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Hey everyone...read this! I've been trying to diagnose the same problem..same symptoms for over a year on my girlfriends 2001 Taurus. The last post by Ralph80 is the solution. Don't go buy or spend money or time with replacing the fuel pump until you run a separate ground from your fuel pump module as he did..or assuming from his description that is basically what he did. Two independent Ford mechanics on their own, did numerous tests on the fuel system of these cars and both came to this same conclusion. Here's why. the fuel system on these cars is different than most. Asking your friend who is or mechanic or getting advise from even the dealership is a waste of time. It does not apply here and is a vehicle specific issue and one that is not the norm for this situation...which is why there are so many posts about this problem with no definitive solution. In my girlfriends car, this issue had been going on for so long that now I suspect even more peripheral problems ie....over charging of the battery which is killing them as well....or drawing more amps from the battery and causing them to run low and die prematurely. This is still a hunch...... but basically what is happening is a bad or poor ground at the back end of the electrical system that runs the fuel pump, relay and inertia switch. Its a closed system but in short......the bad ground is causing heat in the fuel pump or related valving electrical components ( which will draw more amps or try to from the charging system...alternator.....voltage regulator...and on down the line ) so when you stop after driving for a short time....the overheated part (fuel pump module or related component) doesn't work until it has time to cool, which is why waiting for a while then going back will usually restart as is it should......as well as in my girlfriends car...seems to happen more often on hotter days than cooler ones. However....this does not mean that your fuel pump is not compromised just because you fix the source by adding a new ground. The repeated over heating has probably not be good on the fuel pump and module even if it still works for now. I'm holding my breath to see if the fuel pump might go out anyway. But this also explains why so many people are going to the dealerships and replacing the pumps just to have them fail again. No offense to any REAL dealership mechanics out there but my experience is that they are good at replacing parts and not so good at diagnostics. Old school guys used to repair and rebuild cars and because of that, new a million tricks and causes for just about every situation you could imagine simply because they had to tear things down and look inside to actually discover where and why things fail..dealerships make money on both ends by selling you and installing new parts.
I will post later if I have any more to add. I wish someone like myself had posted this earlier but I hope this helps someone else not have to go through the same process I did. FYI: I didn't rip into my girlfriends gas tank yet in hopes that I could find a solution....The ground seemed to do the trick.
Follow up to my last post....the Ford Mechanic(s) I referred to actually ran a new (separate) ground wire directly from the fuel pump module at the tank to the floor behind the rear seat with a through screw in the sheet metal. This is what I did but I tapped into the ground wire at the first location I could get to it without dropping the gas tank****
Today I decided to cover as many bases as I could with this ground issue and found every ground point in the trunk area and behind the rear seat as I could and ran them all into my new ground point in the floor pan just behind the seat. I looked up the schematics and found 3 ground wires. One green/yellow from what believe is the drivers side control module and two others ( solid black ) that come in from the passengers side in the trunk harness that are tied together.....a total of two factory ground locations. This makes a total of 3 new ground wires coming into my new ground screw....one from the pump sender module, one coming in or out ? of the drivers side module and one coming from the two black harness grounds. I think this about covers all the available grounds. I'll post anything new if there is anything that comes from this.
Update on ground wire install.......In my previous post I stated that I had initially tapped the first available ground from the harness coming from the top of the fuel tank. This appears to have been redundant after finally finding a full schematic for a 2001 Taurus SES. The systems on these cars and their location appear to be all over the map from year to year so it was hard to pinpoint specific wires. What I finally figured out is that the ground wires that appear to be the main target in resolving this issue were located on the right side of the trunk screwed into the inner fender well. On the left side in about the same location was a green/black wire coming out of the harness that is also a ground. I'm not 100% sure on this but this one according to the wiring schematics is associated with the power antenna circuit and would be less likely to have anything to do with the issue we're discussing. All the main ground wires show as either black or black/white on the diagram throughout the entire electrical system. Anyway...the three black grounds on the right hand trunk side appear to all be associated with the fuel system and as I stated earlier.......I ran an auxiliary wire from that point forward to the floor just under the rear seat. I ran one from the left side to the same point as well just for good measure. The first wire I ran from the harness was actually on the same run going to the rear right ground screw so it wasn't really necessary .....overkill in this case shouldn't hurt. I will post later with anything new
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