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For the longest time the drivers side door speaker audio was not working and I had assumed that it had gone out. Then by coincidence I happed to notice the following set of unusual electrical quirks as it peratined to the speaker and the apparent intermittent problem of coming on at extremely low volume.
The first procedure was to check L-R audio balance. When adjusting all the way over to L, I found that the L side speaker audio level was working but the volume was low to just barely non-existant. - R side was fine.
This is where all the unusual electrical quirks come into play if and when the speaker works at it's proper volume. It just so happened that I was having 3 separate issues occur when the L side speaker volume would be non-existant or just barely noticeable.
The:
Daytime Running Lamp chime for on/off operation would not work all the time.
Chime for leaving the Turn Signal on to long would not work all the time.
Low Fuel Indicator Chime would not work all the time. (low fuel light works fine)
The strange thing is that when all the above do work, the speaker comes on and works just fine. The only distinct correlation I've found when everything is working properly is that on summer days when the outside tempurature is 90 degrees or above or the car sets long enough in the heat everything works as it should. During cooler days sometimes it worked sometimes not. Just so very intermittent.
Have not taken it to a dealer as of yet because I fear it will be a control module or
sensor of some sort and the cost for the fix will be outrageous.
Any thoughts would be helpful.
Also, seem to have the problems when it is really cold/wet. Now that we are getting into winter, we will see what happens. I will keep in mind some of the other responses regarding the connectors to the computers being corroded, etc.
Once you do this and adjust the sound all the way over to the left, you'll should here a faint chiming when, for instance, you leave the keys in the ignition with the door open. So the chimes do work.
I am guessing mine is a bad speaker connection or blow speaker?
For the check engine light, the first place to look is always at the fuel cap. Is it on straight? Is it snugged down? Does the rubber seal in the cap have cracks in it like ours did? I wiped a little thick grease on the rubber seal on the cap and put it back on and the check engine light went away in a couple of days. Replaced the cap and no more problems.
I also have trouble with my speedometer not working after a few minutes of driving. Have not gotten too many answers on that one either.
In addition to the battery issue, I have another with the front passenger door electrical system. Sometimes all the electrical stuff works fine and other times nothing works, mirror adjustment, switch lights, window, and lock. If any work then they all work. I can drive during the night and watch the lights on the switches turn on and off. It looks like a connector problem but I can't find one that seems to cause the problem.
Any ideas for either of the problems would be greatly appreciated.
I think I would do this, but it depends on your personal level of ability:
The next time low temps are expected overnight, disconnect the battery. If the battery charge stays up then you have a pretty good idea that the battery is OK. If that's the case then I would suspect some system in the vehicle is turning on when the temperature drops down, or some component is being effected by the cold causing a load on the battery. Under these conditions you could verify it by measuring the resistance across the battery cables. It should be quite high. That's going to be very hard to diagnose, since it only occurs during cold weather.
If after the battery colds soaks overnight the charge is low (assuming the charge was good before the cold soak), then the battery is likely weak. You need to keep something in mind, just because a battery is new or has a good warranty, that doesn't mean the battery won't fail. Batteries today are shipped wet, which means that they start aging the day they are filled with electrolyte. If they sit around on a shelf for a long while, they may be already old when you get them.
The battery does not have the power to start the vehicle, but the battery tests just fine. I was thinking that ti could be the alternator, but now the battery will not hold a charge when I have charged it--the volt meter shows as low as 9 volts after charging
The interesting twist to all this is---If I just try to start it normally, it won't start--not enough battery power, the gauges go all the way to far left and the clock on the radio resets to 12:00.
On the other hand, if I quickly just barely turn the the key in the ignition swith to start and release it, somehow the ignition system sems to dig deep for enough battery power to actually get the vehicle started. The gauges all go full left and the clock still resets, but the vehicle starts--something it won't do if I hold the switch in the start position.
I am baffled after reading some of the posts here but am hopeful someone can shed some light on this problem.
I love my trailblazer... even with it's little quirk.
I hope that helps and you figure out what's wrong with yours!
Last week I was coming home from 2 hrs away (family member in hospital)..on the interstate...and the windshield wipers came on by themselves...switch was off and it was NOT raining. This has now happened three times.
This past weekend, I stopped to get gas (another 2 hr trip), turned the engine off..key was out of ignition, I was pumping gas...kept hearing something..the rear A/C was on and blowing! So, in addition to putting over $100.00 worth of gas in my truck last week (16mpg)...I have all these strange things...
Two weeks ago I had to replace the water pump..$400.00. Now, when I start the truck and get ready to take off...it sounds like a jet plane trying to take off. I have people stop and look at me....I guess it sounds like I am getting ready to "speed" off...but I'm not... :mad: What could this be?
Check out all the past threads and you'll find that many of us have had to replace the engine fan clutch. And your right, it sounds like a jet engine.
Good Luck
Texas
.
Is any one else having this - or has anyone found the cure?
But since then, my gas gauge has begun registering incorrectly. After a recent fillup, the gauge dropped to empty, setting off the alarm/light. I tried the battery reset trick, but it didn't change. Any suggestions?
The further I drove on my route home, the more I noticed the flicker - and quickly discerned that there was an issue with my vehicle. As the lights would flicker, my battery guage would pulse or fluctuate. It varied between roughly 11-14... but only fluctuated when the lights would flicker. Immediately I called my dad, who like I - thought it was probably the alternator going out. (Typical symptoms of a faulty alternator.) Luckily I made the trip home safely... but obviously worried because had it broken down in my employer's area of town - YIKES!
So, the next day - I take my truck into a local shop. They replace the alternator - $480 later (gulp), I'm back on the road. Don't notice anything odd for 4 days. Then LAST NIGHT, the pulsing is back. Single girl, no family for 3 states - and having been unemployed for the last year, immediately I peg the worry meter because even I (with my limited knowledge) recognize that it's probably more than an alternator issue at this point... and honestly, I'm stone cold broke.
So again I make it to work with the incredible blinking car - and again call my dad. During my shift, he did a bit of research and found the following...
(I have not confirmed this with a mechanic, nor discussed it with the GM Dealership - but I followed the 30-second idle warm up rule, and drove home after my shift last night with NO issues). Just food for thought... here's what my dad found and compiled into an email by copying EXACTLY what he found in various websites:
1. Let your TB idle for at least 20 seconds before putting it into drive. This drove me nuts, as my TB had done it from the day I purchased it. Every time I took it in for service, the dealer said "cannot duplicate condition", and sent me on my way. They replaced the alternator, cleaned and tightened all the grounds, cleaned and checked the battery connections, etc. I was finally told about the 20 second idle "fix", and it seems to work
2. "Some customers may comment that their instrument panel voltmeter is fluctuating between 12 and 14 volts on their new 2005 model year light duty full size pickup/utility vehicle.
For 2005 model year, light duty full size pickups and utilities, are equipped with a new Regulated Voltage Control (RVC) system, covered in the September 2004 TechLink. The RVC system allows changes to vehicle voltage, up or down, under various scenarios. Battery state of charge and the vehicle’s present electrical needs are only two of numerous conditions taken into account.
This will cause the voltmeter to fluctuate between 12 and 14 volts. By comparison, conventional systems usually maintain a more consistent reading of 14 volts.
This fluctuation with the RVC system is normal system operation and no repairs should be attempted."
3. Bulletin No.: 05-08-42-001
Date: March 07, 2005
Subject: Diagnostic Information on Headlamps Flicker or Momentarily Dim While Driving
Models:2004-2005 Buick Rainier
2002-2005 Chevrolet Trailblazer
2002-2005 GMC Envoy
2003-2004 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.2L Engine (VIN S -- RPO LL8)
A concern regarding headlamps flicker or become dim while driving may be easily mis-diagnosed. It is very important to capture as much information from the customer as possible. Below is a guideline to assist with diagnostics.
Verify the customers specific concern.
• What time of day does this occur (is it light or dark outside) ?
• What driving conditions (vehicle speed, engine speed, throttle position, etc...)?
• What was the outside ambient temperature when the condition occurred?
• What accessories was the driver using when this condition occurred (A/C, heated seats, rear defogger, etc...)?
• If the concern is at dusk, could it be the automatic headlamps changing from DRL to Headlamp mode and possibly back to DRL again?
• Are there any other relevant operating conditions?
Diagnostic Information
• Service Bulletin - 02-06-03-008A - Info - Low Voltage Display on IP Gauge, Lights Dim at Stop Lights, Battery Discharged, No Start, Slow Cranking, Dim Lights at Idle, Low Generator Output (SI Document ID #1540541)
• Service Bulletin - 02-06-03-006B - No Start, No Crank, Battery, Batteries, Generator, Gages, SES, SIR, Brake, Security, Theft, ABS, Hot, DIC Messages, Lamp, Light, Battery and Generator Diagnostic Testing and Cadillac Roadside Service (SI Document ID #1563904)
• Service Information - Exterior Lighting Systems Description and Operation (SI Document ID #826321)
• Service Information - Battery Inspection/Test (Non-HP2) (SI Document ID #653410)
• Service Information - Charging System Test (SI Document ID #1468059)
• Service Information - Inspect for aftermarket devices that could affect the operation of the system. Refer to Checking Aftermarket Accessories in Wiring Systems (SI Document ID #816776)
Important:
• Keep in mind high current draw items may cause a noticeable dimming of lights and a fluctuation in the voltmeter may be noted and is a normal operating characteristic of the vehicle.
• For 2004-2005 TrailBlazer, Envoy, Rainier and Bravada with the LL8 4.2L engine only, the Secondary Air Injection (AIR) pump activation is thought to be the main contributor to this high current draw condition and is a normal operating characteristic of the vehicle. Refer to Secondary Air Injection System Description (SI Document ID #1298539).
For customers whose driving habits tend to run the AIR pump diagnostic test that leads to concerns with the headlight flickering, if the vehicle is allowed to idle for 20 seconds prior to driving, this should allow the passive test to pass and prevent from running the active test that may dim the lights. The passive test should/will usually pass 99 percent of the time, and by allowing the 20 second idle period, it should almost eliminate the active test. Be sure to check for codes and correct related concerns if this condition repeats.
Additional high current draw items are rear window defogger, HVAC blower motor, rear air suspension pump along with other components. For easier diagnostics, it may be possible to control or monitor these components with a scan tool.
It is important to inspect all related connections, grounds and battery terminals for integrity . A loose or corroded connection may exaggerate the concern, and may cause other symptoms. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections (SI Do
I would like to have an idea about it when I take it back in.
Thanks, Linda
And sorry this is so long
Let's keep the discussion here so everyone will benefit.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper