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Ford Windstar Starting/Stalling Problems

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Comments

  • freakyfordvanfreakyfordvan Member Posts: 1
    hello, I have a 94 windstar, I am dealing with the electrical problems the van is well known for but my biggest problem is that when I first crank the van it will not go, it acts like it's not getting fuel and spits and spatters, i can have the gas pedal all the way to the floor but it will not go and then all of a sudden it will run fine....but if I let it run for 20-30 mins before driving it runs fine until I cut it off and let it sit for a few mins. then sometimes when I use it at first it sounds like it gets stuck in a gear but then after it warms up it won't do that anymore... what in the world is causing this to happen? :confuse:
  • jlindleyjlindley Member Posts: 1
    Same problem with 2002 windstar. Did you ever solve your problem?
  • zachsdad777zachsdad777 Member Posts: 2
    Some of this seems a bit redundant. Starts fine. After 3-5 minutes, when coming to stop, idles down, chirps like a tiny belt squeal (as if the engine were seizing up) and dies where it sits. I have noticed this occurs whether the van is in gear at a stop light, or in park in a driveway. On the most recent occurrences, the vehicle has also been on a slight upward incline. It will start again, seemingly as if there were never an issue. It happens with decreasing frequency as the van gets to normal operating temperature. I have noticed recently that my drivers side window switch will ignore me intermittently when I try to put my window up. Not sure this is related. An additional piece of info is that the van seems to accelerate and run like poop at low speeds, kind of noisy, straining, as if compression is bad...but once up to speed runs nicely, with no performance issues. It is an SEL, with only 76,000 miles. It was VERY well cared for, and the interior is like new, with many amenities, which is why I would love to make this thing be reliable and trustworthy again. I have read the posts about the crank sensor, IAC, PCM relay, Fuel switches, etc. What I am hoping for is some FEEDBACK or new post from someone who has finally figured out this problem, and could help me not waste money on shot in the dark repair techniques. Thank you for helping!
  • delawarejimdelawarejim Member Posts: 4
    If any of your symptoms include a noise that sounds like a fan belt squeal, then your issue is the crank sensor. It has a bushing that goes dry. This causes the squeal noise and throws your engine timing off which will sputter and stall the engine. If you want a way to test that crank sensor, I would take the black cap off and spray some lubricant into this area.....that should loosen that bushing and you should see an immediate improvement. By the way, when you take that black cap off, you are looking at the very top of the crank sensor assembly. If you remove the whole assembly, it is about 10 inches long and goes deep into the engine area. The busing that goes bad is almost at the very top of this assembly and a shot of WD-40 sprayed into it will tell you if this sensor is your culprit. Best of luck to you, Jim in Delaware.
  • zachsdad777zachsdad777 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, Jim. In my heart, I was always leaning toward the crank sensor, because of the short squeal associated with the stall. I kind of figured that the problem would not present itself at higher speed, because a bad bushing would be less apparent due to the higher RPM. What I was struggling with was the fact that once the car is warmed up, it seems fine, no matter what RPM. This issue only seems to occur during the first 10 minutes after a cold start. That fact led me to think IAC or some other malfunction in the throttle body. I threw away $28 at Autozone the other day, as the 2 "pro's" just KNEW it was the TPS. Didn't do a thing. I am all too happy to swap out sensors and gadgets at $50 a pop as they are easy, but am not looking forward to getting all greasy and icky replacing the synchronizer. I am going to do it, though. I will post results in hopes that someone else may be helped, although one assumes all the issues in this forum have been resolved, based on the age of the posts. Thanks again! Tim
  • ham11797ham11797 Member Posts: 1
    this van will stall after running fine for aprrox. 45 minutes, sometimes will start right back up. usually you have wait about an hour for it to restart, turns over fine, what the ???? any answers?
  • robert93436robert93436 Member Posts: 1
    hi we have a 98 ford windstar lx, when we go to start it up the engine dies, no check engine light is on, we have had the coil spring replaced, withe the intake manafold replaced, no vacume leak, fuel filter replaced, brand new spark plugs put in as well, but it does the same thing still
  • kristina0612kristina0612 Member Posts: 1
    hello. i am new to this so please excuse me.. i have a 99 ford windstar that will click multiple times but will not start. we have replaced several things on the van, but the other the car would only click and wouldn't start.. i finally got it today to click multiple times.. (don't ask me how).. i am thinking i am getting a bad connection on my battery or the starter is bad.. not real sure..
    the starter cable going from the starter to the battery had pulled off of the starter which is what made it not start before hand.. we fixed that but yet it still won't start
  • jaybirdfloridajaybirdflorida Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Windstar that has had the same problem...we changed the "crankshaft sensor" and it continued, then changed the "camshaft sensor" and it continued, then changed the "camshaft synchronizer". It has run 7 days without a problem...knock on wood !! good luck Jay
  • bkaenglandbkaengland Member Posts: 1
    Check your relay fuse. My van did that i could kick start it by sticking a screwdriver on the starter which I dont recomend if you dont know how. The relay fuse had blown.
  • cimarronpasscimarronpass Member Posts: 2
    I have a 96 Ford Windstar, only 5800 miles and it stalls all the time when I remove my foot from the gas. Took it to Ford Dealership and they replaced idle air control valve and performed fuel induction cleaning, it did no good, they said they had no idea why it was doing this and to come get it, they refunded the 300 plus dollars they charged but I still can't drive it. Does anyone have any ideas or what else to try, if FORD Doesnt know, who the heck does???? HELP PLEASE
  • scjibberjaws49scjibberjaws49 Member Posts: 7
    have you repaired this van ???????
  • jlfonzjlfonz Member Posts: 3
    edited August 2013
    No, It gradually deteriorated tot he point where sometimes I can get it to run but it acts like it is running on two cylinders. I think it is the control mounted under the battery holder since it is exposed to splashing from the front left tire. I say it was because I have given up on it and it is sitting in my driveway waiting to junked out or donated.
  • cimarronpasscimarronpass Member Posts: 2
    no, have not fixed or found the problem, just put in new computer as well, at a total loss with this thing
  • scjibberjaws49scjibberjaws49 Member Posts: 7
    how is it running before it dies ? rough or normal ?
    what have you done to it ?
  • scjibberjaws49scjibberjaws49 Member Posts: 7
    i have had this van in my garage for two weeks trying to fix what others has changed out with (junkyard parts ) whitch some of them were bad when they swiched them out, !
    did you put a new COIL PACK ON YOURS ? " To ~ cimarronpass
  • scjibberjaws49scjibberjaws49 Member Posts: 7
    Rough IDLE @ startup with loud sucking sound from breather tube ,after about 1 minute idles down not so bad ! then ok until sets for hours,then starts same way .
  • mommabear757mommabear757 Member Posts: 2
    Hey guys. So desperate mom of three here with one vehicle for my family. Two years ago we bought a 2001 ford Windstar. No major problems until a couple months ago. The van was idling rough so took it to a "friend" who's a mechanic. He popped the hood and said the engine was "swelling" a sign our cadalyc converter was clogged. He cut one off emptied it out in front of us and welded a pipe back on until we had the required $900 to get it properly fixed. My van was fine until two weeks later. My husband comes home from his first job long enough to change clothes and off to the second job. Well 10 mins after leaving he is home telling me the van has no "power" suddenly. Battery turns the car on but as soon as you hit the gas it shuts off. I do a bunch of research and we replace the #15 and #19 fuses. Van starts acting normal again. One week later the o/d light starts blinking and same problem comes back. Fuses are fine. If the van is in park the engine revs fine and everything sounds good. As soon as you put it in gear there's a loss of power. You can somewhat stomp the peddle and get the van to stay on. It will drive and the tranny seems to be shifting fine once you get it up to speed but you have to repeatedly stomp the gas to get it moving and even then you can tell there's no real power. O/d light still flashing. Here's some extra info too. Transmission fluid is good. Abs system is completely gone although they said my van is not covered by recall. The little bolt looking switch that was said to leak had been replaced as well as wires right there before I bought it. Battery is sometimes drained due to break lights coming on whenever they want so new battery in van. Replaced the egr valve and the throttle position sensor. Fuel button is down. Can anybody please please PLEASE help????? My hubby's email is kbrooks703yahoo.com. We have called ford many times but as most of you know they give NO [non-permissible content removed] about us consumers. Thanks y'all!!!!
  • scjibberjaws49scjibberjaws49 Member Posts: 7
    have you got your van fixed ??????

    I Tried your email would not work for me !
  • scjibberjaws49scjibberjaws49 Member Posts: 7
    scjibberjaws49 AT aol Dot Com
  • defiant42472defiant42472 Member Posts: 1
    My friend in Minnesota has a 2000 Ford Windstar LE (3.8L) and it has burned out 3 starters in the last year. She says there are times when starting that it sounds like is's 'grinding'. Her mechanic says he has inspected the flywheel and it's 'fine'. She has said it seems fine when she starts it in the garage in the morning but has the issues after it has set outside at work. Theories I have are 1.) Something is shorted that is causing damage to the starter. 2.) Something within the starting circuit may have a crack in it and is getting moisture in it since it (seems fine after sitting in the garage overnight). Any suggestions on what may be wiping out the starter motors?
  • peteinncpeteinnc Member Posts: 1

    I bought a new starter 3 weeks ago and it was a "rebuilt"unit from ford. Ford has stated that the lead wire on the starter has been corroding on most of these models. You now have to cut off the wire on your wiring strip it and crimp it to the new wire on the starter and then cover it with heat shrink tubing to keep the gunk out. Van ran great for awhile now it won't start. All relays are functioning all fuses are good, and fuel pump shutoff( the inertia switch) are all good. I think the next thing I'm buying for this van is some C4 to fix it for good.....

  • rmmvrmmv Member Posts: 1

    I have a 2000 windstar that I had the intake manifold, O rings, valve cover gaskets, synchronizer and cam sensor replaced on almost two years ago and about 5 months ago my van started dying when I started it. Not the same problem as before when I had the work done, it does not die when I am in motion but only right after I start it and when I am idling. My husband pulled the MAF sensor and replaced it with one that was used and it worked for about a week and then started dying again. He is convinced that the MAF sensor is the problem because unplugging it allows the van to start and run and not die, however it makes me uncomfortable to drive it like that because the engine will thunk when its still cold so I plug it back in. Could this actually be the problem?

  • lovemywindstarlovemywindstar Member Posts: 1
    Sometimes a hose can get disconnected under the hood and throw off the idle. I have had this happen twice with 2 different hoses. Reconnect the hose and it runs like a dream. I had the MAF sensor replaced back in 2008, so I knew it wasn't the problem. It's the crazy electrical glitches that make me crazy with my van!
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