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Buick LeSabre Heating / Cooling

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  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,394
    Has the blower motor been replaced? Otherwise it sounds like a contact in a connector somewhere along the line. That would require tracing and checking them all.

    I recall someone who had an erratic blower motor on the same type car after 2000+
    and he tookthe motor apart and found a contact was not quite long enough inside the motor. He rebuilt the contact and it worked happily ever after. He felt the motor itself was poorly engineered and that led to the contact wearing too much too early.

    He hiimself is an engineer.

    That story is why I asked if you had replaced the blower motor. It's inside the car and removed from under the passenger side of the dash. If I recall it has 5 or so screws holding it in place and comes out with a tight fit but is doable.
  • No, the blower motor has not been replaced.

    I'm disappointed that the Buick technicians have not been able to repair the problem.

    Is there some place I can check to see if other owners have the same problem?
  • 1994 Buick LeSabre Custom AC/Heater Fan will not work.Manual control system. We took out the inside control the fan will not work. Mechanic had an old one from junk yard the fan worked but no other buttons worked on that unit, I bought a new fan control switch we put that in and it still did not work! All the lights light up on the control except the fan control. What can the problem be???
  • taa36taa36 Posts: 1
    I changed my battery then my heater quit working on my 98 buick lesaber, the heater display flashes and no heat comes out, fan still works but dose not blow through vents. Can anyone help??? thanks
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,394
    Is the air coming out the defroster vents?

    That would indicate there's a vacuum problem. When there's no vacuum the default is defrost for safety to be able to clear the windshield.

    You can check the vacuum line (black plastic, 1/4 in) that goes to the vacuum tank in front of the right front wheel behind the headlights. You have to be on the gound looking up to find it. With the motor on or just turned off pulling off the connector should give a whoosh as air rushes in. It should hold vacuum for 30 seconds after motor is off (or more).

    You should be able to switch buttons on the controls inside with the motor running and hear the vanes inside the box move; same if motor just turned off so it's easier to hear the movement noises.

    The flashing is most likely because you didn't turn off the heater controls with the switch ON before you disconnected the battery. The unit does a check for positions of the vanes and it probably cracked the actuator gears as it went full off and then full on.

    BUT first find the vacuum. The source is next to the big hose that goes to the brake booster on the firewall; the big hose connects to the intake manifold on the backside and if I recall the little tube connects beside it. Follow that black plastic vacuum tube to the Y connector next to the AC dryer. You may have to take off the cover over the relay center that has a couple of clips holding it; it covers the area you want to look at. The vacuum line runs through bundles with the electrical wires so you can't see it all.

    The Y sends the line to the vacuum storage up front and the other side goes to the inside of the car. Most likely your problem is in the front of the car, not inside.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,394
    I'd need to check a factory service manual but there is a relay on the firewall for the high speed only power to the blower fan. There is a relay for the interior, lower three speeds--I believe, don't hold me to that.

    You really need to see a factory service manual.

    If you have a library that's part of a fairly good one, call to see if they have AllData on their library computers. Our county-wide system does, but it's not accessible from home computers like most of the databases and info services. I have to go to the local branch and use their terminal. I can save pages and pictures onto my USB memory stick. I can print out things there if I want.

    You can buy factory service manuals used that are authentic Helm GM manuals on Ebay, but you need to do some comparisons from year to year and seller to determine what's the real appearance of the Helm manual for that year.

    They are available new form helminc.com for about $125.

    You need to find out where power for the buttons is supplied through what fuses and relays.
  • Hi,

    This past summer I had to replace the manual AC/Heater Control Unit C-60 with rear window defogger switch. I found a used one on ebay. I finally had AC but now I find that the defrost isn't that strong or hot and the defogger switch doesn't work.
    My heat works fine.

    I know that the control panel only controls the fan, but did the mechanic do something with the temperature or is it just an old car wearing down?

    I am having a hard time finding info and was told that I can replace just the defogger switch and that it plugs into the new controls. Is this correct and do you have a part number or photo? Or do I have to replace the whole thing again?

    Since the parts are no longer available, no one seems to be able to find part numbers on computers. Hope you can help me.

    Thanks.
  • I have been having heating problems all winter with the heater. It will blow hot air when it wonts to then right back to cold and back and forth.My heater fan is fine. I have flushed to heater core, put new thermostat in changed the coolant nothing helps. My ignition switch was acting up the car wouldn't start some times ma by take 50 trys and then start. I instiled new crank sensor not the problem. So I had a new key made $21.45 so that fixed the cranking problem.

    I cant figure out the heating problem. I have worked on my on cars all my life 35 years now days thy are getting complicated.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,394
    How many miles on the car?
    Which HVAC system does it have?
    Has the water pump been replaced?
    Which type of coolant has been in it?
    When it's running and the fan is on HIGH, and you touch both heater hoses next tot he firewall, are they nearly the same temperature or is one noticeably cooler?
  • How many miles on the car? Yes
    Which HVAC system does it have? I dont know
    Has the water pump been replaced? Not by me, the car dont get hot
    Which type of coolant has been in it? Regular antifreeze
    When it's running and the fan is on HIGH, and you touch both heater hoses next tot he firewall, are they nearly the same temperature or is one noticeably cooler? Yes. I have flushed the heater core nothing came out but clean water. I replaced the thermostat put in new antifreeze. The heather will blow hot air for a little while then right back to cold and keep doing this. Sometimes it will stay warm for a good while then right back to cold air. Thanks for any information. Michael

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  • I for got 177,000 miles
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,394
    How many miles on the car? 177,000

    Which HVAC system does it have?
    Does it have a digital readout with numbers? IF so, the actuator motor that moves the temperature vanes inside may be broken and moving the vanes that direct how much air goes over the heater core wrong.

    Has the water pump been replaced?
    The water pump may have not be working well due to corrosion of the vanes.

    Which type of coolant has been in it?
    If it had DexCool in it and it had not been changed every 2-3 years or someone added the old type green antifreeze, the DexCool may have been deteriorated and it forms a sludge that can block things.

    When it's running and the fan is on HIGH, and you touch both heater hoses next tot he firewall, are they nearly the same temperature or is one noticeably cooler?
    This is a symptom of a clogged heater core or poor circulation.

    One thing is that you might have an air pocket in the heater core.
    After draining antifreeze, when car is at full temperature after being driven 10 minutes or so, run the motor at 2500 rpm for 10 seconds, idle, then repeat up to 5 times. This will move the air out of the heater core.

    Check to be sure coolant in the radiator is at full level up to the cap.
  • My heater suddenly only blows warm air. Sliding the temperature control to cold does nothing. Where do I start troubleshooting this? Thanks for your help.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,394
    Is it automatic temp control with the digital temperature readout or is it manual temperature control where you slide a lever?

    Either way you're looking under the dash for an actuator arm that moves a vane inside the heater box. Take off the hush panel under the passenger side. I suggest taking off the glovebox door with about 5 more screws on the hinge. You'll be able to see this

    link title

    and you're looking for white arm on top of the box, I believe, if it's manual. If it's automatic it has that arm for the driver and the lower arm for the passenger. the lower arm comes out just to the right of the bottom screw marked by two red lines in picture.

    Look for both of these arms to move if you turn key ON and change the temperature settings and wait a few seconds>

    BTW if auto, does the passenger temp change when pressing buttons on the passenger temp control?
  • Some info for those experiencing this problem: (Limited with Auto A/C controls)

    Check the vacuum tank connector and tubing behind the front bumper area on the passenger side. While working on my Mom's car trying to fix this problem, I removed the connector from the vacuum tank and it snapped off the tubing instantly. The tubing had become brittle and I believe was leaking vacuum, causing the actuators to not move in their full motion. I reamed out the old tubing stuck in the connector with successively larger drill bits (cordless drill on low speed), then inserted the existing tubing back into the connector. I pushed it back onto the vacuum tank fitting, started the car and the dash vents (MID setting) were again blowing air.

    The vacuum tank is clearly visible in front of the passenger tire and behind the bumper. It's about a 4" diameter black tank with black tubing connected to the front of it. I stuck my head under the car about a foot without the need to jack it up. Be careful pulling off the connector to inspect it. The vacuum tank appears to be made of pvc and the fitting on it may be brittle also.

    I did this after pulling the programmer from behind the glove box and testing the solenoids and tubing. All appeared to be functioning normally. I then observed the vacuum actuators behind the dash (looking up from underneath the dash) as my wife pushed various buttons on the A/C control unit. The actuator arms moved, but only maybe 1/4" or so. After the vacuum connector was fixed, the actuator arms moved a good 1"-2". Short actuator arm movement would be a good indication of a vacuum leak.

    Hope this info helps somebody. It took all of 2 minutes to check the connector and 5 minutes to fix it after it snapped off. A lot easier than taking off the glove box and programmer unit!

    Good Luck -
    RangerDave19
  • It is manual temperature control, not auto.

    So far, I've found the actuator and it's linkage and watched it while I moved the temperature control and nothing happens.

    So now I need to know how to test the temp. control and how to check the actuator.

    Thanks for your help!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,394
    Is this what your actuator looks like?

    image

    this part is used in these cars in manual AC units.

    BUICK LESABRE 1999
    BUICK LESABRE CUSTOM (1992 - 1998)
    BUICK LESABRE LIMITED (1992 - 1998)
    BUICK PARK AVENUE (1991 - 1996)
    BUICK PARK AVENUE ULTRA (1991 - 1996)
    OLDSMOBILE 88 1999
    OLDSMOBILE 88 ROYALE (1994 - 1998)
    OLDSMOBILE 88 ROYALE LS (1994 - 1998)
    OLDSMOBILE 88 ROYALE LSS 1995
    OLDSMOBILE 98 REGENCY (1992 - 1994)
    OLDSMOBILE 98 REGENCY ELITE (1992 - 1996)
    OLDSMOBILE 98 REGENCY TOURING (1992 - 1993)
    OLDSMOBILE LSS (1996 - 1999)
    OLDSMOBILE REGENCY (1997 - 1998)
  • I haven't pulled it out yet so I'm not sure if it is like that. The top certainly looks correct. Mine has a linkage that connects to another white lever. I pushed and pulled on this gently while moving the temperature control slider but it would not move. I also tried tapping on it with a screwdriver but still now movement.

    I'll try to pull it off tonight if I get a chance.

    Thanks for your help!
  • I fixed the problem! It was the temperature control module . . . the part on the dash with the buttons and the slider. I noticed that I could move the actuator when the key was turned off, but when you turned the key on, the actuator would move back into the same "half heat/half cool" position. A trip to my local salvage yard and $25 later, my problem was fixed!

    Thanks to all who posted and helped me with this!
  • I recently purchased a 1995 Buick Lesabre Limited with 150k miles on it and an automatic climate control unit. The air will not blow at all on any setting, but the control unit in the car works. A friend said that there appears to be no electricity going to the blower motor(He used an electrical meter) when I changed the tempature settings in the car. He said it could be the climate control unit in the car or a fuse but I do not have the fuse panel cover so I do not know where the fuse is located. I would greatly appreciate any advice and advice about where to find a fuse panel cover or diagram.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,394
    If it's automatic fan speed control or manual but has the digital readout, then your problem most likely is the blower control module.

    The check is to take the leads from the blower motor and apply direct battery power through a fuse--please use a fuse-- and see if the motor works. They do die.

    Then follow the leads from the blower motor up to the left to the top of the channel that the air goes through from the blower. On top of this boxy channel is the end of an electronic power transistor that controls the blower speed. The circuit board part sticks down into the air stream inside the box for cooling.

    You can access this by removing two screws that hold the Relay Center to the firewall above it. The wires to the Relay Center have enough give to move it up some and allows access to the screws holding the blower control module.

    You can buy modules at rockauto.com, gmpartsdirect.com, and other parts stores. You also can use recycled from wrecked cars. Just check the parts numbers. Or search on car-parts.com; you'll see the interchangeable ones from other cars.

    image

    image
  • elaineeelainee Posts: 2
    I think I have the same problem with my blower motor. The air coming from my AC is cool, and the defrost works when I am driving because enough air comes through the vents, but the blower started working intermittently some months ago. Sometimes it would come on after I had driven a while, and then I noticed I could hit a bump and the blower would come on, sometimes. Then I found that closing the passenger door would start the blower, and this worked for a while. Yesterday, I noticed that the fan would start weakly and then gradually build in strenght, but then it began weakening and then quit. Bumps and slamming doors do not seem to be able to revive it now. I have priced blowers, but someone said it may not be the blower. It might be a loose wire or a sensor. I don't want to buy something I don't need. What do you think? Do I need a blower, a sensor, or simply some wires reattached?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,394
    If yours is 92-99 leSabre, then your blwoer motor is under the hood on the firewall between the motor and the passenger comartment.

    You can test it by using a FUSED wire from the battery along with the ground wire and disconnecting the power to the blower and substituting the power leads from your battery. If it runs fine then, your problem is the blower motor control module or resistor pack or a connection.

    Most likely it's the blower motor has worn out. There are 5 screws holding it, more or less, and it comes out toward the motor and can be wiggled out. Some people push the car forward in park and block the rear wheels which twists the motor slightly forward leaving a little more room.

    Replacement motors for those years are relatively cheap at various stores or rockauto.com.
  • elaineeelainee Posts: 2
    My car is a 2003. Where is the blower in that model?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,394
    It's under the dash inside the car. Take off the hush panel above the passenger's feet.

    The motor end of the fan is down. The squirrel cage rotates in a horizontal plane. There is a connector that some people have found had poor or burned contacts. it's the one for the fan that leads to it.

    Most like the fan is toast. The brushes inside the fan and commutator wear fast. Poor supplier quality.

    Remove the carpet on the firewall by pulling it down toward the seat. You'll need the extra room. REmove three screws from fan holding it in place. Then Wiggle it out.

    Replacement should go in similarly.
  • soonerdewsoonerdew Posts: 25
    Greetings, all.

    The blower motor on my 2004 Lesabre Ltd stopped working with essentially no warning. The electronic A/C control indicates it is telling the fan at what speed to operate, but no air is coming out.

    I have researched to the point that I suspect the blower motor and the blower control module. However, getting to the module requires I move the Dash Integration Module off its mounting bracket. I can't tell how the module is mounted to the bracket, so I don't know how to remove it.

    I have removed the blower motor, and observe that it has s three-pronged connector, and that the motor label indicates it expects 14V. Is there a schematic around that could tell me which two prongs are getting the voltage, so I could test the power @ the connector? I hand-rotate the cage on the blower, and it seems to spin without resistance, but I obviously have no reference of how freely a known-good motor should spin.

    I would appreciate any additional advice anyone might have on this issue. It appears I can order an aftermarket blower from eBay for about $60, and a control module for about $90, but if someone has some info that might suggest another course of action would be appropriate, I'd be more than grateful. It appears my aunt and uncle, who have a 2001 Lesabre, spent some $700 getting this same issue fixed at nearly identical mileage (approx 67K) :(

    Thanks in advance
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,394
    Did the blower motor stop at once, or did it not work until the car hit a bump which vibrated it so that the commutator and brushes made contact again. There has been a wear problem with the brushes on some cars.

    There also is a problem on some, but I believe earlier than your year, where the ground strap from the armature loses contact with the housing. People lengthen that lead to ensure good contact. Some people have taken apart the working end of the motor to inspect the brushes and the contact--if you have electrical knowledge, you may be able to do that. It sounds like you're dedicated to replacing it if you mess it up by disassembling.

    A quick check of my 03 service manual shows A and B as the leads for the motor which are black and purple. C which is brown is a flange ground that goes back to the blower control module.

    The blower motor controll processor (the name for the blower control module) is held on by a screw at the top of the box. There's nothing else in front of it.

    Is your HVAC the dual temp with digital readout?

    The manual system may be different.
  • soonerdewsoonerdew Posts: 25
    I drove the car to work in the morning, on highways, and the fan was working; got in the car that afternoon, and it wasn't. Was in the driveway when I changed a fuse, which was by my observation wasn't blown, but I replaced it anyway. Started car, no fan immediately, then after perhaps 30 seconds, the fan ran. The fan started with the car on two successive restarts, again sitting on the driveway (no bumps), then on a third restart was dead again.

    That's led me to pulling the fan out, and trying to get the module out. The control system is the integrated electronic panel with digital display.
  • soonerdewsoonerdew Posts: 25
    I have discussed my symptoms with a tech from a dealer that formerly sold and serviced Buicks, and he has strongly suggested that I replace the blower motor rather than the control module. He agreed with the likelihood that the motor has developed a "dead spot" similar to that which arises in some starter solenoids. He obviously cannot guarantee that is the problem, but he felt that was a much higher probability than the control module.

    I will be looking at an aftermarket blower, because the local GM dealer wants $300 for a replacement. I think not.
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