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Toyota Celica Engine Problems

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Comments

  • jhottjhott Posts: 1
    Hey I bought my celica with 52k on it about 3 yrs ago. I have always put in fuel injection cleaner to clear up the sputtering about every 4 to 5 mths. It always clears it up until now.. Should I go to have the injectors cleaned with the machine they have or is that gonna be a waste of money? It needs a tune up anyway plus I have had the wonderful 0240 code since I bought it. I put so much into it and just gave up trying to figure it out. I dont think they are related but ive already had a bunch of stuff replaced, o2s cat was fine at the time had it checked. Any ideas let me know.
    JG
  • dalicea97dalicea97 Posts: 15
    JG I read your posting in reference to you getting a fuel injector cleaner every 4 to 5 months. You might want to to use premium gas instead of regular cause I only use premium gas to prevent the sputtering. I know the premium gas is more expensive but try it. Let know how it works for you. DA
  • Check gas; gas pump may be bad.
  • Thanks for the info, as it turned out the new distributor cap that I installed had resistance in the coil lead that would still give me a spark indication but not strong enough to fire the plug under compression.The new cap only had 300 miles on it. Thanks again for everyones input. Don
  • Sorry for th elack of info but this is my first dealing with a Celica. I bought my son a 97, with the 1.8 Lt engine. Here is the problem. When the engine is started, it is running very rough, shaken just sounds bad. When I adjust the throttle body up to around 2500 rpm, the engine smooths out and sounds great, let the throttle body back to idle, it goes back to rough. I bought parts, plugs, new wires, distributor cap, and rotor. Any ideals to look at before I put in the new parts? Looking forward to many replays!
    Thanks
    Butch
  • Butch,

    I had a similar problem with my 2000 Celica. It turned out to be clogged fuel injectors. My car also made a popping sound wile I was accelerating until I got over 1000 rpm. Ultimately had to have a mechanic clean the injectors. That was a year age, and it's back to sputtering. I did see a prior post about using a higher grade of gas. hope that helps.
  • shifty017shifty017 Posts: 6
    I Have a 2000 Toyota Celica GTS, I had it running the other day and took the oil filler cap off and noticed it was blowing air not sucking still blew air even when i reved it, is it normal or is someing wrong?
  • valkyrie1valkyrie1 Posts: 1
    dalicea97-I am actually writing to find out what fixed your starting problem with your Celica back in 2008, I had been following your story. A friend of mine also has a 94 Celica with same issue and her car has been in shop for over a month.
    they have change multiple parts with no success. I would appreciate any input.
  • snoman65snoman65 Posts: 3
    My problem turned out to be a bad distributor cap. The cap was only a week old but had to much resistance in the coil lead that is built into the cap. When testing I would get current flow but just to weak to fire. Hope this helps, just shows that new parts aren't always good. Don
  • jmelee11jmelee11 Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 Toyota Celica GT that quit running while I was driving down the highway. I think everything just shut down. Tried putting more gas, no help. Jumping it worked once, but the car shut down again a few hundred feet down the road. Jumping it again didn't work. Would prior transmission problems have anything to do with engine failure, or are there other problems that can occur with Toyota Celicas?
  • My Celica started sputtering when I accelerate recently, and the check engine light came on, and it turns out I have a misfire in my first cylinder, I discovered that there was liquid in my first cylinder which was causing the misfire. My mechanic told me the leak was due to my ignition coil, So I replaced it with a brand new ignition coil. A couple days later my car started sputtering when I accelerate again and it will hesitate for 2-3 seconds before finally accelerating normally. The difference is this time my check engine light isn't coming on, therefore it's not throwing any codes. So I take a look in my 1st cylinder again to discover that there is more liquid in my cylinder! This is after the brand new coil...Now I'm at a loss, my car is sputtering, and pinpointing this problem without a check engine code is seemingly impossible....Need a resolution!
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 5,893
    By liquid, do you mean water? Could be a head gasket leaking coolant into a cylinder. Are you getting any white smoke from the exhaust? That would be a sign I would watch for.

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  • My mechanic said that it's water possibly from rain. But the 3 days that passed after the new coil was put in there was no rain and I didn't wash my car, so there would be no reason for rain water to be there. To me it smells like coolant, And there is no white smoke coming out of my exhaust.
  • While driving home my celica just suddenly died and has been for about 2 months now. It wont start, all it does is the cranking sound as always. Im not a car guy so i just ask my brother about it. He says it was the ignition coil but i replaced that and it wasnt the problem, also there is an oil leak in one of the spark plug cylnders as well, which might be the problem. my dad says it might be something electrical. please help me
  • I have a 1996 Toyota Celica that had the same problems a couple of years ago, it turned out to be the timing belt. That's a possibility.
  • 2002 GTS with 205K miles had code P0171 .

    MAF resistance measured OK. Clean it with carburator cleaner, did not help.

    Swapped in a MAF sensor form another car. Cleared all codes. Pass smog test. Car runs smooth and powerful again.
  • peterpan99peterpan99 Posts: 65
    edited May 2013
    Could be a faulty spark plugs connector or wire. There is no spark or only weak sparks, fuel is not burned completely, leaving wet residue.

    Swap the wet connector to another plug. If the new plug is wet and the old plug is dry, then connector is faulty. Replace the old connector.

    If the same plug remains wet, then the cam head may have leaks which could leak coolant into the cylinder, killing the spark.

    In this case, unless you find and fix the root cause the engine to overheat and crack in the first place, the engine will crack again in different places.

    If you dont know what cause the over heat may be better to swap out the engine with a known-good reman or refurbed used engine

    Check all rubber vacuum hoses. They are usually black rubber quarter inch diameter. If they are not plugged in or are leaky, that would cause the engine to hesitate.

    Good luck
  • peterpan99peterpan99 Posts: 65
    edited August 2013
    2002 Celica GTS has 200K miles on it. The engine had a small oil leak in the back of the oil pan, like less 1 quart every 15K mile. I use WALMART's synthetic 0-30 oil every 15K miles and the oil never got lower than minimum each time. So it's just small leak onto the plastic bottom covers, then a small oily spot on the floor.

    Removed all 16 bolts, took the oil pan out, scrape both surfaces of RTV flexible gasket, then cleaned with Acetone to get rid of any oil residue.

    Squeezed Toyota black RTV flexible gasket on the surface of the pan and carefully assembled back to the engine. Oil still leaked. Suspected not enough RTV was used, so removed the pan and redo the RTV flexible gasket again. STILL LEAK but SMALLER LEAK this time.

    Cleaned the engine block with degreaser and high pressure water spray at a car wash. Put the car on block, got underneath and carefully looked at the back side of the engine. The oil pan's seal looked good. Lots of RTV squeezed out of the mating surfaces.

    Looks like the leak came from from the top valve cover gasket, dripping down to the belt tensioner strut. So I tightened all 10 mm bolts around the valve cover top.

    There is also the stainless -steel power steering line, bolted onto the engine block with a single 14 mm bolt. The bolts looked wet with oil but not sure if there is engine oil behind it that could leak. But tighten it anyway.

    That stopped the leak. The engine is now dry. I wished I had cleaned the engine block and look at it carefully to find the leaks before doing all the hard work, removing the oil pan etc...
  • Hi, I am currently swapping the engine on my car and it is almost ready to be pulled out but it seems to be that the wiring that goes right under the EFI head is in there pretty well. I have de attached all little clips from the engine. These are the only thing stopping me. Is there any way to de attach the wiring from both sides and is it safe for me to do so? This is my first engine swap on my toyota. Please help.
  • Did you get a resolve on this problem? We have similar issue w/ our '94 celica.
    List of parts replaced: battery, alternator, radiator, distributor, spark plugs and cables, fuel pump/filter, coolant sensor and removed the security system.
    Still quits running randomly. Won't re-start for days to weeks, but will start and run, then randomly stop again. Been doing this for last 9 months...very frustrating.
    Anybody with any ideas? All input appreciated.
  • Did you scan the engine? What failure codes show up?

    Anyone trying to troubleshoot or fix cars should buy an engine scanner cheap like $20 in eBay. Then at least you have some ideas what failures are and possible root cause.

    If the engine just die instantly and totally, fuel starving is very likely. Check and make sure the fuel pump is working and the wiring has signals to the pump.

    Take the 4 plugs out. Hook them into the plug connectors and crank the engine. All 4 plugs should give sparks. If there are glitches in the electrical system,then engine would run rough but would not die totally.

    Good luck
  • Could be any of the smaller vacuum hoses not plugged in or leaking.

    Check all those quarter-inch vacuum hoses.
  • Found out MAF should be cleaned only with contact cleaner or any MAF cleaner that leaves no residue.

    Carburetor cleaner and WD-40 all leave lubricants which screw up the sensor reading.
  • Hi everyone. So I've had a 96 Toyota Celica St for about three years now and almost any problem I've had, I could fix but this one is puzzling. So here's the story, About three weeks ago, while I was driving home from work, i huge tractor trailer went by me on the highway and the wind caused my hood to fly up and bend at the middle. I pulled over and while I was trying to fix the problem, a guy pulled over and said all I had to do was tie the hood down until I got home, he said he had some rope and we tied my hood down. Then, I get out on the highway and my Ignition sticks. So my car is constantly gaining speed and I'm breaking the speed limit by 100, so I pulled over, slammed on the brakes as hard as I could and when It wouldn't stop, I had to shut my car off. The result was a loud pop and exhaust pouring out the front. I fixed the hood and got it back home. Now the big problem: for the past week my car has only started when it was hot enough outside but when it's cold in the morning the car acts like it' starting but never does. Today, after I thought it was the distributor cap and button, I bought a new set, installed the parts and as I'm driving down the road, I noticed while it was idle, the engine would shake, like it's about to shut off. The RPM's don't move or anything and the check engine light is on. Does anyone have any ideas?
  • Hi I am currently experiencing trouble with my car which includes it idling at low RPMS and dying out. I tried resetting my ECU but I don't know if that worked. I reset because I put an aftermarket air filter and a brand new mass airflow sensor. The codes I am throwing include intake air temp. signal, the airflow meter sensor, and the switch signal code. Does anyone have any idea if this problem is one thing or individual things that need to be fixed?
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