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Older Camry Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • pawleeppawleep Member Posts: 8
    have similar problem with my 96 camry
    however my sunroof, rear defog and a/c will not work at all either
    what could problem be
    i checked all fuses and relays
    paul
    plkatz@yahoo.com
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Paul,

    Can you verify that your taillights do NOT work either, thanks.

    I'm suspecting that your Alt-H 100 Amp fuse is bad. It's up in the engine compartment, inside front left driver side fender wall. May also be an ignition switch, there's two circuits that go thru that switch. One of them is fed by the 100Amp fuse.
  • pawleeppawleep Member Posts: 8
    was 10 amp gauge/backup light fuse
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    I have a 2002 Camry with about 66K miles on it. Its oil is changed faithfully four times a year, mostly at a delaer but at times at my local tire shop. I thought I noticed a few times over the past month that when starting in the garage in the morning, blue smoke coming out the back that lasts for a few seconds? Is this normal? Could I have just never noticed it before. The car is still under my platinum warranty. Ideas?
  • pawleeppawleep Member Posts: 8
    you probably didn't change your fluids (IE: trans, pwr. steering brk., drain and fill on all these plus yearly drain and fill on coolant as well) often enough and possibly cause excessive heat to harden valve seals
    if they will fix it. even though your lack of preventative maintenance probably contributed towards problem then let them fix it
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,147
    If post #108 is in reply to #107, changing those fluids has absolutely nothing to do with a known problem in valve seals in the Toyota. They fail and will get worse. Trying to blame the owner is what Toyota did with their sludging/gel problems.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    you sort of sound like one of those 'Toyota can do no wrong' folks. I have those others fluids changes at 30K intervals. I just had the trany and anti-freeze flushed by the dealer a few months ago. Sadly, I am beginning to find out that Toyota has as many gasket problems as Chrysler.
  • pawleeppawleep Member Posts: 8
    you may be right
    had a 1986 that used to smoke for a while at start up
    owever that one was severly neglected before i bought
    maybe they do use substandard material in their valve seals on some or all models
    sorry for the negative speculation, paul
  • chitra0828chitra0828 Member Posts: 3
    we have an 03 camry Automatic, well maintained and having maybe 40K miles on it. Recently we have observed that when the car first accelerates from slow speeds it makes a low droning sound (drrrrrr).When it reaches higher speeds the droning sound disappears. We took the car for its regular servicing at which point we were told the center didn't exactly know what was causing it but it MIGHT be the intake manifold. We took it to a Midas for a second opinion, and the guy there was not convinced it was the manifold and could not identify what might be causing the sound. Any ideas? have you come across this with other camrys orin your own car and what was the diagnosis? Much thanks for advice.
  • rod20rod20 Member Posts: 14
    i have the same problem,fitted new plugs cleaned up dizzi contacts and rotor ,it has spark,winds but will not start.as stated on another post i cannot hear the fuel pump start and stop like it used to ,so i took it out of the tank and tested it ,it works.so i tested power to it with the key in the on position,its not getting power,all the fues are ok ,but i have not tested the relays does anyone have any ideas.what relay powers the fuel pump,and what cuts the fuel pump off after it has pressurized the system
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Ignition switch turns on 10A gauge, and the primary of the EFI Relay. EFI relay when powered, provides power from the 15A EFI fuse to the Circuit Opening Relay secondary points. That COR relay's primary is controlled by the ECM computer. ECM turns on the COR, the secondary points close providing power to the fuel pump.

    Edit.....actually in looking at the schematics, this might vary depending upon which engine you have, which transmission you have, and whether it is a california vehicle or not. Can you indicate what you have...thanks.
  • rod20rod20 Member Posts: 14
    its a 8 /95 csi camry sedan, 5 speed manual with the 2.2 litre, 4 cyl,vin 6t153sk1009063663.i have located the 2fuses you talk of ,they are ok,i am about to check the efi relay as i have located it by bridging it out to see if the fuel pump fires up,if i do no good there i will go to the cor relay (any idea where the c.o.r relay is located on the car) and bridge it,hopefully we dont have to go to the ecm
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Up behind the glove box.

    The primary (which is controlled by the ECM) are on pin 3&6.
    The secondarys (which when primary solenoid is powered and contact is made) are on pins 1&2, and provides power to the fuel pump.

    Good luck.
  • rod20rod20 Member Posts: 14
    where do i start ,i found the cor relay after a lot of exploring.fairly sure the efi relay is ok ,but not sure about the cor relay, not sure how it works really.i removed the relay and with key on found power on one pole,so with a fused jumper wire set about bridging a few poles to hear the fuel pump run,no luck.the blue / black stripe wire is the wire + that goes to the fuel pump so with the relay out bridged the power wire found with the key on to the blue fuel pump wire,you guess it nothing happened.so i run a wire from the bridged wires to the pump and with the fuel pump running gave the engine a turn, and it started............ all good. so i removed both the bridged wires and replaced the cor relay.the does click when the car is cranking so i tested for power with a test pencil .the pump does receive power while it is being wound but there is no power in the key on position , no power no 2 or 3 second fuel prime and it wont start where do i go from here i,m at a loss
  • rod20rod20 Member Posts: 14
    after just reading your post on the operation of the cor relay, it may well be faulty if it does have a dual purpose so the bridging i did didnt have mutch of an effect
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I'll try to give you an analogy to explain the operation of a relay. The overall purpose of a relay, is to allow a weak trigger (or signal), to control something that requires a lot of power. It also provides isolation between the two circuits.

    There are two pieces to it, the 'primary' side, and the 'secondary' side. The 'primary' side is the trigger, or in an analogy a very small child's finger on a light switch. The child can walk up to a light switch, and flip the switch on. Inside the relay is an electromagnetic coil. When it is energized with electricity, it creates a magnetic field, and that magnetic field pulls down a lever. In this case in the car, the trigger is controlled by the engine computer. The computer powers the primary side of the relay. Putting 13v power onto pins 3&6, will cause the coil to energize, and pull down the lever.

    On the 'secondary' side, when the lever pulls down it pulls two higher amperage contacts together. Those contacts are connected to pins 1&2. When the relay primary is un-energized, you should find infinite resistance between these two pins. When the relay is energized, you should find a short between these two pins.

    So a child walks up to a switch, and with very little pressure is able to turn on a switch and power up anything that is connected to the swtich.

    When a relay fails, it fails in a couple of different ways with different symptoms
    - First problem could be that the primary solenoid wire burns, and it doesn't create a magnetic field anymore. The symptom is that the relay doesn't turn anything on (the childs finger is broke)
    - Second problem is that the secondary relay points burn/fuse together (like they weld together), and the fuel pump never turns off, Doesn't matter what happens on the primary side either on or off, the secondary is always shorted and turned on.
    - Thrid problem is that the secondary relay points burn and deform, and instead of providing a dead short (allowing full power to flow thru the points), it provides a high resistance. This high resistance ends up dropping voltage across the points as there is current flow (V=iR) V-voltage, i-current, R-resistance.
    - Fourth problem that occurs much less often, is that there is a physical bind in the lever moving, causing sporadic operation.

    I re-read your last post. Are you indicating you are getting fuel pump turning on and working when the key is in the 'start' position, but not on in the 'run' position?
  • rovin1rovin1 Member Posts: 3
    hi,i suggest you have it checked out by an ase master technician,be shure to talk to himself not the owner of the business and explain the noise sometimes it can be the flex pipe on the exhaust may develop a slight leakage ,when the vehicle is in drive the pipe moves fort and back ,or it can also cause by an air filter but if it is an air filter causing to the point to make a noise that you is trying to explain this would of cause a service light to come on i do not think is the air filter my best sugession is to let a technician inspect the problem for you if you need to locate a technicial there is this sight iatn.net you can enter you postal code and locate one let us know if this info help you thank you Rovin.
  • mattwolfmattmattwolfmatt Member Posts: 1
    I need to know how much oil can fit in the oil reserve tank on my 99 camry. The engine size is the smaller of the two options (I forget what the options are).

    When I change my own oil the dipstick comes out at a different place each time. The dipstick has to be spun in order to go in all the way, and I am not getting a consistent reading. I've been using 4 qts but don't know how much oil I should be putting in.

    Thanks!
  • rod20rod20 Member Posts: 14
    yes, there appears to be power to the pump when in the start position or while cranking the motor(thats when i tested it)but not in the on positiion,which i think is needed for fuel system prime prior to starting.as stated i did get the motor to run by powering the pump by an alternate power source and just cranking it,something i havent mentioned is the air intake tube between the air box and the engine was split badly and had to be replaced,
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    If your pump turns on when the ignition is in start position, then most likely that relay is good (since it turns the pump on, and off). Your problem must be further 'upstream' of the fuel pump.

    I'd suggest checking to make sure your ignition switch is working. There are two separate circuits that go thru the ignition switch. The first is fed from the 40Amp fuse called AM1, which then goes to one of the circuits in the ignition switch. Make sure that fuse is good. The output of the ignition switch then feeds the 7.5Amp IGN fuse, which then feeds the distributor igniter and ECM. Make sure the 7.5A IGN fuse is good.

    The second circuit is fed from a 30Amp fuse calle AM2. Check to make sure that fuse is good, and you can verify this circuit by turning on the windshield wipers....while the switch is in the 'ignition' (or ON) position. AM2 to the 2nd circuit thru the ignition switch, then to a couple fuses including the 20Amp Wiper fuse, then to the wiper switch and motor.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    It's 4 quarts including the the amount that goes into the filter. This is for the smaller of the 2 engines offered -- the 2.2-liter 4-cylinder.
  • rod20rod20 Member Posts: 14
    just went and checked the fuses you speak of ,the wipers work and both 7.5 amp fuses are ok so i take it the 40 amp ,am1 fuse is ok.,so it appears both ignition circuits are ok.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    With the ignition switch checking out, let's refocus back on the Circuit Opening Relay. Since you have a non Californial manual transmission, that relay has two windings on the primary coil. One winding is energized by the starter circuit (+ on pin 3, - on pin 6) which then connects the secondary points together and turns on the fuel pump (+ on pin 2, fuel pump on pin 1). You have confirmed that piece of the circuit is working.

    Once the ignition switch goes from the 'start' position to the 'ignition' position, control of that COR relay is given to the computer. There is a 2nd primary winding in that relay, which is turned on by the computer. The winding is connected between pin 2 (which has the +voltage on it), and pin 4 (which is connected to the computer). When the computer pulls pin4 to ground, this second winding should hold the relay engaged.

    I'm suspecting that this '2nd' primary winding in your relay is defective. To test this relay, wire it up on the bench in the following manner.
    - permanently connect pin 2 and pin 3 to a 13 volt fused battery.
    - permanently connect your digital voltmeter (DVM) to pin 1, with the other lead of your DVM to battery ground. It should be zero because the relay is not energized.
    - Now temporarily attach a ground wire from the -battery to pin 5. This is the primary coil controlled by the starter circuitry. When you do this, you should hear the relay click and your digital voltmeter (which is still on pin 1 )should now read 13volts. Disconnect the ground wire on pin 5, and the DVM should go back to zero volts. I believe this should check out okay, because of how you said your fuel pump was turning on when in the start position.
    - Now temporarily attach a ground wire from -battery to pin 4. If the relay clicks again and the DVM reads 13v, the relay is good....and is NOT your problem.
    - I suspect however, that the above won't energize the relay. But do one more test. Permanently apply a ground wire to -battery and pin 4. Now temporarily also ground pin # 5, by connecting to -battery. Does the DVM go to 13 and stay there when you disconnect pin5 (while still maintaining the ground on pin4)??

    If this testing confirms that this relay is bad, go buy a replacement.

    If this relay checks out okay, then I believe either your computer is bad, or some sensor that feeds the computer is bad (causing the computer to want to turn off the fuel pump). You'd need to go get a 'hands on' second opinion on this. The relay is turning on via the starter control, and the fuel pump works. When it's supposed to be then turned on and held engaged by the computer, it isn't being turned on.

    Picture of Schematic

    Let me know what your testing finds, and good luck!
  • rod20rod20 Member Posts: 14
    at the wreckers yesterday looking for another air intake tube which i didn,t get looks like i may have to buy a new genuine one($) i bought a 2 nd hand cor relay fitted it up and no difference but i will check the operation of my original regardless just to satisfy us.i like you am leaning towards a sensor of some sort
  • rod20rod20 Member Posts: 14
    pin 5 to batt- gives me 12.4 volts when the relay clicks(battery has only got 12.5 in it)batt- to pin 4 only gives about 110mv when the relay clicks, nothing happes at all in the last test you mention,both relays test the same ,my original and the 2nd hand one i got from the wreckers. are they both faulty?just one thing on the connections pin 2and 3 both go to pos + side of the same battery is that right.are you aware of the sensor locations camshaft sensor and crankshaft sensor,just want to check their connections
  • michaelqmichaelq Member Posts: 2
    I read the post on the other 92 camry and it helped on checking some things. Heres my problem? I have no fire at the 7.5 amp fuse in the fuse box that's suppose to control the fuel injection and ignition or ecm. I have no fire or fuel being turned on. my relays seem to be fine and all other fuse's seem ok. Has anybody got and Idea what powers the 7.5 amp fuse? Thanks for reply.
  • rod20rod20 Member Posts: 14
    read 124 of 130 from memory the 40 amp ,am1 fuse feeds the 7.5 amp fuse you speak of not real sure of its location thou,i think its behind the drivers side fuse box panel .the fuse is not your normal blade type its the sqare looking plastic front type
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    As Rod correctly refferred you to previous post, check AM1 fuse, then it goes to the ignition switch which could be bad, then to the 7.5 gauge fuse. If you have power on the output of AM1, but not on the input of the 7.5 gague fuse, then your ignition switch is bad.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Rod, I just realized my previous instructions for checking the relay were incorrect, I misread a pin number off of the JPG I posted which is blurry when converted to JPG format. I went back to the original doc and there is no pin 5 that is connected electrically to the relay. Any reference to a pin 5, should have been pin 6. See the previous posting with the electrical schematic picture. The bottom right pin number which is a little hard to read is pin6, not pin 5. Sorry for the confusion. I will repost the corrected text here:

    Since you have a non Californial manual transmission, that relay has two windings on the primary coil. One winding is energized by the starter circuit (+ on pin 3, - on pin 6) which then connects the secondary points together and turns on the fuel pump (+ on pin 2, fuel pump on pin 1). You have confirmed that piece of the circuit is working.

    Once the ignition switch goes from the 'start' position to the 'ignition' position, control of that COR relay is given to the computer. There is a 2nd primary winding in that relay, which is turned on by the computer. The winding is connected between pin 2 (which has the +voltage on it), and pin 4 (which is connected to the computer). When the computer pulls pin4 to ground, this second winding should hold the relay engaged.

    I'm suspecting that this '2nd' primary winding in your relay is defective. To test this relay, wire it up on the bench in the following manner.
    - permanently connect pin 2 and pin 3 to a 13 volt fused battery.
    - permanently connect your digital voltmeter (DVM) to pin 1, with the other lead of your DVM to battery ground. It should be zero because the relay is not energized.
    - Now temporarily attach a ground wire from the -battery to pin 5 6. This is the primary coil controlled by the starter circuitry. When you do this, you should hear the relay click and your digital voltmeter (which is still on pin 1 )should now read 13volts. Disconnect the ground wire on pin 5 6, and the DVM should go back to zero volts. I believe this should check out okay, because of how you said your fuel pump was turning on when in the start position.
    - Now temporarily attach a ground wire from -battery to pin 4. If the relay clicks again and the DVM reads 13v, the relay is good....and is NOT your problem.
    - I suspect however, that the above won't energize the relay. But do one more test. Permanently apply a ground wire to -battery and pin 4. Now temporarily also ground pin # 5 6, by connecting to -battery. Does the DVM go to 13 and stay there when you disconnect pin 5 6 (while still maintaining the ground on pin4)??

    If this testing confirms that this relay is bad, go buy a replacement.

    If this relay checks out okay, then I believe either your computer is bad, or some sensor that feeds the computer is bad (causing the computer to want to turn off the fuel pump). You'd need to go get a 'hands on' second opinion on this. The relay is turning on via the starter control, and the fuel pump works. When it's supposed to be then turned on and held engaged by the computer, it isn't being turned on.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Rod,

    Correct, in testing the relay you should have connected both pin 2 and pin 3 to the positive side of the battery. Retest the relay by the last test on previous post. It might be a little confusing, but let me explain what is probably happening within the relay. I don't know for sure that this relay is built this way as I suspect, I would need to open up the relay and do some internal testing to verify.

    The magnetic field created by the solenoid that is required to initially trigger the relay to shut, is significantly larger than the magnetic field required to keep the relay held shut. Relay windings can get warm when the current is going thru the solenoid. The way Toyota is using that relay, it has to be on the whole time you are driving, which can be hours at a time. I'm suspecting that the second primary winding (as shown by the squiggly line from pin 2 to pin 4 on the schematic), is only powerful enough to 'hold' the relay, not powerful enough to 'close and hold' the relay. This would keep heat low on the relay. So what you are testing is to apply power to the start winding (pin 3 to pin 6) which closes the relay, and then the power to the run winding (pin 2 to pin 4) would hold it closed.

    So with + power applied to both pin 2 and 3, permanently -power to pin 4 (the run/hold winding). Now trigger the relay shut with the starter circuit which you knows works, apply -power temporarily to pin 6. If the voltage on pin 1 stays at your 12.5 volts, then the relay is indeed being held closed by the run/hold winding, and your relay is okay. If the voltage on pin 1 went up to 12.5 volts when the relay was triggered with the starter circuit, but drops to 0 volts when pin 6 was released.....then your relay is bad.

    Now having said that, "IF" both of your relays are acting the same way and both show as defective, it would be highly unlikely from a probability perspective that your car would have exactly the same problem as a randomnly picked car out of the junk yard. I would suspect that the relay winding is getting shorted out by the ECM, which is actually causing the problem. If you are able get another replacement, check it PRIOR to putting into the vehicle. If it works correctly, then you put it into your vehicle and it then isn't good anymore, then you know the ECM is burning out the winding.
  • michaelqmichaelq Member Posts: 2
    Thank's kiawah I will try that out. I found the 40 amp fuse and it seems to be ok I will check that out with a new fuse as soon as I can work on the car again next week and will get back to you guys later. Thanks again
  • darkness33darkness33 Member Posts: 1
    I have a problem with my 90 Camry DX. It came with power locks and doors and when I lock the doors they won't unlock you have to unlock them by hand and with the windows they go down and don't go back up. I don't have an owner's manual cause the person didn't have one dunno why but anyways yea that is my problem.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    In regards to the windows, can you verify that they don't go back up with either the driver switches.....or with the individual door switches. All of the windows are failing, when controlled by all of the switches?????

    In regards to the unlock, can you verify that it doesn't unlock with either the driver side button, the passenger side button, or the keyfob.
  • runnrkatez8runnrkatez8 Member Posts: 1
    I've had my camry for quite a while now. It has had almost everything replaced besides the engine. A few weeks ago, it started making a rattling noise only when I am breaking and stopped, or when I reverse the car. It is almost like a "tinging". Does anyone know what this issue could be? I don't have much money and am hoping that I dont' have to take it in and spend tons of money.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Hard to say, with the limited information given.

    The first thing I do (if I can't figure out by just listening), is to first figure out whether the noise is coming from internal to the engine, or external as one of the accessories. It usually has been a pulley or accessory bearing gone bad. To do this, turn off the engine, and remove the accessory belt. Now start the engine again briefly, and see if the noise is still there, or has stopped. Assuming the noise has stopped, which is the majority of the time, turn off the engine.

    Now go and turn each of the pulleys that are normally driven by the accessory belt, and feel for whether it turns smoothly without binding or grinding noises. You can usually easily detect which is bad, and then just go replace that unit, pulley, or tensioner.

    If the noise happens to be internal to the engine, then you have to figure out whether the vehicle is worth it to fix, as you may be looking at big bucks.
  • bryceabrycea Member Posts: 5
    2005 toyota camry how exactly do I remove the seat cushion so I can gain access to the fuel pump
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    To lift up the rear seats.....there are two clips on the seat bottom (towards the front of the seat bottom), one on each side in the middle of the left and right seating positions. You put your hands palms up, and slide your hands under the seat, one hand on each side of the clip. You want to lift as close to the clip as you can (within a couple of inches), or you will bend the seat.
  • bryceabrycea Member Posts: 5
    will try it
  • 97camry97camry Member Posts: 1
    Hello everyone, I've got a problem here with my 97 camry LE. My wife moved the passenger's power seat forward all the way down to the end and now it's jammed. It's a 6-way power seat and the seat can not move back anymore, but the other 4 ways are still working. Any ideas? Thank you.
  • rearwheeldriverearwheeldrive Member Posts: 140
    I just joined in. I see you guys got wire diagrams and know how to check things out .

    I want to keep this simple . From your post I briefly read about the COR relay and bypassing this directly to the fuel pump started the car. I would have to get into the wire diagram too but it seems you found the problem .Later your discussing opening relays and such but that wouldn't be necessary. I would keep throwing relays at it.

    My 1990 Q-45 has a complex electrical fuel system ,most of the parts are in the trunk next to the pump. The relay was bad and I got one like you did out of the junkyard. Of course it didn't work. I went back and exchanged it for a good one I tested before I left the property.

    As a rule of thumb the hot two terminals on an any relay is the two further apart. The terminals grouped together are all the slave circuits or other words transfer or break circuits These two hot terminals will be in control of the relay pulling the contact together in the other circuits or breakeing them at the same time.
  • rearwheeldriverearwheeldrive Member Posts: 140
    I respond to rattling noise too.

    My 92 Camry I bought without driving because it looked well maintained an was at wholesale price. XLE all power, and sun roof too. Anyways the struts would rattle when you drive it I knew it wasn't a big deal cause I rather have something worn out that I could replace than pay more for something thats going to need replacing.

    Your noise sound more superficial. The ting noise is propaly just that, a piece of tin rattling like your exhaust system or water deflector on your breaks, or a heat shield under the body next to the hot exhaust parts.

    To test this, I would put the car in gear, block the tires, and have someone just ever so slightly give it some gas. Try it in reverse, blocking the tires in the other direction. This puts the car under stress an creates many odd noises, listen for the one you normally hear.
  • bigjohn60bigjohn60 Member Posts: 2
    How do you change spark plugs on a 92 2.2L? They're 5/8 plugs, but my socket barely fits into the sleeve and there is a rubber grommet just above the plug that prevents the socket from going over the plug. Do you have to remove the sleeve? If so, how? I took the large nut off the top of the sleeve, but the sleeve didn't budge. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Big John.
  • bigjohn60bigjohn60 Member Posts: 2
    I figured it out.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Did you, that's great! Would you share here in case others run into the same situation? Thanks so much!
  • emilyvemilyv Member Posts: 1
    Hello there,

    I've been reading the posts here and they seem very helpful. My 99 Camry driver's side window is making a weird noise and I'm afraid it's about to die. Any help as to if it is the motor, or the regulator and what to do?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    WIthout being able to either hear the sound, or see the movement....could only guess.

    You could have a motor going bad, gears going bad, the track could be loose causing binding, you could have a bad window switch causing decreased voltage to the motor....could be any number of things.

    You really have to take the inside of the door off to look inside, and watch it's operations. That will allow you to see the movements happening, and hear better and perhaps pinpoint the problem area.
  • rearwheeldriverearwheeldrive Member Posts: 140
    Window noise on camry, I d remove the panel too like the last post.

    I never dome a 99 but the 92 has obvious screws under in the armrest. The trick is to get the panel off without breaking anything.

    The bottom is mostly clips and the sides ,. Its the middle that you have to be careful to find the hidden srews useually under the armrest. Let me go out and look at mine, I had it off a month ago.

    Im back. Oh yea the speaker cover hid one of the screws, its pops off. That srew holds the armrest on tight. I see the mirror cover is preventing the door panel from sliding upward. The panel always needs to slide straight up, while hitting the top of the panel in a up and in motion, striking against the window opening. Its hooked over that part and wont come unhooked unless you force it in tighter against the door frame and up against the window. Dont try to pull the panel away from the door frame at the bottom it only hooks it more. It helps to have the window down too.
  • titantxtitantx Member Posts: 1
    Hi all,

    I've reached 35k miles on my 03 Camry (4 cyl, Manual transmission) and need to take it in for a major 30,000 mile service. I've called several dealerships AND local automotive service shops and the cost is around $400.

    The issue is that each dealership and shop say certain things need to be done - but the list is not identical.

    My biggest concern of those non-identical items brought up are: differential fluid change, power steering flush, throttle body cleaning, fuel injection cleaning.

    Although I'm not a mechanic, I know (and have done) oil changes, air filter change, cabin air filter change and coolant flush. Are these areas sufficient at this point? Or will I need to invest in those other things mentioned?

    Thanks for any and all help. :)
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    All of your "non identical" items are ripoffs, especially at such a low mileage.

    Sounds like you need to consult the Toyota maintenance schedule (included in your owner's manual packet) and copy on a separate sheet of paper only the items that Toyota says should be done for your mileage and type of driving. Please don't be lured by the scare stories of dealers or shops saying you must do this or that when Toyota, who built the car, is silent on the issue. These people are just looking for a quick buck!

    I am assuming that your car otherwise is exhibiting no operational problems, like stalling or hesitation. One big plus for you is your car has a manual transmission, which means you don't ever have to deal with what seems to be the weakest link in today's powertrains -- the automatic transmission.
  • 3kidsinback3kidsinback Member Posts: 74
    Any suggestions on what I should look for or demand if I like the car? I will check the carfax. I would like them to also pull the valve cover and check for sludge.

    Thank you!
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