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Finally got cold enough to use the heater at full blast to warm up the car as we drove. At the three highest fan speeds there is a whistle or hiss that is audible. Not terrible, but definately there.
We took it in and they replaced the fan motor. Didn't solve the problem. They called Honda and they had not heard of this problem. The shop wanted to take the dash all apart and "look for the problem", but I have waited on that so far, as I don't want any new rattles from dismantling the dash.
Here is the info I have on the problem:
Whistle or hiss to me sounds like a leak in a duct or something??
But, it doesn't occur with AC is on, even if it is at full blast fan
It only occurs when heat is on and above 70 degrees
The whislte gets louder and louder from mid speed to max fan speed
The whislte gets louder and louder from 70 degree all the way to HIGH.
Any help/advice is appreciated!
In any event, if it comes to it, it may be best to sell the car back to the dealer at a small loss -- better than wasting time and money on other legal remedies. But, don't forget that you may eventually qualify for relief under your state's lemon law . . :lemon: . Just keep close track of the number of days your car is in the shop and out of service. Also, document the number of times the dealership attempts to fix the problems you are having. DO NOT rely on the dealership to do this for you!!! Each state's lemon law varies, but you might have a look at the one in your state so that you are familiar with exactly what circumstances will allow you to demand relief. You can obtain summaries of each state's lemon law on various consumer protection web sites or, often, on your state's attorney general's web site (they usually have a consumer protection division). Good Luck!
[p.s. in my experience, I have never seen a dealership actually buy back a car at anything close to a fair price. Plus, they really don't have to. It is generally not the dealership which is on the hook for a defective vehicle . . its the manufacturer (or in some cases, their licensed distributors). If you are dealing with a dealership that will, kudos to the dealership.. . . you must be buying Ferrari's from their sister company. . . they want your business! ]
Page 58 of the 2008 Accord Sedan Owner's Manual States:
Vehicle Stability Assist (VSA) System Indicator
This indicator normally comes on for a few seconds when you turn the ignition switch to the ON (II) position.
If it comes on and stays on at any other time, or if it does not come on when you turn the ignition switch to the ON (II) position, there is a problem with the VSA system. Take your vehicle to a dealer to have it checked. Without VSA, your vehicle still has normal driving ability, but will not have VSA traction and stability enhancement. See page 293 for more information on the VSA system.
VSA Activation Indicator
This indicator has three functions:
1. It comes on as a reminder that you have turned off the vehicle stability assist (VSA) system.
2. It flashes when VSA is active (see page 293).
3. It comes on along with the VSA system indicator if there is a problem with the VSA system.
This indicator normally comes on for a few seconds when you turn the ignition switch to the ON (II) position. For more information, see page 293.
Pages 293 and 294 of the 2008 Accord Sedan Owner's Manual state:
Vehicle Stability Assist (VSA) System
The vehicle stability assist (VSA) system helps to stabilize the vehicle during cornering if the vehicle turns more or less than desired. It also assists you in maintaining traction while accelerating on loose or slippery road surfaces. It does this by regulating the engine’s output and by selectively applying the brakes.
When VSA activates, you may notice that the engine does not respond to the accelerator in the same way it does at other times. There may also be some noise from the VSA hydraulic system. You will also see the VSA activation indicator blink.
The VSA system cannot enhance the vehicle’s driving stability in all situations and does not control your vehicle’s entire braking system. It is still your responsibility to drive and corner at reasonable speeds and to leave a sufficient margin of safety.
VSA Activation Indicator
When VSA activates, you will see the VSA activation indicator blink.
Vehicle Stability Assist (VSA) System Indicator
If this indicator comes on while driving, pull to the side of the road when it is safe, and turn off the engine. Reset the system by restarting the engine. If the VSA system indicator stays on or comes back on while driving, have the VSA system inspected by your dealer.
If the indicator does not come on when the ignition switch is turned to the ON (II) position, there may be a problem with the VSA system. Have your dealer inspect your vehicle as soon as possible.
If the low tire pressure indicator or TPMS indicator comes on, the VSA system automatically turns on even if the VSA system is turned off by pressing the VSA OFF switch (see page ). If this happens, you cannot turn the VSA system off by pressing the VSA off switch again. Without VSA, your vehicle will have normal braking and cornering ability, but it will not have VSA traction and stability enhancement.
VSA Off Switch
This switch is under the driver’s side vent. To turn the VSA system on and off, press and hold it until you hear a beep. When VSA is off, the VSA activation indicator comes on as a reminder. Press and hold the switch again. It turns the system back on.
VSA is turned on every time you start the engine, even if you turned it off the last time you drove the vehicle.
In certain unusual conditions when your vehicle gets stuck in shallow mud or fresh snow, it may be easier to free it with the VSA temporarily switched off. When the VSA system is off, the traction control system is also off. You should only attempt to free your vehicle with the VSA off if you are not able to free it when the VSA is on.
Immediately after freeing your vehicle, be sure to switch the VSA on again. We do not recommend driving your vehicle with the VSA and traction control systems switched off.
VSA and Tire Sizes
Driving with varying tire or wheel sizes may cause the VSA to malfunction. When replacing tires, make sure they are of the same size and type as your original tires (see page 348).
If you install winter tires, make sure they are the same size as those that were originally supplied with your vehicle. Exercise the same caution during winter driving as you would if your vehicle was not equipped with VSA.
http://collegehillshonda.com/instructions/8thgenaccsedan/remotestart.pdf
I've been hanging around this site for a few weeks getting information on different cars and road/cabin noise has been mentioned several times. The undercoating is essentiall soundproofing and rust protection which must be applied when the car is new, i have to make a decision.
Comments please on the value of undercoating. My wife wanted the Avalon because it has a very quiet ride & I would like to a quiet ride too.
Feedback please.
All cars today have excellent factory-applied soundproofing / undercoating material.
Paint protection is an overpriced wax job.
Overpriced interior protection is today's equivalent of appication of a $6 spray can of Scotchgard.
Save your money and enjoy your new wheels.
Here in Canada undercoating would also protect against road salt corrosion.
On the down side, I was told that in a cold climate the undercoating can crack and could moisture gets trapped inside which make the corrosion problem worse. Probably I would want a tar like substance that doesn't get hard.
Thanks for the feedback, I certainly won't get the paint protectin and interior protection systems. The question become does undercoating actually help reduce noise and would I notice the difference?
http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m0BUZ/is_1999_Annual/ai_56203071
There is a possibility that it could accelerate corrosion due to water getting trapped between the costing and metal when the coating cracks or chips. Just my $0.02!!
You didn't indicate which Accord you own, but from what I've read, the system fits LX-P, EX and EX-L Automatic Transmission models only and is not for LX or LX-S models.
Try these companies. I've dealt with the first two and was pleased with them.
http://collegehillshonda.com/honda_accord_4dr_accessories/2008_accord_electronic- - - s.htm
http://www.handaaccessories.com/accord08.html
http://www.bernardiparts.com/
I just tried this setting on mine and it worked no problem. I think I know why its not working on yours. If you read those instructions, it says to put the key to the ON (II) position. But in the associated diagram, they show you the key in the accessory position (I). So you are probably doing this procedure with the key in position (I) which doesn't work. Turn the key two clicks to position (II). Then when you hold down the door unlock button, you need to wait for a total of 3 clicks. The initial click, pause, 2nd click, pause, 3rd click. Then turn the ignition to off position within 5 seconds to complete the procedure. If you do it that way it should work.
its an upsell , I wouldn't do it.....
I just wish that the option had been available for the 2004's. I've been annoyed with the inability to automatically unlock EITHER of my ACCORD coupe's doors without pressing the button since December 2003. I considered it to be a potential safety hazard.
Thanks again for the response. All's well... and the wife is now happy. It's her car.
I just picked up my new EX-L (4cyl) yesterday. While driving it last night I noticed that the head lights occasionally dim or flicker. My wife didn't really notice it and it didn't appear to have anything to do with going over bumps, etc. I was just curious if anyone has noticed anything similar.
Thanks,
Alex
I turned off the VSA and it become normal.
Why VSA cause more problem, it should help to stabilize the vehicle than cause vibration?
I'm definitely going to have this checked, but I just wanna bring this up for some advice, suggestions, feedback.
This started about a week ago. Everytime I punch the gas pedal, my 08 Coupe makes this weird buzzing/humming sound that gets louder with speed. It sounds almost like a mixture of buzzing, crackling, and humming, and it seems to originate from the center part of the top of the dash. It usually happens at speeds higher than 40 mph. The sound itself is extremely noticeable when there is no music in the car, but it can be drowned out by cranking up the radio/cd volume about halfway or so. The noise doesn't come up when the car is running idle.
Important tidbit: This problem started to occur right after I had the ambient interior lighting accessory installed at the dealership.
I don't plan to take it to that dealership again to have it looked at because it's too far from my home and the place seemed kinda dirty/messy/unorganized; as such, I'll take it to a local dealership 10 minutes from me.
So have you guys heard of this noise before or have any idea what may be causing it?
Also, is it advisable to go to a different dealership from the one that installed my interior lighting?
The local dealership may say the same thing since it wasn't installed at the factory, even though it may be a Honda component.
BTW - I bought the 98 remodeled Accord when it was first released -- never had a problem with it either! I'm not sure the old rule "never buy the first model year" applies to Honda. I speak from experience . . . .
You should be aware that masks (bras) tend to accumulate fine particles of debris (sand, dust, etc.) along their edges and could lead to scratching of the paint due to wind vibration.
1) In stop and go traffic the fan comes on often and dims the lights. It's also a little loud.
2) The car does not start instantly like my previous Accord. Not a big deal just the starter has to work twice as hard.
3) When I first start the car it idles fast. I know all cars do this now but my 96 Accord didn't and since I leave early noise in an issue.
4) A bit of a transmission wine at low speeds, though this seems to be less now that my car has 600 miles on it.
Other than the above the car is excellent. Hopefully it will get me past 200K like my last Accord.
Thanks