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Quick recap:
"Here’s what is proposed:
• Owners who had the pads replaced and rotors resurfaced before approval of the settlement would be reimbursed for one half of the cost, or a maximum of $125, “whichever is less.” That would be for repairs in which the original worn pads were replaced with pads of the same type. Owners can file claims for multiple repairs, and the work does not need to have been done at a Honda dealership.
Owners who complained on the N.H.T.S.A. Web site typically said they paid from $100 to $300 for the repair, which sometimes included the brake rotors being smoothed out.
• Owners will also be given a one-time payment of up to $150 to have the new, redesigned brake pads installed.
Mr. Gibbs said the $150 should pay for most repairs, but some consumers might have to pay an extra $10 or $20. He said that seemed like the best deal possible because there would be no guarantee that consumers would get more after a trial."
Full article: http://wheels.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/04/06/honda-settles-class-action-suit-over-- brakes/
My 09 just hit 13k and still ok on the rear brakes...">link title
Mrbill
I have a 2007 Accord, 5 sp, 20k miles and I just had to have the rear brakes replaced. I did not even realize that they were failing until this past Saturday morning when they started making a crunching noise that got progressively worse and ear-splittng. With little to no braking power, I never would have made it to the dealer which was about 10 miles away so I brought it to VIP which was a mile away and they told me the brakes were shot. They asked if I drove around with my parking brake on--which I do not. I have a friend who is a mechanic and he said that it is very unusual for rear brakes to go so quickly-especially on a standard. He suggested that I take it to the dealer and demand reimbursement for the repairs.
Take your chances with the dealer-demand repair under warranty. Worst they can say is no. Good luck
I have an 06 Accord with a manual transmission (basically the same as the 07) and I have almost 80k on the original brakes. Either our driving habits are very different or there was a problem with your car.
I like Hondas because of their reliability and low maintenance costs-have been driving them since 1990..well, up until now that is.
I wouldn't worry too much about it. If they fix it, you'll be fine. Things like this can happen to even the best cars. I think the 06-07 Accords are pretty decent.
I'm curious if you ever had them measure the brake pads during routine maintenance. They might have been able to solve the problem before the warranty ran out.
1. VCM issues V6 (no fix, dealer admits it's a problem) reason I dumped car at 20k miles. Read about that in VCM section..
2.Rear brakes only lasting 15k to 20k miles ( TSB on this) Dealer will replace for free under warranty with the new improved rear brake pad.
3. Key fobs, known issue where they have intermittent operation, (TSB on this, dealer will replace free under warranty)
Infiniti EX35 all wheel drive, got a great deal with VPP pricing and rebates.
1. Why no distinction on the Accord models--no badging for the LX Ex etc. Are we all to be alike?
2. Look closely at your front rotors--Honda spent the money to paint black the area on the rotor closest to the center---now look at your rear rotors. Were they trying to save money on the rear rotors? Looks like crap behind those nice aluminum wheels when you clean them. Front looks a lot better. Why the difference?
3. Who told Honda to put 225/50/17 aspect tires on the EX models? Has anybody else noticed the rougher ride? Maybe 2010 models will go to 225/30 tires. 60 seemed fine on my 2004 Accord but this 2009 might be my last as the ride is not what I expected. Feels like I have a sport suspension.
4. I purchased an aftermarket grille guard to protect the air conditioner condenser from road debris for my 2004. Well the 2009 has the same grille you could throw a golf ball through and I can't find a reasonably priced grill guard on Ebay---chicken wire is out of the question. Couldn't Honda make the openings slightly smaller??
5. I have the EX automatic 4 cylinder which has more horsepower than my 73 Corvette. At night with the air conditioning on why am I able to feel the compressor kicking in and see the lights dimming slightly?
I have owned 76 Civic CVCCs, 1981, 1984, 1991, 2004 and now a 2009 Accord and frankly this car is not what I was used to. Just thought I would throw some things out there for discussion. Thanks.
Never noticed the about painting the rotor hubs - but I have to admit to not spending much time manually cleaning anymore.
The bigger tires are a trend, how else to make a beached whale handle? Yeah, sporty, a bit harsh, and more vulnerable to potholes.
Could probably use a condenser protector myself, considering the big rock that bounced off the windshield today. Oh well, they might sell me a $350 rock collector at some point.
There is a whole forum of complaints about the four cylinders and the flickering (dimming) headlights. Basically to save a tiny bit of fuel economy, there are two output levels on the alternator, and the computer seems to wait until the AC is dragging it down before changing modes on the alternator. Some people even said it was so bad that other drivers thought they were flashing them. Luckily the six doesn't do this - instead it has the VCM growls and vibes. Most cars have some dimming when the AC clutches in, but I guess the addition of the second charging level made it worse. Only car I owned where I couldn't feel or hear the AC clutch in and out was a BMW 323Ci (in-line six).
The headlights on my 2008 V6 were so wimpy, a flashlight would be as good. I had to buy Phillips Extreme bulbs (DOT approved, street legal - no weird coloring) for the low beams which made a significant difference over stock.
IMHO, just another Honda cost-cutting measure. For some odd reason, Toyota hasn't done this yet, which is strange since they all drink the same cost-cutting kool-aid.
2. Look closely at your front rotors--Honda spent the money to paint black the area on the rotor closest to the center---now look at your rear rotors. Were they trying to save money on the rear rotors? Looks like crap behind those nice aluminum wheels when you clean them. Front looks a lot better. Why the difference?
Our 2010 EX-L V6 has the center area of all 4 rotors painted black, but they don't match. The front rotors are a glossy black, and the rear rotors are flat black. BTW- I had to use a flashlight to confirm this, as I couldn't even see the rotor centers without using one. They could have been pink or purple and I would never have noticed.
3. Who told Honda to put 225/50/17 aspect tires on the EX models? Has anybody else noticed the rougher ride? Maybe 2010 models will go to 225/30 tires. 60 seemed fine on my 2004 Accord but this 2009 might be my last as the ride is not what I expected. Feels like I have a sport suspension.
Personally, I like the firm ride and improved handling of our Accord compared to my neighbor's new Camry. It's one of the main reasons we bought the Accord. If the Accord handled and rode like the Camry, we wouldn't have bought it. You would have likely noticed the ride & handling differences had you taken a long test drive in the car before buying it, as it is quite noticeable. It's actually surprising to find such a sport-type suspension in a family sedan. Usually you have to pay extra for a sport suspension and we got it for free. Cool!
4. I purchased an aftermarket grille guard to protect the air conditioner condenser from road debris for my 2004. Well the 2009 has the same grille you could throw a golf ball through and I can't find a reasonably priced grill guard on Ebay---chicken wire is out of the question. Couldn't Honda make the openings slightly smaller??
This problem pretty much exists across the entire Honda product line. Having owned two Odysseys and now a Ridgeline in addition to our Accord, all of these vehicles need a lower grille with smaller holes.
Anyway, if you care to spend a bit more time on your computer, visit some Odyssey and/or Ridgeline forums and search them for possible solutions. I know Odyssey owners were VERY fond of using gutter leaf guard material (for houses) which is available at Lowes or Home Depot. The stuff is dirt cheap and is easily cut to size. Most folks seem to buy black leaf guard and attach it behind the existing grille with black tie-wraps. In some cases, bumper removal may be required, which adds a huge amount of extra labor to what should have been a simple job. Good luck with that.
2. Cabin filter costs <$20 at auto parts store and takes 5 mins to replace. Open glove box and swing it down you will see the filter location there - read the manual for further insight.
Roger
i saw this on the way home on the blackberry and couldn't believe the quote of $120 for a cabin air filter change, what a markup...
unless it includes some type of air refresher service (still unneeded)
as far as power steering fluid contamination, i have never even heard of this.
how would they tell, isnt the fluid in the resevoir only the visible fluid.
isn't this a sealed system not prone to contamination unless there is a leak or something?
i would say find a reputable dealer (i know, what an oxymoron) or independent mechanic for second opinion.
Ceramic formulation seems to really dust less.
Any one else try these out?
Thanks for the help.
http://www.bkhondaparts.com/billkay/jsp/prddisplay.jsp?catcgry1=ACCORD&catcgry2=- - 2008&catcgry3=4DR+EXL-V6&catcgry4=KA5AT&catcgry5=FRONT+FENDERS&ListAll=All&vinsr- - ch=no&systemcomp=Body%2FAir+Conditioning&prdrefno=&quantity=0&act=&count=0&hidSw- - itch=Switch&hidIrno=%7C005
then try to remove it from under the car. You might want to buy some extra clips just in case you break a few.
$120 for a cabin filter is way out of line. If they inspected it, that means they had to remove it, right? How much time would they really spend to inspect an item that may or may not get the OK to replace? It may take all of 60 seconds to remove the filter. Buy one and do it yourself, it's WAY easy. Should take about as much time as I needed to type this out! $100 for 3 minutes of work is a really good deal...for them!
Check out this website for instructions:
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=26952
You might want to think about finding another Dealer to service your car. These guys are going to try to bleed you dry.
It's bad enough that the car has terrible gas mileage (18 city/24 highway/19 mixed). :lemon:
It's worse that the car suffers from rattles and squeaks from the center console that every little bump jars and rattles the center console (of which they say they cannot tighten or fix any more than what has been done). :lemon:
It's much worse that the car has a terrible suspension system where the back end bottoms out when going over a speed bump or every rut in the road just pounds the car into submission (further complicating all the rattles in the dash and center console). :lemon:
Now, it seems like either there are problems with the tires or alignment when the car is pulling badly to the right no matter what lane I'm in, and the steering wheel vibrates terribly at any speed over 30mph. (Probably meaning new tires and an alignment at 24K miles!). :lemon:
I've lived and breathed Honda over the years. I've owned 2 Civics, 3 Accords, 2 Odysseys, a Ridgeline and a CRV. This Accord is the worst car I've ever owned and that includes a Ford Windstar and Mecury Tracer.
I just test drove a 2010 Civic EX sedan over the weekend and was more impressed with it than my Accord. I took the Civic through the same streets that I normally drive and the Civic had more pickup, was more enthusiastic to drive, absorbed bumps better, had quieter tires, and didn't have any rattles or squeaks. All in all, it was a marked improvement.
Rather than face spending $800-$1000 on new tires and an alignment on a car that I can no longer stand, it's time to just be done with this insanity.
I will never buy another 1st year model again, ever! And from what I've been reading, it just seems that this generation Accord is an overall dud in general.
The only positive thing I can say about my Accord is that it appears to be able to fetch a decent resale value!! So with that I will say goodbye to my Accord and hello to a 2010 Civic. I'll miss my Automatic Climate Control and XM Radio, but will enjoy the iPOD USB controls and overall general driving improvements (and hopefully gas mileage improvements) that the Civic will offer.
Goodbye 2008 Accord, I wish I had never knew thee............ :lemon:
If you know anything at all, about Honda automatic transmissions, you would know power flushing them is a BIG NO NO. An experienced Honda tech told me that replacing the steering fluid in the reseviour would help keep it fresh, and be much easier to do than the flush method in the Honda/Helm manual. There is no real maintenance interval for flushing the power steering fluid, I just like to keep it as fresh as possible. If the fluid was really bad, in so few miles, I think there is more wrong than a fluid change would fix. The common problem with the Accord's power steering, is a leak on the pump inlet pipe (o-ring), where the pump sucks in air and dirt into the system. This will also cause a moaning/ wining sound when the engine is cold.
This kind of machine would be ok. It's the "power" flush that will force metal shavings into the small passages in a Honda automatic, where they can clog things up. I had a 92EX Sedan automatic for 12 years, and now I have an 03 Ex V6 automatic.
I like to do my own maintenance, and any repairs I can handle. I don't have a friend, who works at a dealership , so I change the transmission fluid the old fashioned way. Drain and fill, with 3 quarts, as many times as necessary. I change out 3 quarts, every 15k miles, and the fluid stays pretty clean (changed the filter at 60k). I plan to have the 03 for 15 years, if it keeps up the reliability it has for the first 7.
I have had issues in the past with front plates and automatic car wash brushes trying to rip them off.
Luckily I moved back to PA from OH and could ditch the thing.
Anyone's recommendation for an Internet source of Honda parts, would be much appreciated
Small rattles are really bugging me now, but other than that, the car is solid. Oh yeah, the Michelins it came with sucked. Toast by 27K on the front. They also had no wet pavement grip. Went with a set of 225/50R-17 BFGoodrich g-Force from Tire Rack. Awesome in wet and dry weather. Can't wait to try them in the snow....
Many, many people are having issues with the front brakes on the 8th gen Accords. The rotors get an uneven buildup of pad material and it causes a "judder" when braking. Many people refer to it as warped rotors.
My 08 Accord EX had the front rotors resurfaced twice with only short term success. I finally tossed all 4 OEM rotors and all 4 sets of OEM pads in the trash can and installed aftermarket parts.
Problems solved.