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Comments
Seems I can buy an extended warranty, if I wish - but not for the sensors! ECU covered to 80K too.
So, I'll get this fixed, but I really should learn how to check/change the sensors myself, I suspect - if anyone can recommend an OBD II that they've successively used on a 2.5 engine, I'd love to hear it. And maybe a shop manual - ?Edmunds? - Any thoughts? Thanks.
I find Haynes manuals very helpful for maintenance, even very in-depth maintenance, but I am not sure if one is available for a Subaru as new as 2005. Looking on Amazon, there is one for Legacy/Forester 200-2006. Wow; quite a range! I imagine it is good for most of the basic stuff.
So it's not universal but it has worked on many cars and is so cheap that it pays for itself on the 2nd use.
Mine is the 9135, which I bought at NAPA:
It wouldn't hurt to check all the electrical connections under the hood. Unplug any connection you can find and re-plug them to possibly re-seat the electrical contacts that may have become corroded or tarnished.
:surprise:
-mike
Some Advance Auto Parts stores let you borrow them.
You can buy one for $100 or less. I bought one.
Dealers charge around $80 to scan a single code some times.
-mike
I'd still get a scanner. They're quite useful.
on the H6 the Timing chain doesn't need replacement.
-mike
I can relate. I had the timing belt changed on my Miata, as well as the water pump, and I swear they retarded the timing because I feel like I've lost 10 horsepower.
-mike
http://www.ozliberty.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3042
Check engine light on - P0030 code (bank one upstream A/F ratio sensor heater circuit)
Also $1200 to replace the injectors is significantly higher than you should be paying. Let me look up the price of the injectors and we can go from there...
The injectors are about $125/each and shouldn't take more than 2-3hrs to install for a competent mechanic. So even if they did all 4 we are talking $800, maybe. But like I said, you should only have to do the one that is a problem.
As for all that other stuff leading up to the injector issue, some was regular maintenance, some was extranious. I've never seen a fuel pump go bad, if it were internally shorted it simply would not have worked.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
-mike
Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
I NEVER fail to tighten the gas-cap and I am especially aware of that now. I suspect that the problem is caused either by the change in temperature or the change in altitude (pressure). I always buy gas at the half-way point between the two homes.
I had a Forester with the same problem and then I had a Baja that never flashed a CEL.... ever.
Comments? Ideas?
Would Subaru have a fix for this? One mechanic said it needs a new computer, about $1500. Another said it has nothing to do with the computer or catalytic converter. Any ideas?
Also, it would alleviate the issue of occasional codes causing a fail when having the test performed.
I am not aware of regulations related to resetting codes prior to getting an emissions test, but it is your car. As far as I am concerned, if the codes had an effect on the emissions coming out of the tailpipe, the car would not pass the test anyway and then you would have a legitimate reason to pursue repair. If it passes, the code was irrelevant. If the state has a problem with that, they are welcome to provide me with a car (and therefore have a say in its ownership) or kiss my.... cheek.
I don't have an O'Reilly in my part of California. Anyone else know of somewhere they do this. Like a Kragan or Pep Boys?
Since this seems to be a common problem, what does Subaru say about this?
Of course, now that I have the scanner.... the car might just fix itself to spite me. :mad:
I found the OBD2, 16 pin connector. Subaru "hides" it in plain sight. I was looking for some kind of hatch-cover but it's just THERE, next to the hood latch. I read somewhere that there are connectors that must be connected to put the car into test-mode. The connectors are supposed to be around the glove-box.
True? Where do I find those? :confuse:
I didn't need to find any connectors for any of the cars I've scanned. You just plug-and-play. Read the instructions to find out where to put the ignition switch and when.