. Also you might want to make sure that you have your radio security code before you pull the cable because in some cases this causes the radio to go into a lock-out mode which will require the code to unlock this mode.
  • oceaneyes69oceaneyes69 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Chevy Tahoe LT 3, I've tried new batteries; the alternator, & starter all check good. however truck keeps dying and leaving me stranded! I've replaced the battery, yet the same exact thing happens. dealership is 3 rd garage to have it they had now for two weeks!!! everything checks fine after it's been jumped off, But within 24 hours dead again! electrical sleep modes cheI have a 2004 Chevy Tahoe LT 3, new batteries, alternator, starter all check good. however truck keeps dying and leaving me stranded! I've replaced the battery, same exact thing happens. dealership is 3 rd garage to have it they have had it now for two weeks!!! everything checks fine after it's been jumped off, But within 24 hours dead again! electrical sleep modes checked, checking normal that goes nothing staying on vehicle shut down causing battery drain! ? Someone please help. but just turned 100,000 miles phenomenal ride. need figure out what could be this non start drain issue. thanks ANY help!!
  • crickette0435crickette0435 Member Posts: 1
    My 99 Chevy suburban stalls when I turn on my a/c. From time to time it takes a while to turn over. The other day I was getting on the freeway and it stalled and I have not been able to get it started since then. The fuel pump is engaging, I changed the spark plugs and the fuel filter. Now I am being told that it is most likely the crank position sensor or the fuel pressure regulator. I am stumped
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