Older Camry Maintenance and Repair

taz16 · July 2008

2002 Camry SE V6 Fuel

Hello I was wondering if anybody in here owns a Camry V6 between the model years 2002-2006, I was planning on buying one and just needed to know if it's alright to put midgrade 89 fuel inside it??? or will it just slightly decrease its power output?? or will it mess up the engine???

Thanks,

Taz16

210delray · July 2008

The 2002-2006 Camry V6 can run safely even on 87 octane, but 91 or 92 is "recommended" for maximum performance. Check the owner's manual for the exact wording, but the key is you won't harm the engine with 87 (on the assumption the engine is running properly).

rearwheeldrive · July 2008

Wow you have low mileage for a 2003, 30,000 miles

I worked at a dealer and did a bunch of these. We made a lot of money on the service cause its sounds like your getting so much for the so much money. Its good to do all this and keep your car well maintained but a lot could be done by you.I liked working on these cars that had this preventive maintenance done, cause they were well maintained and not as dirty as one that had been leaking for a few years.

I could do the transmission gasket in a half hour with the help of a lift. This would take a lot longer without one. I would be draining the other fluids asI installed the tranny gasket. Your manual transmission fluid should not need service. A manual transmission fluid last longer than an automatic. If I remember correctly the manual doesn't need a gasket to change because there is no filter for the fluid. We just drain the oil like a engine and pumped it back in with a special pump that had gear oil in it. The bolt to remove to refill this gear oil is hard to find.

You sound like your taking good care of your car. I would clean the throttle valve with a safe cleaner and put injection cleaner in the tank to save some money. Of coarse the mechanic will do the same thing too, and charge you more money. Some shops have a kit that hooks up to the fuel rail and cleans the injectors. A can of cleaner is hooked up here, and in about 10 mins its empty. We didnt do this extra step.

The throttle body can easily be gotten to by using a 8mm socket on the air duct. Remove it carefully, because with age they will rip and break although it is rubber. Then I'd open the throttle valve wide open and use a toothbrush to scrub the front and back side of this valve, then wipe carefully with a paper towel. I use alcohol(isopropyl) I have here in my garage, but an Auto Parts store has a safe spray that wont destroy the coating on this valve. Don't use something like carb cleaner spray.

Power steering fluid is a little harder to change and flush. I watched a kid do this on a car at a local oil change place here. I remember him getting a little nervous when I was asking him how the machine he was using flushes all the fluid out and replaces it with new.? He was only putting in a quart as the old fluid was pumped out.

To truly get a good flush, a couple quarts should be flushed through. The old fluid is not completely out when only a quart is pumped out. I guess its a 50% flush. Its not as critical on a preventive flush.

When I change a pump, I pump all the fluid out into a empty can while pumping in new fluid out of a large container. Then when this new fluid fills the drain can again and looks clean, I throw both flushed fluids away. I finish with another couple of quarts of new fluid in the system with the hoses connected back up.

You didnt mention battery post. Some guys just put grease on them and didnt remove the cable. The best way to keep post clean is to remove the cable, clean it, then grease it and reinstall. The positive terminal always corroded before the neg. terminal. Remove the neg first on this type of maintenance and install last to avoid sparks.You cant get zapped. Go ahead and touch each post at the same time. Start jumping to scare your friends.

armygrunt · July 2008

This car is driving me crazy. Its over heating. I am slightly disabled and discouraged. I pulled the thermostat because i thought it was stuck. I can see water still flowing so i am assuming the water pump is working, the fans dont seemed to want to come on, i checked the fuses, and they are good. Today i went out there because i read somewhere that you can pull the caps off the relays and see if they are working well i did with my test light and the fans came on. But the car still wasnt cooling down, temp was rising. Im not a mechanic but a simple parts changer but i know how things are sopposed to work. I cant figure this out. Does anyone have anything else i can check?

Thank you for your time

crvex · July 2008

The air conditioner on my 2004 camry (47k miles) is not blowing cold air anymore. is that normal for car at this age? how can i fix it?
thanks

210delray · July 2008

Not at all normal. My '04 Camry has 53K miles and the a/c is fine. My 10-year-old Nissan Frontier still has working air.

I think you have almost no choice but have a qualified mechanic take a look. You don't have to go to the dealer, since the car is out of warranty. Get recommendations from friends, relatives, or co-workers.

svec7186 · July 2008

rarely when i use the turn signal knob, along with the normal click, click, click, i also get a high pitch digital sound along with the click.

any ideas on whats wrong?

210delray · July 2008

I have no idea what it is, but if rare, I wouldn't worry about it.

kiawah · July 2008

Is the high pitch coming from the flasher unit, or does it sound like it's coming from the radio as interference?

You might just want to buy a new turn signal flasher, they're cheap.

gasaky · July 2008

I rode for 2months. That is not my car. It's a my sister's car. But It's my first car in US. It's a very old car. It ran 12miles. In spite of, engine is very soft and strong. Now I ride chevrolet cobalt 2006. But camry is stronger than cobalt. Of course, they have different horsepower. But feel is different.

rearwheeldrive · July 2008

Your 1993 Camry overheat.

I think you got the water in okay. Well you said you took out the thermostat so it should not overheat unless the pumps got a small leak. Its way over on the left side as your looking at the engine. I think its under those black covers and makes it hard to detect leaks. I usally get on the ground and look up at the belt pullelys, for any corroded water trails. The water usually evaporates before you discover it. When my wife gets home Ill look at ours, it its a V6.

Abused cars with clogged radiators will over heat on freeways but if yours is heating up at idle it sounds like the relay fans. A simple paper clip across the relay connector will make the fan come on, either hot or cold. Remove the relay and then jump the two farthest terminals on the wire bundle side or allthe terminals until the fan comes on. I have a cheap test light I usually jump across the live terminal to the other terminal with a paper clip hooked on the alligator clip end of this tester. A single clip and no tester gets hot in your hand from the current draw.

The relay is always on the outside of car in the engine compartment.

Ill make this topic watched on MySpace page. Let me know how far you get.

rearwheeldrive · July 2008

Looking at water pump for V-6 Camry 1993

Its hard to pick up leak without removing black covers. A short cut to test for this leak is find a shop that does alot of radiator repairs they might have a pressure testor. It takes 2 min to remove the cap and put this tester on. It should hold pressure for at least 15 minutes.

antique_maggie · July 2008

Hey everyone~
I know, I know....I posted a message about purchasing the '95...and yes, I did buy it. I love it so far, but I have a (hopefully) small problem.
I had a '96 neon 5 spd (awww, it was my first stick, such wonderful memories:0) ) and I was told it was supposed to idle either at 1,000rpm or just a hair above that. So I guess I made that into my own rule of thumb since then.
This '95 camry (I just noticed today) seems to idle below that, say around 800 (alright, if you were to look at the tach. it would be right smack between "0" and "1"). When the air runs, it idles higher, which seems to help ease the vibrating I get when it sits at a light with no air on. The arrow bobs up and down slightly as I sit at a light but never fully reaches the "1". It doesn't seem serious, but it's enough to bother me....any idea's and how I might fix it? Is it lack of power from something like the battery or....? Thanks for your help!

kiawah · July 2008

Thats fine.....600, 700, 800 .... 1K or greater when you first start it and it's cold.

mcdawgg · July 2008

Yep, fine 6-800 when warm, no AC.

duane54 · July 2008

Heater fan switch only runs on high, replaced with a used switch but did not help. 2001 camary

kiawah · July 2008

Check the Blower Resistor, it's undoubtedly open.

It's in the plenum near the squirrel cage blower motor. Blower resistor has 2 screws holding it in. Up underneath the dash behind the glove compartment.

duane54 · July 2008

Thank you

toms44 · July 2008

AT, "R", indicator light on instrument panel, of '94 Toyota Camry with 4-cyl eng, does not illuminate when engine/transmission is, "Cold". However, when engine has reached operating temp. and has been driven a few miles, the, "R", position lite illuminates on instrument panel. Any ideas as to fix the problem so the transmission position light will show that the trans. is in reverse when engine is cold? :confuse:

kiawah · July 2008

Probably the bulb, but I'd check the switch since it's easiest to get to.

If lamps don't work, it calls out (in likely order)
- bulb
- combination meter (dash) wiring
- park/neutral switch

If one bulb out of the sequence is the problem, then it calls out:
- bulb
- combo meter wiring

toms44 · July 2008

Thanks Kiawah. I think the problem is a switch, however, you mentioned.. "It is the easiest to get at". The car in question belongs to my uncle living outside the state I reside. He isn't car smart but, a little knowledge will help when explaining to a Service Manager at a Toyota dealership.

camper4 · July 2008

I bought a 2000 Camry XLE V6 a year ago. Two months ago it began smoking on start-up. I've had it checked by the dealer and by an independent shop, both of whom say the engine is badly sludged and will need to be replaced at a cost of $6,000-plus--which is the car's resale value. The factory has refused any assistance. In researching this, it seems that sludging has been a major problem with these cars, and the cost of repairs is extremely high.

I hate the thought of selling this dog to someone else without telling them the score. Should I fix it or sell it for parts, or what?

imidazol97 · July 2008

There was a large sludge discussion for Toyotas on Edmunds, but a few people got it closed saying there was no sludge...

http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.eea225d/5533

You might write the hosts and get it reopened.

Didn't Toyota have a recall about their sludge after a long time saying it was not a problem?

210delray · July 2008

Yes, there was a sludge problem on some Toyotas, including the '00 Camry. But that forum wasn't closed because "a few people" said there was no such thing, It was closed by Edmunds, after the hosts agreed that nothing new was being said, just a lot of mudslinging (sludge slinging?)

Yes there was a recall and it was good for 8 years and unlimited miles if you had some proof of past oil changes.

imidazol97 · July 2008

>both of whom say the engine is badly sludged and will need to be replaced at a cost of $6,000-plus--which is the car's resale value. The factory has refused any assistance. In researching this, it seems that sludging has been a major problem with these cars, and the cost of repairs is extremely high.

Sounds like the request may have been within the 8 years time frame the poster above says they finally allowed in their settlement over sludge at Toyota. I'd keep trying. Another dealer?

imidazol97 · July 2008

>It was closed by Edmunds,

After encouragement to close it from at least one poster

Closed discussion link

"C'mon Steve, make my day! Let's see the glorious words "read only." "

jodi4 · July 2008

RE: 2003 Toyota Camry Sedan - 4 Cyl Automatic

Hi, was wondering if anyone could tell me why my tensioner mounting bolts broke in half. From the looks of the bolts, one must have broke some time ago because it was greasy and somewhat chewed up. The other just happened about a week & a half ago. As I backed partway out of the driveway all a sudden the power steering was gone. I immediately pulled straight back in so I could check to see if I couold figure out what had happen. I saw the drivebelt was missing. Looking underneath the car I saw it hanging down and craweled under to retreive it. As I did so, I alsosaw a "chunk" of metal that looked out of place. I touched it only to have it fall into my hand. After it was towed in for service I was told it was the drivebelt tensioner. To shorten the story, I was also told my "excellent" extended coverage did not cover the part. Estimated job would be about $1250.00. I would just like to know if anyone knows why this would happened. Thank you. dlm

bubba38 · July 2008

water pump seized broke belt engine turned after where are timing marks and what do they line up with

camper4 · July 2008

Rather than replace the engine in my 2000 Camry for $6,000, which two shops have told me to do (and no, there will be no financial help from the factory) I wonder if I stand any chance of fixing the problem by simply flushing the oil with solvent. Two car hobbyists I know tell me that may work; of course, the dealer's service manager tells me I run the risk of clogging the oil pan intake and seizing the engine, and flushing is unlikely to work well anyhow.

Anyone have any experience with flushing sludge?

kiawah · July 2008

If flushing sludge would have worked, Toyota would have used it to repair all of the engine repairs that they covered.

kiawah · July 2008

The second one probably broke, because the first bolt had broken and that is too much pressure for one bolt to hold with a twisting motion. Why the first one broke, who knows. Could be that whoever tightened it originally (or repaired it at some point), overtightened the bolt and broke it off. Could have had some sort of defect in the bolt manufacturing process I guess as well.

That's a very steep charge, to replace a normal defective tensioner. I'm suspecting, that they may be charging a premium, if it will be hard for them to get the remaining bolt stubs out of the engine. Without seeing whats left of the broken bolts and trying to get them out, it's hard to say that the $$'s is reasonable or not.

Call an auto parts store and ask for the cost of the part, and then ask what their charge would be to install the tensioner for you. That would give you an idea of the 'normal' cheap price. Another dealership than where you took it, could also give you a similar competitive quote over the phone. The broken bolts does add a considerable additional labor risk and wildcard....that could vary the real cost considerably.

kiawah · July 2008

Bubba,

Send your email address to me at kiawah@carspace.com

210delray · July 2008

Yes, I take full credit for that statement. What of it?

Edmunds didn't have to do as I wished, but any objective reader of the last several pages of posts will see that there was nothing of substance being discussed, just a lot of sniping. No different from other topics that Edmunds has closed for the same reasons -- pointless argumentation and name calling..

bubba38 · July 2008

sent email appreciate any help

kiawah · July 2008

Hmmmm....didn't get it.

Do you know how to retrieve mail from your edmunds mailbox? bubba38@carspace.com?

Go to "My CarSpace" in the green toolbar upper left.
Then in a grey outlined box off to the right, there is a "Mailbox" tab.

bubba38 · July 2008

yeah i found email here thanks

kiawah · July 2008

Okay...sent you what you need....let me know that you were able to open it okay.

bubba38 · July 2008

didnt come thru yet

kiawah · July 2008

I think I figured out the problem, it's 18 meg. I can't even upload it to my geocities website. Have to think about how I can get this to you.

Edit....I may have found a way. Found a free online disk space, it's uploading to it now, and I think it will send you a link to your bubba38 email address with a link. Should take another 6 minutes to upload.

bubba38 · July 2008

Im at tdc, found mark on cam thanks to mirror, still wont fire, cranked a little, didnt want to flood cyl with fuel

kiawah · July 2008

You should have gotten an email with a link, that when you download will get you a file which has pictures and instructions. Did you get it at bubba38@carspace.com?

There are matchmarks on the new belt to match with the camshaft pulley.

bubba38 · July 2008

still didnt come thru, @ undefined. matchmarks?

kiawah · July 2008

You really need to see the pictures. There is a line on the flat surface of the belt which has to align with one mark, and two marks on the front edge of the belt which has to align with the camshaft pulley marks, and then some checks that have to be done.

You need to get this file somehow.

bubba38 · July 2008

brihh17 only see 1 mark on new belt yahoo

kiawah · July 2008

uploading again, and sending url link to yahoo. Done uploading. Check your yahoo mail.

bubba38 · July 2008

downloading now thanks looks like reading material for days thanks alot

kiawah · July 2008

Since your belt broke, your crankshaft (which turns twice for every piston sparkplug firing), could be 360degrees out of sync. When the piston is at TDC, one time the valves should be closed and the sparkplug firing. After 360 degrees of the crank and the next time the piston is at TDC, the exhaust valve should be closing and the intake valve opening.

There are instructions as to how to make sure you are starting with the crank and camshaft in the proper positions. Then the marks on the belt are used to make sure the camshaft is exactly on the right tooth of the belt.

rearwheeldrive · July 2008

Broken tensioner bolt

Your repair is more expensive than the part.I know junk yards here that have a bunch of these and would charge $10.00 for a tensioner and bolts. A self serve used Auto parts yard or a "you pull'em" yard.

The hard part is geting any broken parts off your car. If your handi you could give it a try. A good Auto Parts will have a stud remover tool or at Sears.

rearwheeldrive · July 2008

De sludge an engine

If its burning oil on start up it could be a problem on the top side of the engine. Some of the oil gets past a seal and flows past the valve while sitting overnight. The valve seals are not hard to get replaced versus an engine overhaul.

De sludging I dont think is gonna stop the burning of oil. I bought a car from auction that had a lot of sludge in the engine. It lasted at least 10 years then the #1 or 2 connecting rod bearing spun . This is from oil starvation I immediately shut the engine off and then replaced it with a new bearing. The engine knocked slightly for awhile but then over time got more quiet and eventually stopped knocking. It ran great for about three more years until I sold it for $800.

I never desludged it.

bubba38 · July 2008

i got it going there is 2 marks on cam one towards the front of car(wrong) one towards top of engine (correct) no marks on new belt matchmarks refer to putting old belt back on. Any secrets to burping the cooling system?

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