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Comments
If all you get is cold air from the heater, would setting the AC to 72 enable warm air to enter the cabin from the AC ducts?
I'm about go run the diagnostic test which I hope will give me more life on the actuator. It's already gone to "all cold air" after giving me the clicking and tapping as it tried to close/open these past few days. Otherwise it's time to dig up about $800 or so and get her to the dealership. My fear is that will all the bolts and screws that are involved I'll end up with a good actuator and multiple rattles & squeaks that have nothing to do with the original problem.
Ken
I'm making headway and think it is the temperature control module which is a bit difficult to do but likely to be the problem for me & only costs $50. The blower motor runs perfect when running a wire to it and I can actually get the blower going by wiggling the wires on the back of the module. Some great advice and tips on www.lincolnsonline.com with diagrams and lots of people with previous similar issues.
Good luck
Ken
In AM, I just seclect auto w thermostat set for 60 (lowest setting) and recirculate off. It cools just fine and when I engage recirc it will get even colder. The Problem is, in afternoon after car has set in the Sun all day, It dosen't seem to matter what I select it just takes too long to really cool. 'Ive tried auto, 60 (coldest setting), w/o recirc off ---Manual, dash vents only, 60, and recirc on, but seems no matter which combination of settings I select it just takes too long when the outside temp is above 95. Any thoughts, anyone?
it rides a lot better. I've tried turning off the air suspension for comparison but it doesn't seem to make any noticeable difference. Any thoughts anyone?
I have a 2001 Lincoln Town Car. The #6 15 amp fuse keeps blowing. It runs the EATC and it's pretty cold in Illinois in the morning..lol. Any ideas if there is a short or a bad relay. If I turn the key to power the car (not starting, just to get power) it works without blowing. As soon as I turn start the car up it blows right away.
And suggestions?
Thanks,
Al
This new technology provides a small coil for every plug, located on top of it. They must be removed first, to get to the plug. Very efficient, no leakage of voltage from wires, no radio interference. More expensive though, and harder to tune up. How many miles do you have on the car? The plugs will last an easy 100,000 miles.
I'm a fair mechanic, and I wouldn't even try to do it.
http://www.p71interceptor.com/valvecovers/removereinstall/rh/
http://www.p71interceptor.com/valvecovers/removereinstall/lh/
The compressor won't work if there's a blown fuse, electrical short or open, not enough freon in the system or if the AC computer is somehow not working.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1356151&parttype=6557- -
I went online and read many forums, including this one, and most of the answers relating to this problem involved checking or replacing the blend door actuator, or a blower motor resistor. I never heard any clicking noise under the dash that's normally heard if one goes bad. I looked at my Haynes manual, but it didn't give much info. I found videos on you tube to give me ideas where to start.
One video showed the removal and replacement of the actuator just behind the glove compartment of a Ford Explorer, so I removed the glove box in my Lincoln. I didn't find the actuator per say, thinking I was going to have to remove the dashboard to find it.
What I found was that my glove compartment was overflowing with junk such as napkins, service invoices, etc. The main problems was all the small garbage bags that we kept in there for long trips. With the glove box so full, the paper and plastic bags went over the back wall of the glove box and got sucked into what I assume is the cabin air filter. It's a foam door that opens up when the a/c is on, and was totally blocked with junk.
I was almost ready to go to the auto parts store and spend some money prior to finding this. I cleared all the junk out and now keep a very minimum of necessities in the glove box and the air flow is fine.
I know I was lucky and that most people genuinely have something wrong with their a/c, but by unhooking the straps that keep the glove box from falling to the floor and looking behind it saved me money and a lot of time.
Once in awhile, it can be a very subtle thing that can cause so much trouble, with a very easy solution.
I have a 1996 Town car. I have the same problem w/the blender/actuator door leaking on the passenger floor and NO HEAT. I LIVE IN BLIZZARD TERRITORY. After almost 2 years, PLEASE tell me you now know how to get the dash out? My mechanic is starting to put the screws back in and giving up. LOL :sick: I'M having so much trouble w/this. My mechanic DIED in the middle of repairing it. My 2nd mechanic's father died. We buried him this past Tuesday. HELP