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Hyundai Veracruz Lights and Headlights
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Comments
I have not had anyone flash their brights at me. The only remaining complaint I have is that the low beams have a distinct horizontal cutoff that makes it difficult to read road signs at medium and close distances. I understand this is a common problem with projector beams.
I would NOT get a dimmer bulb. In fact, I'm waiting for Sylvannia to come out with H11 SilverStar bulbs (they don't make them yet) so I can replace the low beams and make them BRIGHTER. H7 bulbs go in the high beams.
Good luck! You'll love your car!
I have a pair in my 07, and they are excellent. Worth every penny.
Larry
There are two separate sets of headlight aiming controls on the Hyundai Veracruz. One set is over top the headlight assembly, and is accessible through small holes near the very front of the top of the engine compartment. They are labeled U-D and L-R. These adjustments control the entire headlight assembly unit, so they aim both the high beams and low beams all at once. One control adjusts the up/down aim, and the other one adjusts the left/right aim. The Hyundai mechanics only know how to adjust these controls.
The trick is to use this set of controls first to aim the high beams properly, which is dead straight ahead. When you complete this step, the low beams will point downwards at a ridiculous angle.
The second set of controls is located inside the engine compartment behind the headlight assembly unit. There are two larger white nylon collars, and two smaller white nylon collars. The collars look like hex key fittings, but they are not - they are just protective sleeves. Slip a short, stubby Phillips screwdriver through the upper large white nylon sleeve, and when it engages the bolt inside, you are now able to adjust ONLY the low beam up/down aim by turning the bolt. The left (driver's side) low beam headlight is easy to aim, but the right side is tricky because there are electronic devices too close to the headlight assembly to let you reach your hand down there. You need to use a ratchet wrench equipped with a Phillips screwdriver head, or a flex-shaft screwdriver to reach the right side low beam aiming control.
To aim the headlights, turn on both the high and low beams, and shine the headlights onto a white surface, such as a garage door. Adjust the high and low beams together, using the top controls as described above, so that the high beams point exactly straight ahead with no upward or downward angle. Next, adjust the low beams, using the controls inside the engine compartment, so that there is NO black line between the low and high beam cut-offs, and so that there is a small amount of overlap between the low and high beams (not too much, or your low beams will aim too high).
That’s it - you’re done. The whole process takes 10 minutes. The improvement is phenomenal - incredible!
It is mind boggling that the morons at Hyundai don't know how to do this.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I'm just waiting for Sylvannia Silver Star H11 bulbs to be released this fall to replace the low beams. The manual and everything online says they're H7s, but they are NOT (at least on the 2007). Just in case, it wouldn't help for Veracruz owners to email them (Customer.Service@sylvania.com) asking about their release.
Steve
My CarSpace
I believe the same tool will adjust the low beam up/down without going through the center of the white nylon piece. I noticed that there is a small black funnel on each side that probably guides the tool down to the "gears" that move the low beam up or down, but going through the white nylon piece easily works on the driver side. Using the tool through the funnel on the passenger side will be easier than getting the screwdriver into the white nylon piece. What do you think?
Did the Hyundai mechanic have a special tool to adjust the L/R, U/D screws on the top?
Konacq
Can the housing be re-installed after the high/low beams have been independently adjusted to eliminate the gap? Or would that bring the gap back again.
And... I suppose no one has found an improvement/adjustment in the 2008 model headlights.
conr2286
No, putting the housing back in will NOT force the aiming back to its old position.
If you do re-install the housing, then the housing will lock-in the relative high-low beam headlight aiming that you had set at that point. In other words, after you put the housing back in, when you adjust the high beam aim up or down, the low beam will also adjust correspondingly, and vice versa. Presumably this is not a bad thing.
I speculate that the housing is there to support motorized headlight aiming, the way upscale cars are built in Europe. It makes sense that all you have to do is attach a drive motor to the housing, and you can remotely adjust the headlights up or down using a switch inside the car. Upscale european cars have this so you can adjust the headlight aiming based on the weight loading of the car, so that if the rear end is loaded down, and the headlights are now pointing too high, you can lower them manually.
If someone can tell me how to post a picture on this forum I can show you what the housing looks like.">
Steve
NOTE - I am not a mechanic - so use this entirely at your own risk.
1. Aim your headlights (with the housing attached) so that the LEFT low beam is at the desired position, and the RIGHT high beam is at the desired position. You will need to calibrate the headlights this way so that you have a proper reference to aim the headlights later. You can aim both high and low beams at once using a short #2 Phillips screw driver on either the high beam or low beam adjustment screws.
2. Locate the driver side headlight assembly inside the engine compartment. At the back of that assembly, you will see a black housing with four white holes aligned in a vertical pattern. This is the low beam part of the housing that you will remove.
3. Use a #1 or #2 Phillips screw driver to remove the 5 screws on the perimeter of the housing that fasten the housing to the headlight assembly unit. When you remove all five screws, the housing will come loose, but will not pull away, because there is a shaft at one end of the housing that is still connected to the headlight assembly unit. You can now pull the housing free, and twist it so it is out of the way, but DO NOT force, bend, pull, dislodge, or break the shaft.
4. Trace the shaft to the other end, and you will find a smaller housing, which is the high beam part of the housing. Use a Phillips screw drive to remove three screws from this part of the housing. One of the screws will be hidden from view, and you must feel for it with your finger, but all screws are easily accessible.
5. When all 8 screws are removed (5 from the low beam housing and 3 from the high beam housing), pull the housing away entirely, and store it with its screws for safe keeping.
6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (but do not start the engine) and use a #2 or #3 Phillips screw driver to adjust the LEFT high beam headlight to match the RIGHT high beam headlight, which you calibrated in step 1.
7. Turn the ignition switch to OFF.
Note: The passenger side headlight assembly is not accessible, because there are things blocking it. You must remove these first.
8. Remove the screw holding the upper neck of the windshield washer reservoir. Pull the neck off the reservoir, and safely stow the reservoir neck and screw for later retrieval.
9. Unlock and then unplug both connectors from the Anti-Lock Braking System (ABS) module. Use a long piece of electrical tape to loosely fasten the connectors upwards to the engine hood strut so that the connectors to do not fall into the engine compartment and get dirty or damaged.
10. Using a ratchet wrench with an extension shaft, remove the three bolts that fasten the ABS mounting bracket to the body of the car. These three bolts are at the bottom of the bracket. Safely stow away the bolts for later recovery.
11. The ABS module and mounting bracket are still connected to the car frame with a nylon tie – you do not need to remove this tie. Carefully lift out and twist the ABS module out of the way so that you can now access the headlight assembly.
12. Repeat steps 3 thru 5 for the passenger side headlight assembly unit.
13. Turn the ignition switch to ON (but do not start the engine) and use a #2 or #3 Phillips screw driver to adjust the RIGHT low beam headlight to match the LEFT low beam headlight, which you calibrated in step 1.
14. Turn the ignition switch to OFF.
15. Re-seat the ABS module in place, and use the ratchet wrench to secure it using the 3 bolts you removed in step 10.
16. Remove the tape from the ABS connectors, and firmly re-seat and re-lock the connectors onto the ABS module.
17. Re-seat the windshield reservoir neck in place, and use the screw you removed in step 8 to secure it in place.
Note: When you turned the ignition switch to the ON position in step 13, the main computer sensed the ABS module was disconnected. Even though the ABS is now connected and working, the computer will activate the engine trouble light since it has historical data showing the failure of a critical system.
18. Disconnect the main car battery, wait for about 5 minutes, and then reconnect it. This will reset the main computer so the engine trouble light will not come on.
19. Test drive the car to ensure: (1) proper headlight aiming; and (2) proper ABS functionality.
Note: Once the housings are removed, you do not need to remove the ABS module to aim the headlights. You can use a flex shaft screw driver, or someone with small hands, to access the low beam aiming screw.
Maybe someone will start a class action suit????? I love my VC, but when driving on a dark wet night on a dark highway, it's a gamble, better hope the road is straight!!!!
You have to remove the 8 screws on the transmission and then you can adjust them indiviudually. Pull the transmission unit out and then adjust with the phillips screws still there. This is the only way to adjust low and high beams individually.
When adjusted they are fabulous!
Thanks