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I don't know why your car is getting bad mileage; since it's an I4, it should be identical with the other I4 Sonatas. Maybe you're just driving more aggressively?
I'm a bit surprised about the I4 SE, though... I thought most SEs were V6 by default.
That sounds like unprofessional behavior to me.
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Went to owner and asked him to come up with options. Day three no options yet, driving a loaner.
Concerned about this issue being the beginning of more problems. Other owners have problems? Any recalls? Ideas?
Certainly our time is worth something, even if they do try to accomodate us for their (?) inadequacies. I realize the local dealers have to put up with many problems that are not really theirs, but they aren't ours either, but we are the ones that suffer for the misuse or lack thereof of our time. Sometimes it seems that no-one is able to win, and we all lose. My personal opinion.
Van
that said, this evening i was quoted 23,000+title+tags from the local dealer based on 0 down, 0 financing for 72 months. i left the car there and will be getting back to him on monday. i used all the negotiating skills i learned here and on other sites to get him to commit to this number.
i was hoping you guys could provide some feedback regarding this offer. thanks in advance.
I am looking at buying a used 2010 Hyundai Sonata GLS auto.
1) I plan to email several dealers and ask for the OTD cost, but it’s not as straight forward with used cars. Is there a method dealers used to price cars based on mileage? In other words, how do I know it’s a good deal with X amount of mileage? I am looking at cars in the Western suburbs of Chicago. Most online prices are from $13000 to $15000 for a car in the low 20,000 mile range. I view this as the dealer’s price, but I’m not sure what my starting price should be .
2) I’m looking at a 100 mile radius. Most of the posters mentioned they took the car back to the dealer. Is it not advisable to buy from one dealer but get the car serviced at a different dealer? I won’t drive 100 miles to get the car service, but I’m wondering should I reduce my search area.
3) Is there a website that shows the exterior and interior color combination that are available in the market? I visited a couple websites. They list all the interior and exterior colors, but it’s not clear if all the colors are available in any combination. I haven’t found that to be the case with the cars I have seen online. I’m looking for a gray interior. The preferred exterior is med silver blue.
4) Lastly, is it true the doors can be programmed to unlock once I grabbed the handle and not when the car is placed in park. I don’t understand why car companies make that a default setting. Will changing the setting result in more problems since it is not standard? How much does this service normally cost?
I went 200 miles to get my car knowing full well I'd have to take it to a local dealer for any problems. I didn't let that deter me from finding the best price and it shouldn't be a problem at all.
As far as I know, each exterior color comes with two interior combinations. Mine came with either gray or tan and we definitely preferred the gray.
Can't answer #4.
A local tire shop replaced both front tires. I'm guessing they switched the wheels back because it was pulling right again after they were mounted. The next oil change the dealer switched them back for me with the same result, no right pull but now a slight left pull.
Now the problem is the dealer still says it's a bad tire. I can't buy that having two brand new tires on the front doing exactly the same thing as the old ones.
It's obviously something to do with the wheels and not the suspension or alignment since it changes with the side to side rotation. I asked the dealer if it could be a bad rim and he said no. I find that hard to buy also. What else is there excpet the tire and rim? If it ain't one, it has to be the other, right?
I'd appreciate some opinions and suggestions. Am I thinking wrong here? Am I missing something? I'd like to go back to the dealer with some reliable information about how to get this fixed.
Thanks,
Dave
- rule out the road - and include crown and groving and driving direction; make notes, be deatiled so you can tell both dlr and Michelin your findings. Prove to them you have been conscientious.
- cross, side and headwinds
- tire psi
- confirm knife edge on the original suspect tire by drawing your hand across the tread at right angles to tire rotation. Feel any edge at all in either direction? You should not.
- confirm if anyone else drives the car whether they hit anything; a curb, road debris , pothole etc
- insist that your dealer MECHANIC NOT SERVICE MGR - be in direct contact with Michelin. this rules out he said/she said and miscommunication.
- is your test with same number of passengers? Is there a 300+lb person at times throwing off test consistency? Best to do test alone with zero passengers and empty trunk.
The Sandman :sick: :shades:
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
tell us what else you like or dislike or are indifferent to?
As a result this enabled me to buy an extended (3rd party) bumper-to-bumper warrenty to 4 years / 100K miles for an additonal $1000.
Another sign that Sonata prices are on the upswing. The last time I looked at buying a new Sonata, a 2009 (same car as the 2010), I got a quote of $14,500 for a new GLS. I decided to pass on it though. But I was sorely tempted...
Question; do all GLS V6 models (2009) come with PEP/moonroof? All I looked at had the moonroof.
Talking of prices... I looked for 2007 GLSes (like mine) within 50 miles of me, and there's only 8, and the price of one with about the same miles as what I got a year ago is about the same price as it was then! Used cars have definitely shot up. I'm glad I'm set for a couple of years with cars.
i guess they don't use that acronym in Cda
Have been tossing around the idea lately of getting a used Lexus RX for the power seat/higher seating position, but after much thought & deliberation, and talking with my oldest girl, have decided to just stay put. Once retirement kicks in January 3rd, not sure if I want something new. Just hit 30k on the '06 Civic LX yesterday and it's still a very tight car & drives like the day I drove off the lot. My annual driving will be going down to maybe 3k/year, so why buy anything. I can easily go another 6 or 7 years & be in the lower 50k mileage area with only minimal $ spent on it so why not just stay on course & keep my current ride. Besides the wife is gonna but either a 2011 or 2012 anyways.
The Sandman :sick: :shades:
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
I still really really like the car. It's tighter rattle-wise than my Accord was at the same miles, which is a big victory to my OCD ears. The V6 power will really surprise you when you aren't prepared for it; I'm still used to laying on the throttle from the 4-cyl on the highway; in the V6, just a part-throttle push will usually do the trick. I did a lot of in-town driving this weekend and averaged 24 (as many city miles as interstate, but of course much more time spent in city driving and Costco-style parking lots). On the interstate, at 70, the car will do 32 MPG in moderately hilly Alabama.
The quiet of the car at speed is most welcome with four people trying to converse on the interstate; hard to do in a Honda. The Honda was more fun to drive, without doubt, but the Sonata is definitely the better highway car. It also has a softer-throttle tip-in and more gentle brake modulation, making it the better car in heavy traffic, to me.
One way to check if the car is getting the fuel economy it should is to find a flat stretch of open highway with little traffic, so you can maintain a steady speed. This drive should be several miles. Then warm up the engine and as you start cruising at a fixed speed, reset the mpg meter. Keep the speed at the limit, and try to use a light foot on the pedal (or use cruise control). Be sure you are in 5th gear. If the speed limit is 55-60, you should easily hit the EPA highway rating for the car--actually you should exceed it. At 65-70, you should still be able to hit the EPA rating. Above 70, you should still get WELL over the 23 mpg you are getting now.
If you don't get results like that on this test, and the tire pressures are correct and weather is not real cold, I'd say there's something that needs to be checked by the dealer.
The interesting thing about the whistle is I remember distinctly that one of the justifications HMA made for the 2006-10 USA-spec Sonata not having folding mirrors was to reduce wind noise. I always suspected that was balderdash, and real reason was that fixed mirrors are less expensive.