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Ford Taurus Fuel Pump

24

Comments

  • gary106gary106 Member Posts: 9
    Key off power to pump and pump runs and will not shut off
    Have accesss to fuel gage and preasure was good
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Member Posts: 124
    What kind of fuel pressure readings do you have ?

    Also, do you recall the valve I told yo'u about ? if so, have you located it ?
    It is not recomenned to clean this valve BUT, I have cleaned many valves and got them to work. 1. remove valve, you will see 2 holes about 1/2 " diam. fill these holes with a good carb cleaner, let sit move plunger w/a small screwdriver, fill again,let sit 10 - 15 min. rince out with VERY HOT water, blow dry and reinstall,
    It may or may not work properly, if not, replace with new valve.
  • gary106gary106 Member Posts: 9
    The fuel pump is working and now the fuel pours into the cylinders flooding it. I have unplugged the fuel pump blew out the cylinders and started it to run the excess fuel out. Had to change the oil as it was saturated. Did i mess up the fuel pump hot wiring it temporarily or is the computer messed up About ready to trash the car where should I head next
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Member Posts: 124
    WHAT IS YOUR FUEL PRESSURE ? I don't think you hurt the pump. You may have a bad fuel injecter, 1 that is not closing. Could you tell which cyl had all the gas in it ? Does it start on it's own now.?
  • gary106gary106 Member Posts: 9
    28 PSI for fuel presssure
    replaced injectors
    replaced fuel regulator
    replaced fuel pump
    fills the cylinders full when cranking it over. Should I put in a new computer?
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Member Posts: 124
    Well I haven't forgot you , I'm checking w/my Ford buddys to get you an answer.
    ? are you still running your fuel pump wired from batt power or w/the key.?
    I don't think 28 lbs is enough. as I remember it should be 36-40 lbs.
    I THINK your fuel pump relay and your injecter pulse whith are controlled by the PCM.
    Having said all that, let me check w/my Ford buddys that still work on these.
    Cliff
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Member Posts: 124
    Hey Gary106,
    Send an e-mail to me with your Cell or Home phone #

    I checked w/my Ford buddies and I have some info for you,

    clifford20@comcast.net
  • beeauchbeeauch Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone please tell me the location for the fuel pump in a 2000 Ford Taurus wagon, and the easiest "access" to it!!???? Thank a million!!!!!!!!!
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Member Posts: 124
    edited June 2010
    The fuel pump is located in the fuel tank. The tank must be removed to gain access to the pump.
    Are you sure the pump is defective ?
    You have a 20 amp fuse, fuel pump diode,and a fuel pump relay located in the fuse box under the hood.
    I think the relay is towards the front of the box, you can switch it with another relay.
    The diode is at the front of fuse box, there are 2 of them, small & black, 1 is for the A/C and 1 is for the fuel pump. you can switch these too.
    Also check the crash cutout for the fuel pump, located inside the R.F. inside kick panel. You should be able to see the red plunger on top of this cutout,without removing anything, just make sure the the red plunger is pushed down.
    If all this checks out, and you can't hear the pump run for 2-3 sec when you turn the key on.
    Keep me posted
    Cliff
  • jimp61jimp61 Member Posts: 1
    Step-son's 96 Taurus was hard starting for a while, then no problem for a while. Now suddenly it cranks and doesn't start at all. Before going to the fuel pump, I pressed the pin in the valve on the fuel rail where you would connect a pressure gage. I don't have a pressure gage, but the fuel only came up about a half inch and it wasn't spurting. Decided to try changing the fuel pump. Pulled the tank and checked the pump, but it seems to be running fine. Can the fuel pump still run and not put out any pressure?
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Member Posts: 124
    You also have a fuel pressure control valve on the fuel rail.if this valve goes bad they can pump the fuel back into the tank. It should regulate the pressure from 35-40 lbs, and send any excess pressure back to the tank.
  • richf65richf65 Member Posts: 1
    My 2002 Ford Taurus recently started having problems starting when it has only been off for about an hour. It starts up, but gurgles like it is not getting enough fuel and then dies. I can wait a few hours and it starts fine with no issues. Is this the fuel pump going bad or something else. It seems like if it was the fuel pump, it would die while driving.
  • golferricgolferric Member Posts: 1
    Are you still available for info?
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Member Posts: 124
    edited October 2010
    WHAT KIND OF PROBLEM ARE YOU HAVING ? If eng is hard to start when hot, it is most likely that the eng is being flooded with fuel while sittng after you shut off eng. get a fuel pressure gauge ( you should be able to get a loaner at Auto-Zone ) connect it to fuel rail, bring up eng to operateing temp, shut off eng and watch the fuel gage and see what it reads, it should retain running fuel pressure. if pressure drops down, you may have an injector leaking fuel into a cylinder when shut down. Also, there is a check valve in the fuel pump and it could be leaking pressure back into tank.
    Run these tests and let me know.
    Cliff
  • chuckhumpreychuckhumprey Member Posts: 2
    I’ve encounter this problem before, it gurgles like that. And golferric’s suggestion is right. I thought I needed to replace a lot of my ford taurus parts,but a friend told me that my injector might be leaking fuel and we’ve done the same test.
  • shadetree123shadetree123 Member Posts: 1
    My 2001 Taurus has no ground to the fuel pump relay coil.
    Has power to the contactor and if jumperd fuel pump will run.
    Question: does the computer control the ground to the fuel pump relay?
    Is it ok to add ground? Is the fuel pump supposed to run all the time when power is on? it does when I jumper it.

    Thanks in advance,
    ST
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Member Posts: 124
    You should Not run a seperate ground to the relay.
    If I remember correctly, look in the fuse box under the hood, you should find 2 small black diodes, i think they are towards the front a box. 1 of these diodes is for the fuel pump, the other is for ??? Try switching these 2 diodes and see if this fixes your fuel pump relay ground problem, if it does, buy a new diode and WALA.
    Also, check the crash cut out to the fuel pump, I think it's located in the R. inner
    kick panel. Make sure the button plunger is pushed all the way down, it will be a red button.
    Keep me posted
    Cliff
  • 2bef2bef Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Taurus (approx 130K mi) and my fuel pump is acting up. It does not consistently come on for the 2-3 seconds necessary when starting the engine. Most of the time when it's acting up, it will finally kick in if I keep turning the key off and on. This morning it never kicked in. When I got home tonight it still did not kick in and finally the battery started to run down. I hooked up my battery charger and after a few minutes I tried it again. The 2nd time I turned the key on, the pump kicked in and it started right up.

    After a hundred or so attempts this morning and tonight with no success, the logical conclusion (well, logical for me anyway) is that the extra juice from the charger made the difference. Isn't 12 volts, 12 volts? If there were enough amps to keep turning the engine over I've got to believe there were enough amps to make the fuel pump kick in, right? I'm looking for some hints/suggestions. Even at auto zone the fuel pump assembly is $270. I'm broke and can't really afford spend that kind of money unless I'm really sure that will fix the problem. Is there a sure fire way to know the fuel pump is bad or going bad? Any assistance, thoughts, prayers, etc. is greatly appreciated.
  • coach59coach59 Member Posts: 5
    I've been following this thread trying to figure out what to do next. The '94 Taurus we just picked up just suddenly wouldn't start; it cranks and there is spark but it won"t turnover. I'm trying to do all I can do before I have to drop the tank. How do I find this 'relay' I hear talked about, I don"t see anything in the fuse box designated for the fuel pump.
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Member Posts: 124
    Your fuel pump relay is located in the under hood fuse box, it should show it in your owner's manual. BUT first, Get in a totally quiet location, door closed, seat belt on,
    radio off, Turn the key to the RUN pos. You should hear a low hum noise for 2-3 sec.
    then it stops. If you hear this, then the relay and the pump are working. Do this then let me know what you find.
    Cliff
    clifford20@comcast.net
  • coach59coach59 Member Posts: 5
    yes, I did hear something that quit after a moment or two.
  • coach59coach59 Member Posts: 5
    So if the fuel pump works, since I did hear the hum, is there something else between the fuel line and the injectors that could be the problem? Other than hearing the hum is there another test to insure that the pump is working?
  • kryschloekryschloe Member Posts: 1
    So did anyone figure out the answer to this one because i have the same exact issue going on now.
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Member Posts: 124
    What in detail is the problem with your car ?
  • alnmaralnmar Member Posts: 6
    edited December 2010
    I have switched the diodes in the fuse box this morning and the noise test worked and the car started. I ran my car for 30 minutes and shut it off. I tried to restart car and the car tried to start but then just didn't turn over. I waited for a while and bought two new diodes and I didNt hear the pump when key was in the run position. I haven't looked for the shutoff in the right kick panel. I was wondering if with the new diodes after running the car today and it not restarting what other checks I can do because I don't believe the fuel pump is bad. Or at least I hope. Any help would be appreciated. Cliff where you at buddy?
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Member Posts: 124
    Hey a thought, Think of the diode as a 1 way check valve, current will only flow in 1 direction. So turn the diode 180* and reinstall.Do that 1 at a time and listen for the pump running. Then let me know.
    Cliff
  • alnmaralnmar Member Posts: 6
    I gave the diodes the quick look but am unable to turn the diodes in a180" direction because the connections are predetermined. Unable to turn. I just find it weird after reading all the other info about the fuel pump. It worked in the morning after a quick switch of the diode but later not at all. I guess my last question before I try and pull the gas tank is what does the shutoff valve look like in the right kick panel. And do you think there may be some sort of short. Also gas level is low possible fuel pump burn?
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Member Posts: 124
    One thing to remember is to keep your fuel level above 1/2 tank. this is what keeps the pump running cool. Now before you condem the pump, you said it ran for 30 min, right? If it did then cut off switch is ok. Have you change or switched the fuel pump relay ?

    Cliff
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Member Posts: 124
    1 more thought, get a fuel pressure gauge, ( you can rent 1 at auto-zone ) for no-charge. check & make SURE you don't have fuel pressure. Well 1 thing you can check is to remove the valve cap ( which is on the SSteel fuel rail on the top of the eng.) push down on the tire valve stem and stand back and see if it shoots out a stream of gas.
    Let me know.
    Cliff
  • alnmaralnmar Member Posts: 6
    I am going to check the relay and also the gas pressure. Today. I will let you know what happens
    Thanks
  • alnmaralnmar Member Posts: 6
    I switched the relay today and nothing. No start.
  • coach59coach59 Member Posts: 5
    I was on the forum earlier with fuel pump issues. The original problem seemed to be fixed when we determined that the car alarm anti theft measure may have shut off the fuel injectors, but then the problem reoccurred; the last time it shut off while my son was driving home from work. It sat at home till I had a chance to look at it and when I did it turned over, now it won't again. Is there a way to bypass the anti-theft system or has it been your experience that a fuel pump my have this off & on problem as it is going out? I'm tired of getting it towed!
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Member Posts: 124
  • alnmaralnmar Member Posts: 6
    in my experience the fuel pump just started to go on and off while it was dying. I got tired of waiting and i did try every thing imaginable to try and not replace the fuel pump directly. Unfortunatley that is what i had to do to relieve this problem. Really not to bad a job to do if you have a couple of floor jacks and another hand to help. Part is the expensive part I got mine Napa for $300.
  • trose2trose2 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 02 taurus with 212000miles and recently have had to start replacing parts here and there...my biggest question is, is when im going a certain speed like 30mph and i stay at that speed for awhile it starts to studder and act dumb...also when snow or to much air goes through in the front where the radiator sits it studders to...anyone have an idea what needs to be replaced??????
  • bullwagon01bullwagon01 Member Posts: 1
    Replace your DPFE (EGR pressure sensor)! cheap and easy $30-40. If you have a OHV-V6 it's just over the back of the intake plenum just in front of fire wall-it's a small thin black box that mounts to back of intake it has a small circle button on top and 2 small hoses underneath and an electrical harness connection on backside (please check Ebay auto parts section and plug in your vehicle-look under emissions and put in egr pressure sensor in search line) This will give you a picture of part! So easy to change and I would almost guarantee that's your prob. I'm in need to change mine (167,000 mi.), 'Cuz it's doing it again after 50,000 mi. on part. Good luck-by the way it's not your EGR valve itself that's the cause so DON'T GET SUCKED IN TO BUYING ONE-THEY ARE $80 and don't solve prob!
  • surferman73surferman73 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Ford taurus and after 130K miles the pump went out in December. My father in Law owns a ford dealership and has run the service dept for 40 years. He put in a Napa pump at the end of December to save me some money. 2 weeks later it went out. Napa warranted the pump but not the labor. Had a Ford dealer here where i live install the new pump from napa. Tech lowered the car down went to start it up, and the pump was shot! Again i paid for the labor. Now we went to pump 3, a ford pump with the warranty. Presto, it worked..... for 2 months then it went bad too. Now at this point, this is the 4th pump including the original. Ford fixed for free. Life was good for a while. Then last week, presto, the pump goes out again!!!!!!! Ford, the dealership and me are all unhappy. Car did 130K on the first pump and now the car has been driven a total of 10 miles a day for 3 months and we are working on pump 5. If it just tunrs over, its the pump. Mine would always start cold but not once it warmed up before it went totally out. Each one of my pumps died while the car was running. Once on the road and the rest in my driveway. Driveway is sloped so the pump has to work harder to pump the fuel. Half a tank will definitely help keep the pump going but ALWAYS get the ford pump that comes with the labor warranty. I have spent $2000 on this problem and my car was probably only worth $3000. DO NOT GET AFTERMARKET PUMP!. I Hope this helps more people.
  • ladyautomechladyautomech Member Posts: 9
    On my car the gas Gage does not work and it is having the same problems, the only way I am able to keep it from cutting off and not starting is to drive it with my foot constantly on the gas even when I am breaking, I drove it all day yesterday like that, before I turned the engine off I just lightly pressed the gas pedal to the floor then turned it off. The car has started for me every time. My question is do to the gas Gage not working anyways and I am having the same problems is it wise to just go ahead and replace the fuel pump. To my understanding the gas Gage part has broken off and is floating in the tank the next thing to go is the fuel pump? Is this true....
  • alnmaralnmar Member Posts: 6
    i would just go ahead and replace the fuel pump.... it is a problem with the car it seems and is something that will give you a lot of headaches if you don't replace it soon... as far as how long it will start and stop i don't know, but the diodes under the hood may need to be replaced as well.....
  • ladyautomechladyautomech Member Posts: 9
    Thank you for getting back to me so quickly greatly appreciated, I will also replace what you mentioned under the hood. Again greatly appreciated, you have a wonderful day. I will be sure to come back with any and all questions or concerns if any come up.
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Member Posts: 124
    You my not get a new gas gauge sender with an after market fuel pump. Make sure your pump has float & rod on it.
    Also forget about the diodes up front, if your car starts and goes down the road, the diodes are OK.
    It sounds like your problem is throttle position sensor. It is mounted on your air intake tube, has two mounting screws, is small & black plastic, with a # of wires going to it.
    A new pump may fix your gas gauge, but it will not fix your running problem.
    Cliff
  • ladyautomechladyautomech Member Posts: 9
    Thank You so very much I do appreciate your time and input on my situation.
    See the thing is I have been questioning my fuel pump because of the fact I can hear it working strong, to me it seems like something is blocking the gas flow. Every sence my roomate ran her (meaning my car) out of gas and kept cranking it trying to start it is when I started having this problem. Tonight I was driving it over to my friends place so we can drop the tank and when I felt her hesitate getting ready to die I let my foot off the gas and coasted down the street with my flashers on and it was like she started zooming down the road again, so i lightly pushed on the gas pedal and away we went, then she like chug chug and the engine light came on I let off the gas and the engine light went off and we drove to my friends house with out her cutting off.

    thank you again....
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Member Posts: 124
    Well now, I guess you could have a weak pump but try this first. With key in the off pos. turn off all acc, radio,wipers, blower motor, door closed, and seat belt buckled. Turn key to on pos,
    and listen for a humming noise that last for 1-3 sec. and stops. If it does this, look on your fuel rail for a port that looks like a tire valve, the fuel rail is on top of your eng and is stainless steel, looks like chrome. Remove the valve cap and depress the valve stem with small screw driver, ball point pen or anything you can find. DO NOT have y.our face over this port. It should shoot a stream of gas out of the port. If it dose, your pump is building up ample pressure. If it just dribbles out then let me know, and I'll point you to another area
    Cliff.
  • wrenchedwrenched Member Posts: 12
    I had a problem similar .......... make sure you have an good ground!! I ran a dedicated ground to mine and it seemed to make a difference.......... also I believe yours also has a fuel return system built right into the pump. By that I mean when there new they will overcome the relief valve on the pump and keep the pressure where it needs to be but after they wear in if its bypassing pressure constantly then it will slowly wear itself out and wont be able to produce enough pressure. I have seen that before so pay particular attention to the bypass thats built into the pump module!!!!!!!!
  • ladyautomechladyautomech Member Posts: 9
    The Fuel Pump makes the humming sound then I checked the valve stem like you said and only dribble comes out its like no pressure at all it seems, Just to add when I took off the gas cap there was no hissing sound either. So is this indeed the fuel pump, I did replace the fuel filter and when we took out the fuel pump everything was intact it looked fairly brand new, with that in mind, why doesn't the gas Gage work? If there is anything else I can do to determine what's wrong please let me know. Oh! One more thing I forgot to add the car sat in her drive way for about 4-5 months because her late husband bought her a 2011 ford taurus, he did start it every other day to pull it from the street to the dive way, if that makes a difference in solving my problem. I bought the car from my best friend last month. She was the second owner, her mom bought it from her best friend in late 1990 with only 15,000 miles on it...any ways if you could get back to me ..... Thank you
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Member Posts: 124
    On your fuel rail, you have a fuel pressure regulator. It is about the size of a very small Dixie
    cup and it has a vac. hose on the top. Do the same test as before, only this time pull off the vac. hose and see if there is any gas in this hose. if so replace this valve. if ithis valve is DRY,
    them your pump may be the problem.
    1 other thought, get a feul pressure gage from Auto-Zone ( rent at no charge ) and hook it up the the test port on the fuel rail. The fuelpump should build up about 40-45 lbs. pressure. If it does your pump is ok, but you could have a fuel injector not holding pressure and leaking into the cyl.
    Do these checks and let me know.
    Cliff
  • johnh7097johnh7097 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, i have read all of the messages on here and on other web sites about these fuel pump issues on the Ford Taurus and Mercury Sable. Needless to say i can't believe how many of us have had the same issues and been unable to solve them. As usual Ford will not officially admit their responsibility. I have had the same problems as everybody else, the car runs fine, then one time you stop for 10-15 minutes and the car will not restart. let it sit for 1/2 hour and it starts and runs fine. This happened a couple of times then finally it stopped running altogether one day cold in the garage. I broke down and bought a motorcraft fuel pump, $325, put it in myself, thought the problem was solved, car ran great for 2-3 months, not it stopped working again altogether, no fuel pump run on initial ingnition switch on again, no start. now I have to start all over again, hopefully it will be something easy instead of a bad pump, one thing that bothers me about some of these posts is the guys that recommend runnning a seperate ground wire to the pump. After reading about the inertia switch being on the ground side of the pump, if that is true and you are telling people to run a seperate ground from the pump to under the rear seat to a " good ground " then you are telling people to bypass a very important safety feature of the ford fuel system. If you bypass that inertia switch and something happens to that car in an accident where the fuel pump keeps running and the fuel spills causing a fire and continuous flow of fuel keeps coming out, when Ford Motor Company put in a safety feature to prevent that, and someone dies in the fire, morally and legally you would be responsible for someones death, i know they may never be able to prove the death was a result of this post but your name and e-mail account are attached to this website and you could be drawn into a multi-million $$$ lawsuit, so before you go giving advise on how to disable safety features on vehicles you should think twice about adding wires or disconnecting wires that may or may not involve safety features that are built into cars by the manufacturer. Just my opinion be careful and be safe, fix it right or leave it to an expert, don't half [non-permissible content removed] your wiring systems on your car or you could be sorry, thanks for this website,
  • ladyautomechladyautomech Member Posts: 9
    I replaced my fuel pump did everything I was asked to do and I did not even get 5 miles and the dam thing did it again, only this time 4 to 7 hours later after being stranded it started I got it to Auto Zone where I bought the Fuel Pump asked to Borrow their Pressure Gage only to be told it would cost be $160.00 and when i bring them back the Pressure gage I would get the $160.00 back, now mind you my car was just outside their front door, but no they would not even let me borrow it they would not even come out their with me, I was told they do not do that kind of services along with the check engine light service.
    Any ways do you think this could be a faulty Fuel Pump, my other one I had no problem hearing it this one i have to strain to hear it, and it did not correct my fuel gage problem, I have a full tank and it just started reading 1/2 a tank, it just verys some times it reads a quarter of a tank.
    So far this project has cost me a total of $500.00 parts and labor and I am at my witts end a couple guys that work with me at the Auto Auction we are going to start from the rear and work our way to the front cleaning and inspecting every inch of this vehicle to figure out what the hell could be causing this. It is rediculous that Ford has not come up with a solution to this matter, Seeing that it is a on going problem with this make and model, you would think they would do everything in their power to fix or at least pin point why we are all having the same problem, with the way the economy is today we do not and can not afford being with out our vehicle let alone paying cost after cost to keep doing the same job over and over due to faulty parts and not knowing why this keeps happening to this vehicle. If you come up with any other ideas what may be causeing this problem, please I am all ears.
    If we run into anything I will keep you all posted, we are going to clean, test, make notes of everything that is being done to my 1990 Ford Taurus L 3.0 6cly 4 door sedan....
    Please any suggestions would be greatly appreciated..
    Thank You... S
  • wrenchedwrenched Member Posts: 12
    As far as your fuel level reading is concerned ............ the gauges in the car are electronic too. That being said they operate within a certain ohm range..... meaning resistance is what the gauge reads. Now there is a rheostat (otherwise known as a potentiometer) that is built into the fuel pump assembly .............. that works basically the same way the thermostat on the wall in your house works by varying the voltage that gets to the gauge. However there are instances where the gauge itself can be bad because the electronics in the gauge do not properly read the voltage coming from the fuel pump. I myself have only seen this a handful of times (maybe 3). So that all said you could possibly have 2 separate problems going on here. Like I said in a previous e-mail you need to make sure that the pressure relief part of the system is functioning properly. You may have a fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail under the hood. There should be a vacuum hose attached to it........... if the car will start....... remove the hose and see if any fuel comes out. If it does replace the regulator the diaphragm inside is bad!! If it doesn't have the external pressure regulator I would almost have to say the pump is defective if the fuel pressure doesn't fall within specs. IMPORTANT........... make ABSOLUTELY sure that all the connections are good ESPECIALLY the ground!!!!!!!!!! In one instance I had to run a dedicated (separate) ground to the pump along with the one built into the harness........... I dont know why this made a difference......... I can't explain it........... but it did. The only thing that makes any sense is there was to much resistance in the harness ground. Anyway I hope this helps??? Best of luck to you!!
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Member Posts: 124
    1. Other cause of fuel pressure loss could be a leaking fuel injector, With everything turned off, radio, heater,door closed, seat belt latched.
    Turn ign key from off to the run pos. listen for a humming noise that lasts 1-2 sec. then stops..
    Does the car run at all ?

    Cliff
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