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Lincoln Town Car Heating / Cooling

2

Comments

  • nwraaanwraaa Member Posts: 177
    Regarding the temperature change, the internal temperature sensor may not be functioning properly. I don't understand why you would be feeling moist air. Do you smell antifreez when this happens?
  • lmh53lmh53 Member Posts: 1
    When the interior temp comes close to the exterior while in A/C, my blower fluctuates significantly until it shuts down. My dealer found issues with the baffle doors and replaced those, but the problem with the fluctuation persists. They tested another 2007 on their lot and it had the same problem. It doesn't affect the performance of the car but is incredibly annoying. I purchased the car in August of '08 and and it took me nearly a year with multiple visits to the dealer to get the problem to reproduce. They claim to be investigating but I have heard nothing. It doesn't seem right that this luxury car should have this kind of problem with no fix. Any thoughts?
  • stinkylinkystinkylinky Member Posts: 8
    well this will be the first of what im sure will be many posts. lincoln lover here, have had a 79 townecoupe, 89 town car and now i went with a 95 town car 130 K miles, my cooling question has to do with the unit blowing nice and hard, but only hot air, could still hear the compressor engaging but only blowing hot air, real hot, and today went underneath and couldnt hear the compressor engage anymore. i live in houston, and needless to say no A/C pretty much sucks. i've read that its the blend door actuator, so my question is if anyone has the ford part number for that part? and if that person feels that it truly could be that issue. thanks in advance for any help.
  • largelouislargelouis Member Posts: 5
    i have a 1998 town car that is'nt blowing any hot air, ther are no leaks, no thermostat problems, and the heater core is ok. the heater would flucuate for a time between hot and cold, but now i get all cold air. i heard some grinding noise under the dash for awhile that sounded like the system trying to open or close some vents, but that noise has disappeared along with the heat. the control head i replaced this summer when i was'nt getting any a/c, but that was'nt the problem. it was a valve under the dash that was faulty, and cost me $800 to replace, i don't have the money for another repair like that. HELP SOMEONE!!!!!
  • nwraaanwraaa Member Posts: 177
    It is the same problem. The blend door actuator is stuck in the A/C position. It is a $49.00 part that requires that the dash to be removed to be installed. The labor is about $95.00 per hour. Take the car back to the same folks that repaired it before and see if they had some kind of warranty when they did the previous install.
  • largelouislargelouis Member Posts: 5
    is there anywhere i can get a schematic on the actuator door location? i'm asking this because, if i don't get any help from the dealer who did the previous install, i'll try and do it myself. hoping i don't have to buy a repair manual to the job. any suggestions??
  • 1way_john14_61way_john14_6 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1995 Town Car that needs a new blender door actuator. In order to replace it the dash needs to be removed. Does anyone know how to remove the dash? I have got it part way loose but it seems stuck/fastened at the lower sides and also to the vent system. I have already removed the 4 screws up by the windshield. If someone has a breakdown as to how to remove the dash, it would be most helpful.
  • 1way_john14_61way_john14_6 Member Posts: 2
    I went to the local dealer's parts counter and asked to see the location, cost and availability of part. He showed me the part in relationship to other items in the nearby location on his computer screen, very helpful.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Member Posts: 3,425
    In respect of your opinions I'm asking for your input on this question.

    If all you get is cold air from the heater, would setting the AC to 72 enable warm air to enter the cabin from the AC ducts?
  • nwraaanwraaa Member Posts: 177
    Euphonium, On that model Town Car, when the blend door actuator jams, it makes no difference where you set the Automaic Temperature Control (ATC). (The brand new actuators jam too sometimes.) For some reason, it does not fail middle way. It fails in the all hot or all cold position. In the winter, it seems that it fails in the cold position and in the summer, you got it, it fails in the heat position. The system on your Town Car is not the same. The Town Car that you have is mostly vaccuum operated. As long as the control unit on the hot hose at the fire wall on your car is okay and the ATC is working properly you should not have the blend door actuator problem. It seemed to be a good idea to design the blend door system that way, but the actuator is not robust enough handle the constant back and forth movement required to make the system work automatically. An indication that the unit is getting ready to fail is a constant clicking under the dash that sounds similar to an activated turn signal. It is a time consuming, laborous job to replace/install the unit. You have to take the front panel off, drop the steering wheel, move the dashboard, etc. I have not seen a post which indicates that the actuator can be replaced without moving the dashbord.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Member Posts: 3,425
    Thank you for your perceptive reply as your sharing of knowledge on these postings is much appreciated by all, I'm sure. :)
  • largelouislargelouis Member Posts: 5
    i had the blend door acuator replaced in april of this year because i was'nt getting any cold air when i put the a/c on, now i get cold air when i need the hot air. the dealer told me it was a different acuator door thats bad , the question i have is, am i being told a b.s. story? are there 2 diiferent acuator doors for the same job?
  • nwraaanwraaa Member Posts: 177
    The blend door actuator controls the A/C Air Temperature Control Door. The car also has a Heater and A/C Air Inlet Duct Door, Heater Air Damper Door, and a Windshield Defroster Door. The only door the I have had problems with, like you have described with your car, is the door that is controlled by the blend door actuator. I have had this same problem on several Town Cars. When trying to chase this gremlin, I checked the other doors with a vacuum pump. The dealer should do the same. These doors are conrolled with air motors and I have never had a problem with them. So yes, there are other doors in the A/C system. Since you had a major recent repair performed by this dealer on the A/C system, they should be willing to give you a break on a follow-up check and fix.
  • largelouislargelouis Member Posts: 5
    thanks for your help. the dealer has agreed to give me a break, . are you ready??? instead of charging me $1150 to do the job their willing "to giving me a break" and only charge me $900, swell guys, don't ya think !!!
  • largelouislargelouis Member Posts: 5
    thanks for your help. the dealer has agreed to give me a break, . are you ready??? instead of charging me $1150 to do the job their willing "to giving me a break" and only charge me $900, swell guys, don't ya think !!!
  • nwraaanwraaa Member Posts: 177
    Is there a shop in your area that specializes in A/C repair? They might be able to fix it for a lower price. The $900.00, give or take a few dollars, is the standard Ford/Lincoln charge for the job. I'd rather replace the air springs or cracked manifolds then to dive into the blend door actuator job. The other job that is just as bad and actually a little worse is replacing a leaking heater core on the Town Car.
  • jay2010jay2010 Member Posts: 2
    On a related website I found a post saying that he had simply disconnected the powert to the actuator and used a screwdriver to move the door from one side to the other. He had to do this once in the spring, to deliver cool air, and once in the fall, to deliver hot air. That sounds like a workable solution for me here in central Ohio, with my otherwise wonderful 1996 Town Car. How difficult is it to locate and disconnect the power to this unit?

    I'm about go run the diagnostic test which I hope will give me more life on the actuator. It's already gone to "all cold air" after giving me the clicking and tapping as it tried to close/open these past few days. Otherwise it's time to dig up about $800 or so and get her to the dealership. My fear is that will all the bolts and screws that are involved I'll end up with a good actuator and multiple rattles & squeaks that have nothing to do with the original problem.
  • osielosiel Member Posts: 1
    say i have the same problem what did u do to fix that
  • eljebeljeb Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Town car, at the begining of this week it started making a buzzing noise behind the dashboard when I reached 50 mph. At the time it sounded a lot like an electric buzz. I drove the car below 50 the next day to get to work. When I left to go home, I put the car in neutral and revved the engine and could not get the sound to repeat. I then proceeded to go home via the express way, exceeding 50 mph. The sound came back. I continued to drive with the buzz persisting. A short time spent at 70 mph and I heard a popping noise and the buzzing stopped. Then I heard a sound similar to wind blowing through a tunnel comming from the dash. When I drive the car now I get a rattling noise at 30 mph that sounds like a bolt was thrown into a fan, the noise stops at 45 mph and the wind tunnel noise comes back. The noise is painfully loud and annoying. The heater has not been working this year. Last year my heat worked but the year before that it did not either. Any ideas what my noise is comming from and how I can stop it?
  • jsr2112jsr2112 Member Posts: 1
  • kenfowlerkenfowler Member Posts: 2
    2002 town car which has been great until now. Blower stopped 2 weeks ago then came back on without any intervention from me. Stopped again on Tuesday and came on once for a few seconds today. I checked the fuse under the dash and it is fine. I then went to a Tuffy a/c clinic for an assessment. They said it was the compressor needing drained and refilled but I said it was the blower and that should work regardless. He said doing what he said would fix it. Charged me $150 and it didn't. He came to me and said the blower is burnt out!!! I said that I had told him it was the blower but maybe it is just a relay or broken wire. He said the relay was also burnt out then went on to say the compressor was leaking. I told him I didn't believe him and drove off feeling scammed. When I got home, the blower came on again by itself. I don't know what to do now as it might work for a week or might not work next time I start the car. When it works, it works perfectly - any help appreciated
    Ken
  • bdudleybdudley Member Posts: 2
    Yes,think u got scammed.Don't know how they could refill with freon without fan working.If u can disconnect wires to fan motor and use jumper wires direct from fan motor too battery and see if motor runs.Also use a test light to see if you have 12v at plug to motor.Having same problem here as you and my motor checks fine.Still trying to find problem.
  • kenfowlerkenfowler Member Posts: 2
    Hi
    I'm making headway and think it is the temperature control module which is a bit difficult to do but likely to be the problem for me & only costs $50. The blower motor runs perfect when running a wire to it and I can actually get the blower going by wiggling the wires on the back of the module. Some great advice and tips on www.lincolnsonline.com with diagrams and lots of people with previous similar issues.
    Good luck
    Ken
  • maxeybillymaxeybilly Member Posts: 29
    Recently, I thought my ac was not working right so I took it to mech. He said they put3/10 of a pound of refrigerant in it and told me proper way to get coldest quickest is to engage "Auto" w manual override fan speed at a lower setting, and w "recirculate" engaged. Well, its been 95-100+ degrees here for the last 3 weeks and always seems to cool just fine in AM and until about 3-4 PM when its 106+.
    In AM, I just seclect auto w thermostat set for 60 (lowest setting) and recirculate off. It cools just fine and when I engage recirc it will get even colder. The Problem is, in afternoon after car has set in the Sun all day, It dosen't seem to matter what I select it just takes too long to really cool. 'Ive tried auto, 60 (coldest setting), w/o recirc off ---Manual, dash vents only, 60, and recirc on, but seems no matter which combination of settings I select it just takes too long when the outside temp is above 95. Any thoughts, anyone?
  • maxeybillymaxeybilly Member Posts: 29
    I bought an 05 TC a few months ago and have not been all that happy with the ride...which is suppose to be one of the best in luxury cars. It just seems to "bounce" rather than "float" down the road. I'm not talking about weak shocks type of bounce, just, I can feel every crack or bump in the road like overinflated tires (which they are not). When the car is fully loaded ( 4 people)
    it rides a lot better. I've tried turning off the air suspension for comparison but it doesn't seem to make any noticeable difference. Any thoughts anyone?
  • hawgfanhawgfan Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Towncar. Last week the a/c started blowing hot air and it sounds like a small motor is running and some kind of flap is either opening and closing or it is rotating and opening and then flopping shut. When I turn on the A/C it is cold for about 2-5 seconds and then turns max hot. The vent system seems to be working as it will go from floor to vent to defrost, etc.... the temp is always on max hot however. Also, the motor sound and flapping noise even runs while the system is turned off. The motor is sounding weaker and weaker each day. Anyone have any economical ideas? From what I've read on here so far, anything related to the a/c system is a nightmare and very expensive. Thanks.
  • allen1967allen1967 Member Posts: 1
    HI,
    I have a 2001 Lincoln Town Car. The #6 15 amp fuse keeps blowing. It runs the EATC and it's pretty cold in Illinois in the morning..lol. Any ideas if there is a short or a bad relay. If I turn the key to power the car (not starting, just to get power) it works without blowing. As soon as I turn start the car up it blows right away.
    And suggestions?
    Thanks,
    Al
  • johnnyv2johnnyv2 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 town car, When i set the ac at 60 degrees it takes 8-10 minutes to start blowing cold air this happens every time i turn on the AC. does anyone know how to fix my problem?
  • euphoniumeuphonium Member Posts: 3,425
    Suggest you have a technician check for the correct amount of Freon or R34. If the system is operating on a low volume of coolant, you can burn out the compressor.
  • johnnyv2johnnyv2 Member Posts: 3
    the system has been recharged but it wont blow cold air for no sooner than 8-10 minutes every time
  • johnnyv2johnnyv2 Member Posts: 3
    I had my ac filled and after shutting the car off the AC wont blow cold untill 8-10 minutes pass. he thinks there might be a sensor in the dash area or in back of the radio that might need canging. Any thoughts or fixes would be a great help. Thakl You.
  • izaclown1izaclown1 Member Posts: 118
    I as told that Lincoln did not want to blow hot air out until it as cooler before blowing any air. Same on the heater. I usually rolled my windows don hill driving to help it work faster. Maybe I was being fed a line but that is the mine works in a 2002.
  • maxeybillymaxeybilly Member Posts: 29
    Can anyone school me on how to change the plugs on my '05 Town Car? I looked at it and it doesn't look at all like plugs changes I have done on other cars. The plugs seem to have an electrical "clip" atop a plug tower, which seems wedged under what looks like the fuel rail for the injectors. Is changing the plugs on this care really this complicated? Is it a DIY or do I actually need to take it to a mechanic? Please advise. Thanks to all who respond to this shade tree mech.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    What you see is "coil on plug" technology, which Ford embraced in the 90's, and other manufacturers have done the same, however, GM and Chrysler lag behind, still producing some cars with plug wires.

    This new technology provides a small coil for every plug, located on top of it. They must be removed first, to get to the plug. Very efficient, no leakage of voltage from wires, no radio interference. More expensive though, and harder to tune up. How many miles do you have on the car? The plugs will last an easy 100,000 miles.
  • w9r1w9r1 Member Posts: 15
    Just did this on my 99 TC. One of the things you should probably do is replace the coils if you're going to the trouble to change the plugs. You can buy a complete coil set (8) on ebay for less than $80 shipped. Dealer price will be about $90/each. Another thing to look for is if you have any oil around the plug boots when you pull 'em off, you should go ahead and change the valve cover gaskets. If you don't the oil will eventually foul the coils and cause the engine to miss pretty bad even if the plugs are brand new. Ask me how I know.... ;-( If it's missing now, you may already have that problem. Changing the valve cover gaskets is not as easy as you might think. I'm a gear head and opted to have the valve cover gaskets done at the local Pep Boys. $400 labor and about $90 for the gaskets (they're not cheap).
  • euphoniumeuphonium Member Posts: 3,425
    That the plugs go for 100,000, I choose to take it to my mechanic who has the correct tools to do the job correctly. If you already have the tools, fine, but subtract the cost of the tools from the mechanics fee and he looks like the choice to change. He also will be observant to find other possible areas that need attention i.e. valve cover gaskets and so on. Also, his work is guarenteed. Who guarentees your work? ;)
  • maxeybillymaxeybilly Member Posts: 29
    mileage is 94k, which is why I am considering the maintenance. It idles just a bit rough when cold but smooths out when engines warms. So, is this something a non-techy can do or should shy away from??? thanks for the help!
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    So, is this something a non-techy can do or should shy away from???

    I'm a fair mechanic, and I wouldn't even try to do it.
  • w9r1w9r1 Member Posts: 15
    You can do the plugs if you have the spark plug wrench (common) and a wratchet with extension. http://www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/00250.html When I put the plugs back in I use put a rubber hose over the spark plug and get each one started that way by hand then torque them with a wratchet or torque wrench. You don't need special tools to do the plugs, but a torque wrench is recommended. You don't need any special tools (assuming you have a metric tool kit) to do the valve cover gaskets either, it's just that if you follow the shop manual suggestions you have to take alot of stuff off. I think if you look on lincolnsonline.com you can find detailed instructions. If you don't want the expense of factory coils buy the coils on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SET-8-NEW-IGNITION-COILS-1997-2011-FORD-DG508-_W0- QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZYearQ3a1999Q7cMakeQ3aLincolnQ7cModelQ3aTownQ20CarQQhashZite- m4157108ff2QQitemZ280633577458QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories. Each coil has a plug that clips on and one little bolt that holds them down. After you loosen them up you can usually work then off the plugs. You can do that, just take your time. Now if ANY of the spark plugs shows any exterior oil or on the coil boots (sign of valve cover oil seepage), you should go ahead and have the valve cover gaskets changed. I'd recommend taking it to a shop. As I said before, I bought the coils (already had changed the plugs) and took my car to Pep boys. They will do the valve cover job for about $450 including the gaskets. It's not a difficult job, it just takes some time since you just have to take off a bunch of stuff including the windshield wipers and loosen the brake booster (according to the shop manual) to get to the rear valve cover bolts. After changing the plugs, the coils and the valve cover gaskets my 99 runs great.
  • w9r1w9r1 Member Posts: 15
    Found it finally:

    http://www.p71interceptor.com/valvecovers/removereinstall/rh/
    http://www.p71interceptor.com/valvecovers/removereinstall/lh/
  • wjbeanwjbean Member Posts: 1
    Actually the compressor will start "pumping" when there's enough pressure in the system. This typically requires one standard sized (12oz) can of freon, not an entire kit. There is a small amount of compressor oil in every can of freon.

    The compressor won't work if there's a blown fuse, electrical short or open, not enough freon in the system or if the AC computer is somehow not working.
  • denisechilipkadenisechilipka Member Posts: 1
    Where can I purchase a climate control panel for a/c & heater which sits on the dashboard?
  • 99towncarexec99towncarexec Member Posts: 160
    My 96 has the same problem.The A/C auto mode works occasionally,heat never on auto.What's the fix??New unit?
  • w9r1w9r1 Member Posts: 15
    edited June 2011
    Sounds like you need the blower motor resistor. I had the same issue where the fan would run/not run on A/C. I replaced the Blower Motor Resistor.

    http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1356151&parttype=6557- -
  • scotts1987scotts1987 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Lincoln Town Car, Cartier addition with 108,000 mi. I had the a/c on and have noticed no airflow through the vents when the climate control was set at automatic or maximum. However, I could hear the blower working strong.
    I went online and read many forums, including this one, and most of the answers relating to this problem involved checking or replacing the blend door actuator, or a blower motor resistor. I never heard any clicking noise under the dash that's normally heard if one goes bad. I looked at my Haynes manual, but it didn't give much info. I found videos on you tube to give me ideas where to start.

    One video showed the removal and replacement of the actuator just behind the glove compartment of a Ford Explorer, so I removed the glove box in my Lincoln. I didn't find the actuator per say, thinking I was going to have to remove the dashboard to find it.

    What I found was that my glove compartment was overflowing with junk such as napkins, service invoices, etc. The main problems was all the small garbage bags that we kept in there for long trips. With the glove box so full, the paper and plastic bags went over the back wall of the glove box and got sucked into what I assume is the cabin air filter. It's a foam door that opens up when the a/c is on, and was totally blocked with junk.

    I was almost ready to go to the auto parts store and spend some money prior to finding this. I cleared all the junk out and now keep a very minimum of necessities in the glove box and the air flow is fine.

    I know I was lucky and that most people genuinely have something wrong with their a/c, but by unhooking the straps that keep the glove box from falling to the floor and looking behind it saved me money and a lot of time.

    Once in awhile, it can be a very subtle thing that can cause so much trouble, with a very easy solution.
  • maxeybillymaxeybilly Member Posts: 29
    edited July 2011
    05 town car ac usually works great the first time I turn it on each day; it really cools down as it should on AUTO. Then, after I stop somewhere and it sits for awhile, it doesn't cool as quickly the next time I engage the ac. I have heard about blend door actuator problems and this may be it, but how do I know? i suspect it because it just seems that the air coming out is blended with warmer air. however, it may be something different, because in looking around under the dash for anything that might be an obvious problem, I've noticed the aluminum pipes(?) under there are so hot I can't ouch them...this doesn't sound right. At the very least those suckers are giving off a lot of heat. What are they and why are they so hot. Although I haven't c checked them before i use the ac first thing each morning, I know they can't possibly be hot. Please, anyone, can you help me? With each day over 100 degrees here in Oklahoma, and no job, I need to fix this at least cost possible.
  • myke500myke500 Member Posts: 6
    I was able to find qute a bit of resources through lincolnsonline.com and youtube.com to identify where the bda is at and how to get to it. Quite a project requireing 2 persons, and several hours. It is hard to see, but can be viewed from the glove box by looking up and to the left. But the dash must come out to get to it.
  • flamingofarmflamingofarm Member Posts: 1
    Two years ago bought a good souhern 1997 Lincoln town car and air worked. Being it is a winter car in Florida, the air was not used much and last year when I started the car, the air did not work. Did take it to a shop advertising free diagnoses and they said the compresser was shot so I left it be because that did not make sense. Then I saw a troubleshooting program where a car (in this case it was a Jeep) that was taken to four different shops and only two of them diagnosed the problem with the air in this vehicle......was a relay (looked like a fuse) found in a box in the engine compartment.....relay was to send a signal to the system so the clutch would engage..........well, then I wonder if that might be my issue. I found a box that has markings for air relay but not sure how this box opens or how you access it to see if the relay it good or bad. Anyone have any thoughts on this and how I might check it out; would very much appreciate some good feedback.......would be something if that is all it was.
  • w9r1w9r1 Member Posts: 15
    Yes there is a relay just behind the passengerv side valve cover. Hard to get to but it can be done. They are known for going bad. Mine is bad right now. It comes and goes.
  • likesmylinks2likesmylinks2 Member Posts: 2
    Hi John:

    I have a 1996 Town car. I have the same problem w/the blender/actuator door leaking on the passenger floor and NO HEAT. I LIVE IN BLIZZARD TERRITORY. After almost 2 years, PLEASE tell me you now know how to get the dash out? My mechanic is starting to put the screws back in and giving up. LOL :sick: I'M having so much trouble w/this. My mechanic DIED in the middle of repairing it. My 2nd mechanic's father died. We buried him this past Tuesday. HELP
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